Alright it's official my van build will begin in a few months but that means my planning starts now. At this point I'm down to a framing material decision between 8020 and Unistrut. After that's decided I can start my 3D modeling!

Soo, what's the verdict? I see a lot of builds from 8020 but that stuff is expensive (like $40 for a 8 foot 15 series extrusion) and Unistrut seems a bit more manageable financially ($20 for a 10 foot piece of 14 gauge b series).

Would appreciate any experience, input and insight you might offer!

Thanks in advance

There are multiple ways to reduce the cost of using 80/20.

1. Find a local supplier to eliminate the shipping costs.
2. Price competitive interchangeable brands. I used T-Slots.
3. Avoid the expensive connectors. Make your own out of flats and angles.
4. Buy the fasteners from an industrial supply house.
5. Use a chop saw to cut the extrusions.
6. Buy the lightest extrusions.
7. Use economy nuts instead of expensive nuts.
8. Use carriage bolts.

80/20 style extrusions will always be more expensive than Unistrut but the finished conversion will look better IMO

Using 80/20 | Orton Travel Transit

www.ortontransit.info

 

I am using 80/20 and I think it looks a lot nicer.

 

I think I'm partial to the look of the unistrut actually. But thanks for the photos. Definitely thinking about that Ikea Bed frame hack.

 

That sounded silly. I am trying to upload pictures but posted without. Opps. Will try again

 

Here is my bed and an upper using 80/20 and IKEA slats

 

And my upper storage

 

View attachment 142519

Do your sliding doors rattle when you drive? I saw OurKaravan guy on YouTube say they rattle and he needed to add felt, looked like a chore. I like the simplicity of this type of door vs hinges and latches, but am concerned about rattling!

 

I like the look of 80/20 and I tried like **** to make it work for me in my build. I bought some 15 series to play with and a few bins full of the carriage bolts, aircraft nuts, connectors, etc. I just never could settle in with it. It seemed like more work that it was worth and I still need to to cut wood for the panels. One day I decided to just skip the framing and use better quality pre-finished Baltic/Russian birch and pocket holes cabinet work and ATV ramps for a removable bed platform. I believe I ended up saving a lot of time, money, space, and weight.

 

I like the look of 80/20 and I tried like **** to make it work for me in my build. I bought some 15 series to play with and a few bins full of the carriage bolts, aircraft nuts, connectors, etc. I just never could settle in with it. It seemed like more work that it was worth and I still need to to cut wood for the panels. One day I decided to just skip the framing and use better quality pre-finished Baltic/Russian birch and pocket holes cabinet work and ATV ramps for a removable bed platform. I believe I ended up saving a lot of time, money, space, and weight.

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Your idea of using the ATV Ramps was brilliant!

 

I intend to do a moderate build using Unistrut. I'll build it, take it all out, paint it black, and reinstall it for a professional (though borderline industrial) look. I used this method on a 90's Econoline and was very pleased with the results. For what it's worth, I've used Unistrut countless times in industrial settings and NEVER seen it fail. And everything you need is available on the electrical aisle at your local Home Depot.

 

Unistrut / plywood platform frame, painted black, removable bed panels

 

Unistrut / plywood platform frame, painted black, removable bed panels

View attachment 142543

Outside Jack
Could you please provide a picture of how you secured the IKEA rails and the Unistrut?

 

Are those IKEA rails? If so...borderline genius! I say that because it's one of a few options rolling around in my head. Thanks for the photo.

 

Are those IKEA rails?

Yep, those are from IKEA. This is a mashup of what I’ve seen other folks do, the bits and pieces from each rolled up into what works for me.

 

Unistrut works very well as a structural member. I built a raised platform in a Transit Connect with Unistrut. The downsides of Unistrut vs 80/20 are higher weight, an unfinished appearance, and more likely to oxidize.

 

Unistrut works very well as a structural member. I built a raised platform in a Transit Connect with Unistrut. The downsides of Unistrut vs 80/20 are higher weight, an unfinished appearance, and more likely to oxidize.

There is the aluminum unistrut. Have you ever worked with that? I feel like some strategically placed steel unistrut members combined with the aluminum ones would reduce the weight enough.

 

Thanks for the info and picture
Alan

 

You have an item #? I looked into this idea a few months ago but figured there's no way it would actually work. Delighted to hear someone proved me wrong - will be perfect for the toy hauler functionality!!

 

Looks like it was Northern Tool.

https://cutt.ly/YhEAtgB

 

How about a third choice , aluminum angle and rivets?