It's tight under the driver seat, when 2 batteries are installed. You might be able to get a house battery in there with a single OEM battery, but, I don't think anyone has actually done it.

A dual battery install has them both sitting across the width of the battery box. A single install has the one running forward/back. The box itself is adaptable to either config, but, the lid is different.

Even if you could get a battery in there, amp-hour capacity would be dictated by size. It's not big enough for a 105 ah group 31, for example. And, you'd still have to find a place for a controller-charger of one genre or another.

Several of us are using CTEK D250S Dual as our controller-charger. It's pretty simple to connect. I'm no expert, so, can't go into the other options.

Some guys are powering their systems off of the 60 amp terminal(s) on the side of the driver seat pedestal. I guess I did it "wrong," by running cables from the OEM battery, to the CTEK (with fuse on the positive cable).

I built a battery box that sits behind the driver seat, with battery, controller, and some other stuff that goes beyond what you're doing. Well, before I got the battery box set up, the house battery and CTEK unit --and a fuse block to my 12v devices -- were all in, or zip-tied to, a 6-gal milk crate, which was strapped in to the tie-down points of my cargo van, behind the driver seat.

 

I was like you -- wanted to start with the simplest 12v system, which I could build from. I think the battery+CTEK just may be the simplest. With it fixed up in the milk crate, it's certainly the Okie-est. Here's a direct link with photo, in my build thread: http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/...um.com/camper-vans-conversions/10650-project-minimalist-kayak-2.html#post167394

 

Great info! Thanks much @EddieZ!

Bummer that under the seat won't work, that'd be pretty clean. I'll check out the CTEK.

 

I've been giving this a little more thought and what I'm really currently concerned with is running the stereo while parked. I'm wondering if simply adding another starter battery (under seat or not) and a marine battery selector switch would work. Something like this:

http://www.powerwerx.com/batteries-chargers/blue-sea-6007-battery-switch-dual.html

Seems like it would provide a nice option for an emergency start via the second battery if I accidentally drain battery 1. Obviously I'd want both to be charged by the alternator (maybe have to select 1+2 while driving). Anyone have any experience with this?

 

bump, looking to do the same.
marine 1/2/both switch and a deep cycle under the driver's seat. I have the single battery now and a single deep cycle would probably be fine for my limited needs.
Anyone get a deep cycle under the driver seat yet?

 

if U raise the seat up by 1 to 2 inches it opens up more options for batteries that will fit

I raised my seat 1.5 inches using some spacers -
doing this also made the seating position much more comfortable for me -

also there is space under passenger seat by removing the jack and
moving it somewhere else -

 

I was liking this idea until I was playing with it yesterday.
Under the driver seat if I space the seat up, I'd lose the enclosed battery box and hold down and I have a standard wet battery. Not a huge deal but not ideal.
Then I discovered where the heat comes from for the rear passengers, there's a heater core and blower under my passenger seat
I may just go with a battery box in the passenger compartment somewhere for ease of installation and removal. I'm not positive I'm going to keep this van long term and I'm not living out of it or anything.

 

My 8D AGM battery is located just in front of the driver side rear wheel well.

See "House 12 volt system" for pictures:

http://www.ortontransit.info/electric.php

 

I opted to place mine in a wasted space from how my build worked out.

I installed a Xantrex 40 amp charger and a Samlex 1500 watt pure sine inverter in the box as well. Not sure why I don’t have any pictures of them and van is currently in the shop.

2x 6 volt AGM 220 AH are the batteries in question.

 

Where are you all putting your house batteries?
And what type of batteries are you using? .

I have a Vmax AGM battery
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=vtank+max+agm+battery&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Avtank+max+agm+battery[/ame]

It is out back by the drivers side wheel well and in a box

My front starter battery is completely separate from the AGM battery in back of the van
Everything in the rear of the van runs off the AGM battery system
200 watts of solar charges that system
Or a 7 stage smart charger if hooked to shore power

 

I got the new 200Ah LiFeBlue. Has been working great with the direct connection (VSR) to the starter battery. The Transit charging system charges it at about max of 110A (max the battery can handle is 150Ah), unless my 310w Victron MPPT solar gets to it first. It drops to about 70A if I have 700w water heater on at same time. I had a Sterling B2B planned out (even installed an Anderson connector so that I can “plug it in” and bypass the VSR) but I don’t see a need for it. The VSR lets me force it to “on” to jump start from the Lithium. The LiFeBlue has Bluetooth monitoring built-in, just need to download the App, don’t need you own shunt or amp/volt meter. Lithium is located just forward of the passenger rear-wheel well with Kisae 2000w pure-sine inverter above. Connections are made with 2/0 cable through Anderson SB350 connectors, so battery&inverter can be removed and used as a mobile power supply. When battery is removed (or when unplugged and in storage mode at recommended 50% SOC) I use the, what was, intended B2B Anderson plug with a simple wire loop to short out the VSR - this has the effect of re-directing the MPPT to keep the starter battery topped off. Set the profile on the MPPT to AGM, this is optimal for the starter and the Lithium doesn’t seem to care.

 

I realized that I did not answer the originating post. However, you could probably put a smaller Lithium battery in the space under the drivers seat. Would take up much less volume than AGM for same power. Then connect it through a simple VSR and you are done. You can add the jump-start feature with one simple low-voltage SPST switch

 

150AH AGM on side under passenger seat

Lifeline GPL-30HT ($460) 150 AH
VMAX SLR155 ($360) 155 AH
General dimensions are 13.5" long x 7" wide x 12" high

I think one of these hopped up Group 30 batteries will fit* laid on its side under the passenger seat, with room for cables and clearance for the seat latch bar.

*I have to measure, but first glance looked good .... edit - 17" x 15" x 7.5" Yes!

Relocate jack to more practical place - there's two M8 - 1.25 threaded holes aft on the starboard side next to the grounding points that look good for quick tie-down.

 

Relocate jack to more practical place - there's two M8 - 1.25 threaded holes aft on the starboard side next to the grounding points that look good for quick tie-down.

You're probably looking at the OEM jack tie down point for vans that have the rear heater taking up the underpassenger seat space.

 

Here's Lifeline GPL-30HT AGM house battery laying on its side in the passenger seat base, along with the main fuse base and shunt. I made a containment with cover flap using PVC shower pan liner after reading this in the Lifeline technical manual:

When batteries are installed on their sides there is a remote risk that a small quantity of electrolyte will be expelled from the vents during charge. Therefore suitable precautions should be taken to protect the surroundings from exposure to any drops that are expelled."
​

 

Exactly what I have been looking for, easily live with 150amp-hours. Interested on the tie-down method, outstanding install.

 

perchancetodream

Very Clean install -

 

3/8" plywood cut to fit inside bottom of seat base - provides flat surface
1/4" cork underlayment shock absorption (optional, I had it on hand from covering the safety partition)

Oatey flexible PVC shower pan liner, folded and glued into an open box and flap for containment
1/4-20 plus nuts in 3 existing + 1 drilled hole in the seat base
1/4-20 threaded rod & wing nuts

Strong-Tie ST22-R 16-Gauge 22 in. Strap Ties, easy to bend in vice to fit exactly over battery, drilled for threaded rod

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-ST22-R-16-Gauge-22-in-Strap-Tie-ST22-R/100375064
Wood blocks front and back to limit forward / back motion, screwed to plywood outside shower pan box

Battery lift ropes wrapped around handles and zip-tied

Cut holes in the liner at the terminals to attach the main power cable lugs & sensor cables (temperature, voltage)

 

perchancetodream

Thanks for the build info. I'm going the same route. I already had Solar cables and power cables to the Fuse distribution block ran to the Passenger seat. Also will be installing a Sopema Swivel so figuring out future accessibility is a concern. Again, thanks.