Much has been discussed about aftermarket battery isolators on this forum, Search: ACR (Automatic Charge Relay)Is this question part of the thread? Maybe I should ask this somewhere else.
There is a standard battery guard on the 2020 that is not programmable and does not provide the additional 200A power point.. One would have to check the BEMM for other years. THE FPBG is optional and I hear is "late availability" for 2020.Is this question part of the thread? Maybe I should ask this somewhere else.
I would agree with the following caveats:Still seems like a fairly useless thing to me. A $30 high current relay/solenoid correctly connected to be on only with engine run signal gives you the same or better functionality.
I'm interested in taking this approach, but I think that to meet my energy requirements, I'd probably end up idling for 20 minutes or so on an almost daily basis. Do anyone have any insight as to whether this would result in significant excess wear on the engine (e.g., due to running it cold(er) more often--concerns here involve less efficient lubrication and less completely combusted fuel; and "putting it to bed wet--," that is turning it off when combustion moisture has been generated, but perhaps the system hasn't gotten hot enough to effectively evaporate the moisture in the exhaust system?) It might seem like I've answered my own question (Namely: Yes, idling is less good for the engine than running it normally), but I guess my REAL question is, is it "less good" enough to matter much? (Note: I would like this van to last a long time. But, I'd also like to save big bucks on my electrical system, while being able to still use some fairly high-wattage items.One thing that a lot of people don't consider is that you can run the engine when running large loads. On my current camper, I have good but not great capacity (350 AH lead acid). I regularly use a hot water kettle, which draws over 1200 watts (100 amps). If I am in a situation where I might run low on electricity, I use my autostart to fire up the engine while running the kettle. On my particular setup, I will get about 80 amps from the alternator, so I am only using 20 amps from the battery. Using a strategy like this can allow you to design a less robust (and less expensive) storage and charging system, and still meet your needs.