am i understanding you correctly? Ford dealership is charging $450 for oil change and recommending one every 1500 miles?? Great kocamunga - and i thought the Toyota dealership had gone crazyMy dealer says to change the oil every 1500 miles and only use the oil they have for the service, made of magic beans. At $450 for an oil change, it's cheap insurance against breakdowns and ogres.
It sounds good, but I'm thinking that changing it every 500 miles would be better.
To be fair, that's with a pre-purchase of ten oil changes for the calendar year. I don't know how much a single change would be, but I'm sure it's a bargain. 🤠am i understanding you correctly? Ford dealership is charging $450 for oil change and recommending one every 1500 miles?? Great kocamunga - and i thought the Toyota dealership had gone crazy
iirc, it was the early 2000s when a lawsuit was filed against Mobil1 claiming that it was not a true synthetic. I think it came out that they had done something in the processing to alter the molecules of petroleum oil, and then had petitioned the Petroleum Industry Association to change the definition of synthetic motor oil to include Mobil1. The association granted their request, and then Castrol followed suit.My 1st oil change on my brand new Transit was at a Ford dealer in Oregon...where I was at the time. Went reasonably well until I got the bill of sale: 7 qts of 5w20 (and they charged me for 2 additional qts). Of course ALL U.S. 3.5 EcoBoost Transits require 6 qts of 5w30. They acted like I was a fool for questioning their work. Of course it takes 7 qts, they said, and of course they really put 5w30 in it, despite what their official record indicated.
Next attempted oil change was again in north central Oregon...same dealership (I didn’t learn my lesson). Needed appointment: 1 week out. Called to reschedule as date approached and was told it would be an additional full week. Cancelled, and took Walmart-sourced Motorcraft oil of the correct viscosity, and Motorcraft filter to an independent, who happily let me watch them pour 6 qts the correct oil in...which filled it.
3rd change, at another Ford dealership in east-central Utah. The “Ford Works” oil change etc” offer was still being offered which included 5 qts (and tire rotation). I screwed up and asked that the additional 6th qt to be full synthetic. Service performed, including tires rotated. A couple hundred miles down the road, I checked fire pressure. 70 in fronts, 49 in rears. So they didn’t bother to adjust pressures after rotation. Also, I called to ask exactly what was the 6th quart. They said it was 5w20 semi-syn, despite being charged for full syn (I expected 5w30 full syn).
Strike two (or is that 3)
Next change, any reason to try using dealer again??? Back in Oregon, again thought I would upgrade to full syn. Chose Pennzoil, and because of a rebate, I chose Ultra Platinum. No issues taking Walmart-sourced PUP (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum) to an independent. I’d done some research, and concluded Pennzoil was a good choice.
Next change, ~5200 miles later, about to embark on road trip home, so had oil changed before I left Oregon. No PUP at the local Walmart, so went with regular Platinum (still full syn). I didn’t realize, but it was the “newer approved for Turbos” version (SN+), I presume as close to the Ford 946-B1 spec as available from Pennzoil at the time (and maybe even today)
Got home, but turned around and took another trip to Colorado/Utah/Arizona. Got home, and decided I would get a “routine” Used Oil Analysis at time of oil change (~6150 mi), DIY. I thought the UOA it would be a good “benchmark” for comparison against future UOA’s. I had no reason to suspect any issues, except other UOA’s on F150 EcoBoosts were showing fuel dilution and other issues. I chose Amsoil (Polaris lab) for the analysis because they did a proper test for fuel dilution...Blackstone did not.
The analysis showed several issues, including moderate fuel dilution. In layman’s terms, there was about 1/4quart of gas in the oil. Oil viscosity was in mid 20w. This launched some investigation into EcoBoosts and Pennzoil.
Takeaways (applicable to 3.5 EcoBoost):
1) Ford 3.5 Ecoboosts, especially the version in the Transit (and all pre-2018 F150’s, certain Tauruses,and Mustangs, are prone to fuel dilution, which screws with viscosity and lubricating capabilities.
2) Pennzoil starts out thinner than many other 5w30’s (and thinner than their claimed specification), and shears down, or loses viscosity for fuel dilution reasons. Look at results on BobIsTheOilGuy for Pennzoil UOA’s and VOA’s (Virgin Oil Analysis)
3) some EB’s have more fuel dilution problems than others, and various solutions have been proposed (new high-pressure fuel pump, new injectors, oil catch-can, and some other fixes and hacks).
4a) some EcoBoost 3.5 owners have resorted to “thicker” or otherwise more robust oils as “insurance” to preserve their EB’s against the inevitable thinning / degrading caused by the fuel dilution
4b) I intend to be one of these owners (owners) looking for some “insurance.”
4c) Rotella Gas Truck or Rotella Multi-vehicle MIGHT be good approaches. (Rotella is a Shell product, just like Pennzoil) but is a very different formulation). These are available in 5w30. European A3/B4 oils MIGHT be more stout than typical USA “resource-conserving” oils, but if it matters, they do not meet Ford’s specs (FYI,there is a Pennzoil Euro oil, in addition to Castrol ‘s & Mobil’s 0w40 Euro oils). There is also a foo-foo brand of bio-synthetic oil called Renewable Lubricants (RLI). They make a number of oil viscosities targeting gas engines and Diesel engines. I am THINKING of trying one of theirs; however they do not have Ford’s official stamp of approval. The oil expert I’ve “consulted with” thinks the correct RLI oil can SAFELY be used for 10,000 miles in my EcoBoost, with better results than many “household name” oils (at shorter intervals).
So, best advice would be to employ this expert (Terry Dyson) to look at your “used oil” and make recommendations based on YOUR results. 2nd best advice would be to have your oil analyzed and make your own decision based on your results. 3rd best is to just use more stout oil (see 4c above) without having your own oil analyzed. 4th best would be to use other top-quality full-synthetic oil EXCEPT Pennzoil Platinum. IMHO, you should base your decision (on which brand) on others’ experiences...see BobIsTheOilGuy website. Distant 5th is to use Pennzoil and just “take it” when the dealer tells you you need timing chain, or new valves, or worse, at some mileage. Of course, you might never have such issues, but my UOA indicated I should NOT continue Pennzoil Platinum (USA version) nor Pennzoil Ultra Platinum at ANY oil change interval (I had one UOA at a mere 800 miles). That’s too bad, because the concept of converting natural gas to liquid ((GTL) is not bad, it’s just that Pennzoil appears to be cutting corners...unless all the UOA’s are wrong/misleading.
My dim view of the Motorcraft semi-syn is based on BITOG opinions as well as my consultant. There are better oils...of course there are worse. Personally, I would think the FULL syn Motorcraft or its Kendall sibling, is better than the semi-syn Motorcraft.
FYI: Older Castrol Magnetec semi-syn had a stellar reputation for EcoBoosts on BITOG...not sure of newer formulation.
There appears to be a trend in the oil business: build a strong brand loyalty, then milk it/market it, while cheapening it, sucking the goodness out of it (possible examples: Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Magnetec, and even Edge).
To those who have had 200k miles with no issues: congratulations. To those of you looking for 200k miles without issue, and without concern, to quote Clint Eastwood: do you feel lucky?
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nope - no UOA..........
Larry, have you done a UOA (used Oil Analysis) on the LiquiMoly? I’d be interested in seeing that if you have.