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BUILD THREAD: Miracle Whip

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177K views 563 replies 76 participants last post by  OldChubbyKnuckle  
#1 · (Edited)
Looks like miracles do indeed happen and my van has arrived at the dealership in Reno! I'll be picking her up this week. She's named Miracle Whip because after all the delays and questions about microchip shortages and so on, it's a miracle she even made it to me.

When I placed the order and started planning, I thought I'd be building in the summer and then using the van while on sabbatical from my job as a math professor, snowboarding in the mornings and working on research in the afternoons. But a lot happened in the months between when I placed my order (2/4/21) and now (8/21/21). I thought I'd have more time than money, but I am now taking a leave of absence rather than a sabbatical and taking a new job that is much more demanding than being on sabbatical. So, I find myself in the opposite situation with more money than time. This means I'm making some adjustments to how I do the build, hiring out jobs that I had planned to do myself, mostly the ones involving cutting big holes in the van (Flarespace, Arctic Tern window), and the ones that are tedious time-sinks (electrical, templating floor and walls).

Van Purpose and Planned Use: A four season van for chasing powder, sleeping at trailheads between backpacking trips, and sometimes working remotely.

Basic stats
  • 2021 148" LB HR 350 CARGO AWD (W2X body code)
  • Avalanche Grey
  • 3.5L EcoBoost V6
Design Principles
  • Minimize complexity of systems to increase reliability and ease maintenance.
  • Balance beauty and practicality.
  • Minimize permanence and maximize accessibility.
  • Reduce weight wherever possible.
Must Have Features
  • Van can sit unused in freezing temperatures without damage.
  • Ability to function well in snow.
  • Heat.
  • Very good insulation.
  • Very good ventilation.
  • Easily accessible composting toilet.
  • A place to sit with legs propped up.
  • Storage for snowboards and skis.
Layout & Materials Summary
  • AVC Rig roof rack
  • MaxxAir fan(s?)
  • Arctic Tern window in passenger slider
  • Fixed crosswise bed in the rear with Flarespace
  • Galley behind driver
  • L-shaped counter-height bench with footrest and Lagun table in corner
  • 8020 construction
  • No propane and no paint.
  • WilsonArt HPL on cabinetry
    • Upper cabs: Snow Geo Y0676-60 Matte Finish
    • Lower cabs: Blackbird 5024K-19 Leno Weave Finish
    • Inside cabs: Designer White D354-60 Matte Finish
    • Countertop: Birch Plywood Y0684-60 Matte Finish
  • Thinsulate insulation
  • Floor and wall kit from AVC Rig
  • LONSEAL Lonwood Natural with Topseal in Whisper 7461
  • Upholstered walls in grey marathon tweed
  • TinyWatts 5 electrical system with solar panel, low-temp batteries, and alternator upgrade
  • Induction cooking
  • Simple jerry can water system with foot pump, Yeti Silo for drinking water
  • AirHead toilet under bench near passenger door
  • Espar heater in front of rear driver wheel well
  • Dometic CFX 75 on slider in center of van under bench and into garage
  • Passenger seat swivel with Lagun mount

I'll update with more once I have the van, but for now here are some screen shots of my plans!

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#5 ·
Nice sketch of the layout. My only suggestion would be to think about the location of the refrigerator chest. It sure is nice to be able to load groceries directly out of the cart into the chest without having to climb into the van. You might switch the toilet for the chest and have it slide out in front of the slider. Just a thought from past experience. I have my ARB fridge and compostable toilet on sliders against the drivers side wall. Fridge slides out to the door and works as a table/leg rest, when passenger seat is turned around
 
#6 ·
Thanks for your input. I already considered this and in fact I had originally planned to have the fridge and toilet the other way around. I switched it because:
  • The 75DZ lids hinge along the long side. If the fridge is in front of the passenger slider, either it's impossible to access the inside of the fridge from inside the van or it's impossible to access the inside of the fridge from outside the van.
  • The unibody support nub near the passenger door would push the fridge out and decrease the aisle space by a significant amount.
  • There is not enough room for the fridge to slide all the way out forward given the size and location of the Tiny Watts electrical housing.
  • Current location makes use of difficult to access (and often dead) space in garage. The back end of the fridge sticks under the bed about a foot.
  • Weight distribution is better this way. The Tiny Watts system already weighs down the passenger side. Since I don't have a huge water system, having the heavy big fridge centered is better than having the light toilet centered.
 
#8 ·
That’s an ambitious plan in my book. My van is going to look pretty dumb compared to these.
I just picked mine up today in Kansas City. Build will be delayed while I drive to Ohio and then to Seattle. It’s a little intimidating so take your time the first day.
 
#12 ·
Congratulations on getting the van.
Great layout! I would have something very similar if I didn't haul a full complement of windsurfers and associated kit, inside mine for 5 month of the year.
Depending on your height, you probably don't need to add flares in the window recesses to have an E-W bed. I'm 5'9" and can comfortably sleep E-W on our MOAB.
 
#13 ·
Depending on your height, you probably don't need to add flares in the window recesses to have an E-W bed. I'm 5'9" and can comfortably sleep E-W on our MOAB.
It's true that I'm 5'6" but I do often find myself... uh... "sharing" a bed with revolving cast of over 6' tall ski bums 🙃😏
 
#17 ·
So far it's been super easy. They were honest about allocation, kept me posted when there were updates, are expediting an order for an option I forgot (wheel liners), sending me photos, easy communication by text... we'll see what the final purchase process ends up like but so far I'm happy.
 
#16 ·
Avalanche grey without the smoke filter seems fine, here's ours finally at home. Corwin in Idaho came through for us, that's all I can say so far. Our only defect so far is a factory chip on the passenger edge of the windshield, which they'll fix or replace. Plus some water leaks from the tray behind the hood onto the top of the engine. Just did a 400 mile shakedown through H3ll's Canyon (twice) and once around the Wallowas with no real squawks. Drives like a good car, very easy to handle but watch the overhead. You've got a great planning outline, thanks for sharing. Our mission is different but environmental challenges are similar at 5000' here also. Right now I'm struggling with AGM vs LiFePO4 because of temperature. Not an easy decision. First of many.
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#19 ·
. Drives like a good car, very easy to handle but watch the overhead. You've got a great planning outline, thanks for sharing. Our mission is different but environmental challenges are similar at 5000' here also. Right now I'm struggling with AGM vs LiFePO4 because of temperature. Not an easy decision. First of many.
One of my van electrical customers is in ID - up fairly high elevation.

The AGM vs LiFe decision is definitely complicated there.

In some ways, it is more like the PWN when it comes to sunlight availability, so this make LiFe useful.

The winter conditions mean that AGM is a much better solution or you have to commit to doing "something" to keep the battery pack warmish ( ~ > 40 F) all of the time to be really useful.

The customer installed 300 watts, but 400 - 500 of an overcast tolerant panel type would have been better + Lifeline AGMs.

It really takes all three charging methods (solar) + (alternator) + (120 vac plug in) to really make it work year round in ID.
 
#29 ·
Is there any particular reason you choose the "Floor and wall kit from AVC Rig" instead something like the Adventure Wagon Kit?
A few reasons:
  • The AVC Rig guys have been really responsive and helpful with questions I've asked (after ordering their roof rack).
  • Mostly I wanted to save myself the headache of templating floors and walls.
  • I don't like or need all that L-track everywhere.
  • The Adventure Wagon kit is on the order of $10k more... it comes with a bunch of stuff that I already have purchased (Thinsulate, electrical wiring / breakers / fuses, MaxxAir fan, etc).
 
#45 ·
I just let the guys at VanCo NorCal decide. I was like.. whatever you think. They said they went with the more forward position based on how it looked from inside as well as outside. I like how it turned out! I'm not that picky about stuff like that. I got bigger electrical systems to fry ;P
 
#51 ·
Yeah, I wanted the double pane acrylic vs glass for insulating value, and I like how wide it opens for air flow. I am trying it out with one fan in the back and this window and will see if there is adequate airflow. If not, I'll add a front fan (maybe, if I can make my roof setup work out!).
 
#52 ·
The AVC Rig floor and wall kit came today. I was able to uncrate it and test fit the floor by myself. Glue-down for floor will definitely require at least two people. It was a lot of trips to take all the wall pieces down two flights of stairs inside to await their turn for install! All the pieces are clearly labeled.

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#53 ·
Thank you maia for starting your thread. The similarities in our build has inspired me to start my own thread and start building again after taking a break. I almost missed it when you said you haven't installed the blind assembly yet on your slider door window. Be careful when you do. My blinds made contact with my flares when the door is fully opened. It looks like our windows are in the same location so you may encounter this also. The tolerance is very tight. Probably less than an 1/8" too tight. Check out my post here for more details.
 
#55 ·
Did some floor stuff today. Located where the Espar heater will go (driver's side just in front of the rear wheel well) and cut out that piece of the floor so the Espar heater can sit directly on the van floor. I gave plenty of clearance since I have the space in this location given my layout. Used a skilsaw to cut this part out. Keeping it just in case :p

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I unrolled the Lonseal and used the AVC Rig floor pieces to template to save myself the trouble of templating with paper later.

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Finally, we glued the AVC Rig floor to the van using 3M 90. You definitely need two people for this. We worked with all three pieces in place to help with placement. There is about 1/4-1/2" play in the kit and we ended up gluing the rear piece about 3/16" too far back, so the hole for the tire access is just slightly off center. We just continued on, no doing anything about that once the 3M 90 is on there! No issues with the doors closing and I don't expect any problems with the trim piece either. We just placed the front two pieces tight to this one.

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I plan to go around the edges with some kind of expanding spray foam to keep any water from getting under or in the sides of the wood. Any recommendations on products?
 
#63 ·
Did some floor stuff today. Located where the Espar heater will go (driver's side just in front of the rear wheel well) and cut out that piece of the floor so the Espar heater can sit directly on the van floor. I gave plenty of clearance since I have the space in this location given my layout. Used a skilsaw to cut this part out. Keeping it just in case :p

View attachment 159566

I unrolled the Lonseal and used the AVC Rig floor pieces to template to save myself the trouble of templating with paper later.

View attachment 159567

Finally, we glued the AVC Rig floor to the van using 3M 90. You definitely need two people for this. We worked with all three pieces in place to help with placement. There is about 1/4-1/2" play in the kit and we ended up gluing the rear piece about 3/16" too far back, so the hole for the tire access is just slightly off center. We just continued on, no doing anything about that once the 3M 90 is on there! No issues with the doors closing and I don't expect any problems with the trim piece either. We just placed the front two pieces tight to this one.

View attachment 159572

I plan to go around the edges with some kind of expanding spray foam to keep any water from getting under or in the sides of the wood. Any recommendations on products?
After my bad experience with great stuff foam (squeaks), we are leaning towards using a body seam sealer to fill the space around the floor edges. The Ford factory product and a 3M product are available.
 
#56 ·
Why not reach out to AVC and see what they recommend? The clearance from the walls looks spot on. It might be tough to not end up with too much foam even if you use the minimally expanding stuff (AKA doors and windows). I suppose if you foam before installation of the finish floor will allow you to trim the excess. Then seal the edges of the finish floor with something else.
Could you do me a favor and measure the width of the floor at it's widest point? I'd like to copy that fit.
 
#57 ·
Why not reach out to AVC and see what they recommend? The clearance from the walls looks spot on. It might be tough to not end up with too much foam even if you use the minimally expanding stuff (AKA doors and windows). I suppose if you foam before installation of the finish floor will allow you to trim the excess. Then seal the edges of the finish floor with something else.
Good idea. They are very responsive on instagram. Their install recommends 3M 94 and I dm'd them on instagram to ask about 90 instead and they got back to me within a couple hours. The thought was mainly to protect the exposed edges of the sheathing since they use that zip system stuff with a built-in moisture barrier and then I'm puttig Lonseal on top, so any moisture would really get trapped. Especially around the big cutout for where the heater will go. I was thinking to apply before the finished floor then trim, and not worry about the edges of the Lonseal.

It is a nice fit indeed, but there are a few places where there is more space (around the wheel wells, for example).

Could you do me a favor and measure the width of the floor at it's widest point? I'd like to copy that fit.
I'll do that tomorrow.