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I did reply back but have heard nothing from you. Looks like you are a new member. Maybe you are on new member probation.
I do still have templates for sale. Excellent condition half the price of new.
 
I just received this one from Titan Vans. It seems like it will be an excellent way to save hours of measuring and testing but much cheaper than ordering the wall kits themselves.
Paper Template Kit for DIY Transit Van Panels

Also, they sell a structural steel that really helps create a nice transition. I also bought and installed these...
AVC Rig also sells paper wall panel patterns. AVC Rig Transit 148 Paper Pattern Wall Kits

Thinking about using these for my future 148” MR long. Wall panels will be .25” Baltic birch with .125” landau foam and Marathon/Duramax fabric. Here is how the bottom and top panel edges will held in place using the top set of rivnut locations:
Image

The bottom set of rivnuts will get a section of L-track (or Unistrut) behind the furniture fastened through the lower wall panels.
 
AVC Rig also sells paper wall panel patterns. AVC Rig Transit 148 Paper Pattern Wall Kits

Thinking about using these for my future 148” MR long. Wall panels will be .25” Baltic birch with .125” landau foam and Marathon/Duramax fabric. Here is how the bottom and top panel edges will held in place using the top set of rivnut locations:
View attachment 189168
The bottom set of rivnuts will get a section of L-track (or Unistrut) behind the furniture fastened through the lower wall panels.
Had the opportunity to measure the wall panel attachment holes in a 2016 MR today. They are 22.625" and 21.25" above the metal van floor (valley between ribs). This 1.375" spacing is too tight to use both sets of holes for the panel channel pictured above AND the L-track attached through the lower wall panel. Looks like I'll be drilling at least one set of new holes...most likely for the L-track. Either that or bite the bullet and use L-track to both hold the wall panels AND attach the furniture to the van walls (leaning this way now...). No biggie either way.
 
Had the opportunity to measure the wall panel attachment holes in a 2016 MR today. They are 22.625" and 21.25" above the metal van floor (valley between ribs). This 1.375" spacing is too tight to use both sets of holes for the panel channel pictured above AND the L-track attached through the lower wall panel. Looks like I'll be drilling at least one set of new holes...most likely for the L-track. Either that or bite the bullet and use L-track to both hold the wall panels AND attach the furniture to the van walls (leaning this way now...). No biggie either way.
Do you need full wall coverage?

When my conversion was completed the only wall surface that is visible was from the top of my bench seats to the bottom of the rear overhead cabinets. That includes the rear window indents. To make the east/west bed length 73 1/2" the insulation in the window indents was limited to 1 1/2" of rigid insulation covered with indoor/outdoor carpet. Full flat wall coverage would limit the bed length.

Walls behind the two rear upper cabinets, behind the rear bench seats and behind the full height refrigerator and shower cabinets are hidden so only have painted 1/4" plywood wall coverings.

Walls | Orton Travel Transit (ortontransit.info)

Same approach used for the ceiling. Ceiling only done between the cabinets above the aisle. No ceiling above the rear upper cabinets or above the full height refrigerator cabinet.
 
Do you need full wall coverage?

When my conversion was completed the only wall surface that is visible was from the top of my bench seats to the bottom of the rear overhead cabinets. That includes the rear window indents. To make the east/west bed length 73 1/2" the insulation in the window indents was limited to 1 1/2" of rigid insulation covered with indoor/outdoor carpet. Full flat wall coverage would limit the bed length.

Walls behind the two rear upper cabinets, behind the rear bench seats and behind the full height refrigerator and shower cabinets are hidden so only have painted 1/4" plywood wall coverings.

Walls | Orton Travel Transit (ortontransit.info)

Same approach used for the ceiling. Ceiling only done between the cabinets above the aisle. No ceiling above the rear upper cabinets or above the full height refrigerator cabinet.
Such a great question. This got me thinking about how to do the wall panels behind my furniture modules and it turns out I can eliminate one long lower wall panel on the driver side plus shorten the other one considerably making it easier to do my through-skin plumbing fittings. Just need to make sure the Thinsulate insulation stays in place.
Image
 
@cvollers I've been looking at this fabric/acoustic felt material as the back side of cabinets where I don't need "real" wall material:


Someone here had linked to it a while ago. It's "CLASS A ASTM-E84" fire rated -- not specifically for mobile use, but should be safe inside van cabinets.

BTW, what is the double "U" extrusion that you're showing for the base of your wall panels? Looks very useful for my build... This part on your model:
Image
 
@cvollers I've been looking at this fabric/acoustic felt material as the back side of cabinets where I don't need "real" wall material:


Someone here had linked to it a while ago. It's "CLASS A ASTM-E84" fire rated -- not specifically for mobile use, but should be safe inside van cabinets.

BTW, what is the double "U" extrusion that you're showing for the base of your wall panels? Looks very useful for my build... This part on your model:
View attachment 189440
Interesting panel idea...I like it. The thing you identified is actually a gang of three separate U channel anodized extrusions that are tack welded (or glued) on the backside to a thin strip of aluminum and bolted to the van wall through the center channel. I was looking for an alternative to L-track as I don't need it for attaching stuff to the wall and don't particularly like the way it looks unless its on the floor doing tie-down duty.
Image

The bolt needs to be M5 to fit in the channel which will work with a M8 rivnut with M5 threaded inserts put into the rivnuts first.

BTW, I'm a big fan of Richelieu and have been using their panels and drawer boxes for years. I'm using their aluminum tambour door in my build.
 
That looks great - solid inspiration for panel fastening. The only downside I can think of would be possible wood shrinkage in the future that could possibly cause the panels to rattle inside the U channel. In the interest of being able to disassemble my walls for troubleshooting/re-routing things in the future, I don't think I'd want to glue the wood into the U channel.

Do you have a Richlieu vendor that you've worked with? Or does your company have the ability to order from them? I'd be interested if you end up pursuing the Duotex panel option.
 
That looks great - solid inspiration for panel fastening. The only downside I can think of would be possible wood shrinkage in the future that could possibly cause the panels to rattle inside the U channel. In the interest of being able to disassemble my walls for troubleshooting/re-routing things in the future, I don't think I'd want to glue the wood into the U channel.

Do you have a Richlieu vendor that you've worked with? Or does your company have the ability to order from them? I'd be interested if you end up pursuing the Duotex panel option.
My company has a Richelieu account and we buy direct. Between the .25” Baltic birch (which won’t shrink) and the .125” landau foam (plus the fabric wrap on the plywood) it will be a nice tight fit in the channels. No need to glue or fasten at that location. I'm not routing anything other than a few wires behind the wall panels (lighting, pop-top USB outlets, and ceiling mounted speakers), but I still like the idea of easily removing the wall panels if needed.
 
I bought the Titan templates. I’m going to start cutting today. In a few weeks I’ll list them for sale on this site. Figure I can recoup a bunch of my cost and someone else will get a good value. They won’t get damaged by tracing. They are high quality, you are buying more than just cardboard. They are stamped out more accurate than I can make. Also, I don’t have the cost/effort of dumpster diving for cardboard. I did template my own floor with scrape cardboard.
Are you done with them and ready to sell?
 
I just received this one from Titan Vans. It seems like it will be an excellent way to save hours of measuring and testing but much cheaper than ordering the wall kits themselves.
Paper Template Kit for DIY Transit Van Panels

Also, they sell a structural steel that really helps create a nice transition. I also bought and installed these...
I know this is an old thread but can you tell me if the templates and steel structure will work if you frame the van?
Many thanks, Bill
 
I know this is an old thread but can you tell me if the templates and steel structure will work if you frame the van?
Many thanks, Bill
If you're asking what I think you're asking, the templates from Titan van and the structural supports from Titan Vans are intended to be used against the sheet metal of the van with a 1/2" thick floor.

If you "frame" the van (like furring strips?), then you're moving all of those panels in by however thick your framing is.

The templates will get you in the ballpark if you frame the van but you'll need to do some over-sizing and then trimming if you want a very clean look. If you just want to throw up wall panels on top of framing/furring strips you'll be fine.
 
If you're asking what I think you're asking, the templates from Titan van and the structural supports from Titan Vans are intended to be used against the sheet metal of the van with a 1/2" thick floor.

If you "frame" the van (like furring strips?), then you're moving all of those panels in by however thick your framing is.

The templates will get you in the ballpark if you frame the van but you'll need to do some over-sizing and then trimming if you want a very clean look. If you just want to throw up wall panels on top of framing/furring strips you'll be fine.
Thank-you for the reply.
 
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