I would think one of these would work. You'd need to find one that fits well over the access point.
solar panel cable entry gland

 

Actually tougher to use those pre-made holes, I think. We have one of those 2-hole glands @Sarah Lagano links above for the solar panels. I knew we'd need more wires going through eventually and finally got around to doing it. I haven't taken any other photos since finishing the install at night.

I bought 8-9 different sized boxes and settled on this one as the best compromise of size and shape. The four entry glands I put in should be enough for everything that will be going through it. Right now, it's the 8 wires from the cellular / WiFi antenna in one of the large glands. Other glands will be Starlink (ethernet cable), and wiring for lights and cameras that will mount on the rack.

Advantage to this method is it can be installed on any flat (or nearly flat) surface with just VHB tape. I put a bead of sika around the first one we did years ago, but didn't bother with the solar or this one. No leaks if the tape is done right. And, as above, the top comes off to maintain or add/remove wires. It would be near impossible to install glands once it's on the roof (due to the angles and the rack and all) but it would be possible to put more glands on if necessary.

Gotta get over drilling holes... 😏 🤷‍♀️

When I install the Starlink cable, I'll get more photos.

 

Right here just use a small drill bit. They fit perfectly in those circles.

 

Just an update, I ordered a few different options and the one @NW_Freedom linked fits those factory holes perfect. I will post pics when done. I mounted the first one last night and it is going to work great. A lot of the option suggested here require new holes and flat spots on the roof. I just wanted to use the holes Ford already had in the roof. Your suggestions were not bad and I have used one of them before for my solar wires. Here is a pic of the solution I’m using for this.

 

Only one of the holes is above the rib If you’re looking at the forward set of holes. I ran coax antenna cable through the other with a cable gland.

 

Hein makes a good one.

 

All these glands are good and I have a couple of them but none of them will fit where these factory holes are. The idea is to not drill any more holes in the roof but use what is there. The one @NW_Freedom linked is one that I was looking at as it might fit right down in there. I also going these and they might work also. I guess I may be ordering a couple different options.

 

I wouldn't like to have the holes on the lower part where water will pool. Really makes a tough job tougher. I think it is much better to have cable glands up on the ribs.

 

Don't over think it. Routing wires through those existing plugged holes will likely require you to cobble something together rather than going with a tested known solution. Adding holes to the roof is only a problem if you don't do a good job sealing it up. Just drill holes where you need them and use an appropriate roof gland with good sealant

 

Well I'm not going to coble anything together, I have drilled holes where I need then, these holes are right where I want the wires to come thur the roof so if I can use them I would like to. I would also feel better having something of my doing in those holes as I have read too many times of this small disks from ford leaking. So use the hole or seal it up anyway.
I have ordered a small sample of wire glands used on boats and other stuff so we will see if any of those will work.

 

i did not want the cables to be visible and to be protected so they are covered by the single solar panel. Location selected was directly above where the solar controller was located inside the van. Also wanted to keep the MC4 connectors between the panel and the roof so if I ever needed to replace the panel it would be easier to do.

Did not use a cable box. Just two 90 degree cable fittings. One for positive and one for negative cable. One side has hole for cable and other end is 1/2" NPT. A electrical knockout punch was user to make the holes. Bought a 15' MC4 cable extension and cut it in two for cables to get from the MC4 connectors and the solar controller. The two cable fittings were part # 8317-K2 bought from McMaster-Carr.

Solar System | Orton Travel Transit (ortontransit.info)

 

Thanks Orion, I have my solar wires going thru a standard cable gland. Like you I kept my MC4 connectors on the roof so I can remove panels if needed. That gland/entry point is on the right side of the roof under the panels so all hidden once the panels are installed next week.
These holes are going to be used for the light bar and pod lights I have mounted on the roof rack. They are all connecting to a relay box so I can turn on only the lights I want or need.

 

I'd avoid using those threaded mounting points to pass wires through. Not only that you'll be taking away a solid mounting point for roof racks in the future, because it was made to hold fixtures, it'll be supported my sheets of metal and braces underneath.
especially if you have to pass through a big wire or more than one, roof entry box and glands are much better and future-ready options as it is serviceable, expandable, and would seal better and when anything goes wrong it'll likely be easier maintenance/repair to deal with.
And by all means, do not drill out the thread on those mounting points, again, they're solid mounting point for racks either for you, if not for whoever next owners might be.

 

I'd avoid using those threaded mounting points to pass wires through. Not only that you'll be taking away a solid mounting point for roof racks in the future, because it was made to hold fixtures, it'll be supported my sheets of metal and braces underneath.
especially if you have to pass through a big wire or more than one, roof entry box and glands are much better and future-ready options as it is serviceable, expandable, and would seal better and when anything goes wrong it'll likely be easier maintenance/repair to deal with.
And by all means, do not drill out the thread on those mounting points, again, they're solid mounting point for racks either for you, if not for whoever next owners might be.

Under some of the plugs there are unthreaded holes. From what I have seen the plugs that have a rectangular indentation around them, are threaded. The others are not. The size of the non threaded hole is much larger than the M8 thread. Probably 13mm.

 

To bring my solar wires in I used a stainless steel bulkhead fitting on one of the back right holes, similar to what @Brandon pictured, along with a 2-wire sealing cable gland that I picked up from McMaster Carr.

 

To bring my solar wires in I used a stainless steel bulkhead fitting on one of the back right holes, similar to what @Brandon pictured, along with a 2-wire sealing cable gland that I picked up from McMaster Carr.
View attachment 189758

This looks very nice. Can you provide links to both? Thank you.

 

 

Ok here are the finished pictures.
One picture is the deck plate mounted to the top of the van. A sharp eye will see that I have it mounted off center to clear my roof rack. After the deck plate you drill a hole in the rubber plug to pull your wire thru. I had to put water on the wire to pull it thru the plug so it is a nice tight fit. The plug is wedge shaped so as you tighten the cap down it squeezes the plug. For now I’m not going to put any Dicor or anything over it as I want to see if it leaks. Later I will put a little around the base and over the screws.
I have 3 more of these to mount. I’m putting my roof rack light pods and light bar wires in these.
the screw holes for the cap are threaded. The screws going into the van are just sheet metal screws.

 

The screws going into the van are just sheet metal screws.

ok so maybe this is a pretty ignorant question but what is the advantage of using the factory holes if you end up needing to drill sheet metal screws into the van roof anyway? I've noticed all these glands seem to work this way. I sort of thought that using the factory holes would be a "no drill" solution that might have advantages not only in needing less skill to install but also maybe less of a chance of rust or corrosion / needing to seal up the cut edge of the roof (beyond just waterproofing). Is "just sheet metal screws" better than some other type of screws or fastener?

I am posting this Far Out Ride part since no one else had mentioned it... it's a bit pricy ($40) but might be an alternative for those not wanting to cut or drill. I'm still waiting for mine to arrive. Biggest issue is I want to pass a USB connector through which ostensibly would not fit so I guess I'll have to get creative.

Cable Entry Pad | Pass-Through for Ford Transit Roof (No Drill/No Screw)

Cable entry for antenna, LED, etc. Use the Ford Transit's factory roof pass-through holes for a no-drill, no-screw installation!

faroutride.com

 

I just mounted my two solar panels so this thread is good timing as I have not decided on the
wire entry method yet , thanks for all the ideas

 

I just mounted my two solar panels so this thread is good timing as I have not decided on the
wire entry method yet , thanks for all the ideas

These holes are not the only factory holes, on the extended length there are 2 more holes up about 2ft from the rear right by a roof seam. Had I seen them before I would have brought my solar in there with the fittings I’m using here in this thread.

 

Couple more pics, one of the parts included and a couple pics of these jokes for those of you that did not know they were just holes. Hardest part was just getting the black glue off the roof

 

Just for future reference.
My van is Ford Transit 2023 MR Crew Van 148.
The factory roof hole size is about approx. 23mm (length) and about 17mm (width); oval shape.
Just an approx.; I haven't removed the cover yet; just looking from the inside etc...
Considering using elbow cable gland from Amazon.


Lee

 

This is my solution for using those holes without any drilling.

https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/threads/long-term-experience-with-solar-entry-glands.101616/?post_id=1321027#post-1321027

 

Thanks for the link; very helpful; I am contemplating doing the same thing; and trying to find the right sealant/glue; seems possible.


Thanks,
Lee