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EcoFlow Power Kit GEN2 Start-To-Finish Installation in my Transit

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#21 ·
atoine said:
Most portable power stations (like the Delta Pro) don't have AC/DC distribution panel to hardwire your loads. They feature a few USB ports and 120V outlets (and sometimes misc ports like Anderson), so you're very limited on what you can connect to them (in terms of how many loads, but also the total DC current they can output).
You'll also have to buy their separate 800W Alternator Charger, I believe, to unlock reasonable alternator charge.

In short, in my opinion, portable stations are fine for "no-build" campervans, or for minivan conversions.
But for a full conversion (lights, fridge, roof fan, usb oulets, water pump, etc.), you're better off with a Power Kit or a DIY system (e.g. Victron).

Hope that makes sense,
Antoine
Click to expand...
Thanks for the explanation, I appreciate it!
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
mcnaughtonderek said:
Apparently this 2.0 version is quieter than the original, are you able to say how noisy this one is? (Maybe hard to baseline without a former unit in which to compare.)
Incredible write up and documentation, btw, thank you!
Click to expand...
I just hooked a 120V outlet and tested it with a heat gun (1500W). It's working great, but that wasn't enough to trigger the fans in the Power Hub unit. So it's too soon for me to comment on the noise, sorry.


fixertable said:
Amazing writeup -- your build has been my main inspiration! How quickly does that 100a alternator input charge the 10kWh while driving? Are you using the stock transit alternator?
Click to expand...
Yes, I have the stock 250A alternator. I'm charging at approximately 1200W, so charge time would be approximately 8-9 hours to get from 0% to 100% (I wouldn't let the SOC get below 10%-20% in the real world). It's a massive battery bank, so I don't expect to discharge it very deeply!

Cheers,
Antoine
 
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#25 ·
Fantastic post and highly appreciated. How many watts DC charging are you getting at low idle? I'm considering running 2 alternator cables, I think this would bring the charge limit to 130 Amps. Did you try this? Also, do you have the dual alternators from ford?
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
Moonbeam said:
Fantastic post and highly appreciated. How many watts DC charging are you getting at low idle? I'm considering running 2 alternator cables, I think this would bring the charge limit to 130 Amps. Did you try this? Also, do you have the dual alternators from ford?
Click to expand...
I'm charging at 100 amp (1300W) at idle.

Anyone correct me if I'm wrong, but...
According to the graph below, the alternator does not output any current at idle. That would mean that any charge I'm getting at idle is "borrowed" from the starter battery bank. Not a big deal on a long road trip, but this could discharge the starter battery on a short commute/traffic.

Graph updated following Chicagoandy's comment. Thanks.
Image





Sources:
1: BEMM 2024 (Graph)
2: Ford Transit eSourceBook 2022 (1.67 Pulley Ratio)


It's possible to increase the RPM at idle, thus the alternator output, with the RPM Control Option (A003). It's been covered in a few posts here:

Personally, for now, I am disabling the "charge while idling".

All of the above is my interpretation of the available data, if anyone has more knowledge on that topic, feel free to chime in!

Cheers,
Antoine
 
#27 ·
Is there a safe way to extend the alternator 20‘ cable that is included with the kit? Was trying to put the power kit on the passenger rear side of the van. I don’t really want to route the cables underneath the van. Was hoping there was a way to extend the alternator cable. Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Dhwes87 said:
Is there a safe way to extend the alternator 20‘ cable that is included with the kit? Was trying to put the power kit on the passenger rear side of the van. I don’t really want to route the cables underneath the van. Was hoping there was a way to extend the alternator cable. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Extending the cable = more voltage drop.

To mitigate voltage drop, you could use a bigger cable (e.g. 0 or 1 AWG):
- from the alternator (from the breaker, to be exact) ---> to the OEM EcoFlow ALT IN positive cable. Both cables could meet at a 5/16" PowerPost (https://amzn.to/3FJh3o3). Make sure the PowerPost (positive hot) is well isolated from the van structure or any metal (which is negative).

That's what I would do! :)
 
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#29 ·
atoine said:
Extending the cable = more voltage drop.

To mitigate voltage drop, you could use a bigger cable (e.g. 0 or 1 AWG):
- from the alternator (from the breaker, to be exact) ---> to the OEM EcoFlow ALT IN positive cable. Both cables could meet at a 5/16" PowerPost (https://amzn.to/3FJh3o3). Make sure the PowerPost (positive hot) is well isolated from the van structure or any metal (which is negative).

That's what I would do! :)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the detailed reply. That helps. Was looking at your alternator charging post on your site and saw that you quoted from BEMM section 4.25 “Ground connections should be routed back close to the location of the +12V supply. This helps to reduce the electromagnetic field particularly generated by inrush current and improve electromagnetic compatibility.”

From my understanding of that, means I should join the Ecoflow ground cable at another PowerPost too and route the larger (0 or 1 AWG) ground cable back behind the drivers seat where your ground BEMM location is?

Thanks!
 
#30 ·
Can you install a few 110v sockets (like you have in your home) around the van off of this? I am intrigued by this. I am getting ready to build a new van myself. I was considering a Victron based system like my last van but this may be worth considering.

I also plan an AC (deciding on roof, or under-mount and 12v vs. 110). A hot water heater that will probably also be 110. On top of that I will have a 12v fridge, and some other misc 12v loads. Do you think this would handle all that?

Thanks,
Eric
 
#31 ·
Furload Pilot said:
Can you install a few 110v sockets (like you have in your home) around the van off of this? I am intrigued by this. I am getting ready to build a new van myself. I was considering a Victron based system like my last van but this may be worth considering.

I also plan an AC (deciding on roof, or under-mount and 12v vs. 110). A hot water heater that will probably also be 110. On top of that I will have a 12v fridge, and some other misc 12v loads. Do you think this would handle all that?

Thanks,
Eric
Click to expand...
Yes, the Gen 1 and Gen 2 both have a power distribution box with several AC and DC outputs. I have 4 GFCI outlets in my van, on a Gen 1 Powerkit. A PK can handle plenty of DC and AC loads. 3600 watt inverter, 70A total DC outputs (Gen 1). The Gen 2 has a more capable inverter and higher battery capacity, but for a van is maybe overkill.
 
#32 ·
Jdierber said:
Yes, the Gen 1 and Gen 2 both have a power distribution box with several AC and DC outputs. I have 4 GFCI outlets in my van, on a Gen 1 Powerkit. A PK can handle plenty of DC and AC loads. 3600 watt inverter, 70A total DC outputs (Gen 1). The Gen 2 has a more capable inverter and higher battery capacity, but for a van is maybe overkill.
Click to expand...
Nice. Do you also have Air Conditioning and higher draw AC loads like convection or hot water heater?
 
#33 · (Edited)
Furload Pilot said:
Nice. Do you also have Air Conditioning and higher draw AC loads like convection or hot water heater?
Click to expand...
I have a portable AC that I bring along when going to hotter places. Just under 1000 watts AC draw plugged into AC outlet and using shore power. We also have a Bosch water heater that uses AC. AC instant pot, tea kettle, and space heater. All runs fine, just run one at a time to avoid overloading shore power or inverter. With a Power Kit, the ideal way to go is to run a 48v DC roof AC, which connects to one of the Gen 1 PK battery ports. The Gen2 has a dedicated 48v DC outputs port which can be used to power an AC.
 
#37 ·
Jdierber said:
I'd not thiught about it, but what about input into a solar port on the Power Hub? Or if OK with inverter loss, then via AC/shore power port.
Click to expand...
I can probably get something to work. Was just wondering if someone had done this already. I was going to do a victron system but I don't like how they don't have any support. You are always referred to an authorized dealer.
 
#38 ·
atoine said:
I just hooked a 120V outlet and tested it with a heat gun (1500W). It's working great, but that wasn't enough to trigger the fans in the Power Hub unit. So it's too soon for me to comment on the noise, sorry.

Yes, I have the stock 250A alternator. I'm charging at approximately 1200W, so charge time would be approximately 8-9 hours to get from 0% to 100% (I wouldn't let the SOC get below 10%-20% in the real world). It's a massive battery bank, so I don't expect to discharge it very deeply!

Cheers,
Antoine
Click to expand...
Awesome post here and on FarOutRide Antoine.

so is it true that the PH fans don't even come on if the load/draw less than ~1500W ?

also would it be possible to order another ALT input cable and tap into both CCP1 and CCP2 of your dual alternator Ford Transit to increase the AC in (reduce charging time) ?
 
#39 ·
atoine said:
I just hooked a 120V outlet and tested it with a heat gun (1500W). It's working great, but that wasn't enough to trigger the fans in the Power Hub unit. So it's too soon for me to comment on the noise, sorry.

Yes, I have the stock 250A alternator. I'm charging at approximately 1200W, so charge time would be approximately 8-9 hours to get from 0% to 100% (I wouldn't let the SOC get below 10%-20% in the real world). It's a massive battery bank, so I don't expect to discharge it very deeply!

Cheers,
Antoine
Click to expand...
@atoine or anyone here could confirm whether this diagram means a Nations 48V alternator, paired with a Wakespeed 500 or ARCO Zeus High Energy Bluetooth Alternator Regulator could achieve 4800W charging speed?

if having two EF ALT input cables connected to both CCP1 and CCP2 (in a dual 250A alternator Transit) and can achieve a total of 2400W, then I would go this option, rather than the Nations + WS500.
2400W vs 4800W but price would be $1100CAD vs $4600CAD, not to mention the easier install.
 
#40 ·
atoine said:
I'm charging at 100 amp (1300W) at idle.

Anyone correct me if I'm wrong, but...
According to the graph below, the alternator does not output any current at idle. That would mean that any charge I'm getting at idle is "borrowed" from the starter battery bank. Not a big deal on a long road trip, but this could discharge the starter battery on a short commute/traffic.
Click to expand...

I realize this is an old post, but I believe this is incorrect.

Regarding the graph - I think you have changed the Axis of the Ford chart to be from Alternator RPM to Engine RPM? And from your citation, you used a 1.67 ratio?

Ford shows this in the 2024 BEMM. (and confirmed in 2026 BEMM)

Image


Using the ratio of 2.7 instead of 1.67 will give you a significantly higher amp output at Idle.

Here's the original chart, and I've calculated the estimated Alternator RPM at idle my taking an idle RPM of 600 and multiplying by 2.7, which gives somewhere around 70 amps for each Ford alternator, or 160 with Dual alternators. Actual amps would be higher since RPM is rarely as low as 600. If Idle is 800RPM, then you have 140 amps available. (800 * 2.7 = 2160).


Image


This matches real-world observations - many of us with big batteries have idled for long periods of time to charge our big batteries. If the alternator weren't generating, we'd very quickly discharge our starter batteries, which has never been the case.

I pull 120amps from Dual Alternators while parked. My starter batteries do not discharge.

Charging house batteries while parked or in traffic has never shown to discharge the starter batteries.
 
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