Sportsmobile replaces the black styrofoam with soft cushy trim that meets safety requirements while matching the rest of the trim in an interior build.

 

I just assumed when the airbag deployed it would blow the foam out .... Often wondered too though.

Looked at possibly carpeting over them (and will probably try) but there's a lot going on in that pice of foam for angles and holes.

 

It's supposed to be part of the crash protection system, like instead of wearing a foam helmet all the time.

 

Has anyone used jack nuts instead of the rivnut or prebulbed plus nuts?
For example: [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-59126-4-20-Inch-15-Pack/dp/B00NUFMIIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435019403&sr=8-1&keywords=jack+nuts[/ame]
I'm thinking that if I mount most of my internals to sheets of 1/2 or 5/8 ply that are VHB and jack nut mounted to the walls, or ceiling, I won't see extreme normal forces against the jack nuts. While they may not be quite as strong as a plus nut, I'm wondering if folks think the strength is sufficient for counter/cabinet mounting. They sure are easier to install, and don't require special tools.

Youth wants to know...:s:s:s

Stan

 

Has anyone used jack nuts instead of the rivnut or prebulbed plus nuts?
For example: http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group...-Pack/dp/B00NUFMIIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435019403&sr=8-1&keywords=jack+nuts
I'm thinking that if I mount most of my internals to sheets of 1/2 or 5/8 ply that are VHB and jack nut mounted to the walls, or ceiling, I won't see extreme normal forces against the jack nuts. While they may not be quite as strong as a plus nut, I'm wondering if folks think the strength is sufficient for counter/cabinet mounting. They sure are easier to install, and don't require special tools.

Youth wants to know...:s:s:s

Stan

Buy some and try them. They work just like a prebulbed insert. I suspect they would be fine for plywood wall coverings.

I used 1/4" plywood wall coverings in the Sprinter build. The plywood was connected to the walls with 1/8" aluminum pop rivits. The pop rivits worked fine and I would use them again. I did decide that 1/4" plywood was too thick for that purpose so would use 1/8" ply on the next build. But I found Macrolux polycarbonate paneling (used on greenhouses) that should be even better. Will probably use the existing Transit holes with 1/4-20NC prebulbed inserts. Will have to make cardboard templates to locate the hole locations to the panels. The pop rivits were easy because I could drill the plywood and the wall hole at the same time so the holes lined up without any measuring.
I am trying to reduce the weight of the Transit conversion by selecting lighter materials. The Sprinter conversion added about 2100 lbs.

 

For the riv-nuts I bought a kit from Harbor Freight for $20 that includes a tool that works on the pre-bulbed 1/4 20 riv nuts. I found that they wanted to spin in the holes when I tried to use the nut and bolt style of tool. the kit included some aluminum riv-nuts in several sizes that I won't be using for this application. Typical H.F. quality but good enough, I didn't want to spend $80 + for a professional tool.

 

SLOMO:

1. There are two fasteners for each block in the holes. Do not remember how I got them out but it is easy.

2. The 3 orange headliner fasteners can be released by prying straight down.

 

Question about black styrofoam corners.



Old thread but I was thinking of removing the black styrofoam corners as well. Orton, do you happen to know if they serve a function? :s

 

Prebulbed info:

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=215839&postcount=19

 

pre-bulbed inserts source/part#?

I couldn't find any pre-bulbed inserts @ grainger or mcmaster carr.

Where are you guys sourcing these? and are the known by a different name or part#?

Lowes & Menards were hopeless for rivet nuts or pre-bulbed inserts.

thanks
tony

 

Where are you guys sourcing these? and are the known by a different name or part#?

More specifically

http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet-nuts-threaded-inserts/plusnuts.html

 

To re-iterate from my DIY thread (since I do not know how to make a link):

From invoice:
1/4-20 .020 -.280 GRIP RANGE, STEEL ZINC YELLOW, PLUS NUT PRE-BULBED
Product Code: RN2520280PNB from Rivets by Jay-Cee | Rivets In Stock - Rivets & Rivet Tools . Bought tool recommended by Orton from McMaster-Carr mcmaster.com . PN 96349A305 Wrench-Drive Rivet Nut Installation Tool, for 1/4"-20 & 1/4"-28 Thread Size . I know nothing about other installation tools. Taped paint around nut so I would not scratch wall with wrench. Backed with 5/16" SS washer where I could get it in behind for added strength (I think that this is important). Bolt that came with tool worked fine, though I later bought a couple more, including one 1/4" shorter, which was more correct in length for these nuts. Added a little adhesive caulk to each nut before inserting to seal them in better (rust, spin). I put them on tool then compressed them with vice grip to get into holes, which were actually a little small for prebulbed plusnuts. These fit the van holes which are used to fasten the default walls. In the roof rib, the holes 7.5" from the center line are that size, while the ones about 11" further are too small to fit and I had to drill them out. Do not under tighten as they will spin nor over tighten as they will distort (I had both).

 

Thanks!

With respect to pre-bulbed vs non pre-bulbed, do the pre-bulbed versions install easier, with less force? Why would I choose one version over the other?

 

Pre-bulbed install easier since they naturally want to expend the right way (outward not inward). I actually could not find non-pre-bulbed, probably a popularity issue. Squeezing down a pre-bulbed is trivial, though a few times I over did it and make them a bit harder to install than necessary.

 

I'm new to pre-bulbed inserts... Is there a recommended tool for setting them?

Thanks...

 

Simple one is McMaster Carr # 96349A555. You need to state size and if using prebulbed the bolt must be replaced with a longer bolt. Small so very little restriction of where you use it. Large handle tools would restrict where you can use the tool. Works very well.

 

Thanks Guys, will look into Pre-Bulbed inserts, especially if no additional drilling is needed.

 

Actually Orton, I think you're spot on with the D-ring bolts being 7/16. I had to replace a few to build my bed supports and those were a direct replacement. Ford must have boxes of non metric D rings sitting around.
JP

 

I used 7/16-20 NF. I removed the D-rings and am using those threaded holes to bolt in a 1 5/8" thick floor at seven places. Floor should be competed tomorrow.

 

8mm in walls. D-ring bolt holes are probably 11 mm metric but 7/16-20NF bolts work.

 

Thanks! they are M8x1.25 pitch.

What are you guys using for rivnut sizes that can fit inside the 5/16 holes on the ribs of the side panels (where the factory plastic panels attach to).

I found some M8x1.25 rivnuts on Grainger.com (http://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Rivet-Nut-5NNN7)
But they require a 17/32 hole.

I'm used to metric bolts, and all these fractions in inches is causing me to do math .

thanks
Tony