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Cargo Area Lighting & Switch

84K views 108 replies 52 participants last post by  alpinelakes 
#1 ·
For those people on here that are still looking for a simple solution to the Transit cargo area lights that stay on for an extended period when any door is open, and that have no way to turn them off like the cab dome light has…here is the solution that I came up with.
I didn’t want to have to open up the main trunk of wires going into the cargo area to try to find the cargo area light wiring to put a switch in the cargo area. I wasn’t comfortable with messing with those wires back there…too many wires to make a mistake with!


While changing out my cargo area LED’s, I accidently touched one of the light socket contacts to the van’s metal framing, and blew the cargo area light fuse. So, getting into owner’s manual, and fuse box under the dash, to the right side of the steering wheel, I discover that there is a different fuse for the cargo area lights, and the cab area dome/map lights. So, a light comes on in my head….pardon the pun!...Why not put a simple little switch right there near the fuse box for the cargo area lights? So I got the parts as shown in my pictures, with a little bit of 16g wiring and made a fusible linked switch from my fuse box to little rocker switch right there near my fuse box. I looked into putting it more up on the dash, but it looked too difficult to get it into the dash and run the wires…my big hands couldn’t reach up much higher in the dash, and I am fine with it right where it is. I hardly ever even have that switch on, because I work out of my van during the day, and don’t need those lights burning during the day when I have the doors open.


The fuse socket connector kit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TCXOTW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The mini fuse link…from Walmart…yes Walmart! The auto parts stores only carried a 12g fuse link, which was a heavier wire than needed.
The rocker switch (came in a 2 pack only) from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1L7P3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
16 gauge wire with .25 connectors and barrel splice connector came from an electrician friend.


And BTW, the Amazon LED’s I got are the brightest, LED’s I have ever seen…they light up the cargo area like daylight at night! …LUYED 33smd error free LED’s…link below.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177C3AZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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#3 ·
I was originally going to add a switch to the fuse, but installed a SPDT on/off/on switch by the slider entrance above the passenger seatbelt.
In the wire loom along the top driver side wall, the white/blue stripe wire is the switched ground for the cab lights; they receive a constant positive. I pulled a couple of the cab lights and they are all wired with the same markings, which split into forward and rear wires where the wires to the forward cab lights come out. I cut the WH/blu wire forward of the split, ran two wires to the switch by the slider (one SEND from cab side of wiring, the other RETURN to cargo side of wiring from center post on my switch. I added a constant ground to the other other post on my switch. I can have the cargo lights operate normally, have them off all the time, or on as needed. About 45 minutes of work; less than a beer.
 

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#13 ·
Hi Surly Bill - can you provide any more details about this. I am adding two more rows of factory lights in two of the ceiling ribs and am debating whether or not to wire those independently with a switch and directly to the battery or do something like you did. can you show pics of where you added the SEND and RETURN. with any SPDT switch work? How did you ground it?

Appreciate your help! Love the look of your switch set up and accessibility.
 
#6 ·
One beer per hour is the accepted rate of consumption for undercover surveillance. I was keeping my eye on the wiring.
 
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#8 ·
Yes, they shut off, but there are a couple different timers for different scenarios. The longest is 20 minutes, and that's when you open a door and leave it open. They turn off in a short amount of time if you open a door and then close it. They shut off almost immediately if you lock the doors with the remote.

A lot of people don't want their lights staying on for 20 minutes as they get stuff in or out of the van.
 
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#11 ·
I bought a switch from Hein at DIYvan.com that fits perfectly in the dash , then ran a couple wires down to the fuse block ( I think it's f35). Also added and inline fuse holder. Love be NV able to shut those annoying lights off when I don't need them, which is most of the time. Simple mod.


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#12 ·
Just added the switch inline on the blue/white wire on the loom. Drilled a hole in the plastic just behind the driver for the switch. Ill probably re-rout all the wires eventually through the panels in the van but this will work for now. First mod on the new van, the paint is on the canvas! I was even able to clip the plastic back in place so I guess I didn't break too many clips..
 
#15 ·
I'll butt in because I'm procrastinating rather do what I'm supposed to be doing. FWIW. Jaross' description sounds fairly close to what Surly did. Jaross doesn't mention a ground while Surly does.

The most basic circuit I'm thinking is the equivalent of cutting the blue/white wire, having one end in each hand, and then touching them together when you want lights and then pulling them away when you when them off. An SPST switch. Cut the blue/white wire. One end (doesn't matter which) connects to one terminal of the switch. The other end of the wire connects to the other terminal. That sounds like Jaross.

Surly is a bit more complicated and his switch has permanently on, permanently off, or controlled by the van's timer positions.(I need to learn a CAD program. The drawing is embarrassing - MS Paint). Let's see if this is what Surly actually did. The description was a bit confusing.
 

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#18 ·
I appreciate the insight. I like Surly's set up since it has the ability to default to the van's timer settings as well. But if it is more difficult or higher margin for error then Id rather default to simpler.

Here is my idea, add 4 more of the stock cargo lights in the two ceiling ribs (2 in each rib). I will put LEDs in all the cargo lights and the map lights (o/h cab light).

I am debating whether or not to wire the two added rows in with the factory harness and doing a Surly Bill style switch -- OR -- wire them separately and have them work independently using a spst switch and power directly from the battery.

If I went with the latter option, how many LEDs are ok to run in one string? The hot set up would be for me to have three rows of LEDs (a total of 6 lights) on the switch. These three rows would illuminate the van in the evenings/night when its dark outside. I don't think there is much concern about running the batteries dead by using these lights for 2-3 hours at a time but I will find out hahaha.

The rear cargo lights and map lights would provide adequate lighting when unlocking at night and if I need more light I could turn the switch to get more light.
 
#20 ·
A separate, independent lighting system in addition to the factory system would be ideal, then you can have it both ways. But you'd still want to be able to switch the factory system off. I'm putting a separate system on my cabinets, the overheads aren't very pleasant for camping use.
 
#25 ·
What I want to do is keep the OEM LEDs for the brightness when needed. Add red LEDs for night use. Audi's (again) used to have all switches with red LEDs and two overhead red LEDs that gave just enough light so you could still see things inside the car.
 
#26 ·
In the Transit, the controlling wire for the cargo lights is the negative, not the positive.
The negative (ground) is the one that completes the circuit when the doors are opened or the switch above the dash is operated. This may be puzzling to people with a little knowledge of home electrical systems. And if you're like me and were testing wires looking for the ones controlling the lights by having one lead on the chassis and the other on the wires looking for the positive, you'd be pulling your hair out. I started at the light fixture and checked the wires, and noted their color coding. Discovered that the negative (ground) was the one being affected by the door switches, not the positive, which was constant (but it is on a timer as well, maybe 30 minutes).

That's why I was able to split the controlling wire and add a wire to permanent ground to make an on-off-factory selector switch.

Splitting the positive wire to the lights would not allow the on setting, just automatic factory settings, or off. Unless you added a wire to a permanent positive (hot) source, like the battery, to an on-off-on switch. Easier to split and wire the controlling negative wire.

Also, I put the switch at the slider because that's the door I use the most, even for getting in and out. What it negates is control of the cargo lights from the overhead switch above the dash if it is in the "off" position; they won't turn on with the overhead light switch.
 
#27 · (Edited)
For those people on here that are still looking for a simple solution to the Transit cargo area lights that stay on for an extended period when any door is open, and that have no way to turn them off like the cab dome light has…here is the solution that I came up with.
I didn’t want to have to open up the main trunk of wires going into the cargo area to try to find the cargo area light wiring to put a switch in the cargo area. I wasn’t comfortable with messing with those wires back there…too many wires to make a mistake with!


While changing out my cargo area LED’s, I accidently touched one of the light socket contacts to the van’s metal framing, and blew the cargo area light fuse. So, getting into owner’s manual, and fuse box under the dash, to the right side of the steering wheel, I discover that there is a different fuse for the cargo area lights, and the cab area dome/map lights. So, a light comes on in my head….pardon the pun!...Why not put a simple little switch right there near the fuse box for the cargo area lights? So I got the parts as shown in my pictures, with a little bit of 16g wiring and made a fusible linked switch from my fuse box to little rocker switch right there near my fuse box. I looked into putting it more up on the dash, but it looked too difficult to get it into the dash and run the wires…my big hands couldn’t reach up much higher in the dash, and I am fine with it right where it is. I hardly ever even have that switch on, because I work out of my van during the day, and don’t need those lights burning during the day when I have the doors open.
I bought a switch from Hein at DIYvan.com that fits perfectly in the dash , then ran a couple wires down to the fuse block ( I think it's f35). Also added and inline fuse holder. Love be NV able to shut those annoying lights off when I don't need them, which is most of the time. Simple mod.
If you're just wanting to turn off the rear cargo lights it's so easy to add a switch to the positive feed at F32 in the Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel. Added the dash mounted switch in less than five minutes without cutting wires or drilling holes. Can change everything back to stock even quicker.
 
#31 ·
Shutting cargo lights off with doors open

2015 Transit Connect:
we hated the idea that the lights stay on with the doors open. This would have been a deal breaker as we use it for dog competitions and the doors have to stay open.

On a whim, we hit the high beam paddle twice and they all shut off. Seems to work, but you still have to open the drivers door after opening the tailgate doors. The two cargo lights stay on. There must be a better way without installing switches.
 
#32 ·
I put 4 switches on the stock lights and wired
them to house battery -

used regular 110v light switches mounted close to ceiling

to switch lever used heat shrink to attach a wood dowel

wood is extension to switch to make much easier
to reach - it hangs down - down is off

can turn on roof light from bed
 
#34 ·
The split into forward and rear wires? It's about at the area between the first ceiling crossmember and the cab. Just follow the wire back from the first crossmember overhead lights toward the front of the cab. Look for where there is only one WH/blu wire instead of 2 or 3(?). There should be a "lump" where they splice the wires together. You want to split it between the cab and that lump.
 
#37 ·
I have had my new van for about six weeks. So far no trouble with the lights on in the interior. They shut off after a while when I am on a job and leave the doors open. Only problem I am having so far with the lights is they shut off, it’s getting dark around 4-430 in the day. I find I have to shut the slider and open it again, then the lights come on and I can look for what ever parts I was in need of.
No dead battery or starting troubles just yet.
I think I’ll wait to see how I do. If it gets to the point I have to shut them off I will wire up a separate switch like has been described in other posts.

Miketheplumber61
 
#38 ·
If you look at the mullion on the left side of the slider opening, you will see the button, no need to open and close, just push the button.

I had my battery die at a 2 day job close to home (short drive time minimal charging) , those AGM batteries suck. They used to die real easy in my Sprinter as well.
 
#41 · (Edited)
I can't remember exact details, so no diagrams, but I installed a switch at rear edge of the slider, right at edge of bed. Double throw with center-off. I think it is double pole too...I think, so DPDT. One side "on" goes to aux battery fuse block. The other side "on"goes to the factory power feed (blue & white? But also the "other" power feed: assume one positive, one negative ). That meant running wires from the switch all the way across the van (along roof in my case) to the blue/white (if you say so) factory feed. The middle wire connectors on the switch run to the lights, plus there is a dimmer inline. So if I recall correctly, there are 4 wire strands running across the roof rib. 2 to the lights themselves, and 2 to the factory power source. There are 6 connectors on the switch so in addition to these 4 wires, the other 2 go to the aux battery, as mentioned.

So, center position is full off (but switch is handy to bed and door). "Down - on" ties it to the factory source, so it comes on when door opened, and stays on for up to 20 minutes or so, as normal. Turns off when doors locked, as normal. "Up - on" ties it to the aux battery, so it's on for as long as I want. Again, easy to control from bed or door.

Also separated the rear LED's to their own circuit. Have another switch (SPDT) center off next to the other switch. This is wired in a "three-way" fashion to a 3rd switch near the rear door, but easily accessible to the rear end of the bed. This circuit is tied only to the aux battery, but can be turned on from either door, or either end of the bed. Again, there's a 2nd dimmer to conserve power, and reduce the ultra-brightness. The dimmers have a remote; pairing was required.

The factory LEDs draw more power than you might think, but dimmer helps. My bed platform is over my "garage" and blocks light from a ceiling-mounted light (even at the rear pillars) so I will add a 3rd lighting circuit with a simple on-off switch at the rear door connecting a light under the platform to the aux battery only. Neither rear light comes automatically on when the rear doors are opened. A manual turn on or off effort is required.

I'm not near the van at the moment, so can't check, but I think opening the rear doors lights the forward LEDs if their switch is set to factory source.

All in all, this concept does everything I want.
 
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#43 ·
Thank you @HarleyHauler for the detailed pictures. We copied your implementation. What do we owe you, you saved us a bunch of time. FWIW One nuance is that _someday_ we plan to move the control switch up to the dash above the factory defrost switch using Hein's rocker switch. So we drilled the current switch hole in the plastic lip which retains the plastic cover under the steering column. The thought being that when we move the switch and put the plastic cover back on there won't be an 'aftermarket' hole. Thank you and take care
 

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#66 ·
Thank you @HarleyHauler for the detailed pictures. We copied your implementation. What do we owe you, you saved us a bunch of time. FWIW One nuance is that someday we plan to move the control switch up to the dash above the factory defrost switch using Hein's rocker switch. So we drilled the current switch hole in the plastic lip which retains the plastic cover under the steering column. The thought being that when we move the switch and put the plastic cover back on there won't be an 'aftermarket' hole. Thank you and take care
For a plug-and-play option, Blue Ox (Part BX88271) makes a pre-wired bypass switch which is designed for flat towing applications (keeps the battery from being drained when the key is switched to unlock steering), but works for us, too.
A bit spendy at $50, but only real labor is drilling the switch hole, and avoids having spare parts to clutter or throw away like the extra socket connectors in a kit Amazon.com: Blue Ox BX88271 ATM Fuse Bypass Switch with Short Lead: Automotive
If one has more time than money, here's a $25 option, homemade from the Czech Rep: Car fuse switch (bypass) standard, mini, micro fuse | eBay
 
#44 ·
For those people on here that are still looking for a simple solution to the Transit cargo area lights that stay on for an extended period when any door is open, and that have no way to turn them off like the cab dome light has…here is the solution that I came up with.
I didn’t want to have to open up the main trunk of wires going into the cargo area to try to find the cargo area light wiring to put a switch in the cargo area. I wasn’t comfortable with messing with those wires back there…too many wires to make a mistake with!


While changing out my cargo area LED’s, I accidently touched one of the light socket contacts to the van’s metal framing, and blew the cargo area light fuse. So, getting into owner’s manual, and fuse box under the dash, to the right side of the steering wheel, I discover that there is a different fuse for the cargo area lights, and the cab area dome/map lights. So, a light comes on in my head….pardon the pun!...Why not put a simple little switch right there near the fuse box for the cargo area lights? So I got the parts as shown in my pictures, with a little bit of 16g wiring and made a fusible linked switch from my fuse box to little rocker switch right there near my fuse box. I looked into putting it more up on the dash, but it looked too difficult to get it into the dash and run the wires…my big hands couldn’t reach up much higher in the dash, and I am fine with it right where it is. I hardly ever even have that switch on, because I work out of my van during the day, and don’t need those lights burning during the day when I have the doors open.


The fuse socket connector kit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TCXOTW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The mini fuse link…from Walmart…yes Walmart! The auto parts stores only carried a 12g fuse link, which was a heavier wire than needed.
The rocker switch (came in a 2 pack only) from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1L7P3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
16 gauge wire with .25 connectors and barrel splice connector came from an electrician friend.


And BTW, the Amazon LED’s I got are the brightest, LED’s I have ever seen…they light up the cargo area like daylight at night! …LUYED 33smd error free LED’s…link below.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177C3AZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I just added a switch to our new yeti mobile (our dog's name is yeti):

hooked up to the cargo light #32 fuse
 
#46 · (Edited)
Why not put a simple little switch right there near the fuse box for the cargo area lights? So I got the parts as shown in my pictures, with a little bit of 16g wiring and made a fusible linked switch from my fuse box to little rocker switch right there near my fuse box. I looked into putting it more up on the dash, but it looked too difficult to get it into the dash and run the wires…my big hands couldn’t reach up much higher in the dash, and I am fine with it right where it is. I hardly ever even have that switch on, because I work out of my van during the day, and don’t need those lights burning during the day when I have the doors open.
Thanks @HarleyHauler . This was really easy and worked like a champ and all of the parts were available online at Amazon. I wish I had found this earlier.

Note: Fuse #32 is actually a mini-fuse when you are buying your fuse socket connector.
 

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