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I want to change my own engine oil. What oil and filter do you guys use? And how many quarts are needed?
Thanks
 

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at Walmart, $5-12 for a filter and less than $25 for a jug of synthetic oil that meets specs listed in owners manual. I'm suspicious of the additional "protection" of the more expensive filters, but I buy the middle of the road one for around $7-8.
 

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Oh yeah, read oil change threads for tips on how to avoid draining oil all over everything from the sideways plug, and the vertical filter. It can be a real mess the first time you do it.
 

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Oem oil filters , Ford dealer sales them cheap , heard bad story's about some after market filters.
Find what the owner manual recommends for oil and fill to the dipstick mark.
I think my manual said 6 quarts 5w40 summer
5w30 winter
 

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Oh yeah, read oil change threads for tips on how to avoid draining oil all over everything from the sideways plug, and the vertical filter. It can be a real mess the first time you do it.

Maybe I read the wrong posts, because I still made a royal mess. Ford gets the prize for making this the most messy process. Probably worth paying someone else to do it (just bring your own oil). Even punching a hole in the filter doesn’t seem to drain all the oil lurking above the filter. A Fumoto drain valve would reduce the mess, but given the orientation of the drain hole, I would think it PREVENTS complete draining. It would be interesting to know how much actually doesn’t drain (with and without a Fumoto).

**** PERSONALLY, I will not use Pennzoil Platinum (again). Not even Ultra Platinum. Both start out thinner than most, thinner than what they claim, and shears down to be even thinner. After a 6000 mile interval, I had my used oil tested. My viscosity was down to mid-to-low 5w20 (Pennzoil starts out at the bottom of the 5w30 range, barely, and it thinned down considerably over that 6000 miles). It didn’t fare all that well on remaining “additive base,” nor other measurements either. That said, I don’t think Motorcraft Semi-syn is much, if any, better., though it is thicker. You can alarm the sh*t out of yourself reading various Ecoboost horror stories (intake valve carbon build-up, fuel dilution, intercooler issues). I still like (want) the Ecoboost, but I am still searching for the ultimate (affordable/ widely-available) oil. Some people suggest going out-of-spec: either thicker (like 0w40 Euro, or maybe a diesel-oriented oil).

A well-respected oil guru is helping me. I’m not supposed to discuss my results (I.e. non-disclosure) but let’s just say, most “household-brand” oils are not his favorites...for my situation... I live in Texas, not Canada, hence my concern with low viscosity. You can google him: Terry Dyson, or dysonanalysis.com. If you employ him, his advice to you might differ from his advice to me. He has some first-hand experience with Ford EcoBoost design & engineering.

Bottom-line: I am going to err on the expensive side of oils to keep my fussy EcoBoost clean as a whistle. Im talking beyond Mobil 1 AP, or Royal Purple, or Castrol Edge. I’m also going to pay more attention to the quality of gas I use. Cheap insurance, maybe.

EDIT: deleting some opinions

Terry never commented on a spec called “HTHS” (high temperature, high stress), but MY HUNCH it’s where so many common 5w30 oils fall flat. I shoot for an HTHS of 3.5; most USA 5w30 oils are around 2.9. Again, my OPINION, not his advice.

If you have a turbo, be cautious; this oil business is more confusing than it should be...partially because of well-meaning government regulations or industry reactions to those regulations (improved fuel economy, direct-injected motors, longer drain intervals, and turbo-charged 4-cyl and v6’s, instead of v8’s, etc). That said, I’m all for less pollution and fuel consumption (jealous of Mercedes fuel economy).

There endeth the sermon.
 

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I change oil on my cars. During the last 8 years I got used to Subaru, where you go to Subaru parts and get their branded synthetic, filter and crusher washer.

Today I went to a Ford dealer to get filter and washer (I assume). The parts dept turned out to be closed and they looked at me like I was an idiot "just go to auto parts store". Sure enough, local Walmart has both oil and filters, exactly to the Ford specs, to the letter.

The user manual has in specifications section oil details for your engine. The filter can be looked up on Ford parts site.

I hear people complaining it is messy. I assume this is about the same process as on my former '96 F150. Always a bit tricky, but using a trash bag I could usually catch all or most oil from filter. I will find out for real tomorrow.

P.S. OMG Forester is so good in that respect, a complete non-event. The filter is dry and on top. But Subie oil is expensive.

P.P.S. In my experience, don't obsess about oil. Change at the vendor specified intervals and use what the vendor recommends. The first thing to die will be the transmission anyway, and the engine itself will last longer than most other parts (like way over 200K) before having any issues related to lubrication.
 

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I installed the Fumoto valves on all my vehicles over the years, I used this one for the van, Fumoto F-106N Engine Oil Drain Valve , just use a piece of hose (1/2-Inch OD x 3/8-Inch ID) on the nipple and drop the hose in a oil container, open the valve and drain the oil, no mess at all. I use the Mobil 1 M1-212A Extended Performance Oil Filter and 6 quarts of Castrol 03086 EDGE Extended Performance Full Synthetic 5w20 , and only change the oil once per year.
 

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The 2019 owners manual I referred to in post #2 requires 6 quarts 5W-30 engine oil (3.5L only) that meets oil spec WSS-M2C946-B1. This is a recently updated spec from the old WSS-M2C946-A.

Shopping for oil that meets this newer spec, I only found Motorcraft and Mobil 1 Full Syn with the B1 spec on their label.

This made my oil choice easier.
 

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Did the oil change, not bad. I am trying to remember which vehicle was that where the filter was both difficult to access and drain a bunch of oil when unscrewed. May have been the Honda Odyssey. The Transit is fine: at least everything is accessible and does not splash on the underbody parts. Will do again :)

Hint: wear dishwashing gloves when changing oil (this stuff is not healthy on your skin).

On another note, the build looks pretty crazy to me. A plastic oil filler, WTF? You look under and there are all these exposed connectors and wires. What's gonna happen after one winter of driving in the salt and ice and snow? There's not a single piece of splash guard of any kind on the underbody (look at the Subaru, they painstakingly protect every angle from road debris!).

I feel like these vans built as cheaply as possible and basically to just last the lease period and be thrown out. I think it may be a good idea to get rid of it before warranty runs out.
 

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... I am trying to remember which vehicle was that where the filter was both difficult to access and drain a bunch of oil when unscrewed...
Sounds like a Transit to me. (At least the EcoBoost)




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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In my V6 Tacomas, the oil filter was best removed via locking the front wheels all the way to one side and pushing aside the rubber skirt in the wheel well to reach the filter. There was wiring and hoses and lines in such a way that you could not get the filter out through the top. Also a contortionist move to get it out through the bottom. Transit isn't so bad if you have a wide enough bucket to catch the oil.
 

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In my V6 Tacomas, the oil filter was best removed via locking the front wheels all the way to one side and pushing aside the rubber skirt in the wheel well to reach the filter. There was wiring and hoses and lines in such a way that you could not get the filter out through the top. Also a contortionist move to get it out through the bottom.....
The "new" Ranger is similar. What was Ford thinking?
 

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The "new" Ranger is similar. What was Ford thinking?
Well, it might have been a request by companies that sell and service Ford vehicles (aka dealerships). I'll bet there is a "trick" that once known everyone will slap their head and say "of course!"
 

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Did the oil change, not bad. I am trying to remember which vehicle was that where the filter was both difficult to access and drain a bunch of oil when unscrewed. May have been the Honda Odyssey. The Transit is fine: at least everything is accessible and does not splash on the underbody parts. Will do again :)

Hint: wear dishwashing gloves when changing oil (this stuff is not healthy on your skin).

On another note, the build looks pretty crazy to me. A plastic oil filler, WTF? You look under and there are all these exposed connectors and wires. What's gonna happen after one winter of driving in the salt and ice and snow? There's not a single piece of splash guard of any kind on the underbody (look at the Subaru, they painstakingly protect every angle from road debris!).

I feel like these vans built as cheaply as possible and basically to just last the lease period and be thrown out. I think it may be a good idea to get rid of it before warranty runs out.
You might want to get the inner fender liners that Ford makes, but won't install as standard equipment, yes it is a schitty design.
 

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Well, it might have been a request by companies that sell and service Ford vehicles (aka dealerships). I'll bet there is a "trick" that once known everyone will slap their head and say "of course!"
The more I learn about Ford, the more I'm seeing they prioritize design flaws within their products. That new 10 spd transmission, for example 😕
 

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Maybe I read the wrong posts, because I still made a royal mess. Ford gets the prize for making this the most messy process. Probably worth paying someone else to do it (just bring your own oil). Even punching a hole in the filter doesn’t seem to drain all the oil lurking above the filter. A Fumoto drain valve would reduce the mess, but given the orientation of the drain hole, I would think it PREVENTS complete draining. It would be interesting to know how much actually doesn’t drain (with and without a Fumoto).

**** PERSONALLY, I will not use Pennzoil Platinum (again). Not even Ultra Platinum. Both start out thinner than most, thinner than what they claim, and shears down to be even thinner. After a 6000 mile interval, I had my used oil tested. My viscosity was down to mid-to-low 5w20 (Pennzoil starts out at the bottom of the 5w30 range, barely, and it thinned down considerably over that 6000 miles). It didn’t fare all that well on remaining “additive base,” nor other measurements either. That said, I don’t think Motorcraft Semi-syn is much, if any, better., though it is thicker. You can alarm the sh*t out of yourself reading various Ecoboost horror stories (intake valve carbon build-up, fuel dilution, intercooler issues). I still like (want) the Ecoboost, but I am still searching for the ultimate (affordable/ widely-available) oil. Some people suggest going out-of-spec: either thicker (like 0w40 Euro, or maybe a diesel-oriented oil).

A well-respected oil guru is helping me. I’m not supposed to discuss my results (I.e. non-disclosure) but let’s just say, most “household-brand” oils are not his favorites...for my situation... I live in Texas, not Canada, hence my concern with low viscosity. You can google him: Terry Dyson, or dysonanalysis.com. If you employ him, his advice to you might differ from his advice to me. He has some first-hand experience with Ford EcoBoost design & engineering.

Bottom-line: I am going to err on the expensive side of oils to keep my fussy EcoBoost clean as a whistle. Im talking beyond Mobil 1 AP, or Royal Purple, or Castrol Edge. I’m also going to pay more attention to the quality of gas I use. Cheap insurance, maybe.

EDIT: deleting some opinions

Terry never commented on a spec called “HTHS” (high temperature, high stress), but MY HUNCH it’s where so many common 5w30 oils fall flat. I shoot for an HTHS of 3.5; most USA 5w30 oils are around 2.9. Again, my OPINION, not his advice.

If you have a turbo, be cautious; this oil business is more confusing than it should be...partially because of well-meaning government regulations or industry reactions to those regulations (improved fuel economy, direct-injected motors, longer drain intervals, and turbo-charged 4-cyl and v6’s, instead of v8’s, etc). That said, I’m all for less pollution and fuel consumption (jealous of Mercedes fuel economy).

There endeth the sermon.
I live in West Texas (hot, dusty conditions, that changes rapidly to cold dusty conditions.) I drive throughout Texas, New Mexico, Oklahoma, and Colorado.
My 2016 Ecoboost has 216,000+ miles,and a lot of Idling time. The van also does a lot of city driving. First 50,000 ,I used Motorcraft 5w-30 as the manual says and Motorcraft filter. At 60,000 I switched to Motorcraft full synth. My Oil change interval is every 10,000 mls. I would say you are over thinking this.

My other 3 vans are Econoline with the same regime except they have oil changes at 5-7,000 mls, One of those vans is at 408,000 mls, original engine and Transmission.
 
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