[WanderingBison]

.



in other news: i spent some time recently recording and reverse engineering the IR signals from the remote. i'd like to create a new remote that overcomes some of the misfeatures of the supplied remote -- like the inability to (easily) turn off the fan without the lid closing, the inability to limit the top speed at which the fan will run in temperature control mode, etc. probably a winter project.



paul

I was thinking of doing the same Paul so I'll be watching what you do closely. I was hoping to use the IR codes paired with a transmitter connected and controlled by. Raspberry PI or Arduino to control the fan as part of other climate controls.



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[EddieZ]

...
in other news: i spent some time recently recording and reverse engineering the IR signals from the remote. i'd like to create a new remote that overcomes some of the misfeatures of the supplied remote -- like the inability to (easily) turn off the fan without the lid closing, the inability to limit the top speed at which the fan will run in temperature control mode, etc. probably a winter project.

paul

Interesting! Keep us posted.

 

[jeremywillden]

Paul, are you willing to share the data you collected on the remote codes? I'm working on a similar project and have just begun the process, but if I can use your information as a starting point, I'm more than happy to publish what I find/develop. I'm using a Raspberry Pi as well, but also integrating with a solar charger/inverter and adjusting the HVAC setpoints based on battery charge state. Integrating the MaxxFan should help save some energy depending on the outside temperature.

in other news: i spent some time recently recording and reverse engineering the IR signals from the remote. i'd like to create a new remote that overcomes some of the misfeatures of the supplied remote -- like the inability to (easily) turn off the fan without the lid closing, the inability to limit the top speed at which the fan will run in temperature control mode, etc. probably a winter project.

paul

 

[MsNomer]

If you wear glasses, consider that you might have trouble seeing the buttons/labels on the unit because you would be looking above your glasses. I didn’t know there was an on/off button on the unit until I had cataract surgery.

 

[foxharp]

Paul, are you willing to share the data you collected on the remote codes?

I'm ashamed that collecting the codes was as far as I ever got on that particular project. It's always the hardware aspects of embedded systems that bring me down: what to mount it in, how to implement all the necessary buttons,
etc. You're more than welcome to my data -- I hope it's useful. Let me know if my cryptic notes need fleshing out -- I'm happy to help. http://projects.foxharp.net/maxxfan/maxxfan_remote_cmds.zip

 

[jeremywillden]

Thanks for the codes, much appreciated! I also managed to capture some raw codes in the mean time, I'm attaching an Arduino sketch that transmits them. I've tested some, but not all of them. https://jewelengineering.com/maxair-tx.zip
As written, the USB interface on the Arduino (I'm using a Nano) accepts single-character commands and then bit-bangs the IR codes out a GPIO pin. I'll see what else I can build and post updates if I have them.

 

[jackjumper2]

Yep, get the remote! I did not and wish I did. Now I am looking into getting a 12 v wireless remote.

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Hi, were you able to add a 12v wireless remote successfully?

 

[db5]

Not to resurrect an old thread but I'm curious if anyone that has the powered opening with remote open notices less rattling when driving? I had the non powered version in my old van and even when closed it would be pretty noisy on the highway. If the opening power serves to hold it in place a little better I might go that route.

 

[rf17830]

Maxxair makes a remote panel to control their fan. I mounted two of the remote panels on my C-pilar to control my fans. There is a RJ-45 connector of the fan and on the remote panel for an Ethernet control cable.

I mounted a switch on the B- pillar near the driver seat that controls fan power. When I start driving I can turn off fan power and turn the power back on. The fans close when power is connected.

 

[foxharp]

Not to resurrect an old thread but I'm curious if anyone that has the powered opening with remote open notices less rattling when driving? I had the non powered version in my old van and even when closed it would be pretty noisy on the highway. If the opening power serves to hold it in place a little better I might go that route.

No, I wouldn't say so. In fact in the past we've found that giving the manual knob (there's still a manual control on the remote-capable fans) a hard shove will close the fan a little tighter than the motor did.

And this next part won't apply to your manual situation, but I should also add: the gearbox in our fan (purchased/installed in 2016) broke in half about a year or two ago, and I had to order a new part. First, the new gearbox appeared to be more solidly built, and of a better material, than the poor pot metal of the original. So I'm hoping this one will last. Second, there's a bit of a calibration that you do when replacing the gearbox. Just to be sure the gears and the lever are in proper arrangement. I'm not sure exactly why, but after replacement, the fan seems to close more solidly than it did before. Same motor, new gearbox, maybe new relationship between gears and lever? Don't know.

 

[foxharp]

I mounted a switch on the B- pillar near the driver seat that controls fan power. When I start driving I can turn off fan power and turn the power back on. The fans close when power is connected.

Clever! I knew the fan closes itself when it powers up, but I never considered using that as a feature, to solve the perennial "forgot to close before driving" problem. Just a NC pushbutton would suffice. Heading out on a big trip in a few weeks. I think I still have time...

 

[foxharp]

I was so excited I installed that pushbutton right away. Works great.

I'm surprised, though, at the length of time I have to hold the button to make the fan close when I release it. At least 4 seconds for it to be reliable. I guess the fan draws so little current when off that it takes a while for whatever filter caps they have on the power line to discharge. Maybe a double-throw button or switch, where the fan's power line gets grounded when it's not connected to power, would be better. If I had one, I'd try it, but as it is, I used the only normally-closed button I had on hand. Just have to get used to counting 4 mississippis before releasing.

Suggestions welcome.

 

[rf17830]

Good to hear it worked for you. I have a normal switch to disconnect the fan power. I turn the fan power off, wait a couple seconds, turn the power on and the fans close. The power has to be disconnected briefly but you get used to this. If you want to automate the process you cold install a time delay relay that disconnects power for a consistent time.