Ford Transit USA Forum banner
61 - 80 of 103 Posts
See my install post above. I have the same type of flooring and had no trouble installing the B4L using an RV floor mounting bracket. Not sure if this bracket will fit a Chinese heater, but this is what I used for my Espar: Floor Mounting Bracket For Air Heaters

I cut a round hole in the flooring to fit the bracket deep enough so the bracket was flush with the vinyl floor. The flange on the bracket was not deep enough to reach the metal van floor. Once the bracket sat flush, I could mark the holes for the intake, exhaust, and fuel lines. I cut these holes in the van's metal floor, filed the edges and painted them to prevent rust. I secured the heater to the bracket and then attached intake, exhaust, and fuel lines to the bottom of the heater. Then I fed all 3 lines through the van's metal floor, added sealant between the bracket and vinyl flooring, and screwed the bracket to the floor. The picture below shows the bottom of the van. It was easier than installing under the passenger seat and because of my van's layout I really didn't give up any usable floor space.

View attachment 132228
@ktc - I am installing mine right now and besides making the whole the exact size of the turret, I am now realizing that it creates a gap between the bottom of Espar and the metal van floor. Espar says all connections should be outside of the vehicle, I assume due to heat + fumes, etc.

Did you seal the turret adapter in any way to the surrounding hole in your floor? What about the exposed insulation that the gap in the turret causes?

141942


@IanCH Did you ever get yours installed? How did you handle this?

Now I am questioning the 5" hole I just cut in my floor for this install 🥺

Thanks!
 
I just finished up mine yesterday, I didn't use there in line fuse setup I just fused it at my panel, worked great.
 
@ktc - I am installing mine right now and besides making the whole the exact size of the turret, I am now realizing that it creates a gap between the bottom of Espar and the metal van floor. Espar says all connections should be outside of the vehicle, I assume due to heat + fumes, etc.

Did you seal the turret adapter in any way to the surrounding hole in your floor? What about the exposed insulation that the gap in the turret causes?

View attachment 141942

@IanCH Did you ever get yours installed? How did you handle this?

Now I am questioning the 5" hole I just cut in my floor for this install 🥺

Thanks!
I used sealant: Rutland 500 degree RTV high heat silicone sealant. I have a carbon monoxide detector near the heater and haven’t had any problems.
 
Question for everyone about operating the heater with the "pro" controller. My B4 M2 is installed and CRANKING away, however, the set temp vs. actual temp seems to be way off. I have to set the temp on the controller to ~56/57 (on time infinity) to get a ~70 deg F average temp in the van. The controller does not let me set it any lower, so it is either 70 all night or a Sauna. It would be nice if the set temp was close to the actual temp, you know, like ANY other thermostat. Is anyone else seeing this issue?
 
Question for everyone about operating the heater with the "pro" controller. My B4 M2 is installed and CRANKING away, however, the set temp vs. actual temp seems to be way off. I have to set the temp on the controller to ~56/57 (on time infinity) to get a ~70 deg F average temp in the van. The controller does not let me set it any lower, so it is either 70 all night or a Sauna. It would be nice if the set temp was close to the actual temp, you know, like ANY other thermostat. Is anyone else seeing this issue?
Do you know which temperature sensor is being used? There is a temperature sensor in the heater and one in the controller. I originally had mine set to the one in the heater. Since the heater is mounted on the floor it was reading a colder temperature than the air in the living space above it. I used the Workshop menu of the controller to change the control sensor to "control unit" instead of "air heater". I can now set my heater to run at 60F and get 60F as the air temp in the van.
 
@ktc - FarOutRide uses a hose that goes from 7.5 - 4mm. Why did you decide to go this brass adapter route? Haven't seen it before. Does it work well? It doesn't bottleneck things?

Thanks so much! :)
 
@ktc - FarOutRide uses a hose that goes from 7.5 - 4mm. Why did you decide to go this brass adapter route? Haven't seen it before. Does it work well? It doesn't bottleneck things?

Thanks so much! :)
Edit- This is apparently not the case now. The espar uses a different size hose!

Speaking from experience, it will bottleneck and cause carbon buildup problems. You want to try to have everything perfect with gasoline units. It is a cheap part. If you already installed something like the barbed hose above it super easy to replace.

 
@ktc - FarOutRide uses a hose that goes from 7.5 - 4mm. Why did you decide to go this brass adapter route? Haven't seen it before. Does it work well? It doesn't bottleneck things?

Thanks so much! :)
The Espar and Webasto are different sizes. The hose FarOutRide used won’t fit on the Espar so I used the brass adapter. I’ve had zero problems with my setup.
 
The Espar and Webasto are different sizes. The hose FarOutRide used won’t fit on the Espar so I used the brass adapter. I’ve had zero problems with my setup.
Good to know! I will edit my post!
 
  • Like
Reactions: ktc
Thanks for clarifying guys! The Webasto is 7.5 and the Espar is 8, ya? That's why the webasto hose doesn't work?
That’s correct. I bought and tried to use the Webasto reducer hose on my Espar and it didn’t work. I searched for a reducer hose that was 8mm and couldn’t find one. That’s why I ended up using the brass adapter.
 
That’s correct. I bought and tried to use the Webasto reducer hose on my Espar and it didn’t work. I searched for a reducer hose that was 8mm and couldn’t find one. That’s why I ended up using the brass adapter.
Thanks so much!
 
61 - 80 of 103 Posts