We had ordered the Renogy DCC50S 12 50A DC-DC On-Board Battery Charger with MPPT.... but then I cancelled the order today. We have a 2020 Transit 250 Cargo Van and I am hearing something about "Smart Alternators" and I don't even know if we have one?? Also hearing that these can actually put a drain on the alternator, and that is scary. Anyway I cancelled the order and decided to see if anyone has installed this or knows if it is okay to install?
Smart Alternator in 2020 Transit 250 Cargo Van??
Tack2
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For engine on info for Victron B2B https://www.victronenergy.com/uploa...upload/documents/Engine-on-detection-set-up-Orion-Tr-Smart-DC-DC-Charger-EN.pdf
No need for extra connection except power.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No need for extra connection except power.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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My plan was to install a deep cycle (house battery) and a voltage sensing relay. Maybe spend 150 bucks. That's when "Smart Charging" took me by surprise as well. From what I understand, the Alternator doesn't charge at the required voltage to chage the house battery all the time. It's a trick Ford uses to save fuel. I went with a Battery to Battery (referred to a "B2B" on the forum) charger. It takes the lower voltage supplied and raises it up to the proper level to charge the house battery, while also isolating it from the van when it's not charging. I went with a Victron Orion 30 amp unit and a 100Ah AGM battery. Seems to work well.
As for your question about CTEK, I can't help, due to I haven't a clue what that is
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I'd suggest that you double check on the lack of signal wire input on the Smartpass. The manual on line for that device indicates there is an input. It's certainly possible that there is a new version but the manual does not indicate any version. If still doesn't appear to be there, I'd suggest calling their tech support.
If it turns out that in fact your device does not have that capability, it can still be used on your van. If you use the Start Stop disable button on your dash, it will also disable Smart Regenerative Charging (SRC), and your CTEK should work fine. The catch with this approach is that you need to press the disable every time you start the van if you want charging. Of course you will also loose the Start Stop and SRC which can be good or bad, but that's a whole different debate. IMO - it's not a big deal either way. It is also possible to disable SRC on a full time basis. See page 124 in this document BEMM Pin 1 and 3 in found under the drivers seat need to be connected. There have been posts that state this approach works. There have been posts that say it doesn't work. It's not a particularly difficult thing to try. This $23 10 pin pigtail connector will make the wiring easy. If you want to get fancy you can a put switch in the line. Then you have a control to have full time disable or the original once per start disable still controlled by the dash button.
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Njvagabond.. Thank you for your detailed reply! I was able to dig up a comment from the CTEK folks stating that the SmartPass is not compatible with smart alternators. I think even with your method of disabling the SRC my CTEK equipment will always have issues. What would be the correct solution for something that is made for smart alternators? The "Victron Energy Orion 30amp DC-DC Isolated" charger? I imagine hooked in to CCP1?
Thank you again for your reply in trying to make my CTEKs work. I don't mind selling them to get what works best on my 21 transit.
Thank you again for your reply in trying to make my CTEKs work. I don't mind selling them to get what works best on my 21 transit.
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I used the non-isolated version, 30 amp hooked to CCP1. I don't see why I'd want to run a return to ground for everything I add when I have a metal van.
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I am not familiar with Victron. It has a very good reputation. IMO it is a premium product at a premium price, much of which is for features that are beyond my capabilities and needs. It I am sure there will be many that disagree. I'd suggest you make sure you understand what configuration of the unit might be required and how to do it.
Kisea, Sterling and Renogy all make B2B's that have ignition signal inputs to enable them to play well with the lower voltages of the smart charging algorithm. Each brand has it's pro's and cons.
I think with one battery you only have CCP1 T, so yes. Ford does not want you to connect directly to the battery. I think they say it messes with their BMS. Many people put a fuse or more likely a breaker at a lower amp rating than the Ford fuse outside of the seat base, since it's a pain to get to the Ford fuse. A breaker also gives you the ability to shut the charger off. (Also handy if you need to store LiFPO4 at recommended 80% SOC)
I am a big proponent of going to the primary source documentation. The manuals for all of these products are on line.
It's can also be a good idea to contact tech support for clarification on any questions. That also gives you an idea of what you could expect if you run into any issues.
Planning on using the DCC50S too and glad you are getting good results. Do you isolate the solar and starter battery inputs with a selector switch?
I'm going Victron for LiFePO4 battery, battery monitor/shunt, BMS, and battery protect. Xantrex for inverter/charger. Renogy DCC50S for solar/starter battery charging (with source isolation selector switch). Trying not to break the bank although the Victron 200Ah battery is not cheap.
Get the separate Renogy units and double your charging capacity. That max-output limit is dumb. For that matter, use the Renogy 60A DC-DC but get a Victron MPPT for nearly the same price as the Renogy.
Get an alternative battery and get way more power for the same money. The Victron batteries are great for a Victron-only system; but even then, I'd run one of the other integration-ready units (like SOK or EG4) to get more powa for the money.
Good feedback, thanks.
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We used quality breakers on every side of the DCCS -- one between CCP 1 and the alternator in (so we can shut that off separately), another between our house busbar+ and DCCS out to shut that off/on, and a third between our Solar array and solar input on the DCCS to shut off our array (usually if we want full 50 amps from alternator).
I’m planning to do something similar with a Blue Sea 9001e switch (https://www.bluesea.com/products/9001e/e-Series_Selector_Battery_Switch), with upstream fuses, that can isolate the solar and starter inputs or combine them or turn all inputs off. 350 amp rating. Locating it on the main control panel in the living area of the van.
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