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Wiring into window openings on cargo

2730 Views 9 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  impatient
I'm thinking about wiring some outlets and switches in the void formed by the window cavities and my paneling in my conversion cargo van. Unfortunately, there are no holes in the window openings! The back ones do have the indentation where a speaker, I guess, can go, I will probably use those. However, the front window opening has no obvious ways to get into it, except for a gap in my paneling at a point about midway up the panel. Anyone have any suggestions?

I guess I could go with bare wire (no wire loom) under the panel someplace, but I'm afraid I might eventually have a wear spot and cause a short.

Any thoughts appreciated!
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Consider using "SO" cord or an extension cord (cut off ends) laying on bottom ledge held in place with Velcro and then up to the outlet in the wall. "SO" cord is like an extension cord. Have bought several extension cords from HF to use in my wiring in addition to normal "SO" cords where I needed a molded plug or receiver. All my wiring is placed outside the walls/ceiling inside cabinets except for the Maxxair fan wire in the ceiling. Will also have 3 "SO" cords in the built up floor from left side of van to the right side. "SO" cords are very easy to run and eliminate conduit and wire pulling.

I also will have a 2" square plastic tube bolted to the back of the shower wall in the front window indent. Tube is a path for wiring from in back of drivers seat to the open area behind the refrigerator cabinet.
Hey Orton - can you reference pictures of what you are talking about? I'm assuming you're putting the channel under the panel at some junction with the window opening. The good news is that I think it's only a problem with the window behind the driver's seat, I think the rest all have access of some sort.

Thanks!
No picture for two reasons. Not built yet and if it was this site does not allow pictures.

I will have to describe what I will do. I have a shower enclosure directly behind the driver's seat. I will have an electrical panel above the driver's head bolted to the top of the front shower wall that is behind driver. The back shower wall (against van side) will bolt to the van side box that is below the window indent. Just above the lower wall box I need a cable path from behind the driver's seat to the middle of the van. I bought a 2" square PVC tube that I will bolt to the back of the shower wall in the indent that will allow cables to be run behind the back wall at the bottom of the window indent.

If this is not clear send me a phone number and time to call so we can discuss. Be glad to help if I can.
My comment was to remind ME to get some looms...and perhaps remind some other novices like me. I wasn't paying close enough attention that you were talking about specific panels. I'm not near my van at the moment, but I thought all the "semi-sealed" panels were not actually "sealed," but had ways to get in .. though not necessarily big openings or direct routes. I was feeling kind of defeated by that stupid 3.5" plastic channel that runs the full length of the interior, and that I couldn't figure out how to re-route the wire without cutting and soldering back together (no such luck as disconnect at a plug, re-route, reconnect).


I am just now beginning to think wiring.
I discarded the Ford loom wireway. Needed to raise the loom up on the wall so it was inside the upper rear cabinets. Was able to change the wiring at left back bottom rear to get enough slack to raise the loom without cutting any wiring. Replaced Ford wireway with a 1 1/2" square Panduit channel wireway with a snap on cover. Much nicer and easier to access than the Ford attempt.

You also might want to consider using "SO" cords for your wiring. I find it is much easier to install than conduit and wires. I was able to run all my wiring outside the walls inside the cabinets. The only wire buried in the ceiling is the Maxxair fan cable. I have a built up floor that will have two 14/3 120 volt AC cords in floor and one 12/2 DC cord. I notched the 1" rigid polyiso floor insulation to get a cord path from the left side of van to the right side. These 3 cords are accessible by lifting the 3/8" rubber floor mat.
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