Ford Transit USA Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

Registered
2018 Ford Transit High Roof 250
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here is my attempt at a wiring diagram. Tell me how I screwed up please. I've spent way to much time trying to figure it all out but would like to have a second set of eyes to confirm I'm not creating a death trap. :)

 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Anchorless

Registered
Joined
437 Posts
Very clean. That 3-way battery switch so you can power inverter from either van or house batteries. Why not just let smartness charge batteries all the time and draw inverter from house batteries only? Maybe squeeze in a third 100 amp panel.
 

Registered
2018 Ford Transit High Roof 250
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Very clean. That 3-way battery switch so you can power inverter from either van or house batteries. Why not just let smartness charge batteries all the time and draw inverter from house batteries only? Maybe squeeze in a third 100 amp panel.
The 3 way switch is only intended to be used as a way to disconnect power to the 12v Fuse Panel and the Inverter so if I need to do maintenance/work on those systems I can.

Do you mean another 100 watt solar panel?
 

Registered
Joined
34 Posts
You want the 200amp fuse connected to the house battery AND THEN the battery switch (you have the switch first).

The 200amp fuse connected to the 1500watt inverter is not needed because it uses the same size wire that's connected to the battery and that wire is already protected with a fuse.

AC and DC negative should remain separate; the 12/3 negative AC will connect to your 1500w inverter AND NOT to the DC negative busbar.
 

Registered
Joined
671 Posts
Here are my observations about a very nice, clear diagram (good work!). These are just a start since I'm only semi-knowledgeable on RV wiring:

1) The blue lead from the house battery. What's that for? Assuming it is an instrumentation signal lead, then there is probably a ground or -V component to that lead that needs to be shown.

1a) Probably the same thing with leads to the Victron meter.

2) Ground connections need to be clearer. There are apparently some implied -12V/ground connections not shown.

3) Schematic for the AC outlets have them connected to the -12VDC bus. That's OK provided you are defining that connection as 110VAC ground, but if that's the case, use green to designate that connection.

4) Really need to color-code the AC runs differently than the DC. Suggest red/black for DC and orange/gray for AC, with green grounds for AC. In real life these will probably be red/black and black/white/green inside white Romex. The black ambiguity in mixed AC/DC systems always bothers me and I personally would take the time and spend the money to make sure that AC wiring is very clear by using code-compatible colors (such as orange for hot, gray for neutral and green for ground) in an orange split loom, which is automotive code for >60V.

I'm a little OCD about wiring, as you can tell. Comes from wiring buildings and working on electric cars.
 

Registered
2018 Ford Transit High Roof 250
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
You want the 200amp fuse connected to the house battery AND THEN the battery switch (you have the switch first).

The 200amp fuse connected to the 1500watt inverter is not needed because it uses the same size wire that's connected to the battery and that wire is already protected with a fuse.

AC and DC negative should remain separate; the 12/3 negative AC will connect to your 1500w inverter AND NOT to the DC negative busbar.
Thanks! Made a few updates.

 
  • Like
Reactions: MikeQBF

Registered
Joined
671 Posts
Good - you updated while I was composing the post. Much, much clearer on the AC, but I'd still do orange/gray lines.

It's great you're thinking it through like this. Sure beats my chicken scratchings on yellow legal pads.
 

Registered
Joined
437 Posts
The 3 way switch is only intended to be used as a way to disconnect power to the 12v Fuse Panel and the Inverter so if I need to do maintenance/work on those systems I can.

Do you mean another 100 watt solar panel?
So, yes, 3-way will allow OFF-VAN-HOUSE connection. I just do not see the point of being able to power inverter from van battery, when you could just charge the house from the van via Smartpass and run the inverter from the house batteries at the same time. Your disconnect switches on van and house battery will serve as full power disconnect to all house systems, presuming Smartpass (which I know little/nothing about myself--just what I have read on this forum) only connects to house battery, not via 3 way to house/inverter. However, your system as designed will work just fine and give you more flexibility at cost of more parts and complexity.

Yes, I was thinking of going to 300 watt total solar, presuming you have sufficient roof area. I would expect you do. It sort of depends on how much driving vs sitting you will be doing to keep house charged.
 

Registered
Joined
437 Posts
New diagram. It appears you have no way to charge house battery from shore power, or is the PST an inverter/charger? And, if shore input is 30A connector, I would use 10/3 wire.
 

Registered
2018 Ford Transit High Roof 250
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Feedback added

Further updates based on the feedback and further review.

Some additional notes that may be useful for discussion.
鈥 I'm use a standard 120v house plug for shore power with the intent to not exceed a traditional 20A outlet in the van.
鈥 If later down the road I added a 2nd 155 ah battery, would this system be sufficient?

 

Registered
Joined
637 Posts
Very nice diagram! While I really don't have much to add, I am curious as to how you are showing the Shurflo pump wired. So why not tied to the DC fuse block like other DC circuits? The reason I ask is that I am about to add the same pump to mine and want to make sure I am not missing something.
 

Registered
2018 Ford Transit High Roof 250
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Very nice diagram! While I really don't have much to add, I am curious as to how you are showing the Shurflo pump wired. So why not tied to the DC fuse block like other DC circuits? The reason I ask is that I am about to add the same pump to mine and want to make sure I am not missing something.


I have it grounded to the chassis on the rear driver side of the van. I鈥檓 not 100% that鈥檚 okay but I think it should be fine. Open to any feedback on that approach.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Registered
Joined
671 Posts
Adding a second house battery later will be best with a separate charge manager, if only a B2B from the primary house battery. If you did two batteries from the beginning the charge manager would be less important because the batteries would age together.

GFCI outlets on the distribution may be redundant since the Samlex has that function built-in, along with general circuit protection.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Munky

Registered
2018 Ford Transit High Roof 250
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Anybody got any more feedback?!?
 

Registered
2018 Ford Transit High Roof 250
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Need a relay in the water pump circuit , simple to do .

Buy a (standard 30 amp automotive relay) from the auto parts store
What's the purpose of the relay?
 

Registered
Joined
637 Posts
What's the purpose of the relay?
Not positive, but I believe to protect the wire/switch. Using a switch (low amperage circuit) to turn on/off the pump (high amperage circuit) could exceed amperage of switch (melt wires?)??

This is what I came up with doing a google search. Guess it couldn't hurt to get one for my water pump..they are cheap.
 

Registered
2018 Ford Transit High Roof 250
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Not positive, but I believe to protect the wire/switch. Using a switch (low amperage circuit) to turn on/off the pump (high amperage circuit) could exceed amperage of switch (melt wires?)??

This is what I came up with doing a google search. Guess it couldn't hurt to get one for my water pump..they are cheap.
Gotcha. Makes sense.
 

Registered
2018 Ford Transit High Roof 250
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Version 3

Updated diagram with relay on water pump (is that wired correctly?). Indicated all negative lines running to fuse block for 12v DC.

Questions:
1. Does the 2018 Ford Transit have a "smart alternator"? Basically asking, Do I need to connect that ignition wire on the CTEK D250SA?

2. What size breaker do I put in front of the Fuse Block coming from the battery? Or is it really needed if the line is only less than 2 feet long to it from the bus bar that has a 200A fuse before it?
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
437 Posts
I feel that the relay for the water pump is unnecessary and too complex. There is no point. There is not that much current running to the pump. I would also run a negative wire back to the negative buss, just like you do with other loads.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top