Sureflow pump says self priming. I'm following Neal Carney's nice install (DIY freshwater control panel with diverter valves).
Only way to get pump to prime and work is to hook regular house connected hose up to the inlet he uses to pump from a bucket say with some bleach added to clean out his system. Plus I set the 3 way "L" valves at 45 deg and get all bits of tubing open to flow with the hose on, then turn valves for normal operation and it works and the hose is now valved off. Someplace someone point out these pumps have two screws setting the pressure for shut off and a lower pressure to start bypassing. Apparently, they have some bypass set before it would trigger off so you maybe don't have to have a separate pressure tank. Maybe this is messed up. I do have a really small pressure tank a few feet away, maybe I could use a pump without the bypass. My pump is the $71 version. If I fill my indoor tank literally full where the water line is higher than the pump and all these pieces of tubing, it still won't prime by just using the pump.
First question is how hard is it to get the flow from a bucket started in Neal's system? 2nd question, which model pump is the most forgiving? I don't see the two screws mentioned above but I haven't taken pump apart. Maybe I want a pump with no bypass? In my system I have a water tank below the van and a 2nd tank inside. The bottom 3 way "tee" valve is to isolate the top system for cold weather. The top two valves are "L" valves. I admit, I haven't filled it lipping full of water and driven around on bouncy roads to get rid of air pockets, I should try this.
It operates OK after prime is accomplished but it bugs me I couldn't restart it even with tanks totally full without having aregular hose/house water pressure available.
My fancy cover panel that looks ok but not as good as Neal's is off in these photos. I've already made some changes, and totally separated the vent lines coming from the two tanks. Thanks for any help.
Only way to get pump to prime and work is to hook regular house connected hose up to the inlet he uses to pump from a bucket say with some bleach added to clean out his system. Plus I set the 3 way "L" valves at 45 deg and get all bits of tubing open to flow with the hose on, then turn valves for normal operation and it works and the hose is now valved off. Someplace someone point out these pumps have two screws setting the pressure for shut off and a lower pressure to start bypassing. Apparently, they have some bypass set before it would trigger off so you maybe don't have to have a separate pressure tank. Maybe this is messed up. I do have a really small pressure tank a few feet away, maybe I could use a pump without the bypass. My pump is the $71 version. If I fill my indoor tank literally full where the water line is higher than the pump and all these pieces of tubing, it still won't prime by just using the pump.
First question is how hard is it to get the flow from a bucket started in Neal's system? 2nd question, which model pump is the most forgiving? I don't see the two screws mentioned above but I haven't taken pump apart. Maybe I want a pump with no bypass? In my system I have a water tank below the van and a 2nd tank inside. The bottom 3 way "tee" valve is to isolate the top system for cold weather. The top two valves are "L" valves. I admit, I haven't filled it lipping full of water and driven around on bouncy roads to get rid of air pockets, I should try this.
It operates OK after prime is accomplished but it bugs me I couldn't restart it even with tanks totally full without having aregular hose/house water pressure available.
My fancy cover panel that looks ok but not as good as Neal's is off in these photos. I've already made some changes, and totally separated the vent lines coming from the two tanks. Thanks for any help.



