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Brake calipers

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#21 ·
My van wasn't affected by the backward caliper thing, it was built after that.

When I was around here a few years ago, I recall some guys having their rear brakes tank a lot sooner than mine did and Ford replaced them...I couldn't recall the details, hence my inquiry.

I made a couple phone calls and found out the deal...the brakes are warrantied for one year or 18K. I would have "gotten lucky" if I'd kept an eye on them.
 
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#22 · (Edited)
Byron the Painter said:
the brakes are warrantied for one year or 18K.
Click to expand...
When you say "brakes are warrantied", did that mean the pads or the calipers?

Brake pads should have a replacement warranty for defects. Don't know if wear after a year would be a 'defect' vs them telling you 'you shouldn't brake so hard'.

The majority of the cost of changing out pads and rotors is labor. The parts are relatively cheap in comparison. So you didn't lose much money even if you would have been quick enough for the warranty.
 
#23 ·
Byron the Painter said:
My van wasn't affected by the backward caliper thing, it was built after that.

When I was around here a few years ago, I recall some guys having their rear brakes tank a lot sooner than mine did and Ford replaced them...I couldn't recall the details, hence my inquiry.

I made a couple phone calls and found out the deal...the brakes are warrantied for one year or 18K. I would have "gotten lucky" if I'd kept an eye on them.
Click to expand...
Something along the lines of, if the brackets were upside down and the pads were wearing prematurely AND unevenly, and vehicles was still under warranty some folks got free pads out of the whole thing. This most likely is not a thing anymore (getting free pads)
 
#24 ·
I tried to find the thread overing the caliper recall details.

Anyone have the link by chance,

I am replacing all of my pads and rotors next week with Power Stop Z36 kit and wanted to inspect for the reversed calipers.
 
#25 ·
#27 ·
After the ford dealer gave me a $1100 quote for rear rotor and pad replacement I installed the PowerStop Z36. But....I requested they check for the reversed bracket...they said they were not reversed....lazy me didn't verify their findings. Short story long...after taking everything apart, I think to myself...better check those brackets. Argggg, they were reversed....probably could have got brakes covered from ford had it not been taken apart. So....check those brackets before you take everything apart...you might save some coin. Also, the PowerStop rotors and pads are sweeeet! The pads MUST be seated correctly to work well....follow the directions and enjoy.
 
#29 ·
I know it’s been said before, but the rear brake job is not hard and taking the axles out is easy-peazy and only adds a few minutes to the task.
0. Watch a couple youtubes of the brake job process.
1. Make sure you have the proper rotary tool to twist in the pistons (Dont use that stupid block they sell at the parts store) most parts stores rent the proper one for free or you can buy at HF for about 60 bucks.
2. Check the brackets...ford may be on the hook for the job.
3. Swith #2 up to the #1 spot to save time...
4. Even if the brackets are switched, you may want to still do the brakes yourself...don’t think I want the ass-hats at the dealership touching my critical survival parts again.
5. In an hour-thirty...drink a cold one and pat yourself on the back for a job well done....(lord know no one else will...lol)
 
#30 · (Edited)
I am reading up and buying tools before installing my new Power Stop Z36 kit for all wheels. $312.00 for the kit.

I have read these sections multiple times and the bolt/nut torque spec's do not make sense.

Front and Rear Caliper anchor bolts torque to 203 ftlb? Seems way to high when the lug nuts are set to 148 ftlb.

Front Caliper/pad assembly bolts, the ones with the rubber boot 44 ftlb
Rear Caliper/pad assembly nuts, the ones with the rubber boot 23 ftlb

These bolts are the confusing torque spec's

Front 5 TORX bolts 46 ftlb?
Front 5 Bolt that hold the hub on to the Rotor 46 ftlb? or 22 ftlb?

Rear 5 Bolts that hold the Rotor and Hub together 46 ftlb or 22 ftlbs?

22 ftlb seems to low for any type of Rotor/Brake/Hub mounting hardware.

How can you even get a 25 inch torque wrench on the Caliper anchor bolts and press 203 ftlbs while on your back? LoL

Have had to buy an extended length T50 Torx bit for the front Rotor removal. $9.00
Also a set of Brake caliper piston compression discs and related tools. $22.00
25 inch 1/2 drive breaker bar. $22.00
Portable 1/2 inch Drive Impact tool with up to 300ftlb power. Still looking but should be around $250-300.
 

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#31 · (Edited)
D**n!! I have the reversed Calipers brackets as shown in the attached pictures. The picture got rotated 90 degrees but that is actually the TOP side of the caliper.

Since I am replacing all of my rear Brake parts, Rotors, Pads, Clips, rubber boot, are there any other parts I need to correct the reversed Caliper issue.

I have to remove the Caliper and Pads anyway so I guess it should be easy to correct this issue.
Also, look at how badly the Rotors are worn at 60,000 miles.
 

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#32 · (Edited)
lolwisper4321 said:
Front and Rear Caliper anchor bolts torque to 203 ftlb? Seems way to high when the lug nuts are set to 148 ftlb.

Front Caliper/pad assembly bolts, the ones with the rubber boot 44 ftlb

These bolts are the confusing torque spec's

Front 5 TORX bolts 46 ftlb?
Front 5 Bolt that hold the hub on to the Rotor 46 ftlb? or 22 ftlb?

Rear 5 Bolts that hold the Rotor and Hub together 46 ftlb or 22 ftlbs?

22 ftlb seems to low for any type of Rotor/Brake/Hub mounting hardware.

Still looking but should be around $250-300.
Click to expand...
I didn't check all your torque values but those above are the same as in my 2017 CD FSM. So I'm assuming they're correct.

22ft-lbs sounds low because it is. It's a torque-to-yield bolt and you missed half of the tightening procedure. Good thing you asked. TTY is a much more accurate method of tightening for critical fasteners and the reason you cannot reuse those bolts.

Step 1. Torque to 22 ft-lbs.
Step 2. Turn an additional 90 degrees.

The FSM isn't clear to me and I haven't done a rotor replacement to see how it's set up but the 5 torx and 5 hex bolts appear to be holding on separate things, thus different torque values. So the 46 ft-lbs and the 22 ft-lb, 90 degree values are correct.

The tool cost will presumably be amortized over multiple brake jobs and they can be used for other repairs. For all your friends with Transits.
 
#33 · (Edited)
airtest said:
After the ford dealer gave me a $1100 quote for rear rotor and pad replacement I installed the PowerStop Z36. But....I requested they check for the reversed bracket...they said they were not reversed....lazy me didn't verify their findings. Short story long...after taking everything apart, I think to myself...better check those brackets. Argggg, they were reversed....probably could have got brakes covered from ford had it not been taken apart. So....check those brackets before you take everything apart...you might save some coin. Also, the PowerStop rotors and pads are sweeeet! The pads MUST be seated correctly to work well....follow the directions and enjoy.
Click to expand...
Hi AirTest,

Can you comment on the Torque spec,s to install new Rotor since you already did the Z36 kit that I will be installing.

Thanks

Thanks Eiko for clearing up the 22ftlb question. I am still not sure which bolts the 22ftlb and 46 ftlb apply to.
 
#35 ·
Tndihb03 said:
I'm doing the rear pads on my 2015 transit 350 xlt and am having problems getting the calipers to compress. The few times I have done brakes I was able to compress them with a C clamp, not this time. Any advice would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Need an rear brake master cylinder tool. Has 2 pins that engage the cylinder allowing it to rotate. Clockwise for the drivers side and counter for the passenger side.
 
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