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Transit Rear Brakes: Axle Removal?

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#81 ·
I suppose the hub bolts were so tight because of the extra 90, which probably brought them close to 80ftlbs. Since these are single use bolts (stretch bolts?) going that much tighter than the listed 22ftlbs makes sense in hindsight.

I don't think I mentioned that the brake pad cage is held on by short bolts (the 13mm head ones) into a long stud. The bolts do NOT go all the way to the other side of the cage, just into the stud, which is why you have to hold the square part of the stud near the bolt head with a wrench when removing the bolt (other wise it can spin). On my 2015 there was a vibration damper or something on the top pad cage bolt, and there was no bolt head to place a socket on, you need an open end 13mm wrench.

The axle slid out nice and easy after a few bangs with a hammer on the back of the rotor, I lost very little fluid, maybe 4oz total, so I'm not going to worry about topping off the differential asap. I might wait until Spring or 50k and do a total fluid change.
 
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#82 · (Edited)
surly Bill said:
I suppose the hub bolts were so tight because of the extra 90, which probably brought them close to 80ftlbs. Since these are single use bolts (stretch bolts?) going that much tighter than the listed 22ftlbs makes sense in hindsight.
Click to expand...
Sorry you missed the discussion a few weeks ago: https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/962620-post32.html

Regarding your 'Borg cube', see posts 14 and 15 in the same thread: https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/30818-brake-calipers-2.html
 
#83 ·
Eiko said:
Sorry you missed the discussion a few weeks ago: https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/962620-post32.html

Regarding your 'Borg cube', see posts 14 and 15 in the same thread: https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/30818-brake-calipers-2.html
Click to expand...
Yeah, I missed the second link. I'll get that caliper tool set for the next time! That would be $25 well spent. I wasted $12 on the Borg Cube, which was the opposite of awe inspiring. Being able to compress and turn with a single tool is a game changer.
 
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#84 ·
Never had to use any type of tool other than C-clamp to retract Pistons in cars Vans or MCs. But, did order the kit from Eight Mile Lake. Threw in a set of caliper hangers so that I would get the free shipping. Probably should have had those caliper hangers long time ago. Amazon now has free shipping for the holiday season.
 
#85 ·
scase said:
Never had to use any type of tool other than C-clamp to retract Pistons in cars Vans or MCs. But, did order the kit from Eight Mile Lake. Threw in a set of caliper hangers so that I would get the free shipping. Probably should have had those caliper hangers long time ago. Amazon now has free shipping for the holiday season.
Click to expand...
Well for some odd reason the rear calipers on the Transit do require a Left and Right hand threaded tool with a spanner
type attachment to compress the piston. The piston also have to be compressed and aligned to the markings on the piston housing or the pads will not fit.
 
#86 ·
lolwisper4321 said:
Well for some odd reason the rear calipers on the Transit do require a Left and Right hand threaded tool with a spanner type attachment to compress the piston.
Click to expand...
It's cars that use the piston for the main braking via hydraulics and use the same piston for the e-brake using the cable that need the piston twisted while being pushed back in.
 
#87 ·
lolwisper4321 said:
Well for some odd reason the rear calipers on the Transit do require a Left and Right hand threaded tool with a spanner
type attachment to compress the piston. The piston also have to be compressed and aligned to the markings on the piston housing or the pads will not fit.
Click to expand...
--- Why I bought the kit.

For almost five decades I never knew what that Borg cubes` purpose was. Or how it worked. Do now.

Have watched a handful of YouTube videos over the last 3 or 4 months on how to change t 150 brake pads. How to get the axles out. Etc.
One of the videos showed how to retract the Pistons on the rear on a right-hand side Drive Transit. Ace used a pair of channel locks turning the piston as he worked it in to the bore with a C-clamp. Couldn't believe it. Though I did learn about the pin on the back of the one brake pad that has to line up with the slot in the piston.
Will check for any more of his Hi-Tech vids.
 
#88 ·
scase said:
--- Why I bought the kit.

For almost five decades I never knew what that Borg cubes` purpose was. Or how it worked. Do now.

Have watched a handful of YouTube videos over the last 3 or 4 months on how to change t 150 brake pads. How to get the axles out. Etc.
One of the videos showed how to retract the Pistons on the rear on a right-hand side Drive Transit. Ace used a pair of channel locks turning the piston as he worked it in to the bore with a C-clamp. Couldn't believe it. Though I did learn about the pin on the back of the one brake pad that has to line up with the slot in the piston.
Will check for any more of his Hi-Tech vids.
Click to expand...
The videos are just to jump start your knowledge base. You still need the service manual and tools to do the job correctly.
Even with all that knowledge I still had questions that were answered on this invaluable forum.
Lastly, I learned all I ever what to know about doing a brake job on a Ford Transit by actually doing all four wheels changing the the rotor and pads.

Please do not follow those videos verbatim! READ THE MANUAL AS WELL!
 
#90 ·
I'm at 17,000 miles and my rear brakes are shot. Never had to do brakes this early. Just ordered the factory rear rotors but will try the wagner sd(severe duty) brake pads.
Has anyone used these pads? I also bought the wagner oe equivalant. Not sure which ones to install. I am empty 95% of the time.
 
#93 ·
Alarmist: It's a 2017 built late 16'. The last 3000 miles have been mainly freeway road trips. To Tahoe, Reno and Once to Chico fully loaded with supplies to the fire victims. Pretty flat and coasting.
The dealership said that having bigger tires dont help it but they said they do eat up rear brakes. The funny thing is service adviser was like "it's too early for brakes" after the tech checked it over, she was "it's going to be over $1,100". I can do the brakes myself. No biggie, just somewhat surprised.
Would turning off traction control help any? I've heard about this but not sure.
 
#94 ·
I have 25K mostly easy highway miles with 5K miles of heavy towing. My front and rear pads are still fat with about 3/8" remaining. Turning off TC shouldn't help much. Unless you're driving like Schumacher and TC is always engaging. If Trailer Sway or Side Wind Mitigation systems are always engaging, those might contribute but I can't imagine where those are always engaging unless something is wrong.

I remember someone here was happy with the Wagner SDs.
 
#95 ·
I wonder if driving empty might wear them out faster? Why? Because of the rear bias in the system designed to prevent submarining when you put on the brakes. Without weight in the back, the rears have to work harder to keep the nose from dipping when you put on the brakes. Although, I don't know if there's a sensor for how much the front dips, or if the brakes are just at a set ratio regarding pressure.

I have no opinion, I'm just musing about reasons.

I got about 45k on rears, my Sprinter and Tacomas would go well over 100k before needing brakes. My fronts still look fine at 49k. The new drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads are doing great.
 
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#96 ·
I put in the Wagner severe duty pads 60k miles ago and they still look new. I think either Ford effed up the pad selection for the rear brakes or the Australian bracket installer never got the memo. Less than 50K out of rear pads is just wrong. It could be I'm biased though. <groan>
 
#97 ·
Just updating the rear brake issues. There is no issue. Took the wheel off and checked the rotors. At first glance there looks like there is something going on. Slight grooves are forming. I Looked at the pads and they look like they indeed need replacing until i took the caliper apart. Rear pads are about 1/4" thick. Could be slightly less but not at 2mm which I believe i was told.
Take a look at the pictures and see for yourself. Brackets are correct but one thing these pads due is throw off alot of dust. You can see by the picture how filthy it is. Caliper should be aluminum in color. I have black steelies so it's not as noticeable. These pads make the silver wheels look dirty. Don't trust the dealer.
 

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#99 ·
That's about the same condition my rears were in when the dealership dis-service center announced I had less than 1mm left on the pads (trying to get me to pay them hundreds of dollars for a brake job).
 
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