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I found a 5.5 gallon Manchester 6813 10x23 tank for $404 free ship. That seems reasonable.

Reading about under van propane tanks, they require a 2 stage regulator. These seem to be for high pressure LP devices. My Camco Olympian Wave 3 specifically requires a low pressure LP regulator. Can I make this work?

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Whether trailer or motorized RV, if you are trying to supply internal appliances, you are supposed to have a 2-stage regulator. Per code. The 2nd stage takes the pressure down to 11 W.C. (= ~30 mBar = ~0.4 psi). The 1st stage takes it down from ~260 psi to ~ 10 psi, so the 2nd stage is not so “stressed.” You should check for yourself, but your Olympian is probably for 11 WC. The other common spec is for devices that work with the typical 1 lb green bottles...which have their own built-in regulator, and may therefore not be compatible with 11 WC input. With the right adaptor hose, these can be used directly off a larger tank (whether removable/exchangeable) or permanent-mount. The connection may be different, but the principle is the same. One reason these horizontal tanks are so expensive is they have internal plumbing for overfilling protection and gas vs liquid output. The removable ones just use gravity to keep the liquid propane (LP) on the bottom of the tank and the gaseous propane up near the top (where the valve is).




2015 Tall, Medium Length, Cargo, 3.5EB, pretty generic-looking, DIY camper
 
Nothing scientific, I never saw propane as having that much pressure, For the propane forklifts at work the propane just flows from the big 1,000 gallon tank to the smaller forklift tanks without pumping it. I have repaired leaks on the big tank and it never seemed to have that much pressure, And this was anytime during the year.
I have held liquid propane in my bare hands because gloves freeze instantly to your hands, If you work fast there is no harm done.
Plant maintenance where you are expected to repair everything they own. Nonsparking Bronze tools

My understanding from the instructions for my heater is you use a two stage regulator for multiple gas appliances, And a single stage regulator for just one appliance. My heater is Canadian.
 
Whether trailer or motorized RV, if you are trying to supply internal appliances, you are supposed to have a 2-stage regulator. Per code. The 2nd stage takes the pressure down to 11 W.C. (= ~30 mBar = ~0.4 psi). The 1st stage takes it down from ~260 psi to ~ 10 psi, so the 2nd stage is not so “stressed.” You should check for yourself, but your Olympian is probably for 11 WC. The other common spec is for devices that work with the typical 1 lb green bottles...which have their own built-in regulator, and may therefore not be compatible with 11 WC input. With the right adaptor hose, these can be used directly off a larger tank (whether removable/exchangeable) or permanent-mount. The connection may be different, but the principle is the same. One reason these horizontal tanks are so expensive is they have internal plumbing for overfilling protection and gas vs liquid output. The removable ones just use gravity to keep the liquid propane (LP) on the bottom of the tank and the gaseous propane up near the top (where the valve is).




2015 Tall, Medium Length, Cargo, 3.5EB, pretty generic-looking, DIY camper
I checked the Olympian manual, it does state 11 WC and the low pressure LP regulator requirement.

What confused me was when I looked up a common 2 stage regulator, under key features it stated regulator was suited for high pressure LP gas.

 
Hi pressure in, low pressure out. The one you linked to should work, or the one GoWesty sells. Hmmm, That company you linked to has an 8” tank, although 42” long. Not sure where that would fit, but it’s the only 8” I’ve seen other than those from goWesty. Maybe they could be talked into ordering a stubby one from Manchester that would fit between the stout lateral frame rails, tucked way up out of harms way. Doesn’t matter though, goWesty has those shorter sizes and neither dealer is “giving them away” ($$$$). There was a 10” on eBay for awhile for maybe $250 plus ship. Not sure if any left.


2015 Tall, Medium Length, Cargo, 3.5EB, pretty generic-looking, DIY camper
 
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Is the GoWesty the only 8" diameter horizontal undermount tank available? Their tank, regulator, level sensor and shipping is $735.

Their website says 5-7 business days just to process order.Not actually shipping it.

Maybe they have a free shipping promo code?
 
Last time I was on their site, there was a bunch of wording about “essential” vs “non-essential,” prioritizing, etc because of Covid. Anyway, good luck.

not sure where you’re at, but “old-fashioned” upfitters like Sportsmobile might sell you one if they have one, or maybe even Van Specialties, or try that Tarantin company I mentioned earlier.

My suspicion is there’s fair-to-high demand, and little supply, given the Covid. Just guessing though. Might be an uphill battle.

By the way, any virgin tank needs to be “purged” prior to filling, so that’s another expense. I haven’t gotten that far, so don’t know cost, but assume $30ish, plus the cost of the propane fill.

I can see why so many people “just say no” to propane.


2015 Tall, Medium Length, Cargo, 3.5EB, pretty generic-looking, DIY camper
 
I contacted Tarantin inquiring about their Manchester 6810, 8"x30" tank. They would not sell to me. They states the average consumer is not smart enough to install it and can only be purchased from them by a licensed professional.

I settled on the readily available manchester 10"x23" model 6813. It was $431 total shipped and will be here tomorrow.
 
By the way, any virgin tank needs to be “purged” prior to filling, so that’s another expense. I haven’t gotten that far, so don’t know cost, but assume $30ish, plus the cost of the propane fill.
I think I called every propane supplier within 50 miles today. None said they can purge a tank, most had no idea what I was asking. That's Georgia for you. I'm going to make a LP purge kit and do it myself.

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My boss said the tanks on the propane forklifts need to purged once a year because the air that gets in the tank causes the tanks to hold less and less propane as time goes by. He never showed me how to do it because he did it himself.
They ran those tanks dry every time so I guess a little air got in the tank each time.
 
I've looked at purging info online and seen that video. While it may work ok with a vertical tank, a horizontal tank (or any tank) is best purged with vapor only, never liquid propane.

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Thanks again to DaveinSeattle; am putting the same GoWesty tank in the same place. GoWesty is near me and I picked it up last week: $715. The Manchester 6813 these days is $699- just another example of inflation alive and well. Most shops want nothing to do with installing it, citing liability or needed a Housing Authority permit! I preferred the guy who just hung up. GoWesty hasn't worked on cars for over four years now- they are just a parts house these days. They did suggest a muffler shop they know and they quoted $200. Will be going in next week for that. Some stuff I'll do- not that though. Am using tank solely to run a Propex HS2800 and will install a quick-connect to run an outside grill or fire pit.
 

Worked perfectly. I did convert the two autofill valve to conventional valving. No issues!
that looks almost exactly like a Manchester tank, rebranded maybe? So the pressure sending unit failed on my Manchester tank from go Westy. a five dollar part on a $700 tank. And no way to repair it. I’m wondering if the dimensions of this tank would make it a drop in replacement? Can you provide the dimensions between the outer edges of the two flanges, and the dimensions of the flanges themselves?
 
that looks almost exactly like a Manchester tank, rebranded maybe? So the pressure sending unit failed on my Manchester tank from go Westy. a five dollar part on a $700 tank. And no way to repair it....
What is a "pressure sending unit"?
Every part on a Manchester that isn't welded to the tank can be repaired/replaced. If I understood what the part is I probably can point you towards a good source of repair parts.
 
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What is a "pressure sending unit"?
Every part on a Manchester that isn't welded to the tank can be repaired/replaced. If I understood what the part is I probably can point you towards a good source of repair parts.
I spoke to both gowesty and manchester and they indicated that the pressure sender was not field serviceable. the unit is located on the left side of the tank, with two wires coming out. i’d love to know if that’s wrong.
 
that looks almost exactly like a Manchester tank, rebranded maybe? So the pressure sending unit failed on my Manchester tank from go Westy. a five dollar part on a $700 tank. And no way to repair it. I’m wondering if the dimensions of this tank would make it a drop in replacement? Can you provide the dimensions between the outer edges of the two flanges, and the dimensions of the flanges themselves?
The tank in the link is made in Mexico by Armebe. The sensor on it is a level sensor not pressure. A pressure sensor on a proane tank would pretty worthless as the pressure is pretty constant until the tank is nearly empty. Pretty sure your Manchester tank will be a level sensor (basically a float attached to an arm) and should be serviceable. For starters, you need to figure out if the failure is the float mechanism or the magnetic coupled potentiometer that the wires are connected to.
 
@DaveInSeattle are you talking about this part? (Red arrows in picture below)

It's the only thing I am familiar with on the left side that has two wires. It's a remote that allows your monitor to read the tank level.

If YES, it's a snap on gauge. It has two plastic tabs that hold it onto the tank port.

Easily replaceable. I'm trying to remember where I got mine. @pbethel could tell you though if thats what your problem is.

if its the float arm that measures the level inside the tank, as @Blur Rider and Paul mention, its also serviceable, just a little more involved.

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