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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
I'm surprised I haven't stumbled across this video after all my searching here or online. The title is a little ESL but the content is telling.
If the link doesn't post you can search the quick link dZIaZs_pG4A and you will find it.
Is everyone in the rust belt seeing this level of rust? The rest of repairvehicle's problems have been discussed and accepted ... but the rust! Here in CO salt and brine mixes are the weapons of choice and I fear this rust fest is the future.
Thanks for any thoughts on the topic.
-pg
 

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Looks like one of our members that has posted about this stuff yet refuses to just get rid of the van and get a different brand.

That rust is abnormal. My 2015 has rust on the chassis since day 1 but not the body under the paint.
 
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"This is the worst investment you can make"

Very few vehicles are an investment. No daily driver is.

A vehicle is an expense, a loss, or a write-off. But it should add to quality of life in the short term.

Furthermore, that vehicle doesn't look like it ever had undercoating.

Dude has plants growing in the wiper well. That's a maintenance issue, despite the known issues in that area.
 

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He does make some fair points though.

My rear doors rub together at certain points.

I also have some rust beginning in places.

Am I biased, sure. However, I've owned plenty of vehicles and just about all of them have had similar problems.

These things are made of iron and plastic. Iron wants to return to it's natural stable state: iron oxide, a.k.a. "rust". Plastic just wants to stay plastic forever.
 

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Hi all,
I'm surprised I haven't stumbled across this video after all my searching here or online.
It's been posted on here a few times. I'm amazed at how bad his van is yet no one else has this many problems. Most of the stuff he points out is from lack of maintenance or care. He says the doors hit when closing and eventually it will wear the paint off and rust. Yes, if your doors are misaligned this will happen. Normal humans would have the door adjusted instead of letting it get to this point and then making a video about it. I get the impression this was put out by a competitor or someone who is proud of his competitor model van.

He claims oil dilution numbers that frankly would destroy a motor by 10,000 miles, but doesn't say what the actual results were.
 

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It sounds very Greek to me.

My slider would hit the passenger door. I have rust on my chassis since day 1 (it sat on the lot for a year before I bought it). Water dripped on my air filter and got into the box and destroyed the paper filter, sending bits of it through the intake system to the engine. I fixed all these things myself without whining too much. These are light commercial vehicles, designed primarily to be fleet vehicles, they are not "cars" and no one should expect them to have the same build quality or ride as a residential passenger vehicle. I had a very hard time explaining that on the Sprinter forum, because people assumed the Mercedes badge meant they were "luxury cars"; and were whining about the rough ride and other truck things, because they had never owned or driven a truck before.

If someone would like high build quality and car-like ride and performance, they should buy a big SUV instead of a delivery van.
 

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I have to state that Ford is doing a poor job of metal protection on their suspension parts and undercarriage. My 2017 is showing a lot of minor rust all over the suspension arms, McPherson struts and bolts. My 15 year old Jaguar X-types, that are driven year round in winters, have about the same undercarriange rust as my 3 year old Transit. To date, My Transit has been driven less than 500 mile on snowy-salted/mag-chloride roads. I am not happy with the corrosion I can already see on the van. I keep a plastic cover over my ECM, because it is already becoming corroded on the outside due to where the water drains from the windshield. (Plus If I let ice from in the drainage trough, the windshield wiper arms get frozen to the windshield.)
 

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Transits are not built to last not even close to the E series. There are questionable design and build quality flaws that I find hard to accept. Mine's used as a cargo and I have always taken excellent care of all my cargo vans might put custom wheels on them, custom grill, etc. but I'll be reluctant to keep it past the warranty period. I've thrown a lot of money into it but nothing I can't take off and use in a newer Transit if I desired and if they don't change the body where I can't use it. They did that with the E series left the cargo and roof the same I can move shelving, bulkhead, ladder rack, etc. I only reused the shelving once since the 80's models.

It's not built like a tank but doesn't drive like the E series which was a tank.There were things about the E series I hated but every vehicle has it's drawbacks. With that I love my Transit and I think they are the best option available today and would/will buy another.
 

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deja-vue all over again. clearly this guy abuses his truck, its a mess and a half. I would never take his word about a vehicle or his advise. when you abuse any car it will disappoint you. the guibo, the joint he cant remember does in fact have a final solution. he calims the surface rust is "rusted out at the bottom of the doors, he just needs to clean it. I live in pittsburgh where the roads are more salt than asphalt for about half the year, my truck does not look anything like his on the bottom, but I CLEAN IT. there is a recall for the drain troughs, he has never had it done. but yes there is a bad design on the windsheild bottom drain and yes that white paint is a bad idea. theres no perfect vehicle anywhere but this guy would crap up a bentley.
 

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So how many of these issues were fixed in the 2020? Does water still need custom diversion?
The 2020 and late 2019 Transits have a correctly designed air box with the top overlapping the bottom; so water cannot collect in the seam and infiltrate if the filter is not fitted perfectly. However, according to people who've seen the 2020, water will still drip down into the engine compartment. I haven't heard what Ford did about the wiring harness connector directly in the drip zone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Regardless of the water drainage problems which can be addressed with easy technical solutions it is the amount of underbody rust that is incredible to see and no undercoating magic formula can stop that, right?
 

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Nothing can stop it, but it can be slowed significantly. Leaving it dry in a harsh climate/area is foolish.
 

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Out of warranty now, My windshield trough has melted and warped in the hot Mississippi sun!
I am thinking about removing it and just letting the water flow evenly across the engine compartment, Since that is about what it is doing already.
It took about 3-1/2 years for the Trough to start to warp. The Trough is twisting.
 

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Whose oil only last 2200 miles?
I have 235,000 miles on a 2015 transit 250. I send oil sample every oil change. At 9,500 miles there is still good tbn numbers and no engine wear
 

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Whose oil only last 2200 miles?
I have 235,000 miles on a 2015 transit 250. I send oil sample every oil change. At 9,500 miles there is still good tbn numbers and no engine wear
Perhaps someone who's a little bit Mediterranean? Maybe they are using olive oil.
Some people are still living in the middle of the last century, when you had to change your oil every 3500 miles, because it was actual oil, and because engines did not have very good tolerances or efficiency. Meanwhile, in the 21st century, CAD/CAM and synthetic oils that take a very long time to break down mean that 10-15k between oil changes is perfectly safe for regular driving. (That probably gave some oldsters a heart attack, but it's their money, they can spend as much as they want on unnecessary oil changes.)

But unless you're doing a lot of hard towing or belligerent racecar style driving, every 10k miles with synthetic is plenty for a Transit.
 
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