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Not sure if you came here just to put Nomadic on blast, which is totally fair, but where do you live? Can you jam a thermometer into the outlet and measure the outlet temperature vs ambient?

I have a similar unit (self-imported, not branded Nomadic) and while the airflow is definitely not great, I tested it to 45 degrees at the outlet vs 78 deg ambient (33 degree differential), which is pretty fair. Depending on the relative humidity, most cars are built to cool somewhere between 35-50 degrees below ambient, while most home units are sized to provide only a 15-20 degree differential. If can get get good temperature differential at the unit, you can "help" it by adding a small fan inside the van to circulate air, which is where my unit is the weakest. Insulation helps too.

If you think the unit isn't functioning to spec, any car mechanic can run through the standard diagnostic procedure, or you can buy the $100 gauge set if you're mechanically inclined. The procedure is exactly the same, and the high and low pressure service ports even the same. Good luck.
I wanted to add input to a conversation that was lacking in clear answers from people who'd actually used the product - not to bash a particular brand. I made the decision to install one based on the limited data available at the time of my build and wish I had gone a different way. I would hope someone else with a similar experience would do the same (saving others the trouble of making their same costly mistake). I did also say that I expected the other DC units to have similar performance at best given their lower BTU claims.

So, maybe I should have added more detail about how we tested the unit to be a little more fair. Here was our methodology:

Preface: We got the unit in hopes of staying reasonably cool during warm (not ridiculously hot) days while working and charging to offset the run cost. Nights are usually not an issue, and we don't typically want to run it through the night while receiving no charge (obviously there could be exceptions, but this wasn't our primary desired use case), so it's not what we tested.

We were ALWAYS in the sun during our primary tests. We wanted to charge while using the most power hungry product onboard in our van. So, that is probably a critical factor in helping folks decide if it's worth it for them. You could potentially offset this if you had non-stationary solar panels (unlike us) and could park in the shade while still charging - or if you drive enough to stay topped off, this might not matter so much. For us, not charging while using this all day was unsustainable, and our solar array is fixed.

We tested the unit at high 70s in the sun (the circumstances we had hoped to use it in). This proved to be an ineffective use of the unit. The temperature of the air it puts out was not what we cared about, so we didn't measure it (that data is available on the unit's display though). What we cared about was whether the unit had any meaningful impact on the overall living space temperature under those specific conditions. The answer to that question (in our rig at least) is definitively no.

The only variables we adjusted for each test were windows open/closed and roof vent on/off. So there were 4 experiments and a control (fan on max, windows open, AC off). We ran each for about an hour under similar weather conditions. The best results came from running the vent full blast with the windows open. Whether the AC was running had no impact whatsoever.

Night time usage is obviously different, when the cab is not actively warmer than the outdoors due to the sun, you will get measurable results from running the unit, but that's not a scenario we've needed it for so far, as the nights have been cool enough for us to get by without it. Also, it's pretty loud even on eco mode. It makes a high pitched whining/whirring sound. If you're a white noise person, maybe it wouldn't impact your sleep, but I like to sleep in the quiet, so if that's the reason you're getting it, that's another consideration. We may do a repeat of the exact tests we already performed in the near future but in shade and also monitor consumption.

To summarize. It's probably working to spec. It just isn't effective for the use case we had hoped it would be. If you plan to use it in the shade, at night, in a smaller rig, or in some other application that's materially different than our desired use case under our test conditions, your mileage may vary. We've just found that for our purposes, keeping the windows open and running the fan, or just working outside under the awning are more effective ways to stay cool during those times even at modest temperatures (high 70s in our tests like I mentioned) if it is sunny.

So, hopefully that's a more fair representation of the product from our experience. To close, I'm not saying nobody could get use out of it, but it didn't work as we'd hoped. It's also just a very expensive product for having such a limited range of uses in my opinion.
 
After watching this video showing the Dometic RTX 2000 in a van with an uncovered slider window, front cab exposed, no insulation in back doors, something must be wrong with your Nomadic Cooling unit or it simply doesn't perform to spec. Your unit should be performing much better than the unit in this video.

 
After watching this video showing the Dometic RTX 2000 in a van with an uncovered slider window, front cab exposed, no insulation in back doors, something must be wrong with your Nomadic Cooling unit or it simply doesn't perform to spec. Your unit should be performing much better than the unit in this video.

Again, the biggest difference between his test circumstances and mine is the sun. He mentioned right at the beginning that he's testing the unit in the shade. He's also probably in a short wheelbase, so less internal volume to cool. He also mentioned that by the time he measured the 77 degrees toward the end of the test it was only 84 degrees outside.

So, he was about 7 degrees below external temperature after an hour in the shade (which I don't think is all that impressive, but again, realistic expectations and desired use case are a big part of this, so I acknowledge that I may have came in a little optimistic). He mentions later a further internal temperature drop using the "boost" mode, but he doesn't say what the external temperature then is, so it's impossible to guess the performance unless I missed something in the video.

I bet (but don't know for sure, because I have not tested this scenario) that mine could perform similarly under those conditions. I may post an update here soon in case folks are interested.

The point I was making earlier is that even if the outside temperature is in the high 70's, the internal temp of the van will be easily high 90's or more on a sunny day after several hours of sitting in the sun. My Nomadic 3000 unit DID keep the van down to about ~84 degrees in the windows closed tests (it was roughly ~76 degrees outside), which is better than high 90's for sure.. But opening the windows and cranking the vent fan kept it below 80 (roughly 2-3 degrees above outside temps). Which was better than the AC's performance. Therefore, in the sun, on a warm sunny day, the AC effectively becomes irrelevant.

Note: Our cab is also not separated, but we did have reflective shades up for the tests.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
I think these 12 volt air conditioners will never replace the vehicles 30 K btu air conditioning system but I think that if someone pre-cooled their van with the vehicle air conditioner or used both then switched to the 12 volt air conditioner it would keep the temp comfortable.
 
The unit I have is the Nomadic 3000 12 v in my sprinter 2500 144 reg roof this is for my work van and if your not right under it blowing on you works until you have to move away from it and it like not even having ac for the rest of van and it is insulated if I was to do it over again, spend the money on the batteries and get more power with the 120 rooftop AC this is in Florida tho and now only a year into it. AC is having problems sent the new control panel still doesn’t work. They are trying to figure it out as we speak way to find out the hard way. Once again, we have to upgrade it especially if they can’t fix the problem once again only a little over a year old talk about a talk about throwing money away and got charged for new control that was said to have problems with some and still having same problem so it’s not the control hope the refund for the control
 
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