Was the van plugged into shore power (plugged into an outside AC electrical source)?

One thing I'd adjust is that input current limit. I doubt you have 50 amp service to the van. Crank it down to 13 as you're probably plugged into just a normal house 110v 15amp outlet. Otherwise you'll keep popping the shower power circuit breaker.

Try turning off the multiplus via the rocker switch.
Then turn off all your AC circuit breakers to isolate it as much as possible.
Then try turning it back on.
Stare at the LED's on the front of the multiplus also and see if you can discern any pattern (I usually use a phone to video record such things during power up so I don't miss something and can review a few times).
If it comes back on, try turning on each AC breaker one at a time - you might have a short on one of them.

 

Chubby will do and report right back 😁

 

Everything @OldChubbyKnuckle said. Especially the short... that seems likely/possible.

As he asks, did you have it plugged in to shore power? Ever?

 

Everything @OldChubbyKnuckle said. Especially the short... that seems likely/possible.

As he asks, did you have it plugged in to shore power? Ever?

The system has been plugged into shore power successfully in the past. However at the time of the incident - plugging the Shop Vac into 120V it was not connected to shore power. The MultiPlus II was set to "inverter only" at the time.
I diligently powered everything off and back on again.
The screen repeated the same warning. "Warning Invertor Overload" see photos. There is a smell of burnt electrics from the area of the Multi Plus II, there is no sign of melted wires or a a broken fuse, the 120 V breakers did not trip at the 120 V fuse box. I tried additionally turning off at the Multi Plus II the rocker switch. I pray the Multi Plus II is not fried!!!!!!! HELP!!!

the

 

Disconnect the 120VAC outputs on the Multiplus. I know it's likely a pain... but do it. Then see if it gets the error with no wires connected (except the DC and signals).

 

"Disconnect the 120VAC outputs on the Multiplus. I know it's likely a pain..."

This is an UNDERSTATEMENT, I will try, but want to state that whoever at Victron designed the "push in fit " connectors over the "screw in fit" connectors should be publicly horse whipped and doused with salt water.

They are soooooo difficult in a cramped space like a van!!!

Rant over, thank you Greg and Chubby!

 

This has really good tips on the Multiplus AC connectors and when you need to push and when not to.

 

Yes I saw this video and it's super helpful, however to do this I need to man handle the Multi out of the Featherlight (Explorist Life) cabinet and shoe horn it back in again. Rhymes with witch!!!

Would disconnecting the other end of the cable have the same effect (I believe it goes over to my 120V fuse box)??? Keeping the ends of the 3 big fat wires still connected to the Multi is a huge benefit for me.

 

...
They are soooooo difficult in a cramped space like a van!!!
...

Facts.

Only way I'd be able to remove those on our 2020 with the Multiplus-1 would be to remove the unit. The way I'm mounting the Multiplus-2 in the 2023... maybe? But it would be a knuckle-wrecking hassle, for sure.

...
Would disconnecting the other end of the cable have the same effect (I believe it goes over to my 120V fuse box)??? Keeping the ends of the 3 big fat wires still connected to the Multi is a huge benefit for me.

In theory... yes. But, as I often say, in theory, theory and practice are the same; in practice, they are not.

It's unlikely, but given the situation you're in, I'd say your next-step if these doesn't help isolate and resolve the issue is to replace the Multiplus. So... think of this as like a, "Murphy's law," sort of thing... by going to the hassle maybe it improves the chances that this is NOT the problem. 😄

Seriously, as remote as the chances are of it being the wires themselves - and that the alternative is going to be replacing the Multiplus - I'd take the time to strip it down to nothing.


Let us know what you find.

 

Facts.

Only way I'd be able to remove those on our 2020 with the Multiplus-1 would be to remove the unit. The way I'm mounting the Multiplus-2 in the 2023... maybe? But it would be a knuckle-wrecking hassle, for sure.



In theory... yes. But, as I often say, in theory, theory and practice are the same; in practice, they are not.

It's unlikely, but given the situation you're in, I'd say your next-step if these doesn't help isolate and resolve the issue is to replace the Multiplus. So... think of this as like a, "Murphy's law," sort of thing... by going to the hassle maybe it improves the chances that this is NOT the problem. 😄

Seriously, as remote as the chances are of it being the wires themselves - and that the alternative is going to be replacing the Multiplus - I'd take the time to strip it down to nothing.


Let us know what you find.

Thank you, will report back!!!

 

No main breaker on the output of the multiplus? I would think just turning off the breaker would good enough. You do need to manually switch it off to reset the overload fault. What other loads then the VAC did you have on?

 

Scalf, thank you helping here. Excuse me if I am not using the correct terms I a not a professional.

The output wire from the MultiPlus II goes to a 120V fuse box with a 50 amp trip fuse. I only have one line coming out of the 120V fuse Box (have not yet set up any other runs) and that has a 20 amp trip fuse. This is the line that I plugged the Shop Vac into and had the issue.

"You do need to manually switch it off to reset the overload fault" is this the small rocker with at the bottom of the MultiPlus II? if yes I have done this, will do again!! If no where is it?

"What other loads then the VAC did you have on?" No other loads, 12v or 120V. As stated above I only have one 120v line.

To reitterate the van was NOT plugged into shore power, no fuse blew that I can see and no rocker switches tripped.

I am wary of trying the turn the MultiPlus II from "Off" to "Inverter On" for fear of not clearing the "fault".

Anyone have any experience with clearing the "fault"?

 

Generally an overload in inverter mode indicates that you can not produce enough power for the expected load. This would be having to many things plugged in. Being that you don't have this , it could be that you don't have enough battery power to handle the load. This could be caused by low battery voltage, bad cabling, etc.

I expect that you have unplugged the offending Shop Vac, but you could also turn off the 50 amp breaker (fuse) .

A soft reset is done by turning off (middle position) the toggle switch, waiting 30 secs and then turn back on, you can choose to go to charger only mode if you like, but at some time you need to bring the inverter back.

You will want to look at the LED's of screen that showed State = Fault. The Notifications are time stamped and may need to cleared out separately.

A hard reset would be doing the above and also disconnecting any DC incoming power ( Battery Disconnect switch).

If that doesn't get rid of fault then I would definitely remove incoming and outgoing power. Yes, it would need to be at the unit.

Look at the whole DC path from battery to inverter for any issues also.

As mentioned by @OldChubbyKnuckle a picture of the fault LED's would be nice also.

 

Generally an overload in inverter mode indicates that you can not produce enough power for the expected load. This would be having to many things plugged in. Being that you don't have this , it could be that you don't have enough battery power to handle the load. This could be caused by low battery voltage, bad cabling, etc.

I expect that you have unplugged the offending Shop Vac, but you could also turn off the 50 amp breaker (fuse) .

A soft reset is done by turning off (middle position) the toggle switch, waiting 30 secs and then turn back on, you can choose to go to charger only mode if you like, but at some time you need to bring the inverter back.

You will want to look at the LED's of screen that showed State = Fault. The Notifications are time stamped and may need to cleared out separately.

A hard reset would be doing the above and also disconnecting any DC incoming power ( Battery Disconnect switch).

If that doesn't get rid of fault then I would definitely remove incoming and outgoing power. Yes, it would need to be at the unit.

Look at the whole DC path from battery to inverter for any issues also.

As mentioned by @OldChubbyKnuckle a picture of the fault LED's would be nice also.

Hi Scalf, Thank you for this detailed help, I am currently away from the van for work. Upon return I will follow your diagnostic steps and report back. Thank you again.