Use with doors or windows open. The more ventilation the better. So far I haven’t died...summer use with open windows & roof vent, maybe even side door. Having the cooktop on the slider door side is even better (than mine). That said, I refuse to use a Mr Buddy propane heater. The more closed-up your van is while cooking the worse the CO issue can be.


2015 Tall, Medium Length, Cargo, 3.5EB, pretty generic-looking, DIY camper

 

I have a portable two burner propane stove. Put it on sink counter for cooking. Also can use it on a drop down table that goes out the open slider door or on a picnic table. If sink counter is located at the slider door with the door open the steam and smells go out the opening.

I had a 10,000 btu Coleman stove that would not boil water when it was windy. Solved that problem by replacing it with a 17,000 btu Camp Chef Ranger II stove.

 

Food for thought: This is the grease shadow left from cooking two small steaks in a pan on a butane stove.

 

If the stove is operating correctly with a bluish flame, there will be very little carbon MONOXIDE (CO) being released. (If the flame is not bluish far more CO will be released). With a good flame, the primary emissions will be carbon DIOXIDE (CO2)and water vapor. As long as your flame is mainly bluish in color, you should be fine. But as everyone else has said, ventilate while operating.

 

Thanks!!! Very helpful information!!
Really great to know that I can safely operate a stove inside the van....now I need to go about figuring out the best way to set up my 2 burner Coleman camp stove in there. Actually a one-burner stove would fit in better, so I'm going to look for one of those to use instead.....

 

As noted, with good ventilation and clean flame no problem. We tested ours with one small awning window open and the ceiling fan to simulate a rainy day and no problem. We do tend to cook outside and would make a point of cooking greasy things outside. We have a long propane hose/adapter that we use to cook outside. There is still a little olive oil on the outside of our van from the last time we made corn fritters!

 

We like to cook outside (at the end of a gas hose) but if the weather is too nasty we move in. If the problem is wind and the van is in a satisfactory orientation we set the stove on the van floor in the sliding door opening and cook standing on the ground. If there is precipitation or extreme cold we move all the way in leaving the sliding door cracked and the roof vent open. We stay away from spattery dishes under these conditions and are here to tell the story.

CO poisoning is one concern but I am also mindful of stove failure that could result in a flare-up. I'm always ready to grab the tank valve and quickly eject the stove at a moment's notice.

--Frank

 

I noticed that my small disposable canister butane hiking stove sets off my CO detector much more quickly than my Coleman 2-burner propane suitcase stove. Never looked into why, but I rarely use that one inside anymore.

 

I spoke to an REI employee at an REI store recently about camp stoves, and he stated that propane "burns cleaner" than butane, and thus he suggested propane stoves a better option for possible ventilated indoor use, than butane. For this reason I eliminated the possibility of butane stove use inside the vehicle.

 

Just to add -- I'm wigged out by carbon monoxide -- but that hasn't kept us from including a 3 burner propane stove, ventless water heater and diesel heater in our build. It has made me more vigilant during installation and testing of all 3. With a quality CO detector (with sampling pump) I've tuned the heater to just 45 ppm at the exhaust (outside), I've confirmed after 2 hours of running that 0 ppm are reentering. The water heater and stove exhausts CO inside, but it isn't a ton. But for good measure, we'll run our roof fan and a window when using either -- and with all of that -- as insurance / piece of mind -- we have a pair of ultra low level / fast alarming CO detectors. They read at 10 ppm and alarm at 25. One will be inside the cabinet containing the heater and water heater -- and the second by the bed.

For us -- it's about safely mitigating the risks. I know we'll sleep at night -- warm and with the option for cooking and hot water -- even if it's snowing or if the sun hasn't shined enough to charge our battery bank for electric options.

 

I spoke to an REI employee at an REI store recently about camp stoves, and he stated that propane "burns cleaner" than butane, and thus he suggested propane stoves a better option for possible ventilated indoor use, than butane. For this reason I eliminated the possibility of butane stove use inside the vehicle.

Thanks for this! I was looking at the small one burner butane stoves, but have now crossed it off my list.
Ive seen a couple mentions in van conversion dialogs of doing some kind of outside vent for the propane...esp. propane tank stored in cabinet below stove. Any idea how to do that?

 

A Gas-One GS 800P is a compact burner alternative: portable, butane or propane (with included pigtail hose, for use with green bottles). They make similar larger 1 and 2 burner alternatives. I would like to have something similar (or adapt this one) to work off the usual 11 W.C. pressure typical for built-in (permanent) propane systems. I simply do not have the counter space for the typical 2-burner “permanent-mount” options from Suburban, Atwood, or Flame King.

In other words, instead of connecting the portable burner to a green bottle, connect it to a quick-disconnect “port” inside the van. Theoretically, this could be done, but I have doubts/concerns about the quick-disconnects I’ve seen which are intended for feeding an outside grill or burner from an on-board propane tank. I’m talking about using the quick-connect INSIDE the van, for an inside burner. Obviously, I would disconnect the burner while driving. The 2 challenges to this are:
1) matching the pressure requirements (portable burners like bottle-top screw-ons or the GS800P I mentioned above, expect hi-pressure, whether from green bottle or typical refillable tank), whereas, built-in propane systems (like in a typical RV or 5th wheel) deliver the propane at low pressure (11 W.C. as mentioned above).
2) would the quick-disconnect itself be safe inside the van? I would further protect from leakage inside the van with a propane solenoid mounted near the tank (underneath the van), but I would really like the blessing from an RV propane professional. So far, no one will talk to me about this. (I wonder why?).


2015 Tall, Medium Length, Cargo, 3.5EB, pretty generic-looking, DIY camper

 

I love my Camp Chef Oven! When I first bought it four years ago it was not called an Outdoor Oven. The first year I used it inside the Transit, Common sense said I should install heat shields around it to protect nearby woodwork from heat. Floor vents and the Roof vent above it provided more then enough airflow but more often then not the sliding door was open as well.
The second year I rebuilt my conversion to fit a larger Bed and there was no longer room for a Stove, The Camp Chef now lives under the bed and is only used outside.

Shop Outdoor Ovens and Camping Ovens | Camp Chef

Shop our outdoor camp ovens. Make the same meal in the woods as you would in your kitchen. Buy a Camping Outdoor Oven and never make dehydrated meals again.

www.campchef.com

 

What did you use for your heat shields? Thanks!

 

Hi folks - first post here.
I have a 1 burner Coleman propane stove that I use in my vehicle for both cooking & heat. My vehicle is a 2015 4x4 F-250 and I live in my truck more then 7 months of the year.

Propane is heavier than air which means it will sink to the lowest spot in your vehicle and accumulate upwards from there if unable to escape. CO2 is also heavier than air and will , to repeat, sink to the lowest spot in your vehicle if unable to escape. Always have a CO2 detector in your vehicle and it should be placed in a relatively low position and the CO2 detector should always be placed below your sleep position and any gap you have for propane/CO2 escape should be as low as possible, preferably below the CO2 detector.

My instruction Manuel says my 1 burner Coleman stove requires at minimum 9sq inches for ventilation which is 3" x 3" not a very big opening. Because of the 1/8th inch gap at the bottom of my tailgate along with the openings around the sides of the tailgate I've never had my co2 detector go off on me. Vans & many other vehicles can be sealed up very well so make sure you both a low opening for Propane/CO2 escape as well as higher openning for fresh air to enter. CO2 detectors are very inexpensive - have one.
Thanx...........BchBumJonny

 

CO2 (carbon dioxide) is of relatively low concern, compared to CO (carbon monoxide). It's relatively hard to kill yourself with CO2 while it is quite easy with CO.

Every camper van should have a CO detector. Here's a link that talks about where to best place a CO detector.

Where should I place a carbon monoxide detector? | US EPA

 

I have a $120 Camp Chef Teton, 2 burner propane stove, that we mounted on top of our "galley" module with easily removed through bolts. Typically we de-mount it and cook outside. However, we use it inside the van when its too cold, raining, can't be arsed in the morning, quick coffee stop, etc. We use refillable 1lb propane tanks, one of which will cook breakfast, mid-day coffee and dinner for about 6 days. If you forget to refill them or simply run out, you can get the single use versions everywhere.

The warning label and all of the theoretical danger comes from CO (carbon monoxide), which as others noted is almost non existent if the flame is blue. As an additional safety measure I mounted a good quality CO meter inside the van. You essentially pay 3 -5 time the price for a RV stoves basically for the certification process that allows them to ship without the label. No prizes for guessing what they use to certify them lol.

We have cooked inside a lot, with every combination of doors, windows and fan open/on or closed/off. The CO alarm has never gone off but we have seen a small but insignificant rise in CO with everything closed up.

An additional benefit is that if we forget to set the timer on the heater, 2 x 10,000 Btu burners will get the van warm and toasty inside in about 3 minutes flat, on the coldest of mornings,

Here are a couple of photos of the galley module I made before I installed it. The complete module de-mounts in about 2 minutes and the cooker de-mounts from the module in about 30 sec.

 

I have a $120 Camp Chef Teton, 2 burner propane stove, that we mounted on top of our "galley" module with easily removed through bolts. Typically we de-mount it and cook outside. However, we use it inside the van when its too cold, raining, can't be arsed in the morning, quick coffee stop, etc. We use refillable 1lb propane tanks, one of which will cook breakfast, mid-day coffee and dinner for about 6 days. You can get them everywhere.

The warning label and all of the theoretical danger comes from CO (carbon monoxide), which as others noted is almost non existent if the flame is blue. As an additional safety measure I mounted a good quality CO meter inside the van. You essentially pay 3 -5 time the price for a RV stoves basically for the certification process that allows them to ship without the label. No prizes for guessing what they use to certify them lol.

We have cooked inside a lot, with every combination of doors, windows and fan open/on or closed/off. The CO alarm has never gone off but we have seen a small but insignificant rise in CO with everything closed up.

An additional benefit is that if we forget to set the timer on the heater, 2 x 10,000 Btu burners will get the van warm and toasty inside in about 3 minutes flat, on the coldest of mornings,

Here are a couple of photos of the galley module I made before I installed it. The complete module de-mounts in about 2 minutes and the cooker de-mounts from the module in about 30 sec.

View attachment 138109
View attachment 138111 View attachment 138113

Brilliant!

 

It's not like a stove is going to be on for more than 15-20 minutes, I wouldn't worry about becoming asphyxiated. Cracking a window will certainly be a good idea.

The biggest concern of cooking in the van is WHAT you cook. Stinky food will be with you always, and saturate your clothes and skin as well. People will easily pick you out as the hobo in the crowd. I recommend not cooking any kind of meats inside the van. Or onions or peppers.

 

So true and is the same for RV's Campers, trailers and boats. Cumin is absolutely the worst.

 

Do you mean vent for the propane when it's being used, or just a vent for areas where propane is being stored?
I suppose that if you want to vent an area where propane is being stored while in use or not in use you'd need to create a vent through the wall or floor of the van to the outside. To me that is a huge hassle and I wouldn't want to to it, which is part of why I'm aiming at not having a built-in cooking arrangement. If I want to cook in the van eg if it's raining outside and messy, I can set up my camping stove on my counter --- I made a plywood cover for my sink, allowing me to set the plywood there to extend the counter and make it larger, to hold the propane cannister for the stove.

The plywood cover for the sink has cleats on the bottom which fit tight against the sides of the sink, so that the plywood cover won't slide around when placed atop the sink. I did this bit of work at the last minute with the only 3/4 inch plywood I had left from my build, which is why it doesn't cover the entire sink. I could later on get a larger piece that looks neater when placed atop the sink, but this does the job for now.

 

There are inexpensive ways to do a vented/sealed propane storage locker inside the van.

 

CO is the biggest hazard but a properly burning camp stove shouldnt emit much CO and an alarm can be used and greatly reduce the risk form that.
CO2 is also a risk, and it is a normal byproduct from a clean burn, that and H20. I have a CO2 monitor and when using a propane stove the counts go up a lot and opening the doors takes a lot longer than expected to go back to normal. CO2 relates to oxygen in the air.

That being said my current build is using an inductive stove

 

@gypsy brewer - I like the idea of the plastic container for your propane tank. However, that ground wire will not bleed off static charge. It will prevent a charge from building up right where the wire and bolt are and that is it. The bucket is a dielectric and so charge can build up on the surface but there is no way for that charge to travel to the wire and get grounded. Look up "dissectible leyden jar". Not too worried about the static charge thing though, but just thought you should know.

 

Not concerned with the potential static charge from the surface of the plastic. The brass bolt passes through the plastic and is bonded to the chassis ground.

 

The cylinder ground connection continues through the bucket to the van chassis ground.

@Boondox is still right, it will be able to hold a charge as is, look up “Leyden jar”

 

Well, maybe I misunderstand. But if you are trying to drain a static charge from the bucket it won't work.The propane tank itself will not build up a static charge as it is metal and only a dielectric can build a static charge.

 

Again, not attempting to "drain" a static charge from the surface of the plastic. Simply bonding the cylinder to the chassis ground.

 

Gypsy, what exactly are you trying to prevent from happening? Charge on the bucket or charge on the tank? Something else? In any case, the ground wire that you have isn't going to prevent any kind of static charge from building up on the bucket (which could hold a charge) or the tank (which can't hold a charge).

In a Leyden jar (or any other capacitor) the charge resides on the dielectric. So even if the plates are separated by an insulator they still are in a "constant state of discharge". As they are metal they cannot hold a charge, only conduct it.

 

Several of the stoves/burners discussed (like typical Coleman) include their own regulator to reduce the gas pressure from green bottle or larger propane tank to what the burners actually see. Has anyone modified one of these stoves to work with low pressure input? (Eliminate the regulator, and tie into a “pre-regulated” RV system (typically 11 W.C. Or about 0.4 psi). I’ve never seen discussion of what these stoves’ built-in regulators drop the pressure down to.


2015 Tall, Medium Length, Cargo, 3.5EB, pretty generic-looking, DIY camper

 

@impatient I would be curious about what pressure that stoves expect. I have been meaning to do an experiment with my Camp Chef and see.

While we are on the subject of CO and smoke detectors, anybody have a recommendation for a model that doesn't nuisance trip every time you cook?

 

My RV build allows for indoor cooking, but is primarily designed to be lived out of; outdoor cooking.

As others have said, install propane and CO detectors. Propane can and will displace oxygen, those 1# propane bottles have been known to leak! Always provide ventilation for fresh air!!!

RE: stoves

I have three propane cooking appliances; Camp Chef Everest, GasOne GS-800P, Magma BBQ.
Per Camp Chef, the Everest stove requires 15psi for rated output. GasOne GS-800P requires greater than 11" w.c. (approx. 0.4psi). I bought the GS-800P for indoor cooking, reheating and boiling water. The GS-800P burner fed with RV propane pressure, 11"w.c., has a significant reduction in burner output. The interior propane distribution system has a ball valve/quick connect for use with the GS-800P.

Outdoor cooking will be fed from a medium pressure, greater than 15psi (currently 30 psi regulator), to accommodate the pressure requirements of Camp Chef. Both the Camp Chef and Magma appliances will be fed through their respective regulators. I tested both appliances fed from a 1# propane bottle and fed through a 30psi regulator. the test showed no difference in burner flames.

If having a uniform propane pressure is preferred inside and out, the Camp Chef Ranger stoves can be fed with 11"w.c. (per Camp Chef). I did not go with this stove because the CHIEF COOK likes the Everest with the two 20K btu burners and build-in wind shields.

 

...

RE: stoves

I have three propane cooking appliances; Camp Chef Everest, GasOne GS-800P, Magma BBQ.
Per Camp Chef, the Everest stove requires 15psi for rated output. GasOne GS-800P requires greater than 11" w.c. (approx. 0.4psi). I bought the GS-800P for indoor cooking, reheating and boiling water. The GS-800P burner fed with RV propane pressure, 11"w.c., has a significant reduction in burner output. The interior propane distribution system has a ball valve/quick connect for use with the GS-800P.

...

Sounds like you have done something close to what I want to do. I’m guessing the hose supplied with the GS-800p has a regulator built in, and I assume it is on the end that would screw onto the green bottle. That assumption might be wrong though. Perhaps the regulation is internal to the stove (so would work with propane or butane. Feeding that hose (and regulator) with 11 W.C. From the RV propane distribution would result in “double regulation:” one on the hose, and the other in the RV’s distribution system. So if you lopped off that hose regulator, and attached the male quick-disconnect to that hose in its place with some appropriate fitting, you would be eliminating the double regulation. The other approach would be to not cut off that regulator, but supply the quick-disconnect from a different system regulator...one that was set to, say, 4psi. Of course, this probably goes against all code.


2015 Tall, Medium Length, Cargo, 3.5EB, pretty generic-looking, DIY camper

 

I cut the hose(used with 1# botle) at the regulator, so the stove is fed directly from RV pressure. Butane bottle connects directly to the stove. Yes, "lopped off that hose regulator, and attached the male quick-disconnect to that hose in its place with some appropriate fitting..."

The propane pressure distribution system within the RV is 11"w.c., fed from a solenoid/regulator outside of interior.

 

To be clear: are you saying, with this setup, the GS800P had less output than when connected to green bottle (before lopping off the regulator)?


2015 Tall, Medium Length, Cargo, 3.5EB, pretty generic-looking, DIY camper