[Breaknwind]

BTW I don't mind the cargo lights. I just don't need them during daylight.
On another note. I can't find the edit for my posts??

 

[AzB]

Since I installed a coach battery for a few other things, like an inverter, I just ran a few wires and a couple switches and put the work lights on thier own coach circuit so they only come on when I need them, stay on when I need them to, and don't run down the main battery.

 

[LbLamboy]

Breakinwind,
2019 here as well. The only factory "kill switch" in my lwb medium roof cargo is on the lower section of the "b" pillar driver's side, rear cargo door. It's simply an off switch, that doesn't kill anything once any doors on the van are opened. When you do, boom! Bright light's right back on. I did the fuse panel, inline fuse, toggle switch to mine and rarely use the factory lighting any more. Just curious about the factory location of your original set up originally was

Reddog and Breaknwind....2019 EWB Med Roof here too...I just need to totally disconnect my LEDs in Cargo area...might add a switch if I'm feeling generous, but probably just want to pull the fuse and forget about mine...do either of you recall which fuse the 2019 uses for the rear cargo LED circuit? I'm tired of having to jump my van after having LEDs on (and totally covered up) while we do our build.

Separately, think I blew my front cabin fuse too...but DO want that one...and I find the manual extremely unhelpful on identifying these fuses...any idea which fuse covers the cabin area light and 12V cigarette lighter chargers?

 

[dustymiller]

For our 2020 Low Roof Passenger van, all the 'cargo' ceiling lights (set into the headliner) have on/off/door switches on the fixture EXCEPT the one above the sliding side door. We removed the two bulbs from this fixture and stuck them in the glove box. Now have all lights off with doors open if desired. To remove those bulbs, pry downward with a trim tool on the fixture's plastic surrounding flange ON THE SIDE THAT FACES THE SLIDING DOOR to avoid breaking plastic tabs.

 

[LbLamboy]

TWIMC - I just pulled F32 from the fuse compartment under the steering wheel and can confirm that it cut power to the rear LED circuit. I have my other cargo LEDs totally covered and can't be 100% sure that it killed them too, but I have to believe the rear and other cargo area LEDs are on the same fuse, and suspect it got them all. We have a wood roof installed with other LEDs now, and simply just wanted to kill the power to the factory LEDs (and waited too late to do it any other way easily), for when we have the doors opening and closing a lot throughout the day.

 

[Xprmntl]

Thank you @HarleyHauler for the detailed pictures. We copied your implementation. What do we owe you, you saved us a bunch of time. FWIW One nuance is that someday we plan to move the control switch up to the dash above the factory defrost switch using Hein's rocker switch. So we drilled the current switch hole in the plastic lip which retains the plastic cover under the steering column. The thought being that when we move the switch and put the plastic cover back on there won't be an 'aftermarket' hole. Thank you and take care

For a plug-and-play option, Blue Ox (Part BX88271) makes a pre-wired bypass switch which is designed for flat towing applications (keeps the battery from being drained when the key is switched to unlock steering), but works for us, too.
A bit spendy at $50, but only real labor is drilling the switch hole, and avoids having spare parts to clutter or throw away like the extra socket connectors in a kit Amazon.com: Blue Ox BX88271 ATM Fuse Bypass Switch with Short Lead: Automotive
If one has more time than money, here's a $25 option, homemade from the Czech Rep: Car fuse switch (bypass) standard, mini, micro fuse | eBay

 

[Robert24b]

I was originally going to add a switch to the fuse, but installed a SPDT on/off/on switch by the slider entrance above the passenger seatbelt.
In the wire loom along the top driver side wall, the white/blue stripe wire is the switched ground for the cab lights; they receive a constant positive. I pulled a couple of the cab lights and they are all wired with the same markings, which split into forward and rear wires where the wires to the forward cab lights come out. I cut the WH/blu wire forward of the split, ran two wires to the switch by the slider (one SEND from cab side of wiring, the other RETURN to cargo side of wiring from center post on my switch. I added a constant ground to the other other post on my switch. I can have the cargo lights operate normally, have them off all the time, or on as needed. About 45 minutes of work; less than a beer.

Much like Bill did, I added a switch on the passenger pillar just inside the slide door but my switch has the same "momentary" functionality as the factory one. Just ran a pair of wires over to the factory switch at the back doors and spliced. Now I can turn the light off/on at will. Nice to leave the side door open without the light on.

 

[surly Bill]

I'm wondering what you mean by "momentary". Usually a momentary switch is either on or off only while you are holding the switch; they do not stay in the switched position when you let go. That doesn't seem like a functional way to go about the cargo area lights, because one of your hands will be tied up pressing the switch. Did you mean a switch that is depressed to click "on", stays there, and pressed again will click "off"? I use normally closed momentary switches on my elec guitars, for a manual cut in/out effect for extra pizzazz on some Adrian Belew style solo stuff.

 

[Robert24b]

I'm wondering what you mean by "momentary". Usually a momentary switch is either on or off only while you are holding the switch; they do not stay in the switched position when you let go. That doesn't seem like a functional way to go about the cargo area lights, because one of your hands will be tied up pressing the switch. Did you mean a switch that is depressed to click "on", stays there, and pressed again will click "off"? I use normally closed momentary switches on my elec guitars, for a manual cut in/out effect for extra pizzazz on some Adrian Belew style solo stuff.

Momentary is just like the factory switch in the back of the van. Makes a connection when you push it basically completing a connection when pressed.
Not a rocker style that stays in the on or off position.

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[Covid van de Mic]

Momentary is just like the factory switch in the back of the van. Makes a connection when you push it basically completing a connection when pressed.

You can certainly get a rocker style switch that is momentary (think window up/down switch).

But for others benefit, all "momentary" means is it is closed (or perhaps open) during the moment it is pressed/pulled.

 

[Robert24b]

You can certainly get a rocker style switch that is momentary (think window up/down switch).

But for others benefit, all "momentary" means is it is closed (or perhaps open) during the moment it is pressed/pulled.

Yes ^^this^^. Thanks for simplifying it for others.

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[surly Bill]

Yes ^^this^^. Thanks for simplifying it for others.

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So, you can only turn on your cargo lights by holding the switch down? Not judging or looking sternly down my nose, just wondering if that's what's going on with this mod.

 

[Robert24b]

So, you can only turn on your cargo lights by holding the switch down? Not judging or looking sternly down my nose, just wondering if that's what's going on with this mod.

Nope. I depress the button and the lights come on. Depress again and they turn off. Wash, rinse, repeat. Works EXACTLY like factory cargo light button in the rear but it's located at the slider door.
NOW, I will say, I only have the allotted 30 minutes before it needs to be reset but I can live w that.

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[surly Bill]

Nope. I depress the button and the lights come on. Depress again and they turn off. Wash, rinse, repeat. Works EXACTLY like factory cargo light button in the rear but it's located at the slider door.
NOW, I will say, I only have the allotted 30 minutes before it needs to be reset but I can live w that.

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Ok, so it's not an actual momentary switch, it's a pushbutton click on/off switch. That clears it up for me!

 

[Robert24b]

Ok, so it's not an actual momentary switch, it's a pushbutton click on/off switch. That clears it up for me!
View attachment 147907

LOL, no. It IS an actual momentary switch. It's spring loaded so it "un-presses" when released. It's actually for an 80's video game console. Remember when you needed to press the button to fire? Remember how it bounced back up so you could fire again? It has 2 terminals and essentially shorts to ground or completes a circuit when pressed.
It has the EXACT same functionality as the factory rear barn door cargo light on/off switch. Electronically, the EXACT same as the factory switch. Hope that clears it up.
I guess the transit looks for a completed circuit of some sort when the rear cargo light button is pressed in order for it to turn on/off the light. There is no latching or "rocking".
I just tied into the factory wiring at the factory button and it operates the same.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYTDYHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Y5KB2QGWYPSGV650T8CZ

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