[Panman]

not considering aftermarket 2nd alternators, what is the fastest wattage achieved in your real world scenario?

the best on paper wattage I can think of would be roughly 2160 watt, achieved by tapping into CCP1 with Sterling BB124865 60A fuse (720 W) and CCP2 with Sterling BB1248120 120A fuse (1440 W)

for a 5kWh system, the major components using Ecoflow PK 2 and Nations 48V alternator with Wakespeed regulator would cost around $12,000.
using Ford, Ecoworthy and Sterlings would cost around $4,000.

although alternator charging with EF would be 2x faster but also 3x the price.
non-EF option would be much more modular and easier to swap components.

 

[walwalka]

How many watt hours of battery are you planning?

 

[Panman]

How many watt hours of battery are you planning?

5kWh battery (48v 100Ah)

 

[walwalka]

5kWh battery (48v 100Ah)

With that little amount of battery, do you need more than 2000w of charging?

5000wh/2160w=2.3h, that’s not a lot of time to charge a battery from dead to full. Add in any solar and it’s reduces it further.

 

[harryn]

Real world, stable scenarios in full weather type conditions:
~ 1500 - 1600 watts from dual factory alternators
~ 3000 - 3500 watts from 48 volt alternators

24 volt is potentially more stable.

There is an extensive thread on the forum on 24 volt alternator setups.

It is easy to burn up 1 kw of that power running an air conditioner and some misc so it makes perfect sense to want more power. There is a lot of heat under the hood on a hot day so it is a factor.

 

[Panman]

no solar input planned.
I was trying to see if anyone out there actually achieve 2160w in real world scenario.

 

[walwalka]

Real world, stable scenarios in full weather type conditions:
~ 1500 - 1600 watts from dual factory alternators
~ 3000 - 3500 watts from 48 volt alternators

24 volt is potentially more stable.

There is an extensive thread on the forum on 24 volt alternator setups.

It is easy to burn up 1 kw of that power running an air conditioner and some misc so it makes perfect sense to want more power. There is a lot of heat under the hood on a hot day so it is a factor.

Define real world stable?

I pull 1350w off a single alternator, real world stable. So I don’t understand 1600w off the duals, 150a(2100w) should be do able no problem.

 

[Panman]

Define real world stable?

I pull 1350w off a single alternator, real world stable. So I don’t understand 1600w off the duals, 150a(2100w) should be do able no problem.

@walwalka just curious, what charger and fuse are you using pulling 1350w? off of CCP2?

 

[Eli_W]

I am also pulling about 1350w off a single HD alternator. I'm a weekend warrior, maybe 100 hours of this load by now so don't take this as proof of long term alternator life span.
DC-AC-DC into 10kwh of 48v rack mounts like the ones you've linked. I've limited current by setting multiplus charger to 10 amp input (@120v)
I definitely get voltage drop at idle so I usually turn off charging when I'm in traffic. If I can avoid it, I don't charge when I'm running any high vehicle loads like headlights+AC or heat on high.

 

[Panman]

I am also pulling about 1350w off a single HD alternator. I'm a weekend warrior, maybe 100 hours of this load by now so don't take this as proof of long term alternator life span.
DC-AC-DC into 10kwh of 48v rack mounts like the ones you've linked. I've limited current by setting multiplus charger to 10 amp input (@120v)
I definitely get voltage drop at idle so I usually turn off charging when I'm in traffic. If I can avoid it, I don't charge when I'm running any high vehicle loads like headlights+AC or heat on high.

@Eli_W,
How much of the 1350w was lost due to converting from DC-AC-DC ?
IOW how many watts is going into your 48v battery?

I guess your setup is similar to DC-AC-DC electrical system design review | Ford Transit USA Forum ?

 

[Eli_W]

@Eli_W,
How much of the 1350w was lost due to converting from DC-AC-DC ?
IOW how many watts is going into your 48v battery?

I'm seeing about 1050w at my batteries. 1350 is just my estimate for load on the vehicle side. Have not bothered putting the clamp meter on the alternator cable at this lower charge rate. I did a little experimenting with a 150a draw off the alternator at idle and it did not seem sustainable.

 

[walwalka]

@walwalka just curious, what charger and fuse are you using pulling 1350w? off of CCP2?

I’m on a 24v setup, so I use the Orion XS 1400s. I’ve got a single run of 2/0 from CCP2 with a 150a mega fuse at the seat. The 2/0 is overkill, but I was upgrading what I had and figured too much wore is better than not enough.

I see 1350w on the output of the those two charger almost all the time outside of idle. Idle is good for 1100w but I use Victron Engine Shutdown Detection to automatically throttle the chargers. This has worked so well I’m considering adding a third Orion just to experiment, I maintain 14v with both charger on above 1000 engine RPM.

 

[gregoryx]

not considering aftermarket 2nd alternators, what is the fastest wattage achieved in your real world scenario?

the best on paper wattage I can think of would be roughly 2160 watt, achieved by tapping into CCP1 with Sterling BB124865 60A fuse (720 W) and CCP2 with Sterling BB1248120 120A fuse (1440 W)

for a 5kWh system, the major components using Ecoflow PK 2 and Nations 48V alternator with Wakespeed regulator would cost around $12,000.
using Ford, Ecoworthy and Sterlings would cost around $4,000.

although alternator charging with EF would be 2x faster but also 3x the price.
non-EF option would be much more modular and easier to swap components.

Pretty sure @BadWolf is the king of power pulled from dual-factory-alternators. And he's getting over 2kW - closer to 2.5kW at peak, IIRC. As you're suggesting, that's with a mix of 2-3 different charging methods. But it proves that it is possible.

BEMM suggests the factory alts shouldn't pull too much for too long... you'll have to decide what specs you want to follow.

Another option to consider is to combine the DC-AC setup with DC-DC - feeding 120VAC into the Ecoworthy simultaneously with 48VDC. Just another (less expensive) way to get the power in there.

 

[Panman]

Pretty sure @BadWolf is the king of power pulled from dual-factory-alternators. And he's getting over 2kW - closer to 2.5kW at peak, IIRC. As you're suggesting, that's with a mix of 2-3 different charging methods. But it proves that it is possible.

BEMM suggests the factory alts shouldn't pull too much for too long... you'll have to decide what specs you want to follow.

Another option to consider is to combine the DC-AC setup with DC-DC - feeding 120VAC into the Ecoworthy simultaneously with 48VDC. Just another (less expensive) way to get the power in there.

CCP1 with 50a fuse, combined with CCP2 with 160a fuse, to a single 2000W inverter, in a DC-AC-DC setup, could on paper achieve 2520w draw from the alternator.

If the DC-AC leg is at 90% efficiency, and the AC-DC leg is also at 90% efficiency, then 2040w should get to the 48v battery.

How much of this 2520w is lost before going into the 48v battery in real world setting is the question?

Looking at the DC-AC-DC option, it should achieve similar wattage compared to the B2B option. The total cost of the DC-AC-DC option would be $1,300 lower, mainly be due to the BB1248120 and BB124865 ($1,540=950+590) which is replace by the 2000W inverter (~$250)

 

[Eli_W]

The total cost of the DC-AC-DC option would be $1,300 lower, mainly be due to the BB1248120 and BB124865 ($1,540=950+590) which is replace by the 2000W inverter (~$250)

That $1300 saved could be used to double your battery capacity but I don't know what your use case or expected daily consumption is.
I've got an all electric build out (no air conditioning) If I'm only out 4 days I leave home fully topped off and don't need to run vehicle charging at all. Longer trips out, the 10kwh buffer goes a long way with just catching little bits of charging during round town drives to extend it out.

 

[Panman]

That $1300 saved could be used to double your battery capacity but I don't know what your use case or expected daily consumption is.
I've got an all electric build out (no air conditioning) If I'm only out 4 days I leave home fully topped off and don't need to run vehicle charging at all. Longer trips out, the 10kwh buffer goes a long way with just catching little bits of charging during round town drives to extend it out.

@Eli_W, 'yes', I agree on that extra battery.

what's your DC-AC inverter?
what's your AC-DC charger, is it an AIO?
how do you ensure that the charger doesn't draw more amps than the inverter and /or the alternator fuses can support?

do you have any photos to share?

 

[Sams stock van]

CCP1 with 50a fuse, combined with CCP2 with 160a fuse, to a single 2000W inverter, in a DC-AC-DC setup, could on paper achieve 2520w draw from the alternator.

If the DC-AC leg is at 90% efficiency, and the AC-DC leg is also at 90% efficiency, then 2040w should get to the 48v battery.

How much of this 2520w is lost before going into the 48v battery in real world setting is the question?

Looking at the DC-AC-DC option, it should achieve similar wattage compared to the B2B option. The total cost of the DC-AC-DC option would be $1,300 lower, mainly be due to the BB1248120 and BB124865 ($1,540=950+590) which is replace by the 2000W inverter (~$250)

You can't combine the two ccps to a single inverter. The two CCP operate differently. You would need two devices to charge from both ccps.

 

[Eli_W]

I followed @gregoryx's lead with the 2200w Giandel. No complaints on performance but the momentary button press for on/off on the remote is fiddly to use and is just enough of a barrier to keep me from playing with automating it.
Yes, AIO. It feeds a 3kva Multiplus II. Probably would have bought the 5kva if it was out back then but the 3kva has no problem running induction burner and microwave at the same time, what a time to be alive.
Multiplus has easily configured input current limit. I have turned it up to 15 amps during extended freeway driving but the interface on the phone is more than I want to mess with while driving in traffic. Bought the physical remote panel for the multi because it has a nice manual knob to adjust input limit. It's still sitting in the box because 10 amp set-and-forget limit has been fine for my use.

Under construction:

 

[BadWolf]

This was the most ive been able to pull off the dual, was maxing out my setup. The two 1/0 alternator wires were getting pretty warm too.

3x 50amp +1x 100amp current limiter.

This was also what the shunt was seeing so add another 7% for what i was pulling off the oem duals.

i don’t recommend using ccp1, i gave up trying to find that fuse, plus i don’t like having an exposed hot lug.

 

[Panman]

View attachment 231687
This was the most ive been able to pull off the dual, was maxing out my setup. The two 1/0 alternator wires were getting pretty warm too.

3x 50amp +1x 100amp current limiter.

This was also what the shunt was seeing so add another 7% for what i was pulling off the oem duals.

i don’t recommend using ccp1, i gave up trying to find that fuse, plus i don’t like having an exposed hot lug.

@BadWolf, are you getting all 250a from CCP2 only?
could you please share more details of your setup, like what components and how they are wired?