I have a 2019 ford transit connect and the front right brake has been locking up. I have replaced the caliper and rubber brake hose and bled all the lines. With the car jacked up I can spin the driver side wheel just fine. With the passenger side front as soon as I press the brakes it takes 25 seconds before the wheel will spin by hand. I’m not sure what could be causing this and any help is appreciated thank you.
2019 ford transit connect front right brake sticky
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Adamo123
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Same issue here. 2018 MY. Condemned ABS unit after replacing calipers and pads. Waiting for reman HCU so I decided to remove the master cylinder just in case it was the culprit. I noticed it was sticky when manually plunging piston so I disassembled and found little white chunks of material that looks like plastic but will dissolve when rubbed with fingers. WFT. it was in reservoir that sits on top of M cylinder. Is it the float for low fluid level that disintegrated? It does not float in DOT4. if its in the bore of master then it got into ABS unit. Again WTF.
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2018 MY Master cylinder. and HCU replaced and flushed system due to white plastic-like material in lower reservoir. it dissolves when rubbed in fingers. Unless you remove and disassemble the master cylinder you wont see it. I'm sure it is in the HCU also creating havoc.
I had to replace all the brakes (pads, calipers, rotors) a month ago because of this, but didn't know what the issue was. That was $1350. Then the issue happened again, and they figured out it was the Antilock system and had to replace all the parts again (did it via warranty) but then the Valve Assembly, Brake Master Cylinder, programming, etc. for $1500! and it only comes with a 1 year warranty!?!?!?!
I have the 2019 Transit Connect and it only has 19,000 miles on it....crazy to have to put this kind of money into a repair on a vehicle with so little miles due to a manufacturing defect!!!!!
I have the 2019 Transit Connect and it only has 19,000 miles on it....crazy to have to put this kind of money into a repair on a vehicle with so little miles due to a manufacturing defect!!!!!
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Does the abs pump have to be programmed?? What exactly did you Change??
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I stumbled across this thread while having the same kind of trouble many of you have. This thread was very helpful in repairing my 2020 transit connect so I wanted to share my experience. As others have described, I had two wheels trying to lock up (left front and right rear). Started a couple of months ago. Disconnected the ABS system to keep it on the road and it seemed to help for awhile. Started to do it again even with the ABS disconnected. After reading the forums I decided it must be my ABS. I confirmed by putting the transit connect on a lift and bleeding the line right at the ABS and the wheels freed up until brakes were applied again. Bleed the line at the master cylinder and no effect. (FYI: ABS in a small 2020 is located behind the battery in the engine compartment.). This was all with the battery disconnected entirely so I knew it was not electronic. Once I had the ABS removed I tested each solenoid valve with a strong magnet sliding it up the side until I heard a click. One solenoid was not clicking and was on the side marked FL and RR. Cleaned multiple times running denatured alcohol through it and worked the solenoid with the magnet. Eventually it broke free and sounded like the other solenoids. Reinstalled and bleed the system to get the air out. Works beautifully so far (has only been a week so time will tell). I appreciate all of you sharing your experiences and hope the above will be a help to others just the same as y’all were to me. Thanks.
Having the same issue with my 2020 transit connect - darn Ford. Where is that solenoid fl/rr - on black electronics box side or aluminum box with motor. It does sound like deep clean helps with fixing it. Love the car but really don’t want to fork $3400 on replacing ABS
Test with magnet like in a picture?
Test it like that with magnet?
I think what bcmcphearson was referring to are the metal parts that stick up into that black electrical module. Inside each of the metal "towers" is a valve that gets actuated by the electromagnet in the electronics module. If you place a strong magnet on the side of that tower you should be able to hear the valve actuating when you place and remove the magnet. So I am speculating that he removed the hydraulic side with the motor, and ran alcohol through the brake line ports while working that particular valve that wouldn't click when placing the magnet on it.
You're right. I just got a crash course on ABS by watching a youtube video.It's insane - dude explains how ABS works in great details and cuts every component to see what's inside.
Basically solenoid pins inside of the aluminum part of ABS actuator hydraulic part get stuck and brake fluid can't flow back and keeps the calliper pushed out causing sticky breaks. One half of the ABS module (actuator) responsible for FL/RR and another FR/RL tires. That's exactly what's going on with my car. Be careful when you order new ABS modules - they come in two different models depending on a year and month the car was made. Part number KV6Z2b373A and KV6Z2b373D. KV6Z2b373A for years 2019-2020 and KV6Z2b373D for 2020-2023. Ford could not explain the difference - they look the same to me. They ask for the last 8 numbers of your VIN and tell you exactly the right one you need. I think most of the failures of ABS are happening in 2020-2023 but of course we will not see the recall any time soon if ever.
I recommend watching that video - I would give that mecanic Nobel prize for squeezing in a 10 minutes video how ABS works and cutting each component to show what's inside.
I was blown away.
Basically solenoid pins inside of the aluminum part of ABS actuator hydraulic part get stuck and brake fluid can't flow back and keeps the calliper pushed out causing sticky breaks. One half of the ABS module (actuator) responsible for FL/RR and another FR/RL tires. That's exactly what's going on with my car. Be careful when you order new ABS modules - they come in two different models depending on a year and month the car was made. Part number KV6Z2b373A and KV6Z2b373D. KV6Z2b373A for years 2019-2020 and KV6Z2b373D for 2020-2023. Ford could not explain the difference - they look the same to me. They ask for the last 8 numbers of your VIN and tell you exactly the right one you need. I think most of the failures of ABS are happening in 2020-2023 but of course we will not see the recall any time soon if ever.
I recommend watching that video - I would give that mecanic Nobel prize for squeezing in a 10 minutes video how ABS works and cutting each component to show what's inside.
I was blown away.
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Josh_9980 is correct. I removed the black electronic box (two or three long screws) and exposed the metal valve bodies. I had to use a strong magnet and drag it along the side. If you go slow, you can hear the working solenoids.
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I know - that’s the like the best video covering ABS in such great details in 10 minutes or so.
Dude is not just good mechanic but also explains electrical portion of it with diagrams.
I suspect dude is retired engineer turned mechanic or something like that.Great video to get PhD in ABS in less than 10 minutes.
ABS for dummies - I was blown away as well.
Dude is not just good mechanic but also explains electrical portion of it with diagrams.
I suspect dude is retired engineer turned mechanic or something like that.Great video to get PhD in ABS in less than 10 minutes.
ABS for dummies - I was blown away as well.
Does anyone know if control unit will have to be programmed by ford with vin # if I use used abs from another car- same model and everything or brand new one from ford as a set - with controller unit. For transits 2020-2023 they only sell it as a set but I think it will need vin # assigned by ford.
I am going for used on. Replacing the hydraulic part of it from another car with 30K and moving brain ( controller into) from my car. I am hoping it will save hustle taking it to the ford to be programmed.
I am going for used on. Replacing the hydraulic part of it from another car with 30K and moving brain ( controller into) from my car. I am hoping it will save hustle taking it to the ford to be programmed.
Also wanted to bring to your attention to replace break fluid only at Ford or make sure it’s DOT -4 LV.
LV stands for low velocity. ABS unit is a half of size of original one as in models prior to 2020 and does require DOT-4 LV. There is a difference between DOT-4 and DOT-4 LV
I did have break fluid replaced 3 years ago-who knows what they used. Ford’s Motocraft DOT-4 LV is recommended. Still think there should have been recall for ABS for transits but it’s unlikely we will see it anytime soon.
LV stands for low velocity. ABS unit is a half of size of original one as in models prior to 2020 and does require DOT-4 LV. There is a difference between DOT-4 and DOT-4 LV
I did have break fluid replaced 3 years ago-who knows what they used. Ford’s Motocraft DOT-4 LV is recommended. Still think there should have been recall for ABS for transits but it’s unlikely we will see it anytime soon.
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Same thing here and I feel exactly the same. Only here’s the part that will make you feel better p, sort of! Mine happened at only 17k miles!
Replaced abs pump and used abs controller from my
car hoping to avoid going to ford for programming.
Flushed break fluid, did abs break bleed - it was contaminated with some elements. Funny - paid for breaks flush service few days before I started to work on pump (HPU) replacement. No wonder they don’t want you to watch how they do it. They cut corners and do brakes bleed instead of flush. Oh..
Anyway- breaks work great after replacement but without ABS. I am getting traction control warning, hill climb assist, power steering assist..
When I hook up testing tool - abs tests are fine but HPU test fails- it says tool can’t communicate with HPU ( hydraulic pump unit)
Testing tool errors P0942-46, P0942-46AB
It could be abs control unit and HPU pump programmed together (integrated) since for my 2020 transit they come as a set- ford does not sell it separately as for prior 2020 transits.
Talked to the ford nerds at the dealership- explained exactly what I did. They said to bring car over and they will do service reset and that will fix the problem. Not sure what service reset means but will find out. Setup appointment for next Tuesday.
Don’t mind paying a few hundred for that - hopefully that will be the end of it. Will check meantime front wheel abs speed sensor- front left wheel rotor was so hot- smell of burning rubber. Maybe it melted abs speed sensor.
Darn ford- how can you make abs system that instead of turning off when something is wrong- grinds down rotors and can burn down your car.
Very disappointed in ford engineering- never heard of issues like that with Honda or Toyota.
car hoping to avoid going to ford for programming.
Flushed break fluid, did abs break bleed - it was contaminated with some elements. Funny - paid for breaks flush service few days before I started to work on pump (HPU) replacement. No wonder they don’t want you to watch how they do it. They cut corners and do brakes bleed instead of flush. Oh..
Anyway- breaks work great after replacement but without ABS. I am getting traction control warning, hill climb assist, power steering assist..
When I hook up testing tool - abs tests are fine but HPU test fails- it says tool can’t communicate with HPU ( hydraulic pump unit)
Testing tool errors P0942-46, P0942-46AB
It could be abs control unit and HPU pump programmed together (integrated) since for my 2020 transit they come as a set- ford does not sell it separately as for prior 2020 transits.
Talked to the ford nerds at the dealership- explained exactly what I did. They said to bring car over and they will do service reset and that will fix the problem. Not sure what service reset means but will find out. Setup appointment for next Tuesday.
Don’t mind paying a few hundred for that - hopefully that will be the end of it. Will check meantime front wheel abs speed sensor- front left wheel rotor was so hot- smell of burning rubber. Maybe it melted abs speed sensor.
Darn ford- how can you make abs system that instead of turning off when something is wrong- grinds down rotors and can burn down your car.
Very disappointed in ford engineering- never heard of issues like that with Honda or Toyota.
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I usually drive high mileage vehicles and never had a problem with an ABS (older Fords, Toyotas, Honda, etc..). This was my first time fighting one. The worse part is that removing the fuse only helped for a few months and then it started locking the brakes regardless.
Hope the dealership can fix your new problems without trying to replace parts or charge you a fortune for things you don’t actually need. We got burned with our local dealership that is why I did it myself instead of taking it in. Kind of a relief that I was out of the warranty period.
Same here ... $2000,00 later and now they want to replace ABS module .. What a piece of XXXX Time for a new vehicle ..
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