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I am an electrician by trade, I have ALL the skills and tools to build my own system. I think some Purists are purely missing the point of an all in one system. If you have a van set up like mine will be for weekend adventuring (not living the van life bruh) it serves as a power supply that can be continuously charged via the alternator/solar in the van. Living here in the northeast we have power outages quite often and if the Yeti can serve as my van power constantly being charged and run my van set up and serve me well but also pull double duty if I have a power outage at the house it's a win win. A few quick cable disconnects in a power outage and boom, I have a portable power bank I can slap in the house in an emergency. To me, it just makes more sense if I'm spending all that money anyway to have something that pulls double duty and in that case is well worth the invenstment vs just running my van.
I have a DIY electrical system that is in a large housing with wheels. Just drive the van up to the back door and run an extension cord from van to house to run the refrigerator and freezer. System is too heavy to lift and carry to the house.
 

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honestly bitburger I think the 1500X is plenty for my needs. I will only be running a fan, lighting, heater and maybe a fridge eventually. But that's about it, and then when I'm camping probably coffee pot or something like that.
 

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Or people who would rather spend money than their time.
This is completely absurd statement for comparing GoalZero to a DIY Li based system. GZ 3000X has 280AHr and the new 6000X has 550 AHr, plus built in inverter charger. There is no way a DIY solution will time or money over this. Plus the DIY setup will be much larger and not likely to be portable. The only downside of GZ solution is that there is almost no possibility of fault isolation/fix of any component, if something fails outside of the 2 yr warranty.
 

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Getting back on topic, a yeti 3000x costs $3200. The yeti link to run off the alternator cost about $420. If I’m not mistaken that gives a lithium battery with 3000 watts and 280 AH, a 2000 watt inverter, a charge controller, an isolator, outlets etc. Not including labor how much would it cost to have a battery setup w similar components and capability?
I don't see a big advantage of spending $400+ on the link module. The X series (3000X, 6000X etc.) come with a 230W AC charger, just plug that in to the AC outlet in the van. The outlet in my Transit is rated to 400W. Also the X series can take both solar and AC charge at the same time. So if you have 200W solar, you could be charging at around 400W with the combination of AC charger+solar.
The link unit charges at 300-750W, so not a big advantage to spend another $400+

In fact GoalZero also sells a 600W AC charger for $199, that may be a better deal from a properly sized/protected AC outlet in the van and it will also work outside (home, hotel, campsite) to fast charge.
 

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Bluetti AC200, 2000 watts vs GoalZero vs traditional battery setup? Same idea or is that a new thread?
Take a look at the Bluetti AC200, 2000 watts. Early orders for $1599, looks awesome. Will Prowse does a great review of it on YouTube - he was very impressed.
or...?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I don't see a big advantage of spending $400+ on the link module. The X series (3000X, 6000X etc.) come with a 230W AC charger, just plug that in to the AC outlet in the van. The outlet in my Transit is rated to 400W. Also the X series can take both solar and AC charge at the same time. So if you have 200W solar, you could be charging at around 400W with the combination of AC charger+solar.
The link unit charges at 300-750W, so not a big advantage to spend another $400+

In fact GoalZero also sells a 600W AC charger for $199, that may be a better deal from a properly sized/protected AC outlet in the van and it will also work outside (home, hotel, campsite) to fast charge.
Interesting but where in the transit is there an AC outlet?
 

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I used to cringe anytime someone brought up Goal zero , Yeti etc .
The thought of coming up short of power really bothered me , however lately there
offering systems that have quite a bit of power.
Personally I still wouldn't buy one because they have things that I wouldn't want in it ,,
,,example invertor , I don't like invertors.
If it's got everything you want it probably be pretty good deal already to go.
 

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2019 Transit cargo, HR, 3.5 Eco, Quigley 4X4, “Vandemic”
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We have a hybrid-type system in our van. We previously used a Goal Zero 400 in our teardrop trailer with a a 50w Boulder solar panel for off grid charging. When we got our Transit we discussed whether we should sell our GZ because we were installing a 360 Ah lithium battery system/2500w inverter/230w solar in the van. The decision was to keep it. My spouse uses our swivel cab seats and a Lagun table as a portable office. The Goal Zero 400 fits in a small upper cabinet behind the driver’s seat (weighs 12#). She plugs in her MacBook Pro and iPhone into the GZ to keep things charged while communicating with her clients while off grid. It does not require the “house” inverter to be turned on and is it completely separate from the van or house batteries. Can we charge it through the house inverter? Yes. Could we charge it via the Goal Zero solar panel? Yes. We even modified our GZ solar panel to fit into our external Zamp connector to trickle charge our house batteries when the van is covered and not being used for a period of time.
Redundancy is the key. What ever works?
 

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honestly bitburger I think the 1500X is plenty for my needs. I will only be running a fan, lighting, heater and maybe a fridge eventually. But that's about it, and then when I'm camping probably coffee pot or something like that.
Sounds good. I suspect you are right if your needs are light. The key seems to be how long you will go between recharges and how you will recharge. When you pick the size of the battery pack, you will want to think how long you need it to last (weekender vs. vanlife) and if you will be topping it up with solar, generator, alternator)

While most of my trips are short, I try to do a long trip a couple times a year and wanted the comfort of the bigger size. So far I have rarely taken it below 50% capacity so it looks like a 1500x would have generally worked for me also.

Good luck!
 

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My 2017 doesn't have one from the factory.
I see, I checked my Window sticker and I paid for the option "POWER OUTLET (110V/400W) 475.00" but my understanding was that a lower power rating AC outlet was standard on the van. Maybe only for the 2020 model? I have it in my regular car too (VW Touareg, std. from factory).

You could buy a 12V outlet inverter. Those are handy and not very expensive.
 

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2019 Transit cargo, HR, 3.5 Eco, Quigley 4X4, “Vandemic”
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In response to mantan, my AC power outlet is also on the hand brake cover, but it is only 150w unit. I’ve never used it.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
As an FYI, if you plan on purchasing the 3000x, the Yeti link to power from the alternator is not and will not be available until Spring of 2021.
I heard January 2021 for the Yeti link. I don’t have an AC outlet on my 2019 Transit 250 van. I have a GZ charger that plugs into vans 12v outlet. I haven’t tried it yet, I imagine it takes a long time to charge. If the link continues to be delayed I’ll have to look into solar options.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I called them. The first iteration will support tank charting but they don’t expect car charging from the Yeti Link until Spring ‘21, and we all know how timelines go...

I would love for the GZ guy I spoke to be wrong...
That sux. I bought the GZ largely because of the Link.
 
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