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Thanks, I have also been researching the same options. I was on the phone with Aluminess, sadly the options for 2015-2019 vans are less than for the 2020 and up. I asked if the hidden winch mount could be adapted to my 2019 and they were pretty sure that It couldn't (I'm still baffled by that btw).

I primarily want recovery hooks and for recovery, 2 hooks spaced apart acting through a bridle are better than one central one. I like this option and could get shackle points welded onto it, for a total cost that's a lot less than either of the VC or Aluminess options.

I'm really on the fence regarding a winch. It would be useful but is a lot of weight hanging off the front, and for our use may never get used. A receiver could allow a removable winch to be carried when venturing into remote places and fitted when needed.
A bridle or equalizer can exert a lot pressure between the 2 hooks, depending on a bunch of factors. I would think having a tube or boxed steel between the two hooks would be better than just the cut and bolted stamped metal of the existing bumber. So I think any of these receiver options, with tow hooks added, would be better than 2 of the VC tow hooks. But I need to get a closer look at the factory bumper steel.

I think the Torklift hitch is all stainless. Not sure if that matters when getting tow hooks welded on. Must be doable.

Regarding a winch, I opted for the More Power Puller instead. Certainly more cumbersome than a winch, but more versatile, in my opinion. Plus useful around the property, on other vehicles, and way lighter and cheaper than a winch. Deadlift/pull of 6000/12000 lbs is impressive.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
A bridle or equalizer can exert a lot pressure between the 2 hooks, depending on a bunch of factors. I would think having a tube or boxed steel between the two hooks would be better than just the cut and bolted stamped metal of the existing bumber. So I think any of these receiver options, with tow hooks added, would be better than 2 of the VC tow hooks. But I need to get a closer look at the factory bumper steel.

I think the Torklift hitch is all stainless. Not sure if that matters when getting tow hooks welded on. Must be doable.

Regarding a winch, I opted for the More Power Puller instead. Certainly more cumbersome than a winch, but more versatile, in my opinion. Plus useful around the property, on other vehicles, and way lighter and cheaper than a winch. Deadlift/pull of 6000/12000 lbs is impressive.
Agreed, I have been looking at the More Power Puller as well.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Regarding a winch, I opted for the More Power Puller instead. Certainly more cumbersome than a winch, but more versatile, in my opinion.
I have a similar come-along (but not exactly the same). On mine, the "built in safety feature" is that the handle is designed to collapse (to destruction) before the rating of the come-along is exceeded. When this happens (and it happens suddenly) the come-along becomes useless. Just something to be aware of.
 
I have a similar come-along (but not exactly the same). On mine, the "built in safety feature" is that the handle is designed to collapse (to destruction) before the rating of the come-along is exceeded. When this happens (and it happens suddenly) the come-along becomes useless. Just something to be aware of.
Yes, that's the same with this one. Though the handle is supposed to bend just outside of the handle socket. Then you cut it off at the bend and reuse it. Here is what they say about that, and the extension handle:

"You would only want to order one extension handle. The regular safety handle will still bend where it should. One nice thing with having the extension handle is that when (if) the regular handle bends, you can cut the regular handle off and keep using it until you don't like the leverage that is left. The regular handle can be cut off up to 4 times. You should drill a ÂĽ" hole in it for the cotter key."

I have both the handle extension and a replacement handle, but haven't used the puller in a situation anywhere near its capacity yet.
 
Then you cut it off at the bend and reuse it.
That's a way better deal than what I have. Mine bends and that's it. And replacement handles are not cheap. This is better. Plus with this one if a guy is daring, he can make his own, non-bendable handle by just using a piece of stout pipe -- and make it as long as he wants. That wouldn't work with my come-along.
 
I spent much of today getting probably 200lb of caked mud out of the underside on the van. It had a lot of plant roots and fiber in it so set solid like adobe. This was after 3 power washes the morning after. My drive is now the pink/grey of the Alabama Hills lol.
I cleaned, inspected and lubed all of the recovery kit. 2 of the 4 traction boards are cracked and scrap. The design has changed so if I get two replacements, the new ones and originals wont nest together. So I'll need a set of 4 - annoying but they were cheap ones off Amazon for $90/pair and served us well as ramps, levels and even their actual purpose for 3 years. I'm not that certain $350 MaxTrax would have lasted much longer.
Made from Nylon 6 and heavy like the MaxTrax with a Hi-Lift base that serves to link the boards, as well.
 
Those steel cable come-alongs do not last long, The cables quickly become frayed. I have a chain come-along, I use it at work and sometimes to get my side by side motorcycle unstuck. It works in deep mud.
This is the one I have, It has 20 feet of chain. There are much lower cost versions in this same catalog.

 
Just got back from a week-long, 1400mile camping and trip taking in Joshua Tree, Anza Borrego, Alabama Hills and Mono- lake areas. Mostly on-highway but some great off-roading and boon-docking in Anza Borrego. On our way back we decided to boondock overnight in the Alabama Hills.

While exploring some potential sites, I put us on a muddy trail that dead-ended in a muddy swamp. We passed through the first mud bath down-hill with enough momentum to clear it, before realizing that wed gone too far. After turning around and attempting to get back, I hit the mud bath going up hill, too slow and on a bad line. I buried our van to the frame rails. Totally and utterly buried, to the point that we were close to blocking the driver's door. Oh, and it was getting dark fast.

I had worried about this scenario and here it was. Time for the test.

My self-rescue kit includes an extra-long Hi-Lift, with a full complement of optional tools, including wheel hooks, 4 traction boards, tow ropes and a full-size industrial grade shovel. My plan was to lift the wheels and use traction boards.

I worked the rear, using the wheel hook attachment on our Hi-lift jack to lift each rear wheel high enough to get a traction board under it.

Meanwhile my heroic wife dug-out the front wheels to a depth where she could start to wedge a traction board under each. She came up with a brilliant idea to use the mallet we carry, to drive them far enough under each of the front wheels - it worked and I did the same at the rear.

I drove out on the first attempt - nobody was more surprised than me lol.

It was dark and cold, so I didn't get any photos of the extraction. We camped 50 yds back up the trail on firm ground overnight and I took these photos the next morning.

Some random post-action thoughts and observations:

1) I should not have driven through the mud in the first place. The ground was unbelievably soft from all the snow-melt.
2) The Hi-Lift acted up - because I had neglected to lubricate its pins for too long. This probably cost us 40min or so and a busted knuckle or three.
3) Once we got it working, it lifted each rear wheel clear of the mud with ease. I was able to put lots of daylight between the mud and the underside of the van and position the traction boards under the rear wheels.
4) A mallet is surprisingly useful for placing traction boards in muddy conditions.
5) We carry a full-size shovel and we are very glad that we do. One of those mini-shovels would have been a nightmare.
6) You typically only get one shot with traction boards, as they get buried in use. It's critical to prepare well and give your first attempt the best chance pf working. Placing the boards is critical and patience important. The plan worked!
7) I'm fortunate to have competent, experienced crew - my wife! She was utterly fantastic. Decades of sailing together probably helps.
8) A winch would have been useless - there was nothing to anchor to for a 100yards or more in every direction, and the ground was far too soft for an anchor to work.
9) A tow-out would have been problematic - I don't yet have front-mounted hard-points and shackles - that's getting fixed as a priority.
10) The cover/skid plate that I made for our under mounted water tank, pump and filter, did its job and protected all of the external plumbing.

The hardest part was getting all the mud of us, the van and our kit.
The best part was facing and solving a challenge together and the increased confidence that came from it.

The picture below doesn't really show how deep and soft the mud was. It looked very deceptive and that's what sucked me in (pun intended). The mud was soft to a depth of at least 2-3 feet. Two of the traction boards were driven deep into the mud, while doing their job. One was driven downwards at a 45deg angle and took me 30-40 minutes to dig out.

View attachment 189719
View attachment 189720
Glad you got out. When it's that bad I usually keep one side up on the shrubs/grass, the other side in the center.

Cheers.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Glad you got out. When it's that bad I usually keep one side up on the shrubs/grass, the other side in the center.

Cheers.
Yes, same here and that's what I was attempting to do. There is a decent camber to the left that doesn't show in the picture, and we slid into the rut. You can see the trajectory of the rear wheel in the mud bath.
 
Thanks, I have also been researching the same options. I was on the phone with Aluminess, sadly the options for 2015-2019 vans are less than for the 2020 and up. I asked if the hidden winch mount could be adapted to my 2019 and they were pretty sure that It couldn't (I'm still baffled by that btw).

I primarily want recovery hooks and for recovery, 2 hooks spaced apart acting through a bridle are better than one central one. I like this option and could get shackle points welded onto it, for a total cost that's a lot less than either of the VC or Aluminess options.

I'm really on the fence regarding a winch. It would be useful but is a lot of weight hanging off the front, and for our use may never get used. A receiver could allow a removable winch to be carried when venturing into remote places and fitted when needed.
I feel the same way and got a receiver along with the recovery hooks. Haven't gotten the receiver mounted winch yet but one of these days I will.
 
I feel the same way and got a receiver along with the recovery hooks. Haven't gotten the receiver mounted winch yet but one of these days I will.
I understand why two tow hooks are better than one, given when you only have one it will likely be mounted offset from the center. I'm not entirely clear why tow hooks are still necessary in the presence of a frame mounted receiver since the receiver would be mounted to the frame in the same 2 places that the tow hooks would be. And the receiver connects the two frame rails with a very solid tube or boxed piece.

Two tow hooks allow for the use of a bridle, which distributes the pulling force between the 2 hooks, though not necessarily evenly. And doesn't the hitch effectively do the same thing, but with a typically stronger connection?
 
I understand why two tow hooks are better than one, given when you only have one it will likely be mounted offset from the center. I'm not entirely clear why tow hooks are still necessary in the presence of a frame mounted receiver since the receiver would be mounted to the frame in the same 2 places that the tow hooks would be. And the receiver connects the two frame rails with a very solid tube or boxed piece.

Two tow hooks allow for the use of a bridle, which distributes the pulling force between the 2 hooks, though not necessarily evenly. And doesn't the hitch effectively do the same thing, but with a typically stronger connection?
I am not sure, but it seems that the two tow hooks or even one bolted to the frame, made of thick steel would offer more structural integrity than relying on a receiver pin that may be 1/2" in diameter.
 
I spent much of today getting probably 200lb of caked mud out of the underside on the van. It had a lot of plant roots and fiber in it so set solid like adobe. This was after 3 power washes the morning after. My drive is now the pink/grey of the Alabama Hills lol.
I cleaned, inspected and lubed all of the recovery kit. 2 of the 4 traction boards are cracked and scrap. The design has changed so if I get two replacements, the new ones and originals wont nest together. So I'll need a set of 4 - annoying but they were cheap ones off Amazon for $90/pair and served us well as ramps, levels and even their actual purpose for 3 years. I'm not that certain $350 MaxTrax would have lasted much longer.
Those boards look identical to the pair that came on the 2017 HR Ext RWD we purchased in October - already built. First use in snotty southern Idaho mud, not even close to as deep as you were in, just that wet surface film that robs traction, and the boards cracked nearly to oblivion. A good portion of that result seemed due to absorbing UV light on the roof rack prior to our purchase. So…

Having a modified Jeep and experiencing extreme success with all things ARB, I opted for their Tred Pro boards - which cracked the first use in semi-firm Moab sand. 🤦🏻‍♂️ The boards are uni-directional, with a specific entry and exit. The exit is like the entry minus the ramp, and I think the weight was “bridged” between the sides causing the center to flex and initiate the cracking. It only occurred on the exit end, and the boards were well placed and supported. Post experience reading shows multiple similar occurrences in similar temperatures - 50-ish degrees - so not a cold related failure.

ARB does not handle the warranty, Tred does directly. Even if they warranty them, I now have limited faith in their strength and durability. Will I end up in an endless loop of warranty replacements? Maybe if I use and break them frequently enough. Or will enough time transpire by the time I use and break the replacements that are hopefully coming that the warranty will have expired?

Seems like in this day of advanced materials a better product could exist.
 
Looks promising. Do you have these, and if so have you put them to the test?
I haven't used them yet. Feel substantial in hand and nest nicely. I went looking for a Nylon board that was cheaper than the Maxtrax with some favorable online reviews. These three guys whack on the Bunker boards pretty good and they seem take it well.

 
We were in A Hills last week too. Had a great site and all the mud is gone except for. 6-10’ section on one of the trails. But we had our mountain bikes on that one. I only carry two Maxtrax clone boards, and leave my HiLift at home when out in the van. But interested in the Torklift setup … at least it’s useful for when a good Samaritan or just a buddy can pull you out from the front. I do always carry a 30’ strap plus a tree saver to use as a front bridle, plus various hard and soft shackles, along with the two boards (XBull?).
 
few thoughts...
Tow hooks aren't just for towing. If you have a winch then you have options for double/triple line pulls.
If you bridle, no more than a 30 degree angle should be formed by the bridle. You also shouldn't use 2 separate straps.
Most tree savers aren't big enough to be good bridles. If you're really stuck, you'll most likely bend your frame inward on both sides.
Maxtraxx or similar are not a singular solution. You need something else to make them work, whether that's a shovel, jack, winch, tow strap, etc.
Maxtraxx or similar are not shovels, no matter what the box says.
With the Transit, be prepared to dig out your shock mounts and differential.
 
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