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Discussion starter · #41 ·
few thoughts...
Tow hooks aren't just for towing. If you have a winch then you have options for double/triple line pulls.

Agreed, finally bit the bullet and ordered a VC winch tray with recovery points and I/C skid plate

If you bridle, no more than a 30 degree angle should be formed by the bridle. You also shouldn't use 2 separate straps.
Most tree savers aren't big enough to be good bridles. If you're really stuck, you'll most likely bend your frame inward on both sides.

Agreed, the bridle has the same advantages and drawbacks on multihulls and vehicles. it needs to be long and at a shallow angle, its purpose is to project the pivot point 9or center of pull) well beyond the front of whatever is being towed, extracted or anchored.

Maxtraxx or similar are not a singular solution. You need something else to make them work, whether that's a shovel, jack, winch, tow strap, etc.
Maxtraxx or similar are not shovels, no matter what the box says. With the Transit, be prepared to dig out your shock mounts and differential.

Our real full-size shovel, High-Lift jack and decent compliment of High-Lift accessories were essential to our success.
Using the High-Lift, I was easily able to lift the van's undersides well clear of the mud and get the traction boards under the wheels with it. It saved hours of digging.
Great points! Our own experience added to your comments above. (y)
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
We were in A Hills last week too. Had a great site and all the mud is gone except for. 6-10’ section on one of the trails. But we had our mountain bikes on that one. I only carry two Maxtrax clone boards, and leave my HiLift at home when out in the van. But interested in the Torklift setup … at least it’s useful for when a good Samaritan or just a buddy can pull you out from the front. I do always carry a 30’ strap plus a tree saver to use as a front bridle, plus various hard and soft shackles, along with the two boards (XBull?).
IMHO, 2 tracks are not enough and you are leaving the essential stuff behind. A High-Lift jack with the wheel hook attachment, saves hours of digging and a real shovel saves even more time for whatever digging is left.
 
few thoughts...
Tow hooks aren't just for towing. If you have a winch then you have options for double/triple line pulls.
If you bridle, no more than a 30 degree angle should be formed by the bridle. You also shouldn't use 2 separate straps.
Most tree savers aren't big enough to be good bridles. If you're really stuck, you'll most likely bend your frame inward on both sides.
Maxtraxx or similar are not a singular solution. You need something else to make them work, whether that's a shovel, jack, winch, tow strap, etc.
Maxtraxx or similar are not shovels, no matter what the box says.
With the Transit, be prepared to dig out your shock mounts and differential.
Do you agree that a hitch mounted to the same 2 points that the 2 tow hooks would be mounted to effectively becomes a bridle? That's the way I'm thinking, and considering just the hitch with no tow hooks. But curious if my reasoning is wrong.
 
IMHO, 2 tracks are not enough and you are leaving the essential stuff behind. A High-Lift jack with the wheel hook attachment, saves hours of digging and a real shovel saves even more time for whatever digging is left.
Yeah, I used to always carry the high lift with previous vehicles; used it once 25 years ago. But as they say, it’s the stuff you left at home that will end up being what you need. We just got a puppy and for now are bringing a crate, plus two mountain bikes and space is getting tight because of all the stuff we bring that hasn’t been needed … yet. However I did just mount the tracks on the roof so I guess two more won’t take up any more room. What brand do you have? But I’m sure not hoisting my HiLift up there :)
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Do you agree that a hitch mounted to the same 2 points that the 2 tow hooks would be mounted to effectively becomes a bridle? That's the way I'm thinking, and considering just the hitch with no tow hooks. But curious if my reasoning is wrong.
Not really. What I realized is that the hitch receivers are not really designed to take the load of a 9000lb van being pulled out of the mud, sand or hole. The are primarily designed to support a bike carrier. The hitch receivers (VC and the newer alternative) are mounted to a bar that can flex.
With the VC winch base, its tow hooks are effectively mounted directly through to the frame and the winch sits on big, rigid and well supported shear plate.
 
Discussion starter · #46 · (Edited)
Yeah, I used to always carry the high lift with previous vehicles; used it once 25 years ago. But as they say, it’s the stuff you left at home that will end up being what you need. We just got a puppy and for now are bringing a crate, plus two mountain bikes and space is getting tight because of all the stuff we bring that hasn’t been needed … yet. However I did just mount the tracks on the roof so I guess two more won’t take up any more room. What brand do you have? But I’m sure not hoisting my HiLift up there :)
I have my High-Lift mounted to the rear door ladder. My traction boards are X-Bull. They are 3 years old, badly sun damaged, got used a lot for levelling. Two were split badly in the recovery - but still worked. The two cracked ones need to be replaced, but X-Bull changed the design, and the new ones won't nest with the old ones. :mad: so getting 4 more.
Tempted to go with Rhino this time - similar design but in reinforced nylon (like Maxxtracks) instead of polypropylene, so maybe a bit stronger, flexible and a tiny bit lighter.
 
few thoughts...
Tow hooks aren't just for towing. If you have a winch then you have options for double/triple line pulls.
If you bridle, no more than a 30 degree angle should be formed by the bridle. You also shouldn't use 2 separate straps.
Most tree savers aren't big enough to be good bridles. If you're really stuck, you'll most likely bend your frame inward on both sides.
Maxtraxx or similar are not a singular solution. You need something else to make them work, whether that's a shovel, jack, winch, tow strap, etc.
Maxtraxx or similar are not shovels, no matter what the box says.
With the Transit, be prepared to dig out your shock mounts and differential.
So people don't go scratching their head over their rusty trigonometry, rule of thumb is for a bridle with 30 degree included angle, total bridle length should be 4 times anchor spacing. Anchor spacing on most rigs is a bit under 4 ft, thus a 15 ft bridle would be about minimum one should consider.
 
I have my High-Lift mounted to the rear door ladder. My taction boards are XThey are 3 years old, badly sun damaged, got used a lot for levelling. Two were split badly in the recovery - but still worked. The two cracked ones need to be replaced, but X-bull changed the design and the new ones won't nest with the old ones. :mad: so getting 4 more.
Tempted to go with Rhino this time - similar design but in reinforced nylon (like Maxxtracks) instead of polypropylene, so stronger, more flexible and a tiny bit lighter.
I looked at the Rhino boards, too, but went with the Bunker industries RTK9 aka RTK-Pro model because it was listed at double the weight capacity (or quadruple--listed at 20 tons and also 20000 lbs, so going with the lower of the two) for the same price, and the Bunkers stack better (0.5" vs 1.5" overlap, though overall stack height same at 4.5"). I couldn't find any independent videos testing the Rhino like were found for the Bunker in my posting above.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
I just snapped my Maxtraxs in half getting off a beach. I treat recovery boards as a consumable item. Just buy the cheapest ones you can (these were a gift).
Yup, as a former manufacturing engineer, polymers are polymers. No way I'm going to shell out >$700 for a set of 4 lumps of injection molded plastic.
 
Yup, as a former manufacturing engineer, polymers are polymers. No way I'm going to shell out >$700 for a set of 4 lumps of injection molded plastic.
The polymers are mostly polymers, though I assume that even at the pellet level PC is more expensive than PP or PS. But add some glass or carbon filler and things change. And based on the deflection of an XBull with a chonky Transit on it, I might pay a bit for some increased modulus. Or maybe just a strategic bit of aluminum stiffener.
 
The comment on needing a good (steel) shovel is important. When I got my van stuck in deep snow, the rear diff and shock mounts got buried. There’s was no chance I could get out even with traction boards unless I could have cleared the snow away (I’d need a metal shovel for the compacted snow). Same would apply for dirt and mud and sand
 
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The comment on needing a good (steel) shovel is important. When I got my van stuck in deep snow, the rear diff and shock mounts got buried. There’s was no chance I could get out even with traction boards unless I could have cleared the snow away (I’d need a metal shovel for the compacted snow). Same would apply for dirt and mud and sand
Unless you had a Hi-Lift with base and 4 traction boards!
 
If you can, you definitely should try to clear as much sand/snow/dirt/rocks/debris as possible from around your diff and lower shock mounts regardless of a hi-lift or now. You want to increase your odds of getting out the first time as much as possible so you don’t dig your van in deeper.

this includes clearing the area in front of your diff, not just directly in below it. Sometimes 5-10 horizontal feet of digging is a very wise investment of effort to let yourself drive out once you get off the traction boards with some momentum.

even with a high lift there would have been no chance of getting out if I hadn’t cleared the area in front of the diff too. I would have just ground the diff out again 5 ft later…
 
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Discussion starter · #57 ·
If you can, you definitely should try to clear as much sand/snow/dirt/rocks/debris as possible from around your diff and lower shock mounts regardless of a hi-lift or now. You want to increase your odds of getting out the first time as much as possible so you don’t dig your van in deeper.

this includes clearing the area in front of your diff, not just directly in below it. Sometimes 5-10 horizontal feet of digging is a very wise investment of effort to let yourself drive out once you get off the traction boards with some momentum.

even with a high lift there would have been no chance of getting out if I hadn’t cleared the area in front of the diff too. I would have just ground the diff out again 5 ft later…
Great point, each situation is different. We were stuck in a short but deep mud hole. The high lift was enough to raise the van clear of the mud and the traction boards got us moving far enough to get the front wheels on firm ground. Getting out of a long section of deep snow is a different challenge.

One big takeaway for me, was to invest the time to really think it all through, fully prepare and then double check the details. My wife was brilliant in this regard working up a check list, just like we do when sailing. I'd forgotten to air down and her checklist caught it.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
A few days ago, I ordered the VanCompass winch, hitch and recovery mount, with the I/C skid plate and included the nerf bar in a moment of weakness.
They all arrived today. :love:
But I haven't ordered a winch yet. So my OCD drive to get it all mounted up TODAY, is competing with the same OCD drive to choose the best winch for the money :eek:.

I "invested" 8hrs yesterday reading and watching winch reviews lol. It looks like lots of the more affordable brands are using the same Chinese sourced components and/or complete systems. Some look almost identical apart from the stickers and the color of the "dyneema clone" rope.
BTW, before everybody piles in telling me to get a Warn, it turns out they are sourced and/or made in China just like all the others, and didn't do too well in many of the comparison tests.
 
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