[belloinsella]

In your pic below you I boxed in red an area I assume that by the time you took the pic you had already pulled the outside jump seat rail out and put the bolts back in yes?

Is all that black plastic under the floor board simply rigid support for the floor? Are they hollow and/or fillable with insulation? I know the long continuos one is the heating duct.

Also is everything that is under the floor board in this pic essentially what is under there stock or is any of that foam/insulation blocks added by you?

-The area in the red box is where I removed the jump seat tracks and then put the bolt back in the floor to cover the hole. I could see the ground through it.
-The black styrofoam is rigid floor support I believe. It's not hollow. I did realize later that the rear seat rails could be used as anchor points for tying things down, and I did notice a few spots in the floor felt soft. Maybe the rails do add some rigidity to the floor. Everything in there is stock besides that white foam you can see in later photos. That's Thinsulate I added because I had extra. I doubt it will help much.

 

[belloinsella]

Did the thickness of the Hushmat (.125-inch I believe assuming you can lay it down smoothly) add any difficulties in getting everything to mate back down well?

No problems at all. Everything went down flat. I used a Hushmat rubber roller to get spots to lay flat, but even still it was fine.

 

[belloinsella]

I got a vinyl floor from a Transit Van and got it installed today, on top of the factory carpet floor.

First I cut some plastic sheeting I had in the garage and screwed them into the floor, covering the holes where seat tracks were removed.

The felt/denim came off the vinyl easily and it fits pretty good in a wagon. I did trim around the blower motor in the rear and a few pillar trim panels. Then I cut holes for the two rows of seats and a few vents. The front tucks under the black trim piece that runs behind both driver and passenger seats. This had to be cut down to fit. There was one spot that didn't match up: at the back of the step trim. It was short but I don't really care.

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[richards]

In the photo of the floor on it side, did that pull up in one piece after removing the trim from the step and behind the seats? and if so was it easy enough for one person to do it?
thanks

 

[belloinsella]

In the photo of the floor on it side, did that pull up in one piece after removing the trim from the step and behind the seats? and if so was it easy enough for one person to do it?
thanks

I thought it was a single piece floor, but the particle board is split lengthwise and the carpet/adhesive will allow you to fold it in half. A friend and I lifted it out that way, but I was able to carry it back in and install by myself. Make sure that you push the floor fully forward once you drop it back in. I put the trim pieces back on and realized it needed to go another 3/4" forward and it took two people to do so.

 

[richards]

I thought it was a single piece floor, but the particle board is split lengthwise and the carpet/adhesive will allow you to fold it in half. A friend and I lifted it out that way, but I was able to carry it back in and install by myself. Make sure that you push the floor fully forward once you drop it back in. I put the trim pieces back on and realized it needed to go another 3/4" forward and it took two people to do so.

thanks a bunch for the info. i can put stickers under the plywood and hopefully bring it all up at once and slide it out. i just want to remove the jump seat rails as they will never go back in. to give the additional stability i can rip plywood where necessary to fill the voids and make it more solid.

 

[belloinsella]

Working on making patterns for the window screens. I bought Low-E from Hein and am waiting on ripstop Polyester to arrive. Hoping to sandwich the reflective material between two layers of poly and tape the seams. Not sure how the window screens will hold in a cargo van, but I'm thinking about using magnets. I'm pretty confident that with a wagon, the window screens will stuff behind the plastic trim panels. Will know more in a couple days.

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[belloinsella]

I posted this in another thread "Wagon Insulation" but wanted to document on our build too.

I sewed up set of "rough draft" window covers for the MR/HR rear door windows. This pattern will fit a cargo van without the grey plastic trim. When I added the trim back on they were too wide and wouldn't fit.

They're made from pvc backed polyester front/back with Low-E insulation in between. The new version will be made from black fabric. They will have grommets in the corners and I'm waiting for new Adams suction cups to arrive.

Once I make another batch and verify the fit I'll offer the window screens for sale.

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[richards]

they look great. easy on and off either with magnets or suction cups. would be interested in price when you get the right fit. if we can fit in our budget, i can have my son, who lives in sc, pick them up.

 

[belloinsella]

they look great. easy on and off either with magnets or suction cups. would be interested in price when you get the right fit. if we can fit in our budget, i can have my son, who lives in sc, pick them up.

Cool, once I get the new suction cups and black fabric I'll make another set. I changed the pattern today and can offer a slider window cover as well. It's looking like $120 for the two rear door covers, and an additional $80 for the slider. But I'll know more by this weekend.


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[Springsyeti]

Add me to your list of interested!


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[belloinsella]

I gave my buddy the first set of gray window covers for his HR rear doors and he sent this to me today. You can barely tell there are covers in from the outside. Can't see the suction cups very well either. Black fabric will help even more.

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[Hoosier 45]

Hi,
Did you notice any kind of hit on you mpg with the Cooper AT3?

I have them on my Tacoma and really like them.

 

[belloinsella]

Window covers version 2 are done. Pretty excited about these new suction cups, they fit great! Black pvc backed polyester is nice too. Will offer a lightweight diamond pattern black poly/nylon ripstop for an additional charge, if you're worried about weight. That fabric will be here tomorrow. Pockets are also an option. If anyone is interested in buying some, email me:
Info [at] strawfoothandmade [dot] com

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[TransAm]

Very nice curtains.

 

[kenjent]

Very nice curtains indeed.

 

[belloinsella]

Today I helped my friend with our platform bed. He's welding up a queen size (width) that fits behind the third row of seats. Should get finished and sent to the powdercoater tomorrow.

Then we got ready to install the MaxxAir fan. We pulled the headliner and I installed the Thinsulate insulation with 3M 90 contact adhesive. Then cut the hole. Tomorrow we'll get the fan installed with one of Hein's roof adapters.

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[belloinsella]

MaxxAir 6200K is installed. It's a bit taller than a Fantastic Fan but I like that you can drive with it fully open and keep it open when it's raining. Hein's roof adapter made it much easier and I bought all the tape/adhesives that I heard about from faroutride.com. I have not hooked it up to a house battery yet but my only complaint is that the trim piece inside rattles a bit with the body of the fan. I temporarily stuck some leather pieces that I had into the gaps but it still rattles badly when closing a door. Any tips? Other than the height and slight rattle I'm very happy with the quality.

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[EddieZ]

...but my only complaint is that the trim piece inside rattles a bit with the body of the fan. I temporarily stuck some leather pieces that I had into the gaps but it still rattles badly when closing a door. Any tips?

Maybe use the fuzzy side of some self-adhesive Velcro. Cut to maybe 1/4 inch wide, and applied to the top 1/4 inch of the trim ring. Several strips on each of the 4 sides (or a continuous strip), and possibly on both inner and outer surfaces, if the first application doesn't to the trick.

 

[belloinsella]

Maybe use the fuzzy side of some self-adhesive Velcro. Cut to maybe 1/4 inch wide, and applied to the top 1/4 inch of the trim ring. Several strips on each of the 4 sides (or a continuous strip), and possibly on both inner and outer surfaces, if the first application doesn't to the trick.

Good idea. The Velcro should act as a buffer between the two plastic surfaces but allow the trim ring to still move when the cabin pressure jolts while closing the door. The leather I have squeezes the gap but creates friction as well. Still noisy. I'll give the Velcro a try.


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