[EddieZ]

MaxxFan customer service

I contacted customer service about my wonky MaxxFan. The CS guy and their engineer think the lifter arms are out of sync -- ie, welded to their common shaft at different angles. They are sending me a replacement part, which, they assure me that I can put in myself. Happy to give it a try.

 

[orton]

I had not seen how anyone else was routing cables, but, I ran mine right through an existing slot in the seat pedestal -- just had to peel back some black tar-paper-like material.

Thank You. Had not noticed the covered slots.

 

[EddieZ]

Plywood floor

I did a simple floor of 1/2 inch marine plywood. I won't go into a lot of detail, since it's not rocket science. I cut from 3 sheets turned sideways, to have 2 seams across the van. It was good to find marine ply for $62 a sheet, as I have paid almost $80 in the past, when it was hard to find in a small "city".

But, no matter how flat it looks in the warehouse, you're sure to find that plywood doesn't lay perfectly flat. That being the case, I decided to bond the wood to the floor in strategic locations, both for flatness, and to kill potential harmonic vibrations.

I also edge glued the sheets together, with wooden spacer-splints to screw into, to keep things lined up. I did not opt to insulate under the plywood, instead preferring to allow air circulation, in case things get wet down there. I haul wet kayaks and gear, so, it is possible. And, I had not read Orton's (I think) mention of caulking around a floor, which should keep it from getting wet below... but, you never know until you find your floor rusted out.

Those wood spacer-splints in the photo... the ridges in the van are just over 3/8 inch deep. I had wanted to use 3/8 plywood cuts for the spacers, but, they were not thick enough, even though I had true 3/8 plywood. So, I had to slice up some 2x4s to get exactly the right thickness.

Speaking of floor thicknesses, how about that OEM vinyl mat with rag felt pad? It's deceptive. You look at the edges that are accessible, and may think you've got 1/2 inch of padding, with 1/8 of vinyl... like you've got a 5/8 inch floor. Of course, that's wrong. The padding is pre-compressed at the factory, to conform to the ridges in the floor. At the tops of the ridges, the compressed padding is just 1/8 inch thick. You really have a floor that stands just 1/4 inch higher than the floor's ridges.

So, I installed a 1/2 inch plywood floor, which means the floor is 1/4 inch higher than it used to be. Well, I put some Lowe's linoleum on there too. Check a few posts down for a photo of the finished floor and finished walls, as I get it written up.

And, below, I want to write about re-using the OEM door steps with a thicker floor.

 

[EddieZ]

Using the OEM doorsteps with a thicker floor

As noted in the post above, a 1/2 inch plywood floor raises the floor height 1/4 inch more than the OEM vinyl, padded floor. So, my plan was to raise the load bearing surfaces of the door steps by 1/4 inch, in order to continue using the steps. In the photo, above, you can see where I've made a 1/4 inch spacer for the rear step-threshold. You'd think that would work. But, you'd be wrong.

The bare rear step area has high-low regions, and, all of them are load bearing, due to the way the plastic tread plate is molded. So, running a simple spacer raises the tread plate too high, and leaves parts unsupported. I had to slice and dice the spacer, and bond the smaller pieces in place with dabs of construction cement. I did not want to do too good of a job gluing the pieces down, as I well may replace the step with an aftermarket manufactured piece, at a later time... and I suspect that a metal tread plate, for example, would simply run flat, and could be adjusted for floor thickness with a simple, one-piece spacer like mine originally was.

The side step is a bit different. Although all surfaces are, again, load bearing over high-low areas, it's pretty easy to cut off 28 or 32 (I forget) plastic circles, to flatten the load bearing surface of the step. I used a Dremel with an abrasive wood-cutting wheel to do that. Then, you can make 3 "simple" spacers, and attach them with dabs of construction cement.

All of my spacers were 1/4 inch. Because I would be adding linoleum, 5/16 inch plywood would have been better. 3/8 was too much.

I figure that by doing the floor, walls and ceiling myself instead of ordering the nice stuff from Inlad, I saved about $1200. I was NOT looking forward to cutting stuff -- especially the floppy 6mm Celtec panels -- with a 7 1/4 inch Skil saw. I put $120 of my saved cash into a new, lightweight Dremel saw, see photo. I have found it to be great for free-hand cutting. Less great for cutting along a straight-edge, because it's so low, a 2x4 is out of the question as a guide.

 

[EddieZ]

Wall panels, and lino floor

The Celtec worked out as I had hoped, for walls. I wanted to get close to an OEM or commercial liner look. I did not want to deal with wood, and finishing. The Celtec will be durable enough for my use, though it can be scratched or marred with thoughtless treatment. Well, so can other materials, to some degree. I'm not too rough on my stuff.

In fact, it's pretty easy to mar in handling, when working with it -- especially working alone. I do have a few blems built into the walls, but, it's not like I even notice them. Most of the layout work and cutting was done on the back sides of the Celtec.

Working with Celtec reminded me of working with balsa wood. Careful with those power tools!

The material is pretty floppy, and my work environment limited. I could not get perfect "machined" edge cuts. So, I made sure the edges that butted near van center were the manufactured edges.

I had purchased 150 of the OEM push-fasteners. I thought I'd have leftovers. But, I see that, by the time I'm done with the ceiling, I'll be short a few fasteners.

I had to drill a few new fastener holes, most of which can be referenced in the left-side photo, below. One at the rearmost part of the lower front panel. One at the upper front corner of the upper rear panel. There is nothing to anchor the paneling to at the front of the front upper panel. For that, I had to use 1 inch aluminum angle, cut to 1-inch pieces, with fastener holes drilled, then attached with VHB tape. I also had to squeeze the aluminum angle in a vice, to tighten up the angles, due to the angled sides of the B-pillar.

The panel edges below the wiring race may appear not to be cut straight. Actually, the wiring race is kind of goofy.

You can see my floor linoleum, here. Got it on sale for $55. It's "fiberglass backed" not glued in, so, if I damage it, or find a material I like better, it will be easy to change.

 

[orton]

I left the rear threshold OEM. My floor starts flush with the inside surface of the rear door frame. That leaves a 3/4" gap between the front edge of the Ford threshold cover and the start of my floor. The floor is 2 1/8" thick at the back edge. 1/2" spacer to get back edge of floor to same height as top of corrugations, a 1/8" layer of loaded vinyl, the 1/2" plywood floor and then the 1 1/2" 80/20 framework bolted on top of the plywood.
The low areas of the floor are filled with 1/2" closed cell foam. I did caulk the plywood floor seams and around the perimeter with flexible caulk. The plywood bolts to the van and the 80/20 bolts to the plywood. No direct Transit metal connection to the aluminum 80/20 framework so I have thermal isolation.
I discarded the slider door step cover. I will make a formed 14 ga. SS cover that covers the step and is bent up 90 degrees to cover the vertical back of step and the edge of the 2 1/8" thick floor. My sink cabinet blocks about half of the slider door opening so I will only need a 22 1/2" long anti slip pad glued to the front portion of the SS step cover. The centrifugal water pump will be located at the very back of the step.
Floor makes van very quiet. I am not concerned about further sound deadening in the walls and ceiling. I will get additional sound deadening from the insulation but that is not a requirement.
I used expanded PVC for my ceiling in the sold Sprinter and it does mar easily and does not have much physical strength. Transit will have 6 mm extruded Macrolux polycarbonate panels (greenhouse panels) which are stiffer and will not mar easily. We will see how they work. Ceiling will be flat. There will be a 1 1/2" spacer between bottom of roof rib on van centerline and the top of the ceiling panel.

I would post pictures and drawings but they are not allowed on this site. (Maybe if I keep complaining the site owners will wake up!)

 

[TNorth]

I've been out of country for a few weeks. Thanks for the ceiling suggestion posted on 6/17, it gives me some good ideas. My ceiling can have various slopes as long as it maximizes living area height. I'll check out your idea with some templates.

I got the mid-roof height so i can still get boats on and off the top of van by myself, any taller and i think putting 4 to 6 canoes on top would be a real production.

I'm even considering installing a section of a raised roof in the living area (sliding door area) that would give me more headroom and be an integrated part of the roof rack base above.

 

[orton]

I've been out of country for a few weeks. Thanks for the ceiling suggestion posted on 6/17, it gives me some good ideas. My ceiling can have various slopes as long as it maximizes living area height. I'll check out your idea with some templates.

I got the mid-roof height so i can still get boats on and off the top of van by myself, any taller and i think putting 4 to 6 canoes on top would be a real production.

I'm even considering installing a section of a raised roof in the living area (sliding door area) that would give me more headroom and be an integrated part of the roof rack base above.

I have a high roof so do not need to be concerned about the height loss due to the added floor thickness or the dropped flat ceiling. One of the problems with the high roof is the roof slopes down from its maximum height above the slider door to the headliner edge behind the seats. It will be easier to transition down from the cargo height to the headliner height if I have a flat ceiling in the cargo area. The Transit medium height was too short for my needs and the high roof is too tall. Sprinter high roof is between the two Ford choices and worked well. The Sprinter roof is the same height from the back doors to the edge of the front headliner.

 

[GROOVY2]

EddieZ -Great Build - Very well done and clean looking - like your vinyl choice -
I am not familiar with Celtec - what are the reasons you decided to use it ?

Also I am not clear on why you installed the wood pieces on rear door threshold -
is it because you removed some padding and you are replacing with wood
for height adjustment at joint ?

Wish this site let people post more pictures -

I am new to van modding and its going to be a few months before I get my van -

Transits are still pretty rare here so I have only been in 2 for a few minutes-

One van had a black wall/ floor liner -
Im guessing the wall liner was made with thin COROPLAST -
and coroplast is what I was thinking about using also - any thoughts on it ?

Great thread -
-
-

 

[EddieZ]

EddieZ -Great Build - Very well done and clean looking - like your vinyl choice -
I am not familiar with Celtec - what are the reasons you decided to use it ?

Also I am not clear on why you installed the wood pieces on rear door threshold -
is it because you removed some padding and you are replacing with wood
for height adjustment at joint ?

Wish this site let people post more pictures -

I am new to van modding and its going to be a few months before I get my van -

Transits are still pretty rare here so I have only been in 2 for a few minutes-

One van had a black wall/ floor liner -
Im guessing the wall liner was made with thin COROPLAST -
and coroplast is what I was thinking about using also - any thoughts on it ?

Great thread -
-
-

Thanks. The Celtec is lightweight, light in color for a brighter interior, has an OEM look, is easy to work - almost too easy - and requires no finishing.

If that was a cargo van that you saw, those darker panels are called the load area protection package, in the options. I understand the material is the same as is used on the sliding door liner, which I do have. Not sure what its called. if I could have gotten it I might have used it in spite of its darkness. it's a lot like the corrugated vinyl products, except that instead of linear corrugations they are more like geometric shapes making up the pockets of air.

The vinyl floor you saw, again in a cargo van, was the one that has recycled felt liner beneath it. I described the mat in some detail a couple of posts up. I took that Mat out when I put in the half inch plywood floor. my floor was one fourth and higher, so I had to put those one-fourth inch wood spacers along the rear threshold so that I could continue using the factory tread plate. for now, anyway. That factory floor is not entirely worthless. but, I needed the plywood floor so that I could attach cabinets and bed. that factory floor is very wavy, lumpy. now that I have an actual flat floor, it's noticeably nicer to walk on.

 

[EddieZ]

Ceiling complete -- finally!

The ceiling was a much bigger challenge than the walls, complicated by having to wait 4x, for assistance in handling/placing/removing/installing the ceiling, as I progressed.

It's installed as one single piece, using the factory holes, along with 8 screws at the edges that go into nut plates that I made, to fit into the crossbar rectangles. All along, I wanted to do one large piece, to avoid having to engineer some way to join and support separate panels, at the ceiling.

I had learned from Hien -- the Thinsulate guy -- that Celtec bonds well with "superglue" type CA. The question was, would it sufficiently edge-bond 6mm Celtec? The answer is: yes, and no. It's true, that IF you have perfect edges, the bond will be stronger than the material itself. The best glue I tried for this was "Bob Smith" BSI MaxiCure. BUT, it's virtually impossible to get perfect edges to work with. None of my tools or setups are precise enough to get perfect, stutter-free, smooth, perpendicular cuts. SO, I figured I'd use the factory cut edges for the joints I needed to make a 1-piece ceiling. BUT, even those edges are not perfect, which becomes more apparent as the joints become longer.

I finally had to resort to putting fiberglass over the joints, on both sides. The fiberglass is wetted with CA glue. The best for glassing is BSI Insta-Cure Super Thin. But, I ran out of Super Thin, and had to use some thicker formulations -- just one of several headaches that resulted in what I consider less-than-perfect visual results of the joints. Ah-well -- it still looks pretty good, for what little time anyone would actually be looking at the joints.

I've included a photo of my custom made nut insert plates, for the rectangles at each end of the ceiling cross-bar supports. They are just held in place by their own structure, and having insulation packed in behind them. They can slide up/down a bit in the rectangle, as needed. I had made the same 9 or 10mm holes as for the push fasteners, so I would have some slop factor. When I went to install the screws, I did have to stick a tiny screwdriver in, and line up a couple of the nuts. The screws that I used are

.

In the photo of the ceiling, you can see my installed LED lights. The one near the back door is to be a reading light, over the head of the bed. The double light near the center is operated by the wall switch at the rear of the sliding door. This switch can be reached while standing outside the van. I placed this "center" light out of the center walking area. It will be partially over a cabinet, eventually. Also, up high and near the back door, I have 2 12v power sockets. They are recessed into one of those ovals in the sheet metal, so, there's support (several push-fasteners, and one sheet metal screw with fender washer, that I added up high, hidden by the ceiling) for both inserting and removing 12v plugs. I will make a shelf over the bed that, among other things, will be a good place to stash electronic devices while they are charging.

There is not currently any support for the ceiling, up there at the cross-bar that is shared with the cabin headliner. It does not seem to be a major need, given that the ceiling arch makes that section pretty rigid. I may attach some supports of angle aluminum to the side of the crossbar, with VHB tape. Or, I may find some 3M Command self-stick attachments that I can modify and attach, both to give the ceiling support, and, possibly, to hold up other stuff, like curtains, or clothes on a hanger, or drying towels... I dunno.

It's worth noting that the ceiling could be assembled out of just three pieces, with fewer joints. But, that would require a nice pattern to work off of, and getting a pattern of the ceiling is not nearly as practical as getting patterns for the walls was. I found it relatively easy to get a pattern for the front, center edge, at the crossbar shared with the headliner. After getting that transferred to the front of a sheet of Celtec, and doing a lot of very careful measurements for hole placement, I was able to do a preliminary install of the main, center section. From there, it was possible to do a few patterns and more measurements for the side extensions. That's how I wound up with 6 pieces and more joints.

 

[Hein]

Celtec panels look really nice. And I like your honest assessment of the material. Good idea to overlap the joints with fiberglass laminated with CA. That's also a quick surfboard repair technique.

I saw a van with the factory cargo panels just yesterday. They look nice but the light grey Celtec results in a much brighter interior look.

 

[EddieZ]

2nd fan installed

I've now got my 2nd fan installed. I was not sure the MaxxFan would be enough for some hot nights. If Maxx is exhausting, I would not get much flow over the bed. If Maxx is doing intake, it would be blowing down on the bed. Not sure which I'll use most, but, wanted a fan to direct at the bed, regardless. Also, I wanted a fan with the option of directing it to the cab area, or, more importantly, to the sliding door. I often sit in the sliding door step well, when I'm exercising my dog -- when she's taking a break from Frisbee catching. Maxx, on intake, would not provide quite enough airflow at the slider, to make enough difference in comfort.

This fan is a Caframo Bora, sold for marine use. Of all of the "dashboard" or "cabin" type fans I could review online, this one seemed to be most likely to hold up, and looks pretty good. It has 2 easy adjustments in its mount bracket, that allow it to be turned in any direction. My mount location provides for that movement, but keeps it as far out of the way as possible.

The mount bracket is another of my custom weld items. It is attached through a single M8 threaded OEM insert. The unique thing, though, is that it is also supported by an 8.5mm pin, through one of the panel attachment holes. That pin is made from the smooth shank of a 3/8 inch bolt, which I filed down ('turned' it in a drill press) to the hole size. Mainly, the pin keeps the bracket at the proper angle for the placement.

I also tapped threads into the 3/16 inch bar, for the 10-24 threads of the machine screws that hold down the Caframo mount. To make sure there was no vibration against the wall panel, I glued a square of felt to the back of the mount, opposite the fan attachment.

I would have preferred to put the hole for the wiring behind the fan, but, because of the way it articulates, and the way the fan stows near the big white adjusting "nut," the wire had to go to the front.

Today, it was over 95 degrees. I did a test sitting in the door step. The Caframo, alone, was not putting out as much air as I wanted. Ah, but, the MaxxFan and the Caframo did pretty well, together. I think the Caframo will be good for my expected uses.

 

[EddieZ]

I finally revisited the sliding door. It was kind of daunting to insulate, with the sealed dust cover, and all the cables, wires and mechanisms taking up some of the space inside. I was encouraged by post by jethaden, which explained that the butyl rubber gasket needed to be sliced with a razor, between the door and dust cover, as the cover was removed.

Adding insulation without interfering with any of the doodads inside was not so bad. So, I was putting the dust cover back on, and I looked up around the slider window, and noticed that there are 13 openings where dust can still get through (and 4 more with transparent stickies over them, to keep dust out). I had to laugh. I know that must be just a cargo van thing.

While I was at it, I made a new door panel out of gray Celtec -- replacing the darker corrugated OEM panel, and matching the rest of the interior.

Insulating the slider was worth doing, as I can tell that the ride is quieter. That makes me wonder how much road noise comes through the front doors.

 

[EddieZ]

Interior rear door handles

I had posted a thread to get ideas for interior rear door handles. In particular, I wanted the handles to reside in the indents that turned out to be provisions for rear window wiper motors.

There are a couple of good pictures and diagrams of the rear doors on that thread, which may be of continuing value. It was noted that Orton had already found a nice handle, which is available on

. He had mounted a single handle vertically on the right-hand door, using existing holes.

I wanted two handles, rather than just one on the right-hand door. When I did my initial camping test, I found I was using the rear doors a lot, and found myself standing on the rear bumper, reaching for the outer or upper edges of the doors, to close them.

So, it all worked out great. I used dabs from a hot glue gun to test the positions of the handles. I wanted them to match -- difficult to eyeball, due to curves, angles and shadows. It turned out there's a limit to how much one can obsess over the positions, as the door insets have a slightly different "vertical" angle... the forward edge of the right-hand handle dips a bit, as compared to the left-hand setup.

Also, I found the area of the lower rear door to be deceptively large -- that is, a good-sized area to be insulated.

HEY, you can see my finger-slot interior door latch in the photo. Is there another type of latch, with a lever or protrusion? I get the impression there is. I'd like to know what it looks like, as I might try to get one, or modify the one I have.

 

[alarmist]

Excellent idea. I was happy to steal it. On the alternative rear release, the wagon has T handle set into the top of the interior door panel. I can't find anything on it in the service manual, other than a mention of the need to remove it prior to taking off the panel. A search of the parts website might be useful.

 

[TheLoxmyth]

Great post and I really dig the pictures!

Thanks.

 

[TNorth]

I had posted a thread to get ideas for interior rear door handles. In particular, I wanted the handles to reside in the indents that turned out to be provisions for rear window wiper motors.

There are a couple of good pictures and diagrams of the rear doors on that thread, which may be of continuing value. It was noted that Orton had already found a nice handle, which is available on Amazon. He had mounted a single handle vertically on the right-hand door, using existing holes.

I wanted two handles, rather than just one on the right-hand door. When I did my initial camping test, I found I was using the rear doors a lot, and found myself standing on the rear bumper, reaching for the outer or upper edges of the doors, to close them.

So, it all worked out great. I used dabs from a hot glue gun to test the positions of the handles. I wanted them to match -- difficult to eyeball, due to curves, angles and shadows. It turned out there's a limit to how much one can obsess over the positions, as the door insets have a slightly different "vertical" angle... the forward edge of the right-hand handle dips a bit, as compared to the left-hand setup.

Also, I found the area of the lower rear door to be deceptively large -- that is, a good-sized area to be insulated.

HEY, you can see my finger-slot interior door latch in the photo. Is there another type of latch, with a lever or protrusion? I get the impression there is. I'd like to know what it looks like, as I might try to get one, or modify the one I have.

My bed platform extends all the way to the back doors. The rounded edge of the platform is only 1/4" from the back doors when they are closed. Unfortunately that means I can't reach the back door finger latch. I don't like not being able to open the back door for an emergency or even just fresh air. I'd love to mount a door handle to open the door in the same area you attached your grab handle. When I took off the door panel it looks like something could be attached to push the finger latch down, but I'd like the handle to function by pulling out or up so I won't accidentally open the door leaning against the handle. Right now I'm thinking of a cable that pulls on a lever attached to the inside of the finger latch, but that's a bit crude. If anyone knows a better option please post.

 

[EddieZ]

Thoughts on rear door latch actuator

My bed platform extends all the way to the back doors. The rounded edge of the platform is only 1/4" from the back doors when they are closed. Unfortunately that means I can't reach the back door finger latch. I don't like not being able to open the back door for an emergency or even just fresh air. I'd love to mount a door handle to open the door in the same area you attached your grab handle. When I took off the door panel it looks like something could be attached to push the finger latch down, but I'd like the handle to function by pulling out or up so I won't accidentally open the door leaning against the handle. Right now I'm thinking of a cable that pulls on a lever attached to the inside of the finger latch, but that's a bit crude. If anyone knows a better option please post.

I like the way you think. Yes, I think it would be possible to devise an alternate actuator for the door latch. This is from memory... The finger-slot has an apron or flashing on the lower-left, that's designed to cover the hole when in resting position. My inclination would be to put a hole in the flashing, then run a stiff push-rod up to the top of the door. In its simplest form, think of it protruding as another door lock stem -- you would push down on it to open the door.

One possible problem would be the durability of the plastic flashing, when used this way. Also note that using cable would likely be more complex, requiring fixed anchor points, and maybe a loop to have pull direction from 8 o'clock on the flashing. OTOH, a very stiff cable in a tube might able to work from directly above, as with the push-rod.

I'm just starting to work on my bed. I considered going all the way to the door, but have decided, instead, to save the 3+ inches of aisle space, and situate the bed closer to the wall, and extending several inches past the slider door opening. Yes, I did consider going against the wall, but having a corner notch for the rear pillar, and extend the head area to the back door, but, then, you get into having to have a custom shaped mattress. I'm planning to use a 4-inch Thermarest luxury base-camp mattress. And, if that proves insufficient, then 2 x 3-inch Thermarests, Velcro'd together.

EDIT: Oh, you're worried about accidentally opening the door. That can't happen if you have the door locked! Thus, something simple, rather than elegantly complex, might work for you.

 

[orton]

I like the way you think. Yes, I think it would be possible to devise an alternate actuator for the door latch. This is from memory... The finger-slot has an apron or flashing on the lower-left, that's designed to cover the hole when in resting position. My inclination would be to put a hole in the flashing, then run a stiff push-rod up to the top of the door. In its simplest form, think of it protruding as another door lock stem -- you would push down on it to open the door.

One possible problem would be the durability of the plastic flashing, when used this way. Also note that using cable would likely be more complex, requiring fixed anchor points, and maybe a loop to have pull direction from 8 o'clock on the flashing. OTOH, a very stiff cable in a tube might able to work from directly above, as with the push-rod.

I'm just starting to work on my bed. I considered going all the way to the door, but have decided, instead, to save the 3+ inches of aisle space, and situate the bed closer to the wall, and extending several inches past the slider door opening. Yes, I did consider going against the wall, but having a corner notch for the rear pillar, and extend the head area to the back door, but, then, you get into having to have a custom shaped mattress. I'm planning to use a 4-inch Thermarest luxury base-camp mattress. And, if that proves insufficient, then 2 x 3-inch Thermarests, Velcro'd together.

EDIT: Oh, you're worried about accidentally opening the door. That can't happen if you have the door locked! Thus, something simple, rather than elegantly complex, might work for you.

I left space between the rear doors and the bed platform so I can carry a Xooter foldable bike between the doors and the bed. Can not have a bike hanging off the back outside for a stealth van.

We use two 2 1/2" thick x 25" x 70" REI self inflating camp pads as a "mattress" for each person. Comfortable. They do slide around too much so will try your Velcro solution. Did try only one of the 2 1/2" thick pads but that was not enough.

Just returned from a 5 night stay in the van for the first time with a temporary across the back bed platform. Bed length is 74" and pad lengths are 70". That creates a 2" x 5" x 27" hole at each end of the bed. On head end a pillow is stuffed in the hole. On the feet end my toes drop down into the hole which makes bed more comfortable.