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barrycburton

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I've got a 2024 cargo van that came with 2 cargo area lights around the C-pillar area. As far as I can tell there was no way to order the van without these. At any rate they are coming out as part of my conversion.

The problem is that the overhead reading light console now has this useless button that once controlled those 2 cargo area lights. I spent a lot of time on parts.ford.com trying to figure out a solution but couldn't come up with anything.

It's a good spot for custom switches so was hoping I could either replace the whole console dome with one that didn't have the cutout for the button panel or even better just source a blank panel that replaced the light button panel.

As far as I can tell all the cargo vans came with the light button there and all the passenger / crew vans came with rear climate controls there. It does seem like the dome part is also different depending on if the van came with the OEM overhead shelf (mine has the shelf).

Anyone else figured out a good solution for it?

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He's some ideas.

Some people leave it (and the lights) in as a backup or secondary source of lighting.

Another option is to leave it in, but connect it to a relay that will activate your primary lights. Make it behave like a 3-way switch.

I will probably use this space for smart buttons, replacing the switch with a thin sheet of of plastic, or something I 3d print, or a thin sheet of plywood with a nice laminate in it inside the cutout. Even a thin sheet of flexible cutting board in the right color would work.

Lastly, I may just mount a proper sunglasses holder as it pisses me off to no-end that Ford must consider the cubby boxes suitable for sunglasses.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
You can have my switch as a spare ;)

After figuring out what it did, I had no qualms about just ditching it since my own lighting setup is far better. And that area is prime real estate for other switches.

View attachment 231683
Love this! Exactly the sort of thing I aspire to, though so far an air compressor is the only thing I need a switch there for but maybe I can think of some other things. A valve on the grey tank is an interesting idea for sure.

Did you start with an off the shelf carling switch mount panel and cut out the existing dome to fit it?

If I put enough switches there to fill out the existing hole that would make it easiest. Sounds like otherwise my only option may be 3D printing something to take up the space around the smaller number of switches. I'm just really slow at CAD stuff so that's not my first choice. 🤣
 
You can have my switch as a spare ;)

After figuring out what it did, I had no qualms about just ditching it since my own lighting setup is far better. And that area is prime real estate for other switches.

View attachment 231683
@OldChubbyKnuckle , I just spent ten minutes wandering through your build thread looking for your write up on that, might you know what page it’s on?
 
Did you start with an off the shelf carling switch mount panel and cut out the existing dome to fit it?
Yes - they are Blue Sea/Carling Contura 3 switches with their 6 slot panel mount. Measured and marked 6 times and then went at it with the dremel cutting wheel. Figured the worst that would happen is I need to buy a new plastic replacement from Ford if it went off the rails (unlike giant holes in the sheet metal for windows...).

The rack mounted roof lights, the 2nd alternator charge control, and the gray drain right from the driver seat are awesome. Just tonight I arrived at steelhead fishing camp at midnight and had to back into a spot. Simply clicked the lights on and let 'er rip. Figure same for gray in proper areas would be super handy.

Ran all the wiring when the headliner was down and getting insulated - they all run over above the driver and emerge behind the top of the rear blob IIRC.

Not original - got the idea from someone here, but can't find my notes at the moment on who, but grateful - it was just a great idea.

Note that the 6 switch bank panel works well there. And they sell switch blanks you can put in to cover up the slot if you can't dream up a use at this point. Given the work, I'd run all the wiring at least to behind the driver while the headliner is down and just leave them there. You'll find a use I'm confident over the years.

The genius I copied from had a disco ball switch for the dash labeled 'Happy Hour'.
 
I have used custom switch inserts, they make the end units , middle units. You can make it 2 to X long. I started out with three toggle switches in the overhead and expanded to four. I use OTR Switch Guys a lot. Luckily I ran some extra wires to the front on the original install.

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like the other posters it seemed like space going to waste, though, i've not yet decided on what i'm going to put there. i'm also not sure if i'm going to use the factor lights but i figured i'd probably use the switch and maybe even the wiring it is attached to so i moved it down below where is also lots of unused space.

Image
 
I've got a 2024 cargo van that came with 2 cargo area lights around the C-pillar area. As far as I can tell there was no way to order the van without these. At any rate they are coming out as part of my conversion.

The problem is that the overhead reading light console now has this useless button that once controlled those 2 cargo area lights. I spent a lot of time on parts.ford.com trying to figure out a solution but couldn't come up with anything.

It's a good spot for custom switches so was hoping I could either replace the whole console dome with one that didn't have the cutout for the button panel or even better just source a blank panel that replaced the light button panel.

As far as I can tell all the cargo vans came with the light button there and all the passenger / crew vans came with rear climate controls there. It does seem like the dome part is also different depending on if the van came with the OEM overhead shelf (mine has the shelf).

Anyone else figured out a good solution for it?

View attachment 231682
all the way at the rear of the top of van over the doors are two snap in spots and wire harnesses for the lights. A quick and useful place to stash them. The switch on the console can turn them on and off and will extinguish them over time if ignored
 
How did you create those switch labels? I need some.
Just a Brother P-Touch 1180 label printer with white on black label tape. I didn't realize they made that tape at first and used black on white instead for version 1 which didn't look so good.

Was thinking of custom switch covers as some have done for the Contura switches, but I already have 24 switches installed and 9 more to go. So what seems inexpensive at first, could be a $300+ expense at the end of the day for all covers so that seemed nuts. I can live with the black on white tape.

The Contura 3 switches might seem a little 'big' at first compared to tiny round switches. But at some point you realize that you need labels for every switch and the 'real estate' of the Contura switch is just perfect. Plus they are sealed, dust and water resistant, and within the same form factor for the mounting plates can have momentary, SPST, SPDT, etc. I even reversed one of the switches so that "on" appears like normally off. Just pop the cover off and flip it around. They are super versatile and high quality.
 
FWIW - Carling is the manufacturer. The variety that they make is staggering. Way more options than just what Blue Sea rebrands V-Series Contura® Sealed Rocker Switches

A lot of the Blue Sea breakers are also made by Carling.
I appreciate that they are dominant in the marine industry and therefore the switches and form factor will be around for many, many years in case one goes bad. I have one spare of each type just in case. Easier to pop in a replacement than remake an entire panel just because a switch went south I figure.
 
You can have my switch as a spare ;)

After figuring out what it did, I had no qualms about just ditching it since my own lighting setup is far better. And that area is prime real estate for other switches.

View attachment 231683
Old Chub,

Did you run an entirely new power feed from your house system to the switch panel of simply tap the factory power feed? I would love to use that spot for a 5-switch panel with individual switches for exterior floods for each side of the van (one switch Aux.). Not sure if all-floods-on would be too much for the factory feed.
 
Old Chub,
Did you run an entirely new power feed from your house system to the switch panel of simply tap the factory power feed? I would love to use that spot for a 5-switch panel with individual switches for exterior floods for each side of the van (one switch Aux.). Not sure if all-floods-on would be too much for the factory feed.
The wiring all runs back to my electrical cabinet and my house system. The roof rack lighting is all controlled by Shelly Plus 1 and Shelly Plus RGBW PM controllers. I can turn the rack lights on/off from 3 spots - drivers seat, slider, and rear doors (and the dashboard tablet).
 
Would love to have that ability. I'm early in my build and getting ready to insulate/sound deaden above the headliner so will have access.

I've reviewed the following thread and it appears that by the end there was less enthusiasm for the Shelly.
(6) Let there be light! Shellies! | Ford Transit USA Forum

If one wants to control rack lights for example, with switches in multiple locations, should we follow the example posted in that thread using a Shelly RGBWPM, dual-port RJ45 and switches?
 
Just a Brother P-Touch 1180 label printer with white on black label tape. I didn't realize they made that tape at first and used black on white instead for version 1 which didn't look so good.

Was thinking of custom switch covers as some have done for the Contura switches, but I already have 24 switches installed and 9 more to go. So what seems inexpensive at first, could be a $300+ expense at the end of the day for all covers so that seemed nuts. I can live with the black on white tape.

The Contura 3 switches might seem a little 'big' at first compared to tiny round switches. But at some point you realize that you need labels for every switch and the 'real estate' of the Contura switch is just perfect. Plus they are sealed, dust and water resistant, and within the same form factor for the mounting plates can have momentary, SPST, SPDT, etc. I even reversed one of the switches so that "on" appears like normally off. Just pop the cover off and flip it around. They are super versatile and high quality.
Yes, the Contura switches seemed big, but once installed are just right. Except we need labels... Maybe a print shop has a label printer.
Image
 
The sheer number of options in the same form factor from Carling makes these switches a great choice. You can generally choose your LED colors, switch type, indicators can be hard wired or independent. I generally just purchase the switch body, that saves a few bucks to put towards the etched rockers. The terminal housings are also a great addition for wiring up these switches.
 
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