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I have the base radio that come with the prem package. Does not have any controls for the lights or anything other than radio settings.

The info window has nothing else either about light settings.

So it does look like a switch, or pull the fuse and use a 12 volt red light plugged into an outlet.

At least I can turn them off. Next to figure out if the parking lights are always going to blink when I lock it. That is a problem at star parties too since they are so bright.

Dean
 
Not sure how much of this you are going to be able to toggle off, especially the parking lights flashing when you lock her up. If you are serious about being light-stealthy at your night sky events, it may take some creativity including more-in line switches and "eye patches" for the turn signals positioned ahead of time. Yup, a pain alright . . .

Too much automation which takes owner choice out of the loop . . .

PS -- Do you have a hard copy of the owner's manual?

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/745073/Ford-Transit-2015.html#manual

Edit -- instrument lighting dimmer:

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/745073/Ford-Transit-2015.html?page=71#manual

You can lock and unlock the doors with the key -- not sure if the lights will blink:

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/745073/Ford-Transit-2015.html?page=47#manual
 
I have the owners manual but lacks in these kinds of details. At least is shows what fuses are for what general items.

I have seen people make magnetic covers for the marker lights, maybe some in my future too. haha.

But star party people are generally very trustworthy some not locking vehicles at night is not big deal.
 
Star parties are great here in San Diego. I agree star-party-folks are usually trustworthy.

Interior Lights- Cover using dark felt material when at a star party. Attach with velcro or magnets.

Flashing Exterior Lights- Neodymium magnets glued to felt would work great. They would pack away nicely.

AVIOD cutting or modifying the electrical system. Ford will find a way to permanently void the modified parts. Possibly voiding entire interior wiring harness warranty. Not cool.
 
Our plan is to re-wire the lights, creating a new harness that pulls power from the courtesy light above the seats. Since that light has proper switching we know it has a hot leg. Then we'll wire the lights with two, three-way switches, one by the cargo door and another by the back doors. This will allow for always-off and always-on lighting, with a rocker to turn on the lights when we enter via the cargo door, and turn them off while we're laying in bed.

We have already replaced the 10w bulbs supplied with 1w LEDs that fit perfectly into the sockets for more light with 1/10th of the draw. Photo shows the illumination difference.
 

Attachments

I hope I can convince the dealer that a switch should have been supplied and ask if they can install one. Should not be a big deal for an auto tech. Would be nice to have a 3 way and have the switch by side and rear cargo doors.
 
I hope I can convince the dealer that a switch should have been supplied and ask if they can install one. Should not be a big deal for an auto tech. Would be nice to have a 3 way and have the switch by side and rear cargo doors.
Any progress on getting the dealer to install a switch? Not that it's beyond me, but I think this should have been done by Ford... and yes, I worry about the warranty once I start hacking into the wiring.
 
Our plan is to re-wire the lights, creating a new harness that pulls power from the courtesy light above the seats. Since that light has proper switching we know it has a hot leg. Then we'll wire the lights with two, three-way switches, one by the cargo door and another by the back doors. This will allow for always-off and always-on lighting, with a rocker to turn on the lights when we enter via the cargo door, and turn them off while we're laying in bed.

We have already replaced the 10w bulbs supplied with 1w LEDs that fit perfectly into the sockets for more light with 1/10th of the draw. Photo shows the illumination difference.
I would love to find someone to install a switch for me. In the meantime, can you pass on the vendor and part number for the replacement led bulbs that you used?
Thanks
 
Buy this, connect a switch with a 10 amp fuse and your good to go. Way cheaper than the Blue Ox I did.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TCXOTW/ref=s9_simh_gw_p60_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=0D8TRBM5W7D245BTEV54&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop[/ame]
 
After leaving my door ajar killed my battery twice I installed a switch to turn off the cargo lights. If you cut the white wire with a blue stripe before it goes to the 1st set of lights it turns them all off. To pop the wire cover off, push on the center & pull up.
 
Superbrightleds.com for replacement led dome bulbs.

Keeping an eye on this thread for good switching ideas - I like the idea of a 3way switch at the side and back door...
 
Managing Interior Lights with slider or back door open

I take the bulbs out when Van camping so the interior lights don't come on every time a door is opened.
The switches are "hard wired". I put the bulb in the lense cover and re-install later.
TO MUCH SH#T on new vehicles now! If I want a light "I" will turn it on/off
Well, while working on building a bed in our new transit cargo van, the battery died.. the A,B, and C positions only work when operating the driver or passenger door, the interior cargo lights stay on all the time when either the slider or the back door is open. I am hoping that someone has an easy fix...we don't have an LCD panel or user defined switches--just the basic model.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Well, while working on building a bed in our new transit cargo van, the battery died.. the A,B, and C positions only work when operating the driver or passenger door, the interior cargo lights stay on all the time when either the slider or the back door is open. I am hoping that someone has an easy fix...we don't have an LCD panel or user defined switches--just the basic model.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Unplug them. Two plugs over rear door and one in the black plastic wiring trough about 4' back from driver seat. There is also info on this site about adding a switch. I am just going to run them off the house battery with a switch.
 
Unplug them. Two plugs over rear door and one in the black plastic wiring trough about 4' back from driver seat. There is also info on this site about adding a switch. I am just going to run them off the house battery with a switch.
How does that black plastic wiring race open up? Can't be that hard, but don't want to risk damage.
 
How does that black plastic wiring race open up? Can't be that hard, but don't want to risk damage.
Someone here explained the correct method. I got mine off but did break a couple of the retainer clips. Do not know the correct way.
 
I discussed this situation with the service department at my local ford dealership. Thy offered to install a switch and move the wire to the auxiliary battery. They estimated cost to be $400. That sounded very high to me.
 
The fuse bypass switch is around $70 and installs easily in less than an hour. Leaves everything else intact.
 
Buy this, connect a switch with a 10 amp fuse and your good to go. Way cheaper than the Blue Ox I did.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1&pf_rd_r=0D8TRBM5W7D245BTEV54&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop
Thanks for this link. Just installed mine with a switch attached to the fuse panel. Works great. Most seem to be saying their lights would turn off automatically after 15 minutes but that wasn't the case with my van. I waited over an hour with the rear door open and they never turned off.
 
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