[twentythreemx]

got it to fit a little better tonight, dash somewhat in place, still pops out a little more than i'd like... any suggestions on any kind of glue that would be strong enough to hold the clips better into place, but something thats not 100% permanent or thatll never release if I need to take it apart again???

 

[surly Bill]

Hot glue. Or Shoe Goo.

 

[pjtezza]

got it to fit a little better tonight, dash somewhat in place, still pops out a little more than i'd like... any suggestions on any kind of glue that would be strong enough to hold the clips better into place, but something thats not 100% permanent or thatll never release if I need to take it apart again???

I have installed over 20 of these kits with a few different stereo models. It is very unlikely that you need glue. Make sure that your stereo is flat and follow my earlier instructions about the clips. The white ones cause most of the problems.

 

[twentythreemx]

sorry I feel like im annoying at this point.. but you mentioned the bottom left and bottom right.. for me, when i pulled the stock cover out, it left 2 clips still in the dash. are you suggesting to leave those in there, and not use the white clips from metra? (they are white also, so thats why im confused)

also you mentioned the bumps face out. my clips all looked symmetrical.. couldn't notice a bump of any sort on either side, for the white clips or for the metal ones for the top piece!

 

[ratherberiding]

I can’t remember which clips gave me issue, but I did find the ones from metra (which were black in my case) to be less effective. I re-used the original ones and everything snapped in fine.

 

[twentythreemx]

I can’t remember which clips gave me issue, but I did find the ones from metra (which were black in my case) to be less effective. I re-used the original ones and everything snapped in fine.

for the top part i tried replacing a few clips w/ the originals, when trying to get it to pop into place, i it fall off.... and then it happened again lol. so im -2 on factory clips. hopefully i can make the metra ones work, if not those 2 are going to have to get some glue. idk why this things kickin my butt so bad, one thing after another lol

 

[ratherberiding]

Wish I could remember the details but I do recall on the top there’s some projections that don’t have a clip on at all. It sits almost right but not quite, then when you pull it apart to re-seat the bastards fall off inside somewhere. Look carefully at the shapes and the holes they go into it may be more obvious than it sounds. I want to say the ones in the middle don’t use clips but those on the corners do. Certainly the ones at the top of the hump in the middle of the longest edge do not. Hope that helps a bit.

 

[surly Bill]

I forget what the clips are like, but if they are metal clips, can't you just crimp them a little to make them stay on?

 

[pjtezza]

sorry I feel like im annoying at this point.. but you mentioned the bottom left and bottom right.. for me, when i pulled the stock cover out, it left 2 clips still in the dash. are you suggesting to leave those in there, and not use the white clips from metra? (they are white also, so thats why im confused)

Yes

also you mentioned the bumps face out. my clips all looked symmetrical.. couldn't notice a bump of any sort on either side, for the white clips or for the metal ones for the top piece!

The white metra clips are symmetrical. I seem to recall that the metal ones had slight asymmetry and that the bumps go out, but this isn't as critical.

 

[pjtezza]

for the top part i tried replacing a few clips w/ the originals, when trying to get it to pop into place, i it fall off.... and then it happened again lol. so im -2 on factory clips. hopefully i can make the metra ones work, if not those 2 are going to have to get some glue. idk why this things kickin my butt so bad, one thing after another lol

If your top is popping up, you probably don't have your stereo adjusted in the brackets correctly or wires are pushing it up. When the stereo is sitting correctly, the pins on the bracket sides are seated in their respective sockets down to their scabbards. When the stereo is adjusted correctly on the brackets, with the brackets in the correct position, the stereo doesn't need any pressure to stay in position after the install kit face has been installed. I would loosely attach the brackets, get the face on, then tighten the brackets. A ratcheting socket is helpful but not necessary.

 

[w28]

My 2019 van has a standard factory stereo, no bluetooth (just CD/AM/FM), no steering wheel controls and the 4 inch reverse camera in the dash above and forward of the stereo. I’m looking to upgrade to a Pioneer double din head unit. I want to retain the reverse camera without having to have the factory screen hooked up in line (stashed behind the dash somewhere). Do I need an iDataLink Maestro to do this? I’m confused about what that unit actually does… most mentions of it are related to maintaining steering wheel controls, which I don’t have. Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere… I couldn’t find the answer after searching around.

 

[ratherberiding]

My 2019 van has a standard factory stereo, no bluetooth (just CD/AM/FM), no steering wheel controls and the 4 inch reverse camera in the dash above and forward of the stereo. I’m looking to upgrade to a Pioneer double din head unit. I want to retain the reverse camera without having to have the factory screen hooked up in line (stashed behind the dash somewhere). Do I need an iDataLink Maestro to do this? I’m confused about what that unit actually does… most mentions of it are related to maintaining steering wheel controls, which I don’t have. Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere… I couldn’t find the answer after searching around.

When I did mine (same stock start point) it would not work without the factory screen staying as part of the set up even though it was big in the instructions. It’s not visible, there’s room under the back of the dash kit, just tape it up so it can rattle about and forget about it. So no, datalink not required, but you likely do need the axxess wiring interphase. If you go to crutchfield and select the right stock version of transit as your vehicle, pick out your stereo then usually it will spit out the options for hookups. You don’t have to buy there necessarily (although I did for convenience) but it’s a useful tool. It’s really a decent and simple install with the dash kit even for someone like me with limited skills.

 

[w28]

I've had Sun Valley Stereo installing an alarm and a iDatalink Maestro for the past couple of days. It is still in progress, but I thought I'd report in. They are great guys, it seems like an exceedingly complex alarm install in the Transit, and they're still fighting with a little interior light bug as the final step. Transit alarms are not DIY jobs.

But in the interest of passing info - I was initially bummed to lose my backup camera digitization when I had a 4200 NEX installed. After install I lost all of the turn lines and guides.

But today, the Maestro brought all of those guides and lines back, so this is a highly recommended element in my opinion for any stereo upgrade, even if you don't have steering wheel controls. A must have in my book.

Unfortunately, the reason I was after the maestro was to see if I could get a transmission temp gauge on the radio. There are some awesome gauges there, but unfortunately not a tranny temp. The iDatalink folks say "well it must not be on the high speed can bus". Too which I say phooey, you need to do a little more coding and capture it off ODB signaling or whatever because there are probably 5 million ford trucks/vans on the road with the same data and needing a tranny monitor for towing. Anyone with a touchscreen radio would pay the $100 for a Maestro vs a scangauge.

Don't know if the tow package hitch receiver zoom function is there yet, but I'll post some pictures and more details when I have the van back.

I just found this post which suggests that the iDataLink Meastro gives you the guidelines on the reverse camera.

 

[ratherberiding]

I just found this post which suggests that the iDataLink Meastro gives you the guidelines on the reverse camera.

On mine the guides are in the stock camera signal, along with the steering sensor input so they move depending on steering wheel input.

 

[lmelin]

I'm on my second aftermarket head unit in my 2016 with the base radio and 4" in dash screen. First time around I used the cheaper kit which requires you to retain the factory screen hidden under your new install. The factory guidelines were retained. With the new Kenwood DMX 1037 unit I went with the idatalink maestro rr2 and the F02 wiring harness. Factory backup lines are not present if I shut them off in the head unit.

I have a different camera question. Id like to install a front and side mirror cameras. The intended use is that they come on when going slowly (front) or with activation of turn signal (side). I tried testing this in my driveway, without moving the vehicle much, and this did not appear to be working. Is this a feature only available to those vans with Sync systems?

 

[Goatlargon]

When I did mine (same stock start point) it would not work without the factory screen staying as part of the set up even though it was big in the instructions. It’s not visible, there’s room under the back of the dash kit, just tape it up so it can rattle about and forget about it. So no, datalink not required, but you likely do need the axxess wiring interphase. If you go to crutchfield and select the right stock version of transit as your vehicle, pick out your stereo then usually it will spit out the options for hookups. You don’t have to buy there necessarily (although I did for convenience) but it’s a useful tool. It’s really a decent and simple install with the dash kit even for someone like me with limited skills.

Did you have to tie in the reverse light power to activate the camera when you put it in reverse? I got mine to come on when you activate it manually but it doesn't come on when you put it in reverse. I have the same setup.

 

[ratherberiding]

No, I assume that was all within the supplied wiring harness.

 

[w28]

I'm on my second aftermarket head unit in my 2016 with the base radio and 4" in dash screen. First time around I used the cheaper kit which requires you to retain the factory screen hidden under your new install. The factory guidelines were retained. With the new Kenwood DMX 1037 unit I went with the idatalink maestro rr2 and the F02 wiring harness. Factory backup lines are not present if I shut them off in the head unit.

I have a different camera question. Id like to install a front and side mirror cameras. The intended use is that they come on when going slowly (front) or with activation of turn signal (side). I tried testing this in my driveway, without moving the vehicle much, and this did not appear to be working. Is this a feature only available to those vans with Sync systems?

Are the factory backup lines available if you want them (enabled) using the idatalink maestro rr2 and the F02 wiring harness?

 

[asdrew]

They should be. They are a camera function, not part of the display.

 

[Joe Andolina]

Do any of you have the wiring diagram for the 12 pin connector that goes to the 4.2" sync screen?

I am most of the way through my head unit and 3rd brake light camera install. One of the last bits is getting the new head unit to show the camera feed when in reverse. I am pretty sure that signal comes from the 12-pin connector hooked up to the original display. If you have a pinout or connector name it would be much appreciated. Thus far I have not found it online or in the bemm.