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Discussion Starter #21
Thanks for all the replies. I bought a oil filter at ford and I have Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 in my garage already, that’s what I use for my F250 diesel.
Great info here to get me started.
 

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AutoZone has Pennzoil in the 6qt jug of full synthetic with a free extended life filter for around $33. They allow me to make multiple purchases for my many vehicles. Great results for decades on and off the track.

Definitely change every 5000 and not when the computer alerts you to. Wait till 6000 once and you will see the difference. Reset the computer for every change and log it in your manual and save the receipt there as well.

Get the largest drain pan/jug you can and always place a large piece of cardboard under it in case it shoots out. Leaving the fill cap on and removing the drain bolt very slowly slows the flow but your wrist will get dirty even with a glove on.

Purchase a separate multi gallon jug with huge pour spout to pour from your wide pan/jug into and collect till it’s full. Put it in a couple clean paper bags to keep your car clean and take it to the local landfill so that they get the revenue rather than AutoZone if possible..

Enjoy the guys dream chore by doing it right.
 

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My dealer says to change the oil every 1500 miles and only use the oil they have for the service, made of magic beans. At $450 for an oil change, it's cheap insurance against breakdowns and ogres.

It sounds good, but I'm thinking that changing it every 500 miles would be better.
 

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My dealer says to change the oil every 1500 miles and only use the oil they have for the service, made of magic beans. At $450 for an oil change, it's cheap insurance against breakdowns and ogres.

It sounds good, but I'm thinking that changing it every 500 miles would be better.
am i understanding you correctly? Ford dealership is charging $450 for oil change and recommending one every 1500 miles?? Great kocamunga - and i thought the Toyota dealership had gone crazy
 

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am i understanding you correctly? Ford dealership is charging $450 for oil change and recommending one every 1500 miles?? Great kocamunga - and i thought the Toyota dealership had gone crazy
To be fair, that's with a pre-purchase of ten oil changes for the calendar year. I don't know how much a single change would be, but I'm sure it's a bargain. 🤠
 

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My 1st oil change on my brand new Transit was at a Ford dealer in Oregon...where I was at the time. Went reasonably well until I got the bill of sale: 7 qts of 5w20 (and they charged me for 2 additional qts). Of course ALL U.S. 3.5 EcoBoost Transits require 6 qts of 5w30. They acted like I was a fool for questioning their work. Of course it takes 7 qts, they said, and of course they really put 5w30 in it, despite what their official record indicated.

Next attempted oil change was again in north central Oregon...same dealership (I didn’t learn my lesson). Needed appointment: 1 week out. Called to reschedule as date approached and was told it would be an additional full week. Cancelled, and took Walmart-sourced Motorcraft oil of the correct viscosity, and Motorcraft filter to an independent, who happily let me watch them pour 6 qts the correct oil in...which filled it.

3rd change, at another Ford dealership in east-central Utah. The “Ford Works” oil change etc” offer was still being offered which included 5 qts (and tire rotation). I screwed up and asked that the additional 6th qt to be full synthetic. Service performed, including tires rotated. A couple hundred miles down the road, I checked fire pressure. 70 in fronts, 49 in rears. So they didn’t bother to adjust pressures after rotation. Also, I called to ask exactly what was the 6th quart. They said it was 5w20 semi-syn, despite being charged for full syn (I expected 5w30 full syn).

Strike two (or is that 3)

Next change, any reason to try using dealer again??? Back in Oregon, again thought I would upgrade to full syn. Chose Pennzoil, and because of a rebate, I chose Ultra Platinum. No issues taking Walmart-sourced PUP (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum) to an independent. I’d done some research, and concluded Pennzoil was a good choice.

Next change, ~5200 miles later, about to embark on road trip home, so had oil changed before I left Oregon. No PUP at the local Walmart, so went with regular Platinum (still full syn). I didn’t realize, but it was the “newer approved for Turbos” version (SN+), I presume as close to the Ford 946-B1 spec as available from Pennzoil at the time (and maybe even today)

Got home, but turned around and took another trip to Colorado/Utah/Arizona. Got home, and decided I would get a “routine” Used Oil Analysis at time of oil change (~6150 mi), DIY. I thought the UOA it would be a good “benchmark” for comparison against future UOA’s. I had no reason to suspect any issues, except other UOA’s on F150 EcoBoosts were showing fuel dilution and other issues. I chose Amsoil (Polaris lab) for the analysis because they did a proper test for fuel dilution...Blackstone did not.

The analysis showed several issues, including moderate fuel dilution. In layman’s terms, there was about 1/4quart of gas in the oil. Oil viscosity was in mid 20w. :( This launched some investigation into EcoBoosts and Pennzoil.

Takeaways (applicable to 3.5 EcoBoost):

1) Ford 3.5 Ecoboosts, especially the version in the Transit (and all pre-2018 F150’s, certain Tauruses,and Mustangs, are prone to fuel dilution, which screws with viscosity and lubricating capabilities.
2) Pennzoil starts out thinner than many other 5w30’s (and thinner than their claimed specification), and shears down, or loses viscosity for fuel dilution reasons. Look at results on BobIsTheOilGuy for Pennzoil UOA’s and VOA’s (Virgin Oil Analysis)
3) some EB’s have more fuel dilution problems than others, and various solutions have been proposed (new high-pressure fuel pump, new injectors, oil catch-can, and some other fixes and hacks).
4a) some EcoBoost 3.5 owners have resorted to “thicker” or otherwise more robust oils as “insurance” to preserve their EB’s against the inevitable thinning / degrading caused by the fuel dilution
4b) I intend to be one of these owners (owners) looking for some “insurance.”
4c) Rotella Gas Truck or Rotella Multi-vehicle MIGHT be good approaches. (Rotella is a Shell product, just like Pennzoil) but is a very different formulation). These are available in 5w30. European A3/B4 oils MIGHT be more stout than typical USA “resource-conserving” oils, but if it matters, they do not meet Ford’s specs (FYI,there is a Pennzoil Euro oil, in addition to Castrol ‘s & Mobil’s 0w40 Euro oils). There is also a foo-foo brand of bio-synthetic oil called Renewable Lubricants (RLI). They make a number of oil viscosities targeting gas engines and Diesel engines. I am THINKING of trying one of theirs; however they do not have Ford’s official stamp of approval. The oil expert I’ve “consulted with” thinks the correct RLI oil can SAFELY be used for 10,000 miles in my EcoBoost, with better results than many “household name” oils (at shorter intervals).

So, best advice would be to employ this expert (Terry Dyson) to look at your “used oil” and make recommendations based on YOUR results. 2nd best advice would be to have your oil analyzed and make your own decision based on your results. 3rd best is to just use more stout oil (see 4c above) without having your own oil analyzed. 4th best would be to use other top-quality full-synthetic oil EXCEPT Pennzoil Platinum. IMHO, you should base your decision (on which brand) on others’ experiences...see BobIsTheOilGuy website. Distant 5th is to use Pennzoil and just “take it” when the dealer tells you you need timing chain, or new valves, or worse, at some mileage. Of course, you might never have such issues, but my UOA indicated I should NOT continue Pennzoil Platinum (USA version) nor Pennzoil Ultra Platinum at ANY oil change interval (I had one UOA at a mere 800 miles). That’s too bad, because the concept of converting natural gas to liquid ((GTL) is not bad, it’s just that Pennzoil appears to be cutting corners...unless all the UOA’s are wrong/misleading.

My dim view of the Motorcraft semi-syn is based on BITOG opinions as well as my consultant. There are better oils...of course there are worse. Personally, I would think the FULL syn Motorcraft or its Kendall sibling, is better than the semi-syn Motorcraft.

FYI: Older Castrol Magnetec semi-syn had a stellar reputation for EcoBoosts on BITOG...not sure of newer formulation.

There appears to be a trend in the oil business: build a strong brand loyalty, then milk it/market it, while cheapening it, sucking the goodness out of it (possible examples: Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Magnetec, and even Edge).

To those who have had 200k miles with no issues: congratulations. To those of you looking for 200k miles without issue, and without concern, to quote Clint Eastwood: do you feel lucky?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Unless a person is disabled, why the F would they take their car to a dealership for an oil change? You KNOW they are going to screw it up or screw you with some sort of fraud, AND it's going to be 3-4x the price of a Jiffy Change type place for the exact same oil and filter and service.

We really need to emphasize that dealership "service" centers are a rip-off, and are inferior in almost all aspects to independent shops. If you still believe you get better quality parts or service at a dealership, and that justifies the exorbitant expense, it can only be from lack of experience and knowledge.
 

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Generally valid point, Bill, but if you are 2000 miles from home, in a remote area, you are probably going to pay SOMEONE to do it. I have just as many quickie-lube disappointments as I have dealer disappointments. My preference is DIY, but I’m not going to do it in a State Park, National Forest, or on BLM land.
 

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My 1st oil change on my brand new Transit was at a Ford dealer in Oregon...where I was at the time. Went reasonably well until I got the bill of sale: 7 qts of 5w20 (and they charged me for 2 additional qts). Of course ALL U.S. 3.5 EcoBoost Transits require 6 qts of 5w30. They acted like I was a fool for questioning their work. Of course it takes 7 qts, they said, and of course they really put 5w30 in it, despite what their official record indicated.

Next attempted oil change was again in north central Oregon...same dealership (I didn’t learn my lesson). Needed appointment: 1 week out. Called to reschedule as date approached and was told it would be an additional full week. Cancelled, and took Walmart-sourced Motorcraft oil of the correct viscosity, and Motorcraft filter to an independent, who happily let me watch them pour 6 qts the correct oil in...which filled it.

3rd change, at another Ford dealership in east-central Utah. The “Ford Works” oil change etc” offer was still being offered which included 5 qts (and tire rotation). I screwed up and asked that the additional 6th qt to be full synthetic. Service performed, including tires rotated. A couple hundred miles down the road, I checked fire pressure. 70 in fronts, 49 in rears. So they didn’t bother to adjust pressures after rotation. Also, I called to ask exactly what was the 6th quart. They said it was 5w20 semi-syn, despite being charged for full syn (I expected 5w30 full syn).

Strike two (or is that 3)

Next change, any reason to try using dealer again??? Back in Oregon, again thought I would upgrade to full syn. Chose Pennzoil, and because of a rebate, I chose Ultra Platinum. No issues taking Walmart-sourced PUP (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum) to an independent. I’d done some research, and concluded Pennzoil was a good choice.

Next change, ~5200 miles later, about to embark on road trip home, so had oil changed before I left Oregon. No PUP at the local Walmart, so went with regular Platinum (still full syn). I didn’t realize, but it was the “newer approved for Turbos” version (SN+), I presume as close to the Ford 946-B1 spec as available from Pennzoil at the time (and maybe even today)

Got home, but turned around and took another trip to Colorado/Utah/Arizona. Got home, and decided I would get a “routine” Used Oil Analysis at time of oil change (~6150 mi), DIY. I thought the UOA it would be a good “benchmark” for comparison against future UOA’s. I had no reason to suspect any issues, except other UOA’s on F150 EcoBoosts were showing fuel dilution and other issues. I chose Amsoil (Polaris lab) for the analysis because they did a proper test for fuel dilution...Blackstone did not.

The analysis showed several issues, including moderate fuel dilution. In layman’s terms, there was about 1/4quart of gas in the oil. Oil viscosity was in mid 20w. :( This launched some investigation into EcoBoosts and Pennzoil.

Takeaways (applicable to 3.5 EcoBoost):

1) Ford 3.5 Ecoboosts, especially the version in the Transit (and all pre-2018 F150’s, certain Tauruses,and Mustangs, are prone to fuel dilution, which screws with viscosity and lubricating capabilities.
2) Pennzoil starts out thinner than many other 5w30’s (and thinner than their claimed specification), and shears down, or loses viscosity for fuel dilution reasons. Look at results on BobIsTheOilGuy for Pennzoil UOA’s and VOA’s (Virgin Oil Analysis)
3) some EB’s have more fuel dilution problems than others, and various solutions have been proposed (new high-pressure fuel pump, new injectors, oil catch-can, and some other fixes and hacks).
4a) some EcoBoost 3.5 owners have resorted to “thicker” or otherwise more robust oils as “insurance” to preserve their EB’s against the inevitable thinning / degrading caused by the fuel dilution
4b) I intend to be one of these owners (owners) looking for some “insurance.”
4c) Rotella Gas Truck or Rotella Multi-vehicle MIGHT be good approaches. (Rotella is a Shell product, just like Pennzoil) but is a very different formulation). These are available in 5w30. European A3/B4 oils MIGHT be more stout than typical USA “resource-conserving” oils, but if it matters, they do not meet Ford’s specs (FYI,there is a Pennzoil Euro oil, in addition to Castrol ‘s & Mobil’s 0w40 Euro oils). There is also a foo-foo brand of bio-synthetic oil called Renewable Lubricants (RLI). They make a number of oil viscosities targeting gas engines and Diesel engines. I am THINKING of trying one of theirs; however they do not have Ford’s official stamp of approval. The oil expert I’ve “consulted with” thinks the correct RLI oil can SAFELY be used for 10,000 miles in my EcoBoost, with better results than many “household name” oils (at shorter intervals).

So, best advice would be to employ this expert (Terry Dyson) to look at your “used oil” and make recommendations based on YOUR results. 2nd best advice would be to have your oil analyzed and make your own decision based on your results. 3rd best is to just use more stout oil (see 4c above) without having your own oil analyzed. 4th best would be to use other top-quality full-synthetic oil EXCEPT Pennzoil Platinum. IMHO, you should base your decision (on which brand) on others’ experiences...see BobIsTheOilGuy website. Distant 5th is to use Pennzoil and just “take it” when the dealer tells you you need timing chain, or new valves, or worse, at some mileage. Of course, you might never have such issues, but my UOA indicated I should NOT continue Pennzoil Platinum (USA version) nor Pennzoil Ultra Platinum at ANY oil change interval (I had one UOA at a mere 800 miles). That’s too bad, because the concept of converting natural gas to liquid ((GTL) is not bad, it’s just that Pennzoil appears to be cutting corners...unless all the UOA’s are wrong/misleading.

My dim view of the Motorcraft semi-syn is based on BITOG opinions as well as my consultant. There are better oils...of course there are worse. Personally, I would think the FULL syn Motorcraft or its Kendall sibling, is better than the semi-syn Motorcraft.

FYI: Older Castrol Magnetec semi-syn had a stellar reputation for EcoBoosts on BITOG...not sure of newer formulation.

There appears to be a trend in the oil business: build a strong brand loyalty, then milk it/market it, while cheapening it, sucking the goodness out of it (possible examples: Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Magnetec, and even Edge).

To those who have had 200k miles with no issues: congratulations. To those of you looking for 200k miles without issue, and without concern, to quote Clint Eastwood: do you feel lucky?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
iirc, it was the early 2000s when a lawsuit was filed against Mobil1 claiming that it was not a true synthetic. I think it came out that they had done something in the processing to alter the molecules of petroleum oil, and then had petitioned the Petroleum Industry Association to change the definition of synthetic motor oil to include Mobil1. The association granted their request, and then Castrol followed suit.

I was using Mobil1 and noticed that it would turn dark brown not much longer than normal petroleum oil. Then i went with Liqui moli and noticed the oil didn't start to darken until the 18,000 to 20,000 mile mark, vs the 7,000 to 10,000 mile mark of the Mobil1.

That was back in 2005 when i swapped, so Mobil1 may have changed, improved whatever since then. But that lawsuit over their petitioning the petroleum assoc to including their molecularly altered petroleum oil was what turned me off from them

There were a couple of petroleum chemical engineers on a car forum i was a member of, when all this came about. But what i remember, whenever they pointed us a comparison ranking by an organiztion they respected, Amsoil, Shell Rotella, Liqui Moly and Royal Purple were always in the top five brands. Memory is foggy on what the 5th brand.

fwiw
 

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Oil chemistries change every year or two. Sometimes it’s noted in the bottles or on their websites, and sometimes it isn’t. Sometimes the change is good, sometimes it is government-mandated (could be good or bad), and sometimes it’s just to cheapen the product/boost profits.

Larry, have you done a UOA (used Oil Analysis) on the LiquiMoly? I’d be interested in seeing that if you have.
 

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There are 4000 ways the Transit will break down before any metal on metal contact in the motor will cause a problem. As humans we love to create problems for ourselves to think about. Some have more value per energy expenditure than others, and this particular topic is a very low value way to spend energy.
 

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each dealer has a team of detectives combing through oil record changes so they can void warrenties

They have teamed up with both the CIA and the Fbi under the law of the 2012 patriot act of 2012 to monitor your speed, direction of travel , forum posts, and communications to make sure all oils are being changed and as many warranties are being voided as possible. So yes as long as you have nothing to hide you should be OK. All this is in your user manual
 

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..........

Larry, have you done a UOA (used Oil Analysis) on the LiquiMoly? I’d be interested in seeing that if you have.
nope - no UOA

But i just recalled what prompted me to choose it - it was one of the few oils suggested or approved by Mercedes Benz, Porsche and BMW in their home market (Germany)
 

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Yeah, ^that^, plus many (or all) direct injection engines have trouble with intake valve deposit issues. There’s no fuel mixed with the air flowing through the intakes cooling and cleansing the backside of the valves. Not unique to EcoBoost. F150’s (and maybe other vehicles) got dual injection (port AND direct injection) a couple years ago to mitigate this issue, but Ford hasn’t seen fit to put this Gen2 EcoBoost in the Transit (at least not through 2019). Off memory, I’m thinking the Gen2 may also have an altered timing chain setup to reduce the stretch issues. But fuel dilution is my concern, which messes with oil lubricity, which allows wear (including on the timing chain). Notice this video suggest using synthetic oil and changing it every 8000 Km (5000 miles).


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I run the AMS OIl signature 5/30 that they claim is good for 25k miles.. Change it every 8-9k miles. Also run a 16 ounce can of CAM GAURD. This additive was tested several years ago and was given a good review. It quiets down the valve train in our 3.7, especially turning 6500 rpm towing a trailer. Rear drive diff oil gets changed every 2 years. Pretty easy with a PML aluminum finned cover and drain plug.
 
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