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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my 20 gallon wheel well tank from NW Conversions installed this weekend. I wanted to figure out a way to have it securely anchored in place without increasing the footprint of the tank. My floor is 1/2" ply and I don't fully trust a couple 1/2" screws as mounting points for something this heavy.

My solution was to cut out a piece of baltic birch the size/shape of the tank footprint, then mount 1.5x1.5" aluminum angle to it to keep the tank in place. Some aluminum bar was used to provide support for the whole tank, and this was screwed to the floor with lots of screws:
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For anchor points, I routed out cavities under the angle for stout D-rings. These get trapped between angle and ply, with a 1.25" screw holding them down.

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Upper anchor points are attached to Plusnuts under the thermal barrier. I got some ratchet straps to tie the whole thing down, and replaced the lower hooks with simple knots as the hooks are unwieldy and will get in the way. The final product seems pretty solid! Any suggestions or input welcome.

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Nice execution. Might be worth punching through the steel floor on once or twice; but probably be fine once it's all buried. Overall, solid and simple. Well done! 馃挭
 

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Yeah, your gonna want to thru bolt those floor d rings. Its only 160 pounds or so, X 3g's in a wreck....
 

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Just curious, what is the advantage of using straps? I have seen many using straps for their batteries and water tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just curious, what is the advantage of using straps? I have seen many using straps for their batteries and water tank.
Advantage vs. what? Using straps vs. using nothing? The goal is to keep the heavy stuff (water tank, battery) in place while driving or in case of an accident. I also went with straps rather than metal brackets because they鈥檙e much easier to install and remove.
 

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My 24 gallon SS freshwater tank is inside a 80/20 framework. Frame is bolted to the floor frame and to the van walls. The tank is bolted to the 80/20 framework.

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Yes, 80/20 is the way to go for a water tank and batteries. Straps have way too much play for my liking. If this is temperately installed for a weekend trip, no problem.
 

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This is a situation where a wheel well tank works to your advantage. The wheel well limits how far the tank can move forward, in a major crash. There is a few inches of fore and aft play in the positioning of the tank, over the wheel wheel. It might be good practice to push the tank forward as far as possible.

I will be ready to mount the same tank in a couple weeks.
 

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The mention of play is interesting. I've found straps to be the least play as they can be cinched - and re-cinched - to keep snug. Unsure what might be best in a high-energy situation, of course... but we place a lot of faith on rope and straps as rock-climbers and riggers. 馃し鈥嶁檧锔
 

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but we place a lot of faith on rope and straps as rock-climbers and riggers. 馃し鈥嶁檧锔
Interesting reference to rigging application. I guess it is hard to use 80/20 for rigging my mainsail. I have no doubt the strap is strong enough, but you would not expect Ford will use a strap to secure their engine to the subframe. There are plenty of other options.
 

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Interesting reference to rigging application. I guess it is hard to use 80/20 for rigging my mainsail. I have no doubt the strap is strong enough, but you would not expect Ford will use a strap to secure their engine to the subframe. There are plenty of other options.
For sure. I'm not saying - by any means - that our experience makes us right. Probably just the opposite. What we see is all there is. Rigging in our circle is more similar to rock-climbing - but for other functions - but that premise of selecting the right fibrous cord to assure something is secure seems a go-to. Thankfully, engines are not secured in such a manner!

That said... I blew out motor mounts on an Audi by adding too much power to the engine. Those urethane ones were NOISY compared to rubber. And a friend - WAY back - ended up backing up one side of the motor mounts (in a Nova with a big block, IIRC) with a chain since all the available mounts would snap. Maybe the right rope would be better... 馃 馃榿
 

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Nice attention to detail and construction.

The piece I wonder about is the amount of vertical play in the tank because of where the upper straps mount. Having those anchors above the upper lip of the tank is not ideal. In the case of a front end collision, I would expect the tank to want to move forward and up due to that type of collision.

This setup relies mostly on the lower few inches of the tank catching on the short vertical piece of the wheel well to absorb most of the forces of the tank. Thus, the priority is you must hold the tank down during a crash as much as anything. The front angle helps a little with forward movement, but is no match for the weight of a full water tank at high speed.

I think you've basically got a solid setup once you eliminate the vertical play and prevent the tank from losing connection with the floor.
 

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Or.... it's water and by the time the tank gets past the wheel well it will be loose water helping to put out the fire.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Reasonable points all. I鈥檝e added a fore-aft strap around the midsection of the tank, anchored to Plusnuts and 80/20, which should help keep it in place in the event of a front-end collision (photos of these straps coming soon.) With the final install, the tank is largely trapped (still removable if empty) by bike tray, electrical cabinet, and water pump housing. If a crash happened that managed to get this thing anywhere near the passenger compartment, the water tank would probably be the least of our worries鈥

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