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Any idea how much dynamat I should purchase/start out with? I looking to cover ceiling, walls and floor on a 148" med roof cargo. Thanks!
I started with the Dynamat 10465 24" x 48" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener with Xtreme Mega Pack, (Set of 9) via Amazon [ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YLO52S[/ame] . I used it all up and then got more, but I put it on too heavily. I think you could do it all with one kit at more reasonable coverage ratio. Minimum coverage is 30% or so. Nice thing about this kit is that sheets are packaged/shipped flat so that the material is not wrinkled (unlike smaller kits). Also got rubber roller Dynamat 10007 Dyna-Roller Professional Heavy Duty Sound Deadener Installation Tool with Wood Handle (overpriced but functional). This is 148 HR cargo.
 
I can see the benefit of adding weight to the metal panels to dampen out the noise. Does the fibrous material really muffle noise too? I would think it would need to be really thick and also heavy to do anything effective - like that dense heavy mats/blankets that movers use.

Thinsulate does a great job of reducing panel resonance.


Before:



After:
 
The way the hand stops on the panel in the second video is totally different from how he pops it off the first video.

He also doesn't show the inside on the second video and this simple experiment should have been done in one video. One door insulated and one not.

I call total BS on this video.
 
i am guessing this is the same material sb930 used, and it is what i used, except the rubber looks like it may be thicker on what i bought? i did the whole rear floor and wheel wells, it quieted my van way down! http://www.homedepot.com/p/USEAL-US...p/USEAL-USA-Band-6-in-Aluminum-Foil-Self-Adhesive-Repair-Tape-8872AF6/202086180
(yeah i got to wonder about hein and thinsulate, he is not the little guy just trying to make a living that many people here think he is, he sells that stuff across multiple forums and the R value of thinsulate is almost as low as refectix)
 
I have Thinsulate installed and have no relation to Hein. http://moreysintransit.com/how-to-insulate-with-thinsulate/

I did the same experiment and recorded it and found the same results.

But I did it in 2 takes so probably not worth posting as it won't meet your requirements.

If there is some experiment or test you would like me to do let me know. I have no financial motivation for you to buy Thinsulate.
 
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Is there a document that shows the actual R value for Thinsulate? I want to see if the R value is linked to a specific assembly method. Reflectix is a perfect example of a product that has virtually no insulation benefits unless it is installed in a precise manner. BTW I have never seen anyone install Reflectix correctly, most just throw it in as another layer.
 
If you read the Reflectix sales information it is pretty clear how and how not to install it.

Maybe I will qualify for your prize! I installed it in all cases with an air gap. Never as a layer between two other materials. Does it work. Dammed if I know. Have no interest in running any tests.
 
I have Thinsulate installed and have no relation to Hein. http://moreysintransit.com/how-to-insulate-with-thinsulate/

I did the same experiment and recorded it and found the same results.

But I did it in 2 takes so probably not worth posting as it won't meet your requirements.

If there is some experiment or test you would like me to do let me know. I have no financial motivation for you to buy Thinsulate.
Same here. No financial or other relation to Hein.

The panels with Thinsulate are much quieter then that ones without.

I'm in the camp that is not interested in the ultimate sound deadening though. The empty van was already quieter than our Honda Fit or Jeep Wrangler.
 
Thanks for posting the data sheet. The acoustic and thermal properties look really good. I am figuring out my plan for insulating my van and Thinsulate looks like a good option.
 
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1055312O/3m-thinsulate-acoustic-insulation-sm600l-datasheet.pdf
http://www.impact3d.com/3M Thinsulate.pdf

So thermal R value is about 1.25 to 1.46 per centimeter thickness. So an R value of 5 to 6 for the stuff Hein sells. It goes without saying (but said anyway) that this is for uncompressed insulation. Just like fiberglass, it is the air trapped in the fiber that does the work, not the fibers. If you squeeze all the air out of fiberglass, it just becomes a hunk of glass. Loose fill, not jammed in is best.

From a sound deadening standpoint, Thinsulate is very good in mid to high frequency sound bands. Wind noise, rattles, clanks, whistles, voices, etc. These noise bands are the most harsh and annoying. In the video example above, the thinsulate does not attenuate the initial low frequency thump but eliminates the harsh oil canning as the metal springs back.

There is no one magic bullet, other than ear plugs or turning down your hearing aid, for noise reduction. You need to use the right tool to fix what you are trying to improve. Given the reality of large flat metal surfaces in a van, I think mat is a good place to start, but mat alone will not make your van sound like a Lexus. It will just reduce the booming enough so you can hear all the other noises that were masked.
 
I was talking with a sound system installer today and he indicated that Ice and Water Shield (a rubber barrier used for roofing) is an effective and economical material for sound proofing automotive floors. It doesn't work on walls though. I assume that it becomes unstuck.
 
It's not bs. Look- READ some of the other applications... Personally, I did Refectix on the skin of the van, followed by Thinsulate on the Reflectix, and then added Reflectix on the inside wall panels, thus creating an open air barrier between them. That, in addition to the foss covering the wall panels, made a night-and-day difference. But by all means, if you want to spend $3K+ on dynamat, go right ahead.



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