WIRING: If I had it to do over again.....

Not sure how this will post but here we go:
FEEL FREE TO USE AND/OR MODIFY AS YOU DESIRE
Copy and past text below into Arduino
//*

// Designed for ESP32 other boards may not operate
// Use momentary normally open switches / Light duty switches are all that is needed.
// Each press of a button changes the relays state to "off" or "on"
// Changing GPIO pin numbers is not recommended
// Do not use a solid state relay board to switch DC
// Connect as many button panels as you wish to every GPIO pin can be connected to more than once
//Ground each switch back to the ESP. I'd do it through the van body.
// One ground is all that's required for all the switches in each panel location.
//The ESP must be grounded to the van body

// Buttons should be connected to GPIO pins listed below
const int ButtonOne = 27; //wire color: Orange
const int ButtonTwo = 1; //Wire Color: Orange White
const int ButtonThree = 3; //Wire Color: Blue
const int ButtonFour = 5; //Wire Color: Blue / White
const int ButtonFive = 13; //Wire Color: Green
const int ButtonSix = 14; //Wire Color: Green / White
const int ButtonSeven = 23; //Wire Color: Brown
const int ButtonEight = 26; //Wire Color: Brown / White

// Relays should be connected to GPIO pin listed below
const int RelayOne = 2;
const int RelayTwo = 4;
const int RelayThree = 12;
const int RelayFour = 16;
const int RelayFive = 17;
const int RelaySix = 18;
const int RelaySeven = 19;
const int RelayEight = 25;

int ButtonOneState = 0;
int ButtonTwoState = 0;
int ButtonThreeState = 0;
int ButtonFourState = 0;
int ButtonFiveState = 0;
int ButtonSixState = 0;
int ButtonSevenState = 0;
int ButtonEightState = 0;

int LastButtonOneState = 0;
int LastButtonTwoState = 0;
int LastButtonThreeState = 0;
int LastButtonFourState = 0;
int LastButtonFiveState = 0;
int LastButtonSixState = 0;
int LastButtonSevenState = 0;
int LastButtonEightState = 0;

int ButtonOnePushCounter = 0;
int ButtonTwoPushCounter = 0;
int ButtonThreePushCounter = 0;
int ButtonFourPushCounter = 0;
int ButtonFivePushCounter = 0;
int ButtonSixPushCounter = 0;
int ButtonSevenPushCounter = 0;
int ButtonEightPushCounter = 0;

int DeBounceTime = 20; // used to de-bounce the pushbuttons

void setup() {
pinMode(ButtonOne, INPUT_PULLUP); // sets pins as input pullups
pinMode(ButtonTwo, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode(ButtonThree, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode(ButtonFour, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode(ButtonFive, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode(ButtonSix, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode(ButtonSeven, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode(ButtonEight, INPUT_PULLUP);

pinMode(RelayOne, OUTPUT); // sets relay pins as outputs
pinMode(RelayTwo, OUTPUT);
pinMode(RelayThree, OUTPUT);
pinMode(RelayFour, OUTPUT);
pinMode(RelayFive, OUTPUT);
pinMode(RelaySix, OUTPUT);
pinMode(RelaySeven, OUTPUT);
pinMode(RelayEight, OUTPUT);

digitalWrite (RelayOne, LOW); // sets each relay to off when ESP boots
digitalWrite (RelayTwo, LOW);
digitalWrite (RelayThree, LOW);
digitalWrite (RelayFour, LOW);
digitalWrite (RelayFive, LOW);
digitalWrite (RelaySix, LOW);
digitalWrite (RelaySeven, LOW);
digitalWrite (RelayEight, LOW);

delay(1000); //A little time for thinking
}
void loop() {
ButtonOneState = digitalRead(ButtonOne); // reads state of button
if (ButtonOneState != LastButtonOneState) {
if (ButtonOneState == HIGH) {
ButtonOnePushCounter++;
}
else {}
}
delay (DeBounceTime);
LastButtonOneState = ButtonOneState;
if (ButtonOnePushCounter % 2 == 0) {
digitalWrite(RelayOne, HIGH);
} else {
digitalWrite(RelayOne, LOW);
}

ButtonTwoState = digitalRead(ButtonTwo);
if (ButtonTwoState != LastButtonTwoState) {
if (ButtonTwoState == HIGH) {
ButtonTwoPushCounter++;
}
else {}
}
delay (DeBounceTime);
LastButtonTwoState = ButtonTwoState;
if (ButtonTwoPushCounter % 2 == 0) {
digitalWrite(RelayTwo, HIGH);
} else {
digitalWrite(RelayTwo, LOW);
}

ButtonThreeState = digitalRead(ButtonThree);
if (ButtonThreeState != LastButtonThreeState) {
if (ButtonThreeState == HIGH) {
ButtonThreePushCounter++;
}
else {}
}
delay (DeBounceTime);
LastButtonThreeState = ButtonThreeState;
if (ButtonThreePushCounter % 2 == 0) {
digitalWrite(RelayThree, HIGH);
} else {
digitalWrite(RelayThree, LOW);
}

ButtonFourState = digitalRead(ButtonFour);
if (ButtonFourState != LastButtonFourState) {
if (ButtonFourState == HIGH) {
ButtonFourPushCounter++;
}
else {}
}
delay (DeBounceTime);
LastButtonFourState = ButtonFourState;
if (ButtonFourPushCounter % 2 == 0) {
digitalWrite(RelayFour, HIGH);
} else {
digitalWrite(RelayFour, LOW);
}
ButtonFiveState = digitalRead(ButtonFive);
if (ButtonFiveState != LastButtonFiveState) {
if (ButtonFiveState == HIGH) {
ButtonFivePushCounter++;
}
else {}
}
delay (DeBounceTime);
LastButtonFiveState = ButtonFiveState;
if (ButtonFivePushCounter % 2 == 0) {
digitalWrite(RelayFive, HIGH);
} else {
digitalWrite(RelayFive, LOW);
}
ButtonSixState = digitalRead(ButtonSix);
if (ButtonSixState != LastButtonSixState) {
if (ButtonSixState == HIGH) {
ButtonSixPushCounter++;
}
else {}
}
delay (DeBounceTime);
LastButtonSixState = ButtonSixState;
if (ButtonSixPushCounter % 2 == 0) {
digitalWrite(RelaySix, HIGH);
} else {
digitalWrite(RelaySix, LOW);
}
ButtonSevenState = digitalRead(ButtonSeven);
if (ButtonSevenState != LastButtonSevenState) {
if (ButtonSevenState == HIGH) {
ButtonSevenPushCounter++;
}
else {}
}
delay (DeBounceTime);
LastButtonSevenState = ButtonSevenState;
if (ButtonSevenPushCounter % 2 == 0) {
digitalWrite(RelaySeven, HIGH);
} else {
digitalWrite(RelaySeven, LOW);
}

ButtonEightState = digitalRead(ButtonEight);
if (ButtonEightState != LastButtonEightState) {
if (ButtonEightState == HIGH) {
ButtonEightPushCounter++;
}
else {}
}
delay (DeBounceTime);
LastButtonEightState = ButtonEightState;
if (ButtonEightPushCounter % 2 == 0) {
digitalWrite(RelayEight, HIGH);
} else {
digitalWrite(RelayEight, LOW);
}
}

Pajarojo said:

Given my (lack of ) skills, I suspect that I may take the advice of LostInWoods and just use a 3.3 or 5V relay to then trigger the higher amp 12V relay:

Click to expand...

That's a good idea. You could use Mosfets if you wanted to but the relay boards will handle the higher current, keep it somewhat simple and not have to worry about heating up mosfets. The draw back is not being able to dim the lights using a PWM signal which could be done with mosfets using (millis) as the timer. If you tried it with relays, they'd buzz and not last very long. The (delay) function sucks for most advanced coding. Millis is better.

You could also delete anything in the code that mentioned "eight" and use one of the cat wires as a ground return to the ESP. That would limit you to 7 switches with each cat wire but eliminate the need to use the body as a return ground and depend of Ford!

Also if you wanted indicator lights above each switch, you could run another cat to the switch panel from the outputs on the ESP. If the corresponding output was HIGH the LED would be lit.

I'd would have put three panels in my van. One near the bed. One near the kitchen and one up in the cab.

One switch could also be used to ground the RST (reset) pin on the ESP32. The way I wrote the code, if the ESP resets, everything goes LOW so it could be used as a "Master all off". Sometimes a microprocessor gets a little "sideways" and needs a reset or a smack in the forehead! That "Master Reset button would reset any malfunction that ever occurred. If you have something you want to be on when a reset occurs, just change the line to HIGH in "void setup".

Have fun!

@tngw1500se
I am not sure if I should thank your or curse you on this one, I read this and it got my mind spinning and have been chasing it since. I really like the idea. I am fully down the rabbit hole. I have never done any programming like this before so it has been a really steep curve. I have a couple boards now and am learning as I go but was able to get the multiple buttons to work with one LED which is a bit of a miracle really for me. I have a question hopefully you can answer. I have been building on a breadboard for testing and the tutorials i have found all have me using a resistor with the LED and switch. My understanding is that this is to keep the power down so as not to burn out any of the pins. My question is will I need to use resistors when I actually wire in the relays or will the relays themselves provide the needed resistance?
Probably a very basic question, but learning on the fly here and any advice would be greatly appreciated.

WyoLogz said:

@tngw1500se
I am not sure if I should thank your or curse you on this one,

Click to expand...

LOL! If you don't blow up a few boards you're not learning anything.

Just use a relay board that has opto-couplers. Most relay boards have them built in.

Expensive example: LINK Better price can be found.

It isolates your 3.3 or 5 volt electronics from the 12 volt stuff. No need for resistors. DON'T USE A STANDARD AUTOMOTIVE RELAY. Just make sure the board you pick is triggered by the voltage you're using. ESP's output 3.3 volts and other micro-controlers output 5 volts. NOTE : The board may require 5 volts to operate but wants to see 3.3 as a trigger(s). If you try to trigger a relay board that wants to see a 5 volt trigger signal with 3.3 volts you'll be disappointed in the result. I'm guessing you're using resistors because you're testing with LED's. The relay board doesn't need those resistors on the triggers.

NOTE: Solid state relays might sound good but they don't like to switch DC voltage. They switch on (or off) when the AC wave form is at the zero cross over point. (See below) DC current has no cross over point. If you're switching AC they're a good choice.




NOTE: If you want more inputs or outputs than your controller has pins for, use a "shift register" or two, or three or four!!!
Now you'll really curse me

tngw1500se said:

NOTE: Solid state relays might sound good but they don't like to switch DC voltage. They switch on (or off) when the AC wave form is at the zero cross over point. (See below) DC current has no cross over point. If you're switching AC they're a good choice.

Click to expand...

When I installed my vehicle 12 volt powered inverter I wanted to delay the inverter start so inverter would start after the engine was running. I uses one of the user defined switches for the engine run signal. The user defined switches are powered in the accessary key position before engine starting so without a delay the inverter would have started before the engine started.

Bought a solid state DC time delay relay. Purchased relay did not delay the inverter start. Thought relay was defective so got a replacement relay. Second relay also did not delay the signal. Had to replace the relay with a relay with mechanical contacts. The third relay with contacts worked. A solid state relay used on 12 volt DC has enough leakage that the 12 volt signal to start the inverter was present through the relay with or without the delay.

Pajarojo said:

🤣

Same here. I kinda took the ball and ran with it on this one. In addition to controlling lighting I've so far added 5 ds18b20 temp sensors that'll control various tank,pipe and battery warming pads and I'm now researching adding an IR blaster to try to control my Maxxair 7500 fan. I'm also dabbling with getting an MQ-7 CO sensor that will trigger the maxxair fan and also shut down my auxiliary gasoline heater if it detects CO in the van. Not sure if I'll pull off the MQ-7 and IR stuff but it's fun toying with it!

Click to expand...

Sounds ambitious what are you using for a controller?

Why no cameras, GPS and servos to control the steering and brakes? Limited on GPIO's?

Some advice:

#1: Cut your hair really short so it's hard to get a good hold on it. Ripping out roots causes real damage.

#2: When editing a "working" code, the first thing I do is type a line that says:
"//Started editing a working code HERE on 11/11/2021 10:14AM"
That way if things go south, you can click "undo" and you'll know when to stop "undoing" when you get back to that line. If you're happy with the changes, you can delete the line or just leave it since it's a "//" line.

#3: Store your code on a USB flash drive or a cloud based storage. Don't depend on Bill Gates and one hard-drive to keep it for you.

#4: Program more than one micro-controller so you have a second working device. When you accidentally touch a connection with a hot or ground and the smoke comes out you'll have a spare.

KEEP US INFORMED ON PROGRESS!

Currently I'm busy with painting since my wife found the nails!!! She can't decide where she wants the pictures so she moves them a lot. (##@%**&^%$#) I thinking a 5 gallon bucket of drywall mud would be a perfect wedding present for most couples or just buy houses with metal walls and magnets on the pictures!!!

I have been looking for ways to make wiring lighting easier.

Especially as it applies to wanting on / off switches in multiple locations and lights in multiple locations.

The wiring can become complex very quickly.

It seems like the concept is here - but the implementation - at least initially - seems complex to me.

I have not written code since Fortran in 1984, so perhaps that is why.

Might need some help to make all of this work.

Do not want to use phone / application to turn on lights - strictly with switches.