UPDATE The rear passenger side pop-out is not required. You can simply guide the harness down the same pillar as the tail light all the way down. This way the harness only pops out into the cargo wall twice instead of 3 times. Thanks!

 

UPDATE The rear passenger side pop-out is not required. You can simply guide the harness down the same pillar as the tail light all the way down. This way the harness only pops out into the cargo wall twice instead of 3 times. Thanks!

Great video although I’m a little confused. I caught that the bumper removal was not needed in the video but this moment makes me think you didn’t need to pull the trim either is that right? I caulked mine so removing it really isn’t ideal any more.

Thanks for your contributions!

Cheers!

 

Thanks. That's really helpful. Now I know Never attempt to do this!.

 

HAHA yup! almost not worth doing it if you're build-out can just hide the wires or tuck them up high in the ceiling. My pain is your gain haha

 

Kind of pointless when the harness is still poking out of the wall in a couple of places.

 

Yup! I was pretty disappointed, but at least I'm able to share the info with others thinking of doing the same.

 

The 2015 had a large multi section plastic cover on the wall that was too large and too low. I discarded all the OEM plastic covers and replaced them with a 1 1/2" square electrical Panduit wireway along the driver side wall. Much smaller. Still had the problem of the elevation. The loom needed to be moved up the wall a few inches so it and the wireway are inside my overhead cabinets. Easy to do for the full length except for the back corner by the rear door. Wiring goes down from the loom to the driver side tail light and to a sensor over the driver side wheel well. I rerouted the sensor wire to create some slack and did the same with the tail light wires. That allowed me to move the loom up in the rear corner a few inches without cutting wires.

Pop riveted the wireway to the van wall until I got to the hardened steel just behind the driver seat. Had to use existing holes in that area.

I also discarded the plastic wireways above the rear doors. Made a box from above the door latches up to the roof. Removed the two LED lights and then reused one of them on bottom of the box. Repowered it from the house battery and added a switch next to the light.

Middle picture in second row of pictures shows the bottom of the box with the LED light:

Upper Rear | Orton Travel Transit (ortontransit.info)

The 1 1/2" Panduit wireway is located on the floor of the upper cabinet inside the cabinet. The snap on cover can be removed for future access.

 

Hi orton. where did you buy your Panduit?

 

Thanks for the info!

On my 2015, I cut the harness between the B and C pillars, pulled everything all the way back to the top rear, and re-routed it entirely through the body. The little bit of extra length required splicing in about a foot+ of wire to reconnect the harness. Luckily I'm a hoarder, and had some nearly matching color wire on hand to make it easy to sort. I think I added some wire length in the top rear, too.

Those squeamish about wiring are MUCH better off doing your method!

 

Rich thanks for the video, really helpful. BTW you can get the harness inside all the way down the driver side. I just used a crow bar to gently bend the opening (at C pillar) a little bigger so the big connector would fit through.

https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/media/wire-routing-jpg.821/full

 

Not sure I've seen anyone post this DIY yet so hope this helps others who want to pursue a similar path. This can be done in one afternoon with simple tools and patience.

UPDATE: WIRES DO NEED TO COME OUTSIDE OF THE BODY CAVITY ATLEAST TWICE. Consider if your build-out can just tuck the wire up high in the ceiling before spending hours re-routing your harness.

Video Link Below:
2020 Ford Transit Cargo Wire Harness Re-Route Without Cutting/Splicing

View attachment 142757

Thanks for the vid. Super helpful to us. We finished our reroute last weekend. Protip: Similar to OP, you will probably break some of the sealed clips to remove the passenger side body panel and wheel trim. Order these in advance: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJL9XSN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

I'd also recommend having some split wire loom and wire ties on hand to protect the harness anywhere it crosses, rests on a sharp edge.

 

I'm prepping to move the wire in my mid-roof cargo. Did you have to take off the rear bumper to unplug the rear sensor or were you able to just snap of the wheel trim and the back passenger corner?

 

As I look at the cavities in the walls as anyone every considered depinning the connector so the wire blum its between the walls and reattach the connector later?

 

Ford Australia are willing to do all of this for you if you request it on a new build out, saves so much time or any work yourself and didn't cost anything extra on the vehicle, just requested it and they agreed to do it in one of their 2023 350E

 

Is this something that is only in the AWD models? I have a 2020 Wagon (Passenger Van) that has the airbags on the sides and the wiring harness was already located inside the walls from the factory.

 

It might be a the cargo van only thing, All the passenger van owners whine about is removing the airbags for camper van conversion.
In all of they years I have been here I have never heard the passenger van owners say anything about the wiring.