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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Bruce, can you comment on what the inside of the DPF looks like? Is the catalytic converter integral to the DPF? I can't remember if its a separate component or not. Three weeks without the van now.
 
Bruce - can you also comment on how you unbolted to remove the DPF? I tried it myself but could not with the limited tools that I had. I asked a mechanic to take it off for me. I just wanted to bring it to a DPF shop for professional cleaning & baking. But he said he wouldn't touch it fearing the bolts would break. Thanks.
 
Sorry I haven't been on here for a week. They unbolt in three pieces The front DPF and mid then tail pipe. The two DPF's have to be cut open and welded back together. Mine unbolted fine. But I have used a torch to heat bolts on exhaust to brake them lose. The inside to of the converter is a hard ceramic. I drilled it out with a concert drill. Make sure you wear a mask. If you don't weld, but you can do the rest. make sure you mark the DPF before cutting it open. I used a cut off wheel and marked it, then cut it open and knocked it all out. Then go to a welder that can tig it back is the best. But you can weld it other ways to. Just make sure you keep it in order! Are it will not fit. If you can find junk yard parts to gut and save the old stuff that would be good. But this is more then most will be able to do. So know your limits!
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Are you sure that the first one isn't the catalytic converter? I was wondering if rather than modify the DPF and cat, I could have a straight pipe fabbed and have the exhaust shop flare the stock set up so i could re-install it with band clamps.
 
Are you sure that the first one isn't the catalytic converter? I was wondering if rather than modify the DPF and cat, I could have a straight pipe fabbed and have the exhaust shop flare the stock set up so i could re-install it with band clamps.
The one right out of the turbo is the SBS, Single Brick System. The next big one is the Cat. Both have a bunch of ceramic in them. I gutted both of them.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Interesting, I thought the first one was the cat, and the big one was the DPF. But that's just based on the size of a regular cat that i'm used to on a gasser.
 
For egr delete, wouldn't just welding it shut solve that problem and not require any tuning or messing with the egr valve, it would be rendered mute with no exhaust gases flowing through it correct?
 

I just went through this company, so far so good.
He gotten better. That is who I used. After 3 times of turning mine it better. But I'm still getting regen diesel exhaust filter codes. And he won't return my calls are email.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Well, I found a pretty good, non intrusive solution. Kind of. I called my dealership principal, and inquired about purchasing an extended warranty for my van. For once, my dealerships incompetence paid off: She under quoted me on a 5 year/100k km BUMPER TO BUMPER warranty for 5700$. Warranty covers everything, including brakes, and has full rental vehicle coverage. I jumped at the offer, because there's no way I can sell my van, and get a new one with that much warranty (doesn't exist in a new car warranty) for less than 6k. So now, my van is completely covered for the next 5 years or 100k kms. It's not a delete, or tune, but at least I won't be out of pocked every few months. I have a feeling that this vehicle, despite my maintenance routine, will be costly to own once out of warranty. So I fixed the warranty issue, rather than the mechanical issues.
 
We just had this done on ours, by a reputable local diesel specialist shop. They only do engine work, only on diesels, big and small.

From what I understand, they gut the particulate filter, disable the whole EGR and DEF system, and reprogram the ECU, to make sure that whatever sensors are out there to send whatever signal involved in the anti-pollution system, is disabled.

I have not been doing highway miles yet, but so far, I haven't had any CELs, nor the little «info» light that comes on when there is a «message» (such as low DEF level, etc...). I was sort of expecting the vehicle to be peppier, but since it's a rather heavy, RV-converted van that probably weighs close to 7k lbs without luggage (I kknow it weighs 7300 lbs when we go camping with all our gear, food, water, etc...), it seems to be just as slow as before.

Apparently, it will run cooler, and we can probably let it idle without fear of gunking up the system, which is a big bonus for us.
 
It's an old thread but I wanted to add that if you decide to temporarily disable the regen, it's possible that the DEF system would also be disabled, but it's best to confirm with a professional or by checking the vehicle manual. As for the EGR cooler assembly, it's unfortunate that there's no aftermarket delete kit available at this time, but it's good to know that it's covered under a warranty. Finally, it's important to be aware of the impact any tune or electronics modifications can have on your vehicle's performance and longevity. Have you considered trying a DPF cleaning service like dpf filter Freightliner? It might be worth exploring as a less invasive alternative.
 
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