[AIRAKULA]

I'd use a ESP32 and a 8 channel relay board (or maybe a 16) and wire everything off that. I'd mount that beside the new house fusebox. I'd use momentary "normally open" switches to trigger the ESP based upon a "change of state" of the switch. I'd write the code so the ESP32 Inputs triggered by a ground signal. That way every switch would only need one very small wire to it from the ESP because I'd ground each one to the body locally to supply the ground. I could have used as many switches as I wanted to for every single device. If I would have done that, I could have controlled everything from my phone over a WiFi access point on the ESP and even used timers in the code if I chose to. Temperature sensors and photocells could have been implemented as well. Manual switches could have been grouped together and wired using just one cat 5 wire allowing 8 switches to be wired with just one small cat 5 wire. The sky would have been the limit and the costs would have been far less. There would have been no need for 3 way or 4 way switches and all that 14 gauge wire. Better control, centrally located components, less wiring, less voltage drop and less chance for a malfunction! The boards are only a few bucks and the 32's are inexpensive. Hindsight is 20/20 I guess!

I am using a Latching 6 Channel Relay Board with momentary contact switches. These switches are switching the negative as you describe. No need for load carrying 3/4 way wiring, also as you describe.

Thanks for introducing me to the ESP32.

 

[mototreks]

I'd use a ESP32 and a 8 channel relay board (or maybe a 16) and wire everything off that. I'd mount that beside the new house fusebox. I'd use momentary "normally open" switches to trigger the ESP based upon a "change of state" of the switch. I'd write the code so the ESP32 Inputs triggered by a ground signal. That way every switch would only need one very small wire to it from the ESP because I'd ground each one to the body locally to supply the ground. I could have used as many switches as I wanted to for every single device. If I would have done that, I could have controlled everything from my phone over a WiFi access point on the ESP and even used timers in the code if I chose to. Temperature sensors and photocells could have been implemented as well. Manual switches could have been grouped together and wired using just one cat 5 wire allowing 8 switches to be wired with just one small cat 5 wire. The sky would have been the limit and the costs would have been far less. There would have been no need for 3 way or 4 way switches and all that 14 gauge wire. Better control, centrally located components, less wiring, less voltage drop and less chance for a malfunction! The boards are only a few bucks and the 32's are inexpensive. Hindsight is 20/20 I guess!

Thanks for the info as it had me rethinking the RedArc Redvision system again but it’s too limited. Now I’m looking at something like the RCR Force-12

RCR-FORCE-12 - Switch-Pros

www.switchpros.com

 

[orton]

Thanks for the info as it had me rethinking the RedArc Redvision system again but it’s too limited. Now I’m looking at something like the RCR Force-12

RCR-FORCE-12 - Switch-Pros

www.switchpros.com

Do you really need that many switches? $980 is expensive.

In my conversion I have 6 switches. 5 located where I am standing or sitting when I want to turn on a light. 1 switch behind sink to turn the water pump on/off. The fan, refrigerator and microwave are operated with their controls.

I have learned it is much more convenient to operate a function from where I am located than it is to walk to a central switch panel and then walk back to where I was.

 

[mototreks]

Do you really need that many switches? $980 is expensive.

In my conversion I have 6 switches. 5 located where I am standing or sitting when I want to turn on a light. 1 switch behind sink to turn the water pump on/off. The fan, refrigerator and microwave are operated with their controls.

I have learned it is much more convenient to operate a function from where I am located than it is to walk to a central switch panel and then walk back to where I was.

The also have an 8 switch version and the ability to connect 3 panels. And then there is the phone app too. But, I do agree that switches are better off near the place one needs them vs a central panel.
I haven’t figured out how many things need to be switched yet. Maybe three sets of indoor lights, an outside light or two, water pump will need to be controlled in two areas, air compressor. Heater and refrig have there own controls as does the inverter - guess I need to start a list.

 

[orton]

Maybe three sets of indoor lights, an outside light or two, water pump will need to be controlled in two areas, air compressor.

I had too many lights in the Sprinter build. Thought about where I actually needed lights in Transit build.

Removed the four Ford LED lights reused them powered by the house battery.

One above the rear doors with switch next to it. One above shower with switch up high on shower wall. Two above the sink with switch on side of sink accessible from front of sink and from outside the slider door. No lights turn on when slider door is opened. Only other lighting is two LED strips inserted in bottom 80/20 slot in upper cabinets above the bed. LED on/off switches located on bottom of cabinets reachable from bed or when standing in the aisle.

Instead of a high amperage DC permanently mounted air compressor I bought a less expensive portable 120 volt AC compressor powered by the house 1000 watt inverter. Instead of piping air I just carry the compressor to where I want it.

1 Gallon 135 PSI Ultra Quiet Hand Carry Jobsite Air Compressor (harborfreight.com)

 

[mototreks]

I did the portable air compressor thing and now have a fixed unit. I often air up my tires multiple times a day and nothing beats a fixed high output compressor for getting the job done quickly. Which, is why custom builds are so much better than getting something pre-built - you get exactly what you want.

 

[tngw1500se]

Thanks for the info as it had me rethinking the RedArc Redvision system again but it’s too limited. Now I’m looking at something like the RCR Force-12

RCR-FORCE-12 - Switch-Pros

www.switchpros.com

Wow that's a handful of cash! Also, what happens a year from now when some part of it fails and the company is history? You can build your own system for less than 100 bucks, get what you want and have a drawer full of spare parts.

 

[mototreks]

I guess you would need look for a replacement There is RedArc as well a sPOD that make similar devices. I’ve had an sPOD in my Jeep for 9 years without any problems so I’m not too worried about reliability as these things can take a beating. Yes, they do cost some money but they are easy to use and setup. Some people may not feel comfortable building/programming their own hardware so these are an option that accomplish the same goal.

 

[TonyD-ROAMR]

Wow that's a handful of cash! Also, what happens a year from now when some part of it fails and the company is history? You can build your own system for less than 100 bucks, get what you want and have a drawer full of spare parts.

I'm planning on using this unit in my van. Been using them on several vehicles over the years and been very happy. As it pertains to them going anywhere, they are here to stay as much as anyone. If anything, they have been growing exponentially. Full disclosure, i know them personally( they are a family owned business) and from my experience, and comments from others, their customer service is unparalleled... Feel free to give them a ring with any questions as depending on their caffeine level, chances are you will get more info than you ever wanted/needed. haha