What turd. I should have known Ford can't do anything right. But here is some more info for later reading...

https://www.f150forum.com/f70/ecoboost-3-5-l-engine-oil-fuel-dilution-problem-solved-273071/

http://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/31-f150-ecoboost-problems/3353-tsb-14-0014-fuel-oil.html

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...m/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2968146/Ford_EcoBoost_3.5L_oil_study#Post2968146

All my driving is pretty much long haul so I don't have short trips/frequent cold starts, but I don't want to worry.

The choice is easy - I'm going to dump the Ford and go back to making the Sienna work.

 

Anything produced after 2000 should have a very tight motor and minimal oil fuel dilution. See Toyota's million mile 2UZ-FE teardown for instance... It would still pass Toyota's QA today as a brand new engine. My 404,000 mile 2UZ-FE is a great example... I change oil like, whenever, it gets run hard and put up wet and still performs like new.

I would hope in 2015 and newer Ford can employ the same production tolerances... but that's a hope!

 

True, tell that to my 2008 LMM duramax diesel, post 2000 ford 3.5 ecos have had high fuel in oil per UOA,

$50k van vs $10 oil, the choice is easy,

I will dump that oil and err on the side of caution.

 

Cheapest oil = what ever is on sale plus has rebates

Menards, Walmart are good sources of cheap oil with some great rebates.

 

My buddy's 2001 Audi A8 has a factory 10k oil change interval. 16 years and 215K miles and it's still going strong. I'm set in the old ways so I still cringe at the 10K interval. His is the 4.2L non turbo V8 but for my turbo 3.5, I'm going to do 5K changes which is still longer than the 3K changes on my old twin turbo car. I'm also not going to hit 1000 miles before I leave for CO so I'm going to do the breakin oil change at 500miles.

I do use synthetic oil on the turbo cars, even my garden tractor which is nonturbo. I don't use it on my really high mileage cars, >200K or the Subaru which just leak it out. I go with the cheapest synthetic which is supported by that Blackstone Labs report. I think it was Ophus who pointed me to that. I figure oil experts know more about it than I do. If I find WalMart has the cheapest synthetic, I'd buy it.

 

Eiko,
Any car that has a fuel dilution problem either due to engine design or how it is driven should go for shorter oil changes, end of the day the oil is cheap.

I buy my 5 qts for FULL SYN oil for $10 or less after rebates etc. Right now mobil 1 has a 10$ rebate

 

Modern synthetic oil is much better than the dino oil or your youth. 10k miles is not unreasonable at all. However, if you're trying to save $5 by using cheap dino oil, you'd probably better change oil every 5k miles or less. In effect costing you MORE. I stick with Mobil 1, $25 or less for 5qt jugs at Walmart.

Did you know that synthetic oil can be re-used? If you let it sit undisturbed for a very long time, the particles sink to the bottom, and you're left with oil as clear and good as the the new stuff from the store. Not that I'd try it, but it's interesting to know.

There is NO excuse for using conventional oil.

 

Did you know that synthetic oil can be re-used? If you let it sit undisturbed for a very long time, the particles sink to the bottom, and you're left with oil as clear and good as the the new stuff from the store. Not that I'd try it, but it's interesting to know.

Uuuh NO. There is more to it than just clarity, additives are depleted especially the TBN.
Some engines also shear the oil to a lower weight (viscosity).

 

on another transit forum it has been reported that for the first oil change the oil change light comes on between 4400 miles and 5525 miles. it was said that the computer can track severe duty and turns the oil change light on when it thinks it is appropriate.

 

The computer does take into account several things- I've read air temp/oil temp/fuel useage etc.
My first oil change light came on at 7302 miles of fairly severe duty much of it towing a 3500 lb travel trailer. I think I'd already changed it twice by then, first time about 600 miles and second time a little over 5000. I deliberately did not rest the light as I wanted to see what it "said".

 

Our local dealer said to tell the Service Dept. that you want "the works". It's a Ford Corp. rebate program that you're supposed to get synthetic oil change, tire rotation and fluid top-off for $39.95 + any additional quarts of oil over 5 quarts.

 

10k is when the change oil message appears. OP: Anyone averaging the cost of a dealer oil change needs to factor in the occasional blown motor from an eejit tech mistake which is invariably the consumer's responsibility to pay for.

 

10,000 Miles???? WoW!!! I dont think that is healthy for an engine to wait that long.

How many miles between oil and filter changes are all of you following?

 

I only use Mobil 1 full Synthetic oil and for now I use the Ford Motorcraft oil filter I change with the oil.
BTW, I have over 7,000 miles since my last oil change and I have not seen any
oil service lights come on. I would expect to see some indicator by now.

 

An important note for the diesel owners>

Mobil 1 does NOT meet Ford specs for diesel motor oil!


Ford recently upgraded their testing standards and there are many of the current diesel oils, including some of the most popular ones, that no longer pass.

 

OMG, you use Wal-Mart oil?

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

 

You really buy motorcraft oil which is just rebranded oil?

I buy walmart Supertech full synthetic - it's around $20 for 5 quarts. I buy then several at a time since it goes in a lot of my vehicles. The filters are like $5. Me not screwing up the job is free.

 

My first oil change will cost me between $30 and $40 in materials.

For my 3.5L, If you go with Ford's Recommended oil Motocraft SAE 5-30 full synthetic oil. Cost per quart is around $6.00/quart.
That's $36 for oil alone.
Depending on what filter you purchase, that is another $5 to $12.00

(The filter and oil I purchased for my 350HD cost me just under $40.00

Makes me wonder what quality oil and oil filter you get for under $30.00
- Perhaps the dealers give you a break for oil if they are purchasing 50 gallon oil drums, cost for synthetic oil can drop to $2.00 per quart.

 

Good points.

My knowledge was based off my 2000 F250 7.3 powerstroke. It was more like a powerturd. hated that truck.

From what I can tell just from quick internet searching, GDI motors only need up to 2800 psi -
all diesels I have read about are above 20,000 psi

(http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/en...engines-drivetrain/1505-direct-gasoline-injection-is-here-time-to-get-familiar/)

The modern motors may indeed use something different - looks like the 3.2 has Direct injection, high pressure common rail (26,100 psi), Piezo electric injectors. The Piezo part is just to control the injector though, not controlling pressure. In a quick google search I was not able to determine if Ford moved away from HEUI systems in the 3.2 diesel or not...

So maybe they no longer use a high pressure oil injection system. Then ya - they have more oil to carry heat away and to handle more particulate load. I am corrected!

 

The modern motors may indeed use something different - looks like the 3.2 has Direct injection, high pressure common rail (26,100 psi), Piezo electric injectors. The Piezo part is just to control the injector though, not controlling pressure. In a quick google search I was not able to determine if Ford moved away from HEUI systems in the 3.2 diesel or not...

So maybe they no longer use a high pressure oil injection system. Then ya - they have more oil to carry heat away and to handle more particulate load. I am corrected!

3.2L >The high pressure fuel pump that feeds the piezo injectors is gear driven off the camshaft.
There, of course, is a low pressure lift pump in the fuel tank to feed the engine mounted high pressure pump.

 

Thanks, I'm not clueless on engines (apparently only gas engines) but just assumed the diesel high pressure injectors were electric.

The gasoline direct injection engines don't use oil pressure to run their injectors which are running I think like 2 or 3 times higher pressures.

 

It's mainly to power the fuel injectors. A low pressure oil pump feeds oil into a second oil resevoir, which then feed the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) Fuel pressure is created in the fuel injector using an intensifier piston powered by the high pressure oil to create the 21,000 psi to injector the fuel into the cylinder

all the plumbing and extra reservoirs = more oil needed for diesels (with that type of fuel delivery)

 

Was that in the older diesels?
I have to check but I think my high pressure fuel pump in my 08 duramax diesel is electric.

 

diesels seem to burn a lot of oil, i got a bunch of midsized caterpillar generator sets at work, when they were a year old, (and later a year after rebuilds) they burn a gallon of oil a day each.

 

Deisels take a lot of oil because some use the oil as hydraulic fluid for injector pumps. It goes through a high pressure oil pump which feeds high pressure oil to the injectors. At least that's how it was on the old Ford 7.3 and I assume still is the main tech. The old school mechanical pumps (off the crank, like the old Ford IDI engines) make a lot less power, and are a lot more reliable.

I also laughed at my buddy last week. He sent me a text explaining how livid he was that the dealership couldn't get his drain pan plug off, and said the last people tightened it too much. They were the last people who changed the oil... And I've told this friend time and time again to change his own oil it only takes 15 minutes if that. I said he should chill out, he has no one to blame but himself for taking it to them.

All that said, i would guess 90% of oil changes go just fine at the dealership.

 

The gotcha I see a lot is the fine print of 5 qts of oil.
I think the ecoboost takes 6?
I know my diesel takes 12.
Often their additional per quart charges are outrageous.

I ALWAYS do my own oil changes....not about to let the dealer touch it if I can help it.


re: using the same dealer so they can't point fingers- we had a good laugh at work one day- one of the guys always took his company truck to Firestone- the same one. Every time.
So when in for an oil change the Firestone guys go off about "the idiots that changed his oil last" because they never put the fill cap back on. It, of course, was THEM.

 

I think the ecoboost takes 6?

5.9 qts if you want to be nit picky. The 3.7 is 6 qts. So either way they'll get you on the added charges.

Off-topic: Why do diesels take so much oil?

 

Beware the bait and switch. Dealerships are shamelessly predatory.

"while we were changing your oil we noticed (blank), and you should have that taken care of before you drive another mile!"

"also, we strongly recommend that you have paint protection and undercoating installed at our service center, or your vehicle may spontaneously explode, trapping your family inside and they will burn to death. Slowly. While you watch and can do nothing. Can I schedule you to have this installed?"

Also, my Mom went to dealership to have the oil changed in her X5. USED to. They stripped the plug threads on the pan, denied it, and wanted to sell her a new pan for over $1000. I read someone else here had the same experience.

If you are not able or willing to change your own oil, you're almost better off to take it to someplace like Jiffy Lube than a dealership. Just make sure they use the correct oil.

 

i got a coupon just the other day from one of the local ford dealers, (not the one i bought the transit from) the coupon says "the works" for 39 dollars. (oil change, tire rotation, battery test, ect.)

 

$29 and screwing it up is totally free

 

This, choose your dealership carefully and stick to it, if they mess anything up, they can't point fingers

 

The reason I am asking is that I just tried to find out about the cost on two different dealers websites and the sites guided me to schedule and appointment for the oil change, so I went ahead and went through the motions of scheduling a oil change for my Transit, but I never got to a point where I could see the cost of what I was about to commit too.

The absence of info made me wonder; how expensive can an oil change be that a website will not convey the pricing info prior to committing to an appointment?

We are about to embark on a long trip with a brand new Wagon (delayed delivery because of recall etc.) and I am anticipating an oil change at a dealer I select at the mid point of the journey.

Thank you.

 

I think I received a service coupon for $29 oil change. go on ford dealership near you and see their service special,
if you find a good deal have your local dealer match it.

 

i got a coupon just the other day from one of the local ford dealers, (not the one i bought the transit from) the coupon says "the works" for 39 dollars. (oil change, tire rotation, battery test, ect.)

Thank you both for the helpful information.

I was able to find info at:

http://fordservicespecials.com

and

https://owner.ford.com/maintenance/service-coupons-and-offers.html