He's some ideas.

Some people leave it (and the lights) in as a backup or secondary source of lighting.

Another option is to leave it in, but connect it to a relay that will activate your primary lights. Make it behave like a 3-way switch.

I will probably use this space for smart buttons, replacing the switch with a thin sheet of of plastic, or something I 3d print, or a thin sheet of plywood with a nice laminate in it inside the cutout. Even a thin sheet of flexible cutting board in the right color would work.

Lastly, I may just mount a proper sunglasses holder as it pisses me off to no-end that Ford must consider the cubby boxes suitable for sunglasses.

 

You can have my switch as a spare

After figuring out what it did, I had no qualms about just ditching it since my own lighting setup is far better. And that area is prime real estate for other switches.

 

Love this! Exactly the sort of thing I aspire to, though so far an air compressor is the only thing I need a switch there for but maybe I can think of some other things. A valve on the grey tank is an interesting idea for sure.

Did you start with an off the shelf carling switch mount panel and cut out the existing dome to fit it?

If I put enough switches there to fill out the existing hole that would make it easiest. Sounds like otherwise my only option may be 3D printing something to take up the space around the smaller number of switches. I'm just really slow at CAD stuff so that's not my first choice. 🤣

 

Old Chub,

Did you run an entirely new power feed from your house system to the switch panel of simply tap the factory power feed? I would love to use that spot for a 5-switch panel with individual switches for exterior floods for each side of the van (one switch Aux.). Not sure if all-floods-on would be too much for the factory feed.

 

Old Chub,
Did you run an entirely new power feed from your house system to the switch panel of simply tap the factory power feed? I would love to use that spot for a 5-switch panel with individual switches for exterior floods for each side of the van (one switch Aux.). Not sure if all-floods-on would be too much for the factory feed.

The wiring all runs back to my electrical cabinet and my house system. The roof rack lighting is all controlled by Shelly Plus 1 and Shelly Plus RGBW PM controllers. I can turn the rack lights on/off from 3 spots - drivers seat, slider, and rear doors (and the dashboard tablet).

 

This is what I did with mine:

 

I have used custom switch inserts, they make the end units , middle units. You can make it 2 to X long. I started out with three toggle switches in the overhead and expanded to four. I use OTR Switch Guys a lot. Luckily I ran some extra wires to the front on the original install.

 

like the other posters it seemed like space going to waste, though, i've not yet decided on what i'm going to put there. i'm also not sure if i'm going to use the factor lights but i figured i'd probably use the switch and maybe even the wiring it is attached to so i moved it down below where is also lots of unused space.

 

all the way at the rear of the top of van over the doors are two snap in spots and wire harnesses for the lights. A quick and useful place to stash them. The switch on the console can turn them on and off and will extinguish them over time if ignored

 

My Cargo light switch doesn't work.....

 

Would love to have that ability. I'm early in my build and getting ready to insulate/sound deaden above the headliner so will have access.

I've reviewed the following thread and it appears that by the end there was less enthusiasm for the Shelly.
(6) Let there be light! Shellies! | Ford Transit USA Forum

If one wants to control rack lights for example, with switches in multiple locations, should we follow the example posted in that thread using a Shelly RGBWPM, dual-port RJ45 and switches?

 

The sheer number of options in the same form factor from Carling makes these switches a great choice. You can generally choose your LED colors, switch type, indicators can be hard wired or independent. I generally just purchase the switch body, that saves a few bucks to put towards the etched rockers. The terminal housings are also a great addition for wiring up these switches.