How many watt hours of battery are you planning?

 

5kWh battery (48v 100Ah)

 

Real world, stable scenarios in full weather type conditions:
~ 1500 - 1600 watts from dual factory alternators
~ 3000 - 3500 watts from 48 volt alternators

24 volt is potentially more stable.

There is an extensive thread on the forum on 24 volt alternator setups.

It is easy to burn up 1 kw of that power running an air conditioner and some misc so it makes perfect sense to want more power. There is a lot of heat under the hood on a hot day so it is a factor.

 

Define real world stable?

I pull 1350w off a single alternator, real world stable. So I don’t understand 1600w off the duals, 150a(2100w) should be do able no problem.

 

no solar input planned.
I was trying to see if anyone out there actually achieve 2160w in real world scenario.

 

I am also pulling about 1350w off a single HD alternator. I'm a weekend warrior, maybe 100 hours of this load by now so don't take this as proof of long term alternator life span.
DC-AC-DC into 10kwh of 48v rack mounts like the ones you've linked. I've limited current by setting multiplus charger to 10 amp input (@120v)
I definitely get voltage drop at idle so I usually turn off charging when I'm in traffic. If I can avoid it, I don't charge when I'm running any high vehicle loads like headlights+AC or heat on high.

 

I am also pulling about 1350w off a single HD alternator. I'm a weekend warrior, maybe 100 hours of this load by now so don't take this as proof of long term alternator life span.
DC-AC-DC into 10kwh of 48v rack mounts like the ones you've linked. I've limited current by setting multiplus charger to 10 amp input (@120v)
I definitely get voltage drop at idle so I usually turn off charging when I'm in traffic. If I can avoid it, I don't charge when I'm running any high vehicle loads like headlights+AC or heat on high.

@Eli_W,
How much of the 1350w was lost due to converting from DC-AC-DC ?
IOW how many watts is going into your 48v battery?

I guess your setup is similar to DC-AC-DC electrical system design review | Ford Transit USA Forum ?

 

Pretty sure @BadWolf is the king of power pulled from dual-factory-alternators. And he's getting over 2kW - closer to 2.5kW at peak, IIRC. As you're suggesting, that's with a mix of 2-3 different charging methods. But it proves that it is possible.

BEMM suggests the factory alts shouldn't pull too much for too long... you'll have to decide what specs you want to follow.

Another option to consider is to combine the DC-AC setup with DC-DC - feeding 120VAC into the Ecoworthy simultaneously with 48VDC. Just another (less expensive) way to get the power in there.

 

CCP1 with 50a fuse, combined with CCP2 with 160a fuse, to a single 2000W inverter, in a DC-AC-DC setup, could on paper achieve 2520w draw from the alternator.

If the DC-AC leg is at 90% efficiency, and the AC-DC leg is also at 90% efficiency, then 2040w should get to the 48v battery.

How much of this 2520w is lost before going into the 48v battery in real world setting is the question?

Looking at the DC-AC-DC option, it should achieve similar wattage compared to the B2B option. The total cost of the DC-AC-DC option would be $1,300 lower, mainly be due to the BB1248120 and BB124865 ($1,540=950+590) which is replace by the 2000W inverter (~$250)

 

I followed @gregoryx's lead with the 2200w Giandel. No complaints on performance but the momentary button press for on/off on the remote is fiddly to use and is just enough of a barrier to keep me from playing with automating it.
Yes, AIO. It feeds a 3kva Multiplus II. Probably would have bought the 5kva if it was out back then but the 3kva has no problem running induction burner and microwave at the same time, what a time to be alive.
Multiplus has easily configured input current limit. I have turned it up to 15 amps during extended freeway driving but the interface on the phone is more than I want to mess with while driving in traffic. Bought the physical remote panel for the multi because it has a nice manual knob to adjust input limit. It's still sitting in the box because 10 amp set-and-forget limit has been fine for my use.

Under construction:

 

This was the most ive been able to pull off the dual, was maxing out my setup. The two 1/0 alternator wires were getting pretty warm too.

3x 50amp +1x 100amp current limiter.

This was also what the shunt was seeing so add another 7% for what i was pulling off the oem duals.

i don’t recommend using ccp1, i gave up trying to find that fuse, plus i don’t like having an exposed hot lug.

 

@BadWolf, are you getting all 250a from CCP2 only?
could you please share more details of your setup, like what components and how they are wired?

 

CCP is always hot. CCP2 has load shedding and times out. They shouldn't be connected. There's plenty to read about the CCPs.

The batteries are wired to act as one storage unit in a starting circuit. Only one CCP is a direct connection. The other is controlled by smart alternator logic.

 

Best Approach IMO, if stacking chargers you have to have devices that communicate.

I'm not a fan of DC>AC>DC because when you need power the most its for Cooling/AC and multiplus are space heaters, you have to combat. My Multiplus exhaust goes right into my HVAC intake.

12v - stack up to 4x 50A Orions XS
DC>AC>DC works with 12v mutiplus makes sooo much heat, its a ~1,000btu space heater.

24v - stack upto 4x 1400 Orion XS (they are only 700w output if either side is 12v)
DC>AC>DC works with 24v mutiplus makes heat, its a ~500btu space heater

48v - DC>AC>DC - 5kw multi/quattro and a 5kw inverter connected directly to the bus bar under the driver seat.
When using DC>AC>DC you want the charging to be at 50% capacity to be at max efficiency (minimum waste heat)

 

does anyone here have any experience with these? J1772 to NEMA converters
plug into an EV charging station and get 15A out, then plug into AC input of your 240V capable battery charger to get 3300W....wow that would be awesome.

BOQNZN J1772 to NEMA 5-15 Plug, EV Conversion Socket for E-Bike Scooter One Wheel : Amazon.ca: Sports & Outdoors

these YT seems to show it's very possible....

World's Smallest EV Station Charging Adapter, J1772 to Nema 5-15 Plug – Alien Rides

 

A Level 2 charger operates at a voltage of 208 or 240 volts AC in North America, similar to the voltage used for large appliances like electric dryers and ovens. This 240-volt supply provides a much faster charging speed than Level 1 (120-volt) chargers, making Level 2 chargers an excellent option for home and public charging

 

 

@armcc, is this your build? if 'yes' care to share some of the innards?