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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now that my 2015 is about to be out of warranty, lets really start compiling info on deleting, or at least deactivating the troublesome EGR, DPF and DEF systems from our diesels. Some forum members have claimed successful deletes, but never actually follow up with more info. Self preservation? Perhaps. But maybe just internet falsity. I invite those that have successfully deleted the hardware chime in. The goal here is to determine what is the least intrusive way to effectively disable the EGR, and DEF systems, while modifying as little hardware on the van as possible.

I optioned my van with the "active regeneration inhibitor". I can actually shut down the auto regen when i know i'm not doing a long enough trip to fully clean the filter. I rarely use it, but it has come in handy when i notice i'm stuck in a driving cycle that results in the DPF cycling from 80-100%. I turn off the auto feature, until I'm ready to drive all the way home, allowing the regen to complete.

I'm wondering if turning off the regen also disables the DEF system temporarily, or is DEF constantly being injected into the exhaust, independent of the regen cycles? This knowledge would be key in determining if, once the DPF itself is physically removed, or gutted and fitted with a straight through pipe, it would be as simple as inhibiting the active regen via the settings the screen.

Then next question mark is the EGR and EGR cooler assembly. Unlike the larger diesels, there is no aftermarket delete kit, or upgraded replacement available at this time. There are several discussions around the internet regarding weather or not electronically commanding the EGR valve to stay shut (EGR off) will actually increase the life of the cooler. My opinion is "kinda, maybe". However, the EGR cooler itself is covered under a Ford extended warranty. My van is at the dealer getting it replaced for the second time right now, with a mere 114k kms on it. First replacement happened at 60K kms.

Finally, the electronics, or tune. xphobe has really done us a great service by pursuing this matter. Read up on his adventures in tuning here: FINALLY...flash tuner for 3.2L powerstroke
 

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Self preservation? Perhaps. But maybe just internet falsity. I invite those that have successfully deleted the hardware chime in.
Probably self preservation. I doubt anyone is going to be anxious to openly state they have illegally removed the pollution control systems from their vehicle.
 

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Especially after several companies offering the means to do deletes have recently been handed HUGE fines by the EPA...
 

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hammerdown, I had my fun with a 2010 Sprinter diesel emissions nightmare, so I went with a gasser Transit. It is up to you to test a tune. Maybe they offer a money back guarantee? I do not see many diesel owners on this site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Trade it for a gasser is least intrusive way... but not the point overall. I doubt the EPA and ministry of environment (canada) are lurking our lowly forums.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To elaborate on why i'm not hot on trading it for a gasser: I own my van. It wasn't cheap. Paid it off last year. It has 114k kms on it. I special ordered it, optioned exactly the way I wanted it. I up-fitted it exactly the way I wanted it. I maintain it meticulously and rust proof it yearly. I have two sets of wheels and tires. I guess what I'm getting at is that I have pride of ownership. This vehicle is hardly used and abused and ready to be discarded. It really grinds my gears to get rid of this thing because of poor engineering, and basically subscribe to the idea that a 56k dollar vehicle is disposable after the warranty period is up.
 

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I bought a used diesel and converted into a camper van. Almost done with the conversion so don't want to switch car at this point. It has 105K miles. I maintain it faithfully - changing oil every 5-6K, swapped out portion of transmission liquid, liqui moly diesel purge, adding hot shots extreme (occasionally) and EDT every fill up, and most recently adding better diesel FBC every fill up. The latest product helped extend my distance between regen from 110 miles to 170 miles. Pretty significant!

Engine runs really quiet and I'm happy with the performance, only concerned about longevity of the EPA components, DPF, EGR. I tried once to remove the DPF for a cleaning service but could not do it. Bolts were too hard. Asked a mechanic to do it for me and he refused, fearing of breaking the bolts. I thought my distance between regens was too low and so needed a professional baking and cleaning.

Incidentally I noticed that my car does not have a differential pressure sensor measuring before and after PDF, only one sensor measuring pressure pre-DPF. I guess they judge degree of clogness based on absolute pressure reading, even though their manual said they used differential.

Hammerdown - do you know what the average distance between regens is, if driving long distance? Secondly, can you look to see if you have a single pressure sensor or differential one for the DPF?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'd say my distance between regens is average. Depending on where i'm working (construction) i can do months of city driving and short trips, followed by months of highway driving. It will still get down to 0%. Here in Ontario, we don't emissions test our vehicles any more. Which is a good thing for those looking to delete.
 

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Using ForScan I can monitor distance since last DPF regen, DPF temperature so I know when it does the regen, etc. Other than that I don't have the option to start or disable regen like yours. As mentioned, I'm able to get distance between regens to 170+ miles. Ford manual says it can go up to 300-350 miles. So I'm wondering if mine is this way because of its high mileage, or something else. Do you monitor your distance between regens, and what is it?

BTW ForScan tells me that a regen will bring it down from 100% to 24% only, not 0%. I don't know what set that limit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm going to look into Forscan and definitely picking up some hotshot extreme. Vans been in the shop for two weeks now.
 

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Using ForScan I can monitor distance since last DPF regen, DPF temperature so I know when it does the regen, etc. Other than that I don't have the option to start or disable regen like yours. As mentioned, I'm able to get distance between regens to 170+ miles. Ford manual says it can go up to 300-350 miles. So I'm wondering if mine is this way because of its high mileage, or something else. Do you monitor your distance between regens, and what is it?

BTW ForScan tells me that a regen will bring it down from 100% to 24% only, not 0%. I don't know what set that limit.
Probably because the DPF is getting loaded with ash. Eventually the DPF must be replaced when it gets filled with ash. That usually happens with high mileage - above 100,000 miles.
 

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I'd say my distance between regens is average. Depending on where i'm working (construction) i can do months of city driving and short trips, followed by months of highway driving. It will still get down to 0%. Here in Ontario, we don't emissions test our vehicles any more. Which is a good thing for those looking to delete.
Short trips is the killer of these modern diesels with so much emissions crap to break, that it causes more emissions shipping the new parts and driving to the dealer, than it saves. You really need to figure out a solution to tune it and get rid of that garbage.

I did short trips in my Sprinter and had lots of problems, the high milers seem to do better, as you get a passive regen, and more flow through the EGR.
 

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I'm going to look into Forscan and definitely picking up some hotshot extreme. Vans been in the shop for two weeks now.
What for Hammerdown? I'm so nervous taking my Transit to the dealer now - last time took it in for a couple recalls (one of which was for reprogramming the controller, required by DMV for renewal). I noticed crazy rattling sound from engine compartment afterward - turn out they didn't bolt down the heat shield properly.

ForScan allows you monitor many parameters you can't get with Torque Pro, and gives me something to look at while driving. HotShot Extreme and EDT help clean my injectors - noticeably smoother engine and slight increase in MPG after a couple treatments. And Better Diesel FBC did wonder to extend my distance between regens. Look it up.
 

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Just saw this Jalopnik article posted on the Sprinter forum. It's not just the EPA going after those illegally modifying diesels.

 

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My tuner was slapped with a $50,000 fine, and I still have my tunes. It is at the tuners own risk to do tuning. OTOH, if I had a diesel Transit, I would be getting a tested tune ASAP, before the tuner is our of business.
 

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With yours being older then a 2017 it not as hard to do.The ECU will not have to be opened up to rewire to allow tuning. light speed in canida and do the tune ether way. There are others But Cam at light speed is a nice guy and will work with you. There are is a place in EU that will sale you a tune but you have to be able to do it all your self. I have done it on my 2017. But I all so live were they don't check of it. If you live were they do. I wouldn't do it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think the toughest part of this whole project will be gutting the actual DPF. It's integral with the Catalytic converter. My goal is to maintain a completely stock looking vehicle. Here in Ontario we no longer smog check vehicles. And when we did, the "drive clean" test consisted of checking for stored codes and nothing else.
 

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I did it all my self, But it is a little work. If you have the setup to weld it not hard. I cut it open with a cutoff wheel and welded it with with a 3/32 E308l/16 rod. Just make sure you wire wheel it really good before welding it. I didn't have any trouble unbolting any of it. Cam will tell you what to leave in and out. I'm very happy with how will it works now.
 
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