2018 Owners manual. Snip from page 312


Differential Fluid is about $30/quart.
Don't forget the Friction Modifier. $9 for 4 oz

For my wife's Honda CRV there was a factory service bullentin to "burnish the differential"
Yes, AWD and the rear diff made the noise. Faulty differential fluid was the issue.

http://hondacrvturningnoise.blogspot.com/2009/01/2005-honda-crv-awd-makes-grinding-noise.html

 

Just took a look at my van. No drain plug on the differential cover. Will be ordering this piece shortly

https://yourcovers.com/Merchant5/me...c?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=yourcovers&Product_Code=DC-ASM-9594-AC&Category_Code=2

The Lucas Oil Synthetic Gear Lube has the friction modifier in it already.

I'm going to start changing the gear oil ever two or three oil changes. Cheap insurance IMO.

 

Just took a look at my van. No drain plug on the differential cover. Will be ordering this piece shortly

https://yourcovers.com/Merchant5/me...c?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=yourcovers&Product_Code=DC-ASM-9594-AC&Category_Code=2

I don't see a drain or fill hole on that cover either.

Edit: Never mind. Angle of the photograph. @mtbmitch2's link says there are both: https://www.yourcovers.com/diffcover_ford975.php

 

Spec on the Transit diffs is 75w-85

 

Interesting. Dealer specified 75 140. Maybe being pro-active for a work truck that is driven hard. I'm going to stick with the 140 for high temp high load situations.

 

https://www.expeditersonline.com/forums/threads/2017-ford-transit-rear-differential-problems.70409/

Interesting thread about the problem. As expediters I'd assume that these guys are doing tons of highway miles, and not a lot of stop-go-turn traffic. Imagine how punched mine is after 76k kms of construction duty.

 

My 2015 250 with 3.31 LS was making grinding noise on slow speed sharp turns. Fixed under warranty.....

Noise started back up after a week and was worse. Took it back to the dealer, they contacted Ford and was told to soak the clutches in a friction modifier. So far so good after about 5,000 miles....

 

Noise started back up after a week and was worse. Took it back to the dealer, they contacted Ford and was told to soak the clutches in a friction modifier. So far so good after about 5,000 miles....

Wonder if they missed that step on original repair?

It is clearly stated to do the friction modifier soak in the service manual before placing new clutch plates? >

 

I recoup most of the cost by doing the change myself, and getting a deep discount on the oil. Plus i can't weld that well, and I don't have time to pull the cover and have someone do a drain and fill plug for me.

I also like the cooling capabilities of the finned aluminum cover, and the extra half quart of oil can't hurt either.

 

Seems like no dealers have a clue how to service these vans. My dealer put a nice dimple in the roof of my van, by raising it into something on the ceiling, and naturally denied that it could even happen in there shop.

Of all the issues I've had with the tranny, and rear end, they've never even checked either of those fluid levels.

The first few oil changes that I had them do, they didn't even record them in the maintenance book that THEY provided!

Never rotate tires, and have to be asked over and over to re-learn the tpms.

 

Anyone who hasn't checked their diff fluid should do so- my brand new 2018 was about 1/2-3/4 qt low when I checked it at 1000 miles.

 

Is there a plug where you can easily check and fill Budsky? If so I'd like to use a vacuum pump to drain and fill with new oil. My van (bought used) has 100K miles on it. Thanks.

I'd also like to suck and re-fill the transmission fluid several times to replace it. I attempted to open the fill plug but it was too hard. Need to have an extender for my wrench for leverage. A project for near future I hope.

 

Op, maybe you can find other brand of synthetic gear oil, castrol, mobil, valvoline?

Bez,
Diffy oil is thick, if you warm it up by driving around and then it might be thin enough to suction out

I did the diffy in my chevy diesel truck last summer, it took 3.x quarts, the oil stinks, but it was night and day after that.

Budsky, how did ya check the level, pls enlighten us. Yes, most diffy's out of the factories are a mess when it comes to fluid levels.

Is it possible to drip and tap a drain plug on to the factory diffy cover?

 

Checking differential fluid is easy, if the pumpkin shows no signs of leakage, you are good to go.

 

Not necessarily- It can also leak oil out the wheel seals so it does need to be checked occasionally.

 

(i remember everything i read) so far on this forum for the transit differentials there has been an driveshaft related pinon gear self destruction, a couple wheel seal complaints, a thread or two on differential gear galling and replacement, and multiple limited slip clutch problems. (there is still a lot here i have not read.)

i was only able to find the wheel seal thread, lots of good info there!

http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/engine-technical-discussion/7977-rear-axle-seal-leak.html

 

I'm just going to change mine for fun since I'm at 60k miles. I'm not getting a fancy diff cover. But what fluid am I supposed to be adding?

Is it 2.65 liters to fill, about?

The manual is all kinds of garbage like we know. First it says "Normal Maintenance Schedule" is to change axle fluid every 150,000 miles. Then on the next page it says:

"Normal vehicle axle maintenance: Rear
axles and power take-off units with
synthetic fluid and light-duty trucks
equipped with Ford-design axles are
lubricated for life; do not check or change
fluid unless a leak is suspected, service is
required or the assembly has been
submerged in water. During long periods
of trailer towing with outside temperatures
above 70°F (21°C) and at wide-open
throttle for long periods above 45 mph
(72 km/h), change non-synthetic rear axle
fluid every 3000 mi (4,800 km) or three
months, whichever comes first. This
interval can be waived if the axle is filled
with 75W140 synthetic gear fluid meeting
Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A; GL-5
or equivalent. Add friction modifier XL-3
EST-M2C118-A or equivalent for complete
refill of Traction-Lok rear axles. See
Capacities and Specifications (page
265)."

So what fluid is the right fluid for normal non-towing use?

 

Truck, bro,
I use amsoil's site to look up vehicle to figure out what I need.

https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-...ck/2016/ford-trucks/transit-350/3-5l-6-cyl-engine-code-g-99g-g-turbo/us-volume/

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/severe-gear-75w-90/?code=svgqt-ea


Here is what amsoil adds:
AMSOIL Severe Gear is compatible with most limited-slip differentials. If limited-slip differential chatter occurs, add AMSOIL Slip Lock® friction modifier additive.

 

I'm just going to use Valvoline full synthetic 75w140 for $12.99 a quart. Quart, 2 pints, 32 ounces... the imperial system is so dumb. Anyway, with the Valvoline they designed it to run without the additional friction modifier. I'll let y'all know.

 

Yes please update us when done. Thanks Truck.

 

The Lucas Oil 75w 140 doesn't require an additional friction modifier either. Fancy diff cover ordered.

 

Ya well I didn't realize these pics were so overexposed. My phone camera sucks.

Anyway, get under there with a 13mm deep socket and undo all the bolts. I used an air wrench and it was all like... zip zip zip zipzipizpzipziip

Screwdriver and tapped at the flange provided. Keep one bolt up top so things don't fly around and make a mess.

Spray the old gasket material with brake clean and then razor blade it away. Do the brake clean first it really eats at the gasket material. I also had a durable scrubbie. I could have cleaned it better but I bet it doesn't leak.

I soaked up all the oil in the bottom with paper towels and wiped out the bottom. Gross.

Really my diff oil didn't look bad. The teeth all look good. My vehicle has the towing package but has never towed anything. It has been around 7500 to 7800 lbs most of it's life. In my build 3.0 I am hoping it's less but we will see.

 

Ya well I didn't realize these pics were so overexposed. My phone camera sucks.

Anyway, get under there with a 13mm deep socket and undo all the bolts. I used an air wrench and it was all like... zip zip zip zipzipizpzipziip

Screwdriver and tapped at the flange provided. Keep one bolt up top so things don't fly around and make a mess.

PIC SNIPPED

Spray the old gasket material with brake clean and then razor blade it away. Do the brake clean first it really eats at the gasket material. I also had a durable scrubbie. I could have cleaned it better but I bet it doesn't leak.

PICS SNIPPED

I soaked up all the oil in the bottom with paper towels and wiped out the bottom. Gross.

Really my diff oil didn't look bad. The teeth all look good. My vehicle has the towing package but has never towed anything. It has been around 7500 to 7800 lbs most of it's life. In my build 3.0 I am hoping it's less but we will see.

PIC SNIPPED

Well- dangit!
Went to change my 2018 diff oil yesterday at 5,000+- miles.

Almost every diff cover I've removed on late model vehicles is glued/sealed on with RTV. Just like Truck's pics above.
The Ford 2018 shop manual also shows it that way.

So I start going around taking bolts out- they are tight- really tight- OMFG- they are red loctited on!
Guess what else the heads are NOT metric! 12mm won't go on, 13mm is too loose. In fact a 12 point 13mm will round them off the red loctite is so good. Turn out to be 1/2" perfect fit to apply the 900 ft lbs (slight exaggeration) of torque to get those little bolts out.

Get a bigger ratchet handle and take all out but one- the top center one.
So being prepared I have my putty knife- to hammer in and break the RTV seal.
Have my drain pan at the ready...
Start loosening the one last top bolt- get it about half way out- and the whole freaking cover pops off!

Pan is not yet under the diff because I was expecting to have to work at getting the cover off

3 qts of gear oil instantly pours out onto my driveway

Ford has changed the design- there is now a thin steel plate between the cover and the diff housing. Incorporated into that plate is a rubber reuseable gasket- no RTV seal used or needed.

Sweet- when changing diff oil- just wish I'd known about it when I started- wouldn't have simulated the Exxon Valdez in my driveway:|

BTW the oil looked great- had very little "glitter" in it. My Toyota FJC diff had a LOT of glitter when I changed it first time around 5k.
There was a lot of slippery black stuff all over everything in the diff though- made me wonder if Ford uses moly in their gear oil.
Mobil 75W-90 went back in.
Don't believe the manual when it says 3 qts either- mine took about 3 1/2.

You've been warned

 

I ordered this pan: aFe Power 46-70152 (+1 quart over stock. Notice the sight glass AND dipstick)
AMSOIL(r) SVG 75w90 all the way for me! Friction modifier is 'optional' with it (As many stated with other synthetic gear oils). I do have the LS rear-end so I will be adding the modifier. Not needed if you don't have an LS rear ;-)

I also ordered this transmission pan: aFe Power:46-70172 (+7 quarts over stock!!) I'll check for crossbar clearance first.
AMSOIL(r) ATL for that.

Any time you can provide more fluid in a system, that system will last longer (plus run cooler as there is more volume to heat up AND more liquid in contact with cooling fins)

My engine oil gets changed every 25,000Km with AMSOIL(r) ALM 5w20 in Summer and ASM 0w20 in Winter.

With only ~40,000km on my Aug '17 received van, I will be swapping that rear diff cover this Summer.

 

Oh god, I hope that engine oil interval is a typo. You mean 2500 kms, right? Let us know how much clearance you have at the cross member with that deep transmission pan.

 

Yep aware of that.
In the case above I crawled under there with a 12mm, 13mm, and a 14mm so I'd be ready for whichever fit. Didn't look at what # point sockets I'd grabbed, crawled back out with a bolt in hand and found the 1/2 fit better.
I've often wondered why 12 point sockets are so common- It's a socket so it likely is going to be used on a ratchet which often has more index points than the socket will. I will admit Ford sometimes uses 12 point bolts- on my 95 Ranger the rear driveshaft attachment to the pinion is 12 point bolts. You aren't getting those loose with a 6 point for sure.

Those diff cover bolts are weird- the hex is actually tapered a little from top to bottom- that makes tool fit even more critical since you aren't grabbing the whole head. Just an edge of the socket.

A 13 would probably work if they weren't so hard to break loose- but a 1/2 is a better tight fit.


Oh and one other caveat- if you have the rear sway bar you aren't getting a socket on the bottom 3 bolts of the cover. And as I said the red loctite means don't try an open end either! Good box end required.

 

Yep aware of that.

I will admit Ford sometimes uses 12 point bolts- on my 95 Ranger the rear driveshaft attachment to the pinion is 12 point bolts. You aren't getting those loose with a 6 point for sure.

I figured you did but didn't understand why you used 12 point when so much force was needed.

What I really don't understand the lack of and do need to buy is a set of 6 point combination wrenches. 99% of them for sale are 12 points. 6 point box end is what you'd want to use for the bottom 3 with a sway bar.

Those 12 points on the Ranger driveshaft makes sense. The inverse of the internal "triple square" splined bolts.

The tapering diff cover bolts are weird. I think I'd rather replace them with something that makes more sense. To me anyway. Maybe there's yet another special tapered socket for them?

 

On the bolts the tapering is very slight but it is there. The heads are also taller than other similar sized bolts.

3 of the bolts spaced around the top are different- they have an integral smaller stud protruding out the top which Ford uses to hold a wire harness that crosses the axle.
Had to use a combo wrench on them too- a deep well socket would have worked but I was tired of crawling out and back under several times...tight fit under there.

I think is a Murphy's law- No matter how many tools I crawl under a vehicle with there will be ONE that I didn't bring with me!

 

Earthquake air impact is like $80 after some coupons. If you work on your own vehicle that's one of my favorite tools and you won't be complaining about red loctite

 

I have 2 of the Ryobi impact drivers- the first one I bought is a weakling- 1/4" hex drive- which is ok for some uses.
The other one is 1/2" drive and is pretty stout!

If the going really gets tough I break out my 1/2" Ingersoll Rand industrial grade air impact. I bought it after trying and returning several Campbell Hausfeld and other lower tier brands.
Had an application where I was needing to loosen lug nuts often- found the CH and others- even though advertised as over 200 ft lbs would NOT break loose lug nuts tightened to 150- no matter how long you hammered them. Bought the IR and zip- right off.

The diff cover bolts aren't bad once you break them loose- a few turns out and they mostly then come out with fingers only.

 

The HF Earthquake II has removed the 240 ft lb crankshaft nut from my Z06 and also the crankshaft nut off my Tundra. the IR products are awesome but that Earthquake is a stellar value

 

Budsky: All this sounds too difficult for me. I do have a small electric oil pump. Do you think I can just pump out the old oil thru the fill opening and replace w new oil?

I have a 3.2 diesel at 100K miles with 3.31 ratio I believe. What kind of oil and do I need to add modifier?

Thank you.

 

You can get much of it pumping it out- I prefer the diff cover drop to get all of it- but some is better than nothing.
Ford specs 75W-80 synthetic. I used Mobil 1 75W-90, about 1/3 the cost of Ford's product.
Friction modifier is needed if you have limited slip and use Ford's product. The Mobil 1 already has it in it.

 

I find this stuff really interesting:

 

I'm confused. The rear diff bolts have red loc-tite on them. Are you guys trying to break them loose without heating them up first?