[ranxerox]

(i remember everything i read) so far on this forum for the transit differentials there has been an driveshaft related pinon gear self destruction, a couple wheel seal complaints, a thread or two on differential gear galling and replacement, and multiple limited slip clutch problems. (there is still a lot here i have not read.)

i was only able to find the wheel seal thread, lots of good info there!

http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/engine-technical-discussion/7977-rear-axle-seal-leak.html

 

[Budsky]

Checking differential fluid is easy, if the pumpkin shows no signs of leakage, you are good to go.

Not necessarily- It can also leak oil out the wheel seals so it does need to be checked occasionally.

 

[stockrex]

The diff plug is on the forward left side of the diff just back and left of the drive shaft coupling. Mine isn't hard to remove. I've checked the level twice.

So to check the level I take off the plug and stick my finger in to check the level?

 

[Truck]

I'm just going to change mine for fun since I'm at 60k miles. I'm not getting a fancy diff cover. But what fluid am I supposed to be adding?

Is it 2.65 liters to fill, about?

The manual is all kinds of garbage like we know. First it says "Normal Maintenance Schedule" is to change axle fluid every 150,000 miles. Then on the next page it says:

"Normal vehicle axle maintenance: Rear
axles and power take-off units with
synthetic fluid and light-duty trucks
equipped with Ford-design axles are
lubricated for life; do not check or change
fluid unless a leak is suspected, service is
required or the assembly has been
submerged in water. During long periods
of trailer towing with outside temperatures
above 70°F (21°C) and at wide-open
throttle for long periods above 45 mph
(72 km/h), change non-synthetic rear axle
fluid every 3000 mi (4,800 km) or three
months, whichever comes first. This
interval can be waived if the axle is filled
with 75W140 synthetic gear fluid meeting
Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A; GL-5
or equivalent. Add friction modifier XL-3
EST-M2C118-A or equivalent for complete
refill of Traction-Lok rear axles. See
Capacities and Specifications (page
265)."

So what fluid is the right fluid for normal non-towing use?

 

[stockrex]

Truck, bro,
I use amsoil's site to look up vehicle to figure out what I need.

https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-...ck/2016/ford-trucks/transit-350/3-5l-6-cyl-engine-code-g-99g-g-turbo/us-volume/

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/severe-gear-75w-90/?code=svgqt-ea


Here is what amsoil adds:
AMSOIL Severe Gear is compatible with most limited-slip differentials. If limited-slip differential chatter occurs, add AMSOIL Slip Lock® friction modifier additive.

 

[Truck]

I'm just going to use Valvoline full synthetic 75w140 for $12.99 a quart. Quart, 2 pints, 32 ounces... the imperial system is so dumb. Anyway, with the Valvoline they designed it to run without the additional friction modifier. I'll let y'all know.

 

[Bez]

I'm just going to use Valvoline full synthetic 75w140 for $12.99 a quart. Quart, 2 pints, 32 ounces... the imperial system is so dumb. Anyway, with the Valvoline they designed it to run without the additional friction modifier. I'll let y'all know.

Yes please update us when done. Thanks Truck.

 

[hammerdown]

The Lucas Oil 75w 140 doesn't require an additional friction modifier either. Fancy diff cover ordered.

 

[stockrex]

I'm just going to use Valvoline full synthetic 75w140 for $12.99 a quart. Quart, 2 pints, 32 ounces... the imperial system is so dumb. Anyway, with the Valvoline they designed it to run without the additional friction modifier. I'll let y'all know.

Sounds good!

Pepboys online has 20% off coupon with free shipping $50 and over, it that helps any.

 

[brittles]

Not necessarily- It can also leak oil out the wheel seals so it does need to be checked occasionally.

Guess I better check mine. I recently had the left rear axle seal fail and it was fixed under warranty.

What do you think the odds are of the Ford mechanic topping off my differential fluid? 5%? 20%?

Probably 0%

 

[Truck]

Ya well I didn't realize these pics were so overexposed. My phone camera sucks.

Anyway, get under there with a 13mm deep socket and undo all the bolts. I used an air wrench and it was all like... zip zip zip zipzipizpzipziip

Screwdriver and tapped at the flange provided. Keep one bolt up top so things don't fly around and make a mess.

Spray the old gasket material with brake clean and then razor blade it away. Do the brake clean first it really eats at the gasket material. I also had a durable scrubbie. I could have cleaned it better but I bet it doesn't leak.

I soaked up all the oil in the bottom with paper towels and wiped out the bottom. Gross.

Really my diff oil didn't look bad. The teeth all look good. My vehicle has the towing package but has never towed anything. It has been around 7500 to 7800 lbs most of it's life. In my build 3.0 I am hoping it's less but we will see.

 

[elmo40]

I ordered this pan: aFe Power 46-70152 (+1 quart over stock. Notice the sight glass AND dipstick)
AMSOIL(r) SVG 75w90 all the way for me! Friction modifier is 'optional' with it (As many stated with other synthetic gear oils). I do have the LS rear-end so I will be adding the modifier. Not needed if you don't have an LS rear ;-)

I also ordered this transmission pan: aFe Power:46-70172 (+7 quarts over stock!!) I'll check for crossbar clearance first.
AMSOIL(r) ATL for that.

Any time you can provide more fluid in a system, that system will last longer (plus run cooler as there is more volume to heat up AND more liquid in contact with cooling fins)

My engine oil gets changed every 25,000Km with AMSOIL(r) ALM 5w20 in Summer and ASM 0w20 in Winter.

With only ~40,000km on my Aug '17 received van, I will be swapping that rear diff cover this Summer.

 

[hammerdown]

I ordered this pan: aFe Power 46-70152 (+1 quart over stock. Notice the sight glass AND dipstick)
AMSOIL(r) SVG 75w90 all the way for me! Friction modifier is 'optional' with it (As many stated with other synthetic gear oils). I do have the LS rear-end so I will be adding the modifier. Not needed if you don't have an LS rear ;-)

I also ordered this transmission pan: aFe Power:46-70172 (+7 quarts over stock!!) I'll check for crossbar clearance first.
AMSOIL(r) ATL for that.

Any time you can provide more fluid in a system, that system will last longer (plus run cooler as there is more volume to heat up AND more liquid in contact with cooling fins)

My engine oil gets changed every 25,000Km with AMSOIL(r) ALM 5w20 in Summer and ASM 0w20 in Winter.

With only ~40,000km on my Aug '17 received van, I will be swapping that rear diff cover this Summer.

Oh god, I hope that engine oil interval is a typo. You mean 2500 kms, right? Let us know how much clearance you have at the cross member with that deep transmission pan.

 

[Budsky]

Ya well I didn't realize these pics were so overexposed. My phone camera sucks.

Anyway, get under there with a 13mm deep socket and undo all the bolts. I used an air wrench and it was all like... zip zip zip zipzipizpzipziip

Screwdriver and tapped at the flange provided. Keep one bolt up top so things don't fly around and make a mess.

PIC SNIPPED

Spray the old gasket material with brake clean and then razor blade it away. Do the brake clean first it really eats at the gasket material. I also had a durable scrubbie. I could have cleaned it better but I bet it doesn't leak.

PICS SNIPPED

I soaked up all the oil in the bottom with paper towels and wiped out the bottom. Gross.

Really my diff oil didn't look bad. The teeth all look good. My vehicle has the towing package but has never towed anything. It has been around 7500 to 7800 lbs most of it's life. In my build 3.0 I am hoping it's less but we will see.

PIC SNIPPED

Well- dangit!
Went to change my 2018 diff oil yesterday at 5,000+- miles.

Almost every diff cover I've removed on late model vehicles is glued/sealed on with RTV. Just like Truck's pics above.
The Ford 2018 shop manual also shows it that way.

So I start going around taking bolts out- they are tight- really tight- OMFG- they are red loctited on!
Guess what else the heads are NOT metric! 12mm won't go on, 13mm is too loose. In fact a 12 point 13mm will round them off the red loctite is so good. Turn out to be 1/2" perfect fit to apply the 900 ft lbs (slight exaggeration) of torque to get those little bolts out.

Get a bigger ratchet handle and take all out but one- the top center one.
So being prepared I have my putty knife- to hammer in and break the RTV seal.
Have my drain pan at the ready...
Start loosening the one last top bolt- get it about half way out- and the whole freaking cover pops off!

Pan is not yet under the diff because I was expecting to have to work at getting the cover off

3 qts of gear oil instantly pours out onto my driveway

Ford has changed the design- there is now a thin steel plate between the cover and the diff housing. Incorporated into that plate is a rubber reuseable gasket- no RTV seal used or needed.

Sweet- when changing diff oil- just wish I'd known about it when I started- wouldn't have simulated the Exxon Valdez in my driveway:|

BTW the oil looked great- had very little "glitter" in it. My Toyota FJC diff had a LOT of glitter when I changed it first time around 5k.
There was a lot of slippery black stuff all over everything in the diff though- made me wonder if Ford uses moly in their gear oil.
Mobil 75W-90 went back in.
Don't believe the manual when it says 3 qts either- mine took about 3 1/2.

You've been warned

 

[Eiko]

In fact a 12 point 13mm will round them off the red loctite is so good.

Thanks for the tips. Just one observation - I always use 6 points to minimize chances of rounding, never 12 points. I only use 12 points in the very rare situation where access and ratchet swing room is minimal.

I have been doing a lot of towing. I wonder what my oil will look like.

 

[Budsky]

Yep aware of that.
In the case above I crawled under there with a 12mm, 13mm, and a 14mm so I'd be ready for whichever fit. Didn't look at what # point sockets I'd grabbed, crawled back out with a bolt in hand and found the 1/2 fit better.
I've often wondered why 12 point sockets are so common- It's a socket so it likely is going to be used on a ratchet which often has more index points than the socket will. I will admit Ford sometimes uses 12 point bolts- on my 95 Ranger the rear driveshaft attachment to the pinion is 12 point bolts. You aren't getting those loose with a 6 point for sure.

Those diff cover bolts are weird- the hex is actually tapered a little from top to bottom- that makes tool fit even more critical since you aren't grabbing the whole head. Just an edge of the socket.

A 13 would probably work if they weren't so hard to break loose- but a 1/2 is a better tight fit.


Oh and one other caveat- if you have the rear sway bar you aren't getting a socket on the bottom 3 bolts of the cover. And as I said the red loctite means don't try an open end either! Good box end required.

 

[Eiko]

Yep aware of that.

I will admit Ford sometimes uses 12 point bolts- on my 95 Ranger the rear driveshaft attachment to the pinion is 12 point bolts. You aren't getting those loose with a 6 point for sure.

I figured you did but didn't understand why you used 12 point when so much force was needed.

What I really don't understand the lack of and do need to buy is a set of 6 point combination wrenches. 99% of them for sale are 12 points. 6 point box end is what you'd want to use for the bottom 3 with a sway bar.

Those 12 points on the Ranger driveshaft makes sense. The inverse of the internal "triple square" splined bolts.

The tapering diff cover bolts are weird. I think I'd rather replace them with something that makes more sense. To me anyway. Maybe there's yet another special tapered socket for them?

 

[Budsky]

On the bolts the tapering is very slight but it is there. The heads are also taller than other similar sized bolts.

3 of the bolts spaced around the top are different- they have an integral smaller stud protruding out the top which Ford uses to hold a wire harness that crosses the axle.
Had to use a combo wrench on them too- a deep well socket would have worked but I was tired of crawling out and back under several times...tight fit under there.

I think is a Murphy's law- No matter how many tools I crawl under a vehicle with there will be ONE that I didn't bring with me!

 

[stockrex]

Thanks for the tips. Just one observation - I always use 6 points to minimize chances of rounding, never 12 points. I only use 12 points in the very rare situation where access and ratchet swing room is minimal.

I have been doing a lot of towing. I wonder what my oil will look like.

Eiko is on the money, never use any 12 point sockets for anything car related please.
I am sole member and president of dad's against 12 point sockets club >

 

[Budsky]

Eiko is on the money, never use any 12 point sockets for anything car related please.

Except- as I pointed out Ford DOES use 12 point bolts and nuts in spots.
Nothing wrong with using a 12 point in most applications- unless like the diff bolts they were put in with red (permanent) loctite requiring a huge amount of torque to break loose.
Due to the limited clearance working under there I almost hurt myself on a few of them

BTW I did break loose the bottom 3 with a 12 point gear wrench in 1/2" I think the 13mm would have rounded the heads.