[njvagabond]

My only other redesign issue is the Lagun table mount. As you can see in the photo above in my last post I tried to use two of the bases mounted on top of each other so that my table can swing over the counter while driving and then lower to a sitting height once the chairs are rotated.

A was looking back through your thread .... not a puppy anymore!

Pointing out the issue you encountered with your mounting for the Lagun table is very helpful. I am planning to do something similar. I'd appreciate it if you could answer a few questions for me.

• I would like to use the table at the seats or as an extension level with my counters and be able to swivel the top over the counter height for storage. How much adjustment is possible with one mount. I can't find any drawings/specs on the Lagun site.
• Do you need to have the horizontal member above the counter to swivel the table or does the bracket provide enough clearance to rotate if it is lower than the counter top?
• The width of the backing plate may be problematic where I want to mount the table. One of the work arounds I am considering is mounting two sections of leg with the dowel pieces at heights for use over the seat and storage over the counter. Do you think this would work? Do you think the mount/unmount with this set up would be any more or less difficult than what you are trying to do with two brackets?

Thanks.

 

[EnviroProf]

• I would like to use the table at the seats or as an extension level with my counters and be able to swivel the top over the counter height for storage. How much adjustment is possible with one mount. I can't find any drawings/specs on the Lagun site.
• Do you need to have the horizontal member above the counter to swivel the table or does the bracket provide enough clearance to rotate if it is lower than the counter top?
• The width of the backing plate may be problematic where I want to mount the table. One of the work arounds I am considering is mounting two sections of leg with the dowel pieces at heights for use over the seat and storage over the counter. Do you think this would work? Do you think the mount/unmount with this set up would be any more or less difficult than what you are trying to do with two brackets?

Thanks.

I have the mounts off now for the changes I'm making so can't measure for you, but my memory is that you can move it up and down only about 4 or so inches above or below the top and bottom edges of the mount. If the ratcheting handle that clamps the channel is much more than that the leg won't hold. If you look at the images I posted (67, 73, 84, and 87) you'll see the table in different heights and configurations.

There wasn't enough clearance to swivel the table with the table top lower than the countertop, so I added a piece of 1x4 between the mounts and my cabinet wall and that gave it enough clearance.

If I understand your workaround it would be to mount two legs at different heights without the mounting brackets. You would be lifting the table top on and off of the top dowel pin on each leg. If that's the case, you would lose the ability to adjust the height, but it would probably be a lot easier than sliding the table and leg on and off two different mounts for each position.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. It's definitely nice being able to mount the table over the countertop while driving. We really didn't want to have to find a place to store it.

 

[njvagabond]

Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. It's definitely nice being able to mount the table over the countertop while driving. We really didn't want to have to find a place to store it.

Yea, storing table tops (plural) is something I want to do. Since my galleys will framed with 8020, there are UMHW "linear" bearing that might work. Might work for you too if moving the table between the two brackets becomes too much hassle. Need to let the problem macerate. It will be quite a while before get to installing tables

 

[natecostello]

View attachment 150230

Are you bringing a propane line through the C-pillar? If so, can you elaborate on how you did this? I feel like I've seen others do this, but looking around under the van, its not obvious how/what modifications to the van are necessary. Thanks!

 

[EnviroProf]

I have three propane-fed appliances (stove, hot water heater, and Proper heater). I decided I wanted as many connections as possible outside the van so drilled three holes through the floor of the van below each of the appliances and ran individual lines to each. As the entire area was under cabinets, there was no need to use the C-pillar. After drilling and cutting so many holes, what's a few more?

 

[AzB]

Yea, storing table tops (plural) is something I want to do. Since my galleys will framed with 8020, there are UMHW "linear" bearing that might work. Might work for you too if moving the table between the two brackets becomes too much hassle. Need to let the problem macerate. It will be quite a while before get to installing tables

I just saw this. Not sure if this helps, but I wanted my table to store above the counter and still go low enough to be used with the swivel front seats. My attachment point is the cabinet right behind the driver's seat. I had to use two mounting brackets to get the height I needed, but it works well. I just stacked one mount directly above the other.

Hope this helps. If not, trundle on!

 

[njvagabond]

My attachment point is the cabinet right behind the driver's seat

Thanks. Where on the cabinet did you put the mount, by the wall or by the aisle?
I suppose a Lagun mount is one of those things to try and figure out with an actual unit in hand, but still always nice to know what other folk did.

 

[AzB]

Thanks. Where on the cabinet did you put the mount, by the wall or by the aisle?
I suppose a Lagun mount is one of those things to try and figure out with an actual unit in hand, but still always nice to know what other folk did.

On the cabinet wall directly behind the passenger seat, on the aisle side. You can also get a longer leg for the lagun table which would also give you a bit more adjustment. I tried it with one mount, and it was pretty close. My cabinet may be taller than yours though.

 

[EnviroProf]

I just saw this. Not sure if this helps, but I wanted my table to store above the counter and still go low enough to be used with the swivel front seats. My attachment point is the cabinet right behind the driver's seat. I had to use two mounting brackets to get the height I needed, but it works well. I just stacked one mount directly above the other.

Hope this helps. If not, trundle on!

Does your table adjust up and down fairly easily with that setup? That's exactly what I tried, but the leg kept binding with the two brackets stacked one on top of the other. I wonder if my setup wasn't stiff enough. I used a piece of 1x4 as a spacer between the brackets and the cabinet wall to allow the top joint to swivel. maybe I should add a piece of 1/4-inch thick aluminum plate to stiffen it.

 

[EnviroProf]

I'm back. It's unfortunate when jobs and life in general seem to delay van projects.

Spent the spring redesigning a few things that didn't work very well on its maiden voyage out west last summer. Redid my Lagun table mounts so they are side by side and at different heights. I previously had the two mounts in line with each other (see photo above), but it was too much friction and turned out to be a pain in the butt.

I also redid my gray water drain system. My original thought was that it would be nice to have a valve under the sink to divert gray water under the van when I didn't need to store it in the gray water tank. It plugged up by about week 5 last summer. The available outlet at the bottom of my gray water tank is only 1/2 inch ID, and between the Pex pipe and all the fittings and valves it was no bueno (see photo below). So, I replaced the plastic 90-degree fitting at the tank with a brass fitting, which probably opened the interior diameter by about 20%. From there, a clear hose goes down below the van, where I installed a simple garden hose valve. While not quite as handy as having a valve inside the van, I think it will work much better. It's sink water only, and we have a good drain strainer in place. If that doesn't do the trick I'll probably have to enlarge the outlet at the bottom of gray water tank. We'll see how it does this summer.

 

[Vanaroo]

Redid my Lagun table mounts so they are side by side and at different heights. I previously had the two mounts in line with each other (see photo above), but it was too much friction and turned out to be a pain in the butt.

I just love reading follow-up. Thank you!

Did you happen to notice that they now make a longer Lagun leg? It's 30" tall IIRC. That could solve the "go up high" problem; but I could imagine a case where it would then not allow the table to go low enough. Sounds like you solved your problem, but just wondered if you knew about the longer leg in case you might be interested in it at some point.

 

[EnviroProf]

The next big project has been finishing the ceiling. We chose to use shiplap for our ceiling. We liked the look of it and because it came in 12-ft boards, they stretch the full length of the van interior. The boards cover 1 1/2 inches of thinsulate insulation, and a layer of reflectex. The boards screw into 3/8 inch plywood ribs that I bolted to the four Transit ribs. I glued some leftover strips of 1/4 inch neoprene on the plywood ribs before installing the ceiling boards to try to avoid any squeaks and to allow room for the screw heads that went into the plusnuts. You will notice that the front two ceiling lights are the cool white, rather than the warm white. They are the new dome lights.

 

[EnviroProf]

I just love reading follow-up. Thank you!

Did you happen to notice that they now make a longer Lagun leg? It's 30" tall IIRC. That could solve the "go up high" problem; but I could imagine a case where it would then not allow the table to go low enough. Sounds like you solved your problem, but just wondered if you knew about the longer leg in case you might be interested in it at some point.

I didn't know that. That might do the trick nicely for some applications. My new mounts are pretty far apart because the top one has to clear the counter top (37 inches high) and the bottom one has to be at eating (and playing cards) height for the driver and passenger seats. I was really pushing the limits of the clamp with my previous setup.

 

[kenryan]

I'm back. It's unfortunate when jobs and life in general seem to delay van projects.

Spent the spring redesigning a few things that didn't work very well on its maiden voyage out west last summer. Redid my Lagun table mounts so they are side by side and at different heights. I previously had the two mounts in line with each other (see photo above), but it was too much friction and turned out to be a pain in the butt.

I also redid my gray water drain system. My original thought was that it would be nice to have a valve under the sink to divert gray water under the van when I didn't need to store it in the gray water tank. It plugged up by about week 5 last summer. The available outlet at the bottom of my gray water tank is only 1/2 inch ID, and between the Pex pipe and all the fittings and valves it was no bueno (see photo below). So, I replaced the plastic 90-degree fitting at the tank with a brass fitting, which probably opened the interior diameter by about 20%. From there, a clear hose goes down below the van, where I installed a simple garden hose valve. While not quite as handy as having a valve inside the van, I think it will work much better. It's sink water only, and we have a good drain strainer in place. If that doesn't do the trick I'll probably have to enlarge the outlet at the bottom of gray water tank. We'll see how it does this summer.

View attachment 173005

I have yet to actually install a grey water system, so this is my observations.

1. Fittings and elbows have a large negative effect on flow.
2, A garden hose valve (gate valve) may not be a good choice because it has rubber seals that can be easily damaged by the debris in the water.

 

[Vanaroo]

I see what you mean. Even a 30" leg might not cover both heights.

I somehow missed this on your first build posts, but could you explain how you put those "nailers" up for your shiplap overhead? Reason I ask is because it looks like they are alongside, rather than on the bottom surface of, the overhead ribs. Being a MR afficianado, every fraction of an inch counts.

I zoomed in on your photo showing them but can't quite work out how you attached them to the overhead ribs (?) (Most I see just attach them to the bottom of the ribs.)

 

[EnviroProf]

I see what you mean. Even a 30" leg might not cover both heights.

I somehow missed this on your first build posts, but could you explain how you put those "nailers" up for your shiplap overhead? Reason I ask is because it looks like they are alongside, rather than on the bottom surface of, the overhead ribs. Being a MR afficianado, every fraction of an inch counts.

I zoomed in on your photo showing them but can't quite work out how you attached them to the overhead ribs (?) (Most I see just attach them to the bottom of the ribs.)

Each of the 3/8 inch nailers are attached to the overhead van ribs with four plus nuts -- 1/4 inch bolts (with Phillips heads) and washers. I went with 3/8 inch ply because it needed to flex. Because they are so thin, however, I was worried about the type of screw I could use without bottoming out in the steel rib. So I cut the ply nailers about two inches wider than the ribs (I think about 5 inches total), so that I could use larger screws that would run through the plywood next to the steel ribs. I also thought the ply was too thin to countersink the screw heads and still hold well enough, so that's part of the reasoning for gluing the neoprene strip on the nailers next to the screw heads where the boards attach. The neoprene keeps the surface even across the length of the nailers.

Below is a photo before I glued the neoprene on.

 

[Vanaroo]

Aha - it's all clear now. I appreciate the extra detail because I was "seeing" it as something different. Thanks!

 

[EnviroProf]

About half way through the next big project -- overhead cabinets. Really looking forward to the additional storage space. For last summer's trip we bungeed some wire baskets to the upper walls, which worked surprisingly well, but the cabinets will definitely be a step up and almost double the storage. I've never built any type of upper cabinets before, so working with all the weird angles and shapes of the upper walls and ceiling has been challenging.

 

[orton]

I have yet to actually install a grey water system, so this is my observations.

1. Fittings and elbows have a large negative effect on flow.
2, A garden hose valve (gate valve) may not be a good choice because it has rubber seals that can be easily damaged by the debris in the water.

My 12 gallon grey tank is under van floor. I have a 1" OD SS tube 90 for a drain out the bottom of the tank. Did not want to restrict the flow with a valve. Have short 1" ID rubber hose from the tank drain to the edge of the van. Have a 1" expandable boat transom plug to close the end of the hose. Hose with plug sits on a plate. To drain I pull the hose off the plate and remove the plug.

Gray Water | Orton Travel Transit (ortontransit.info)

 

[EnviroProf]

Getting close to finishing and bolting up the upper cabinets. Pretty happy with the final results. Chose some old topo maps of Yellowstone -- my old stomping grounds. Also built a panel above the slider door and mounted the awning crank and a hat/coat rack. thought about leaving the big openings in the van wall above the door for storage, but not sure if it's worth it. We'll try this for a while and then decide. Haven't decided what to do with the upper wall areas in the back yet. That's probably a project for fall or next summer, as I begin driving west in three or four days.