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I can't remember exact details, so no diagrams, but I installed a switch at rear edge of the slider, right at edge of bed. Double throw with center-off. I think it is double pole too...I think, so DPDT. One side "on" goes to aux battery fuse block. The other side "on"goes to the factory power feed (blue & white? But also the "other" power feed: assume one positive, one negative ). That meant running wires from the switch all the way across the van (along roof in my case) to the blue/white (if you say so) factory feed. The middle wire connectors on the switch run to the lights, plus there is a dimmer inline. So if I recall correctly, there are 4 wire strands running across the roof rib. 2 to the lights themselves, and 2 to the factory power source. There are 6 connectors on the switch so in addition to these 4 wires, the other 2 go to the aux battery, as mentioned.

So, center position is full off (but switch is handy to bed and door). "Down - on" ties it to the factory source, so it comes on when door opened, and stays on for up to 20 minutes or so, as normal. Turns off when doors locked, as normal. "Up - on" ties it to the aux battery, so it's on for as long as I want. Again, easy to control from bed or door.

Also separated the rear LED's to their own circuit. Have another switch (SPDT) center off next to the other switch. This is wired in a "three-way" fashion to a 3rd switch near the rear door, but easily accessible to the rear end of the bed. This circuit is tied only to the aux battery, but can be turned on from either door, or either end of the bed. Again, there's a 2nd dimmer to conserve power, and reduce the ultra-brightness. The dimmers have a remote; pairing was required.

The factory LEDs draw more power than you might think, but dimmer helps. My bed platform is over my "garage" and blocks light from a ceiling-mounted light (even at the rear pillars) so I will add a 3rd lighting circuit with a simple on-off switch at the rear door connecting a light under the platform to the aux battery only. Neither rear light comes automatically on when the rear doors are opened. A manual turn on or off effort is required.

I'm not near the van at the moment, so can't check, but I think opening the rear doors lights the forward LEDs if their switch is set to factory source.

All in all, this concept does everything I want.
 
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Thank you @HarleyHauler for the detailed pictures. We copied your implementation. What do we owe you, you saved us a bunch of time. FWIW One nuance is that _someday_ we plan to move the control switch up to the dash above the factory defrost switch using Hein's rocker switch. So we drilled the current switch hole in the plastic lip which retains the plastic cover under the steering column. The thought being that when we move the switch and put the plastic cover back on there won't be an 'aftermarket' hole. Thank you and take care
 

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For those people on here that are still looking for a simple solution to the Transit cargo area lights that stay on for an extended period when any door is open, and that have no way to turn them off like the cab dome light has…here is the solution that I came up with.
I didn’t want to have to open up the main trunk of wires going into the cargo area to try to find the cargo area light wiring to put a switch in the cargo area. I wasn’t comfortable with messing with those wires back there…too many wires to make a mistake with!


While changing out my cargo area LED’s, I accidently touched one of the light socket contacts to the van’s metal framing, and blew the cargo area light fuse. So, getting into owner’s manual, and fuse box under the dash, to the right side of the steering wheel, I discover that there is a different fuse for the cargo area lights, and the cab area dome/map lights. So, a light comes on in my head….pardon the pun!...Why not put a simple little switch right there near the fuse box for the cargo area lights? So I got the parts as shown in my pictures, with a little bit of 16g wiring and made a fusible linked switch from my fuse box to little rocker switch right there near my fuse box. I looked into putting it more up on the dash, but it looked too difficult to get it into the dash and run the wires…my big hands couldn’t reach up much higher in the dash, and I am fine with it right where it is. I hardly ever even have that switch on, because I work out of my van during the day, and don’t need those lights burning during the day when I have the doors open.


The fuse socket connector kit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TCXOTW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The mini fuse link…from Walmart…yes Walmart! The auto parts stores only carried a 12g fuse link, which was a heavier wire than needed.
The rocker switch (came in a 2 pack only) from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1L7P3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
16 gauge wire with .25 connectors and barrel splice connector came from an electrician friend.


And BTW, the Amazon LED’s I got are the brightest, LED’s I have ever seen…they light up the cargo area like daylight at night! …LUYED 33smd error free LED’s…link below.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177C3AZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I just added a switch to our new yeti mobile (our dog's name is yeti):

hooked up to the cargo light #32 fuse
 
Quick question for the no ground "f32 modification" folk's out there. Does this tweak affect the cab dome/reading lights? All the owners manual says is f32 fuse is "interior lighting" patiently awaiting the parts to come in the mail to do the "f32"

Thanks!
 
Why not put a simple little switch right there near the fuse box for the cargo area lights? So I got the parts as shown in my pictures, with a little bit of 16g wiring and made a fusible linked switch from my fuse box to little rocker switch right there near my fuse box. I looked into putting it more up on the dash, but it looked too difficult to get it into the dash and run the wires…my big hands couldn’t reach up much higher in the dash, and I am fine with it right where it is. I hardly ever even have that switch on, because I work out of my van during the day, and don’t need those lights burning during the day when I have the doors open.
Thanks @HarleyHauler . This was really easy and worked like a champ and all of the parts were available online at Amazon. I wish I had found this earlier.

Note: Fuse #32 is actually a mini-fuse when you are buying your fuse socket connector.
 

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I have the kill switch at the left rear of my 2019. I use the sliding door the most, so I have to climb over my bike or go around back and open the back doors to get to it. I'd like to move it but I have a few weekends of bike(3) maintenance to finish. I'd like to put it where I can reach it from the right rear door and the sliding door.
 
It's doable. You would probably have to cut into your factory wiring harness to make it happen. For me 100,000 mile warranty. Ain't gonna' happen'. The basic "fuse kill switch" is pretty easy to make go bye, bye if the need arises. It's pretty handy for me this far. There's some folks that have tapped into the system.
 
For those people on here that are still looking for a simple solution to the Transit cargo area lights that stay on for an extended period when any door is open, and that have no way to turn them off like the cab dome light has…here is the solution that I came up with.

I didn’t want to have to open up the main trunk of wires going into the cargo area to try to find the cargo area light wiring to put a switch in the cargo area. I wasn’t comfortable with messing with those wires back there…too many wires to make a mistake with!

The fuse socket connector kit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TCXOTW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The mini fuse link…from Walmart…yes Walmart! The auto parts stores only carried a 12g fuse link, which was a heavier wire than needed.
The rocker switch (came in a 2 pack only) from Amazon: Amazon.com: AESTHING Handmade Preserved Fresh Flower Rose, Upscale Immortal Flowers, Gifts Women, Her, Sister, Girls, Aunt, Mother's Day,Valentine's Day, Anniversary, Birthday, Wedding (Red): Automotive
16 gauge wire with .25 connectors and barrel splice connector came from an electrician friend.
I just finished doing (basically) this mod to our Transit. I used the fuse socket connector switch linked above (thanks for the link!), a Blue Sea inline fuse holder I already had, and one of Hein's/DIY Van's dashboard switch adapters/switches. I'm definitely looking forward to being able to leave the interior/cargo lights off most of the time.

Craig
 
I did mine years ago now but looking at this thread reminded me to this day I couldn’t be happier.

Wish I’d done it sooner to be honest would have made the build easier to not fight that timer.


I’ve got my lights separate , couple of the stock LED’s as loading lights above the rear door by the roof fan and then 8 other LED lights set up on a controllable dimmer.

I’ve got all the lights , fan , stereo , inverter and 12 volt plugs running off a separate set of batteries so there is no threat of any drain on the Vans dual AGM’s.
 
If you're just wanting to turn off the rear cargo lights it's so easy to add a switch to the positive feed at F32 in the Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel. Added the dash mounted switch in less than five minutes without cutting wires or drilling holes. Can change everything back to stock even quicker.
For us electrically challenged can you post a picture of this little adaptation you made to the fuse..thanks Deadhead,
 
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Hey guys..so I got the fuse #32 mini inline fuse adapter to a switch and can turn the cargo lights on and off..THANKS..

BUT..how come the LED in the 4 prong switch does not light up? Any ideas for us electrically challenged? I currently have the 2 wires from the inline fuse going to the top and bottom prong on one side of the 4 prong LED switch from Hein...any help is appreciated
 
discover that there is a different fuse for the cargo area lights, and the cab area dome/map lights.
Hi there I’m very new here. I’ve had my van only a few weeks.
And I sure dislike those automatic cargo lights, both for the starter battery drain and sometimes I don’t want bright lights at night.
However, I’m not electrically savvy and won’t be modifying the vans wiring at this time. Is there any downside to simply pulling the fuse.

I’ll follow with an intro post and build thread soon.
 
Hi there I’m very new here. I’ve had my van only a few weeks.
And I sure dislike those automatic cargo lights, both for the starter battery drain and sometimes I don’t want bright lights at night.
However, I’m not electrically savvy and won’t be modifying the vans wiring at this time. Is there any downside to simply pulling the fuse.

I’ll follow with an intro post and build thread soon.
Another choice is to just unplug the cargo area OEM lights. On my 2015 148" WB there are two disconnects above the rear doors for each rear light and one in the loom along the driver side wall for the two center lights. I did that and reused the four lights but powered then from the house battery.
 
Hi there I’m very new here. I’ve had my van only a few weeks.
And I sure dislike those automatic cargo lights, both for the starter battery drain and sometimes I don’t want bright lights at night.
However, I’m not electrically savvy and won’t be modifying the vans wiring at this time. Is there any downside to simply pulling the fuse.

I’ll follow with an intro post and build thread soon.
I don't know what year it started but my 2019 has a kill switch that I moved to the right side so I can reach it when I open the sliding door. comes in very handy. What year is yours?
 
My rear doors lighting control is similar to what Impatient did.

One SPDT toggle switch
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fed from house power (switch up) and OEM control power (switch down), middle position OFF, switching LED Puck Lights.
138683


When the door opens, the OEM cargo light circuit is energized, puck lights are energized as desired, and remain ON until the OEM time-out control switches OFF. With the House Light Circuit energized, the puck lights can be energized without timing-out.

I found the OEM grab handles to be a good fit for my build-out. I bought three from Ebay, one installed aft of the slider door and the others each side of the rear doors.
 
Breakinwind,
2019 here as well. The only factory "kill switch" in my lwb medium roof cargo is on the lower section of the "b" pillar driver's side, rear cargo door. It's simply an off switch, that doesn't kill anything once any doors on the van are opened. When you do, boom! Bright light's right back on. I did the fuse panel, inline fuse, toggle switch to mine and rarely use the factory lighting any more. Just curious about the factory location of your original set up originally was
 
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