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FYI - Special Tool Needed to Retract Brake Calipers

53K views 10 replies 9 participants last post by  AIRAKULA  
#1 ·
I couldn't find a recent thread on this with correct information, and I had a painful "learning the hard way" experience this weekend changing my brake pads.

I've done DIY brake pads and rotors for a long time, and have always retracted/rewinded brake calipers with a clamp, which has been easy to turn by hand.

On the Transit however, YOU WILL NEVER BE ABLE TO GET THE REAR BRAKE CALIPERS RETRACTED WITHOUT TWO SPECIAL BRAKE CALIPER TOOLS.

They do rent one at AutoZone, however it is RIGHT-HAND (RH) ONLY, which only works on the Drivers side.

You actually must have:
1. A Right-Hand (RH) tool to retract the Driver’s side caliper; AND
2. A Left-Hand (LH) tool to retract the Passenger’s side caliper.

I bought this tool for $22 from Amazon and it worked great (note the LH and RH on the box under the two tools):
For this particular tool, attachment #4 was what I used for the Transit brake calipers. To use the tool, put the large backing (#1 on this kit, stored b/t the tools) on it, then the proper sized attachment (#4) on the end, put into the caliper, screw the nut until the backing plate (#1) is tight against the caliper, and then turn the T-handle the correct direction to retract the caliper. I also used one of the pieces of the jack handle (stored in the outer panel of the front passenger seat in a blue pouch) for extra leverage to turn the T-handle... these calipers are a beast!

Working on a 2016 Ford Transit 350, but I am almost certain this applies to all years/models of Ford Transits.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Cars that use the same calipers for both stopping and as parking brakes have pistons that screw in. This way, pulling the parking brake cable applies the pistons without needing hydraulic pressure. That's why the front pistons don't screw in.

My 20 year old Audi has the screw in pistons.
 
#9 ·
Hi guys. I cannot figure out the right hand laft hand thing you are talking about. Doesn't the caliper just compress like any other caliper - straight in like a piston? Why the need for a rh/lh turning thread?
No, it has to be rotated in. You can tell by all the parts in the kit that many other vehicles work that way nowadays too.
On our Transits one is threaded right hand, the other left.
 
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#7 ·
I bought this tool for $22 from Amazon and it worked great (note the LH and RH on the box under the two tools):
....
A few years ago I changed rotors and pads and borrowed a buddy's caliper kit. About to do wifey's van and I figured for $22 it was not worth borrowing a tool and getting it back to him, so I bought almost that same last last week.
Thx for posting details so I can refresh my mind on the steps!
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#6 ·
Even when you have the tool you have to remember to use the tool. Lol. That was me, trying to turn the passenger rear clockwise for 5 minutes before I remembered. my 2018 caliper pin bolts did not have a damper on either one, nor a long stud/bolt/screw sticking out,
 
#2 ·
Oh and just one other quick lesson learned: the Brake Caliper Bolts are 15mm (front) and 13mm (rear); HOWEVER, the bottom 13mm in the rear needs a deep socket or wrench since it has a screw coming out of the nut. For this same bolt, you also need to hold a square nut in place while turning it or you will be turning all day!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Agreed. I just did my rear brake pads. I used a similar-same kit from Amazon: Amazon.com: 8MILELAKE Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool 24pc Professional Disc Brake Caliper Tool Set: Automotive

I think I used the adapter disc labeled M. The included instruction sheet tells the adapter for many vehicles, but, not the Transit. Just had to test fit to find one that works.

...HOWEVER, the bottom 13mm in the rear needs a deep socket or wrench since it has a screw coming out of the nut. For this same bolt, you also need to hold a square nut in place while turning it or you will be turning all day!
On my 2015, it was the top bolt on the rear calipers, that were odd, with a bulbous "damper" obstructing socket use, and, the manual saying the damper is not to be separated from the bolt. It's curious that your long one was on the bottom, and, that there was no damper. Either the dampers were eliminated on the later years, or, a previous service tech has removed them, and reversed the bolt positions. I'm guessing the damper was supposed to reduce squeal, or something. Pic from manual.

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